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From: "barnett childress"
Date: Wed, 16 Sep 98 7:58:55 -0400
Subject: re: [D90] Hood release
>I removed the cable release and installed the military hood latches.
> I like em.
>Barnett
>
>What do they look like, and where do I get some?
Dan,
Same galvinized latches you see on some of the older Series LR's, military
LR's or Camel 110's. I got mine from Rovers North.
Barnett
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Date: Wed, 16 Sep 98 10:38:54 EDT
From: rdl@nomurany.com (Robert D. Leggiero)
Subject: Re: [D90] Hood release
I replaced my cable with a high quality bicycle cable and liner ment for a mountain bike. I solved the 90 degree bend at the end by putting a heavy spring around the end of the T-handle housing and cable a few inches past the housing. The spring forces it to keep a nice smooth bend. Never had a problem since.
> Is the standard mountain bike cable long enough to replace the D90 one?
> Chris "V"
I don't think so. The housing you can get on a roll so length there's no problem there. I made the mods over 3 years ago. I think I used a long cable I already had that was long enough to be used on a tandem. I think I just had to reshape the "button" on the cable end to work with the T-handle. I rember buying the housing (and some stainless steel ferrules for the ends) but not the cable.
Try a local bike shop for a long cable. If you can't find one, it would still be an improvement to just change the housing, add a spring at the bend, and keep the stock cable. The housing and the bend are realy the weak points. The stock cable probably doesnt stretch that much more than a good bike cable. Good housings are nice and rigid and have slippery liners that will let the cable glide nicely.
Rob
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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 13:53:40 EDT
From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Subject: Re: [D90] Camel Trophy Hood Decal
>Does anyone have an email address or phone # for Ernie Young?
>I've got a friend who wants the Camel Trophy black hood decal...
Steve
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From: Jamie Austin[SMTP:jamieaustin@fsbdial.co.uk]
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2000 2:24 PM
Subject: [D90] Spare wheel mounts
Here are the part #'s for the bonnet (hood) mounted spare wheel.
1x MUC 2443 plate
21x RA612183 pop rivet
1x MUC 6418 Reinforcment channel,RH
1x MUC 6419 Reinforcment channel,LH
4x MRC 4619 Buffer
4x WB108051L Plain washer
4x NY108041L Nyloc nut
1x MUC 2442 Clamping plate
3x SH105161L Screw (actually a small bolt)
3x NH105041L Nut
2x MRC4473 Bolt
2x WD112081L Washer
The clamping plate that holds the wheel down comes as two different types. There is one that just does steel wheels (But they have to have the LARGE hole through the centre where the drive hub would go on an axle) MUC 2440 Retainer. The other type holds down the alloy wheels and Range Rover cookie cutter style steel wheels (proper name is RoStyle).....ALR2380 Retainer,but for this one you will need an additional three lug nuts to hold the alloy to the retainer,and lo and behold,here is the number..... 90577473 Wheel nut (x3) the above plate can be used for either steel or alloy wheels,but on steel ones you will have 3 studs sticking up out of the wheel,no big deal i suppose.
Jamie Austin
'96 D110 Tdi
'92 D90 Tdi
'85 D90 V8i
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From: Geoff Jones[SMTP:geoffreyjones@worldnet.att.net]
Sent: Tuesday, September 12, 2000 4:02 PM
Subject: RE: Hood Mount Spare
Ron,
Just bought a kit from Rovers North to mount the spare. Be aware that there
are two kits...one for alloys and one for steel wheels. It is my understanding
that neither will work with the other.
Steel - STC 7633
Alloy - STC 7686
By the way, isn't there a trick way to remove the bonnet without unbolting the
hinges? I think I remember someone saying you can just pop out the
bushing...would help not having to re-align everything.
Good Luck...let me know what you decide to do.
Geoff Jones
'97 D-90
'95 RR Classic