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From: asfco[SMTP:asfco@banet.net]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 4:03 PM
Subject: [Fwd: Re: Rivet tools sources/ part numbers was...Progress]
Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> Aloha Steve:
> Am getting ready to replace the rear flat panels on my pickup bed. Have
[ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> one removed and will be working on the other. Would appreciate the name
> and number of the parts to set the rivets, a source for these parts
Peter;
I should have posted this info because I figured someone would need it
so here goes.
You will need an air hammer, I used the cheapest one I could find at
Northern Hydraulics cost was $ 9.99...make sure the gun you get will
accept a .401 shank and will let you dial down the pressure. (I would
buy a better gun next time simply because the pressure regulator control
on this one keeps backing out...
You will need a Rivet Set to go in the gun..mine was purchased from
US Tool Supply in Plymouth , Michigan 1-800-521-4800 these people deal
primarily with rivet setting tools ask for a catalog. The part number
you need is SM10-4356 $ 7.95 this fits the button head rivets used on
Land-Rovers perfectly. You will also need a bucking bar I tried using
several other things for this but YOU NEED THE BUCKING BAR. The one to
get is TP1112 cost $15.00
As for rivets I got them from Rovers North. The longer ones are better
the part # is 300789 they are .20 ea you could probably source them from
Mcmaster-Carr in NJ if you do, make sure you get a button head 3/16 X
3/8 in the softest aluminum they offer.
Procedure...set the gun on low...(especially for the sides where the
rivets touch the paint) use low hammer blows..insert the rivet set in
the gun hold it on the outside over the button head, holding the bucking
bar firmly against the back..a couple taps of the trigger and your rivet
is set.
If at all possible practice a few times on an old piece
I enjoyed doing this (a lot ) and the result was very professional.
Hope this helps
Rgds
Steve Bradke '68 lla 88
Zack Arbios [SMTP:Zaxcoinc@aol.com] added:
Excellent treatise.
I can only add that you'd be happier, if you set the bucking bar next to and
alongside the rear of the rivet and drive the rivet a few blows. This would
make certain it is fully in the hole, and that the sheets are in as close
contact as possible. Then move the bucking bar to the end of the rivet and
expand that bad boy.
Zack
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From: Clarke Williams[SMTP:clarkewilliams@halcyon.com]
Sent: Wednesday, August 23, 2000 9:50 PM
Subject: [D90] Rivets
>When I had the doors on my rig replaced under the rust warranty, the body
>shop attached the door cappings with some nasty little rivets (and they
>didn't even paint over them). they said they couldn't get the correct
>rivets. where are you guys getting them from?
You can get the rivets from Rovers North or just buy solid "Modified
Brazier Head" rivets. Get the soft aluminum ones, not the hard (hard ones
have a little dimple in the center). Let me know which ones you need
(which body locations) and I can get you part numbers for LR rivets. Try
Wicks Aircraft, Aircraft Spruce, and Avery Tools. All are on the net.
You will need a rivet "set" for an air hammer and a "bucking bar". You can
use a heavy piece of steel (smooth surface) or purchase a proper bar. A
proper air tool specifically for riveting is better (more control) but with
care an air hammer will work. It is not that hard to set solid rivets.
Newer Defenders use "pop" rivets. If you use pop rivets rather than solid
rivets the clamping force is somewhat lower but installation is simpler.
Use "closed end" rivets rather than common "nail head" pop rivets -- the
closed end rivets are sealed and are watertight. Use aluminum body with an
aluminum mandrel rivet -- I strongly recommend against using steel mandrel
rivets. They are very difficult to drill out and remove.
Also, on earlier Land Rovers, including Series, the solid rivets are NOT
painted. I've often wondered why Land Rover started painting them -- I
guess because they went to pop rivets.
Clarke
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Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2000 09:57:50 -0600
From: Nathan Hindman nahindma@wholepeople.com
Subject: RE: Threaded inserts
(when Art asked about a source for nut-serts - also called riv-nuts, and a tool to install them, Nathan replied:)
If I remember right, you live in Denver. If so, give these guys a call.
That's where I got all of my nutserts for my D90 and the install tool, too.
They're in old downtown Littleton, just a couple blocks east of The Melting
Pot.
Allen William W Co
5661 S. Nevada
Littleton, CO
(303) 794-6301
Hope this helps,
The usual non-affiliation disclaimer.
Nathan
94 AA Yellow D90 #1811
97 Discovery XD
And Tom farvin@gwis2.circ.gwu.eduadded:
Rather than get tied up with that tool, I found a setup at my hardware store
that is super-easy. It is essentially a 1/2" rubber grommet with brass
threads in the middle - costs about a dollar. Drill a 1/2" hole, push this
in, and turn a screw through the hole in the lens and into these threads -
expanding the rubber behind the body panel and securing the lens. I've had
lenses off and on several times - and this works great. Cheers.
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From: Jamie[SMTP:jamie.austin@austingroup.co.uk]
Sent: Thursday, December 07, 2000 2:39 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] rivnut gun?
If it's the rivnuts i'm thinking of (they kind of 'compress' around the
panel they're fitted into?) i just install them using a piece of threaded
bar (or a long bolt the same thread as the rivnut), 2 large washers, a nut,
and a piece if speel plate with a hole drilled through.
Make the steel plate easy to hold, say about 1 inch wide and about 6 inches
long (or anything like that), drill the hole near one end, and bend the
plate so that you can hold it without crushing your fingers against the
bodywork, an angle of about 30~45 degrees is about right.
1) drill the hole in the bodywork (make sure it's a nice 'snug' fit, almost
an interferience fit)
2) push in the rivnut
3) take the bolt(or threaded bar), put a nut on it,then one of the
washers,then the steel plate,then another washer.
4) screw the whole lot into the rivnut enough for the threaded bar to clear
the end of the rivnut threads, then wind down the nut until it's tight on
the washer/plate.
5) hold the plate 'handle' in one hand, and crank up the nut with a spanner
with the other. the rivnut
normally a bolt only lasts a few times before the thread becomes mangled, so
keep a supply of nuts and bolts handy!
Jamie