Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 13:35:26 -0700
From: Jeff Gauvin jeff.gauvin@lsil.com
Subject: Re: [D90] Warranty work on rust. Any advice?
At 10:09 AM 1/8/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Has anyone had any warranty rust work done on their D90?
>[...]
>I also have some bumper rust, I know this is common but is it covered? There
>is a lot of rust underneath, should I press the issue, or should I take
>care of it myself this summer with some elbow grease and Wurth rust guard?
I once inquired about getting some rust fixed (hasn't been done yet, but the rust warranty is 6 or 7 years, so there's still time), and was told that only *exterior* *body* rust is covered, ie. chassis is not covered. I was also told that *technically* the door frames are interior and as such are not covered, but even as he was saying this there was a D90 in the shop getting its doors replaced...
So where is the line between interior and exterior on a vehicle that was originally sold without a top?
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90
-----------------------------
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:44:39 -0700 (MST)
From: Lorri Paustian lorri@sound.net
Subject: Re: [D90] Warranty work on rust. Any advice?
Ryan,
We had rust on one of our 95 D90 SWs taken care of under the corrosion
warranty. When the service manager at the dealership talked to me about it,
he said while you could just see a bit of rust on the outside, the inside
was completely corroded. I'd sure have them take care of it. We went ahead
and had the new parts galvanized at our expense before they replaced them.
Hopefully that'll keep it from happening next time or at least put it off.
Good luck and hope this helps.
Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW
'93 D110
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From: Barb and Ash Smith[SMTP:barbara.ash@xtra.co.nz]
Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2000 8:51 PM
Subject: corroded stud
I wish to thank the kindly soul who posted this method of removing
snapped off studs a year or so back.
On the never-ending task of restoring the "Singularity", I snapped off a
stud at the rear of the head. [2L motor] It was as bad as it can get,
steel bolt through an aluminium plate into a cast iron water-jacket.
Corrosion was horrific. After all else failed, I recalled someone
saying that if the stud is heated till its hot right down into the
thread and candle-wax is applied, it draws it down the thread.
With the usual sceptical attitude, I tried it. To my undying amazement,
it worked! When I got it out, I could actually see where the wax had
been sucked nearly all the way down the thread. Whoever posted it,
thanks and keep posting more tit-bits like it!
Ash
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From: Todd Ondick[SMTP:greylildogs@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 28, 2000 8:46 PM
Subject: LRO: working birmabright
Found this site while poking around the other day... thought someone (self
presently not included) might see a bit of utility in being able to beat on
birmabright in some manner beyond frustration and futility. try this out:
http://www.tinmantech.com/html/repairing_aluminum_article.html
Cheers,
Todd Ondick
'65 IIA 88"
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From: Michael Azzariti[SMTP:efxguy@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: RRO: Re: Hood Mount Spare
Here's a tip for you folks. When drilling large hole in aluminum, lay
everything out very carefully, drill 1/8" pilot holes, then open them up to
your dimension with a Unibit. Never tears the metal, and you can even drill
3/4" holes with a cordless drill! It's always a good idea when using a Unibit
to put a strip of masking tape down, punch your center mark and draw a circle
to your required dimension with a compass, this way you will know if you have
wandered off to one side. Works great on drilling large holes in the frame too,
like when adding a winch bumper.
Michael
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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie[SMTP:ogilvi@hgea.org]
Sent: Saturday, March 18, 2000 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: Using wire brushes on galvanizing
Seem to read about a lot people using steel wire brushes/wheels. Just a
word of caution. The steel brushes leave minute amounts of potentially
rusty steel on any surface they are used on. Tried it on a piece of
stainless and had to constantly polish it for nearly a year before all the
steel bits rusted away. Assume the problem would come with using a steel
brush on galvanizing. Suggest you use steel wire brushes on parts that are
going to be painted. Try and match the wire of the brush with the metal
being attacked in other cases. The scotch brite wheels work really well at
removing paint, by the way.
Aloha
Peter
Kona Coffee Rover
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From: Bob & Sue Bernard[SMTP:bobnsueb@saber.net]
Sent: Friday, July 14, 2000 9:08 PM
Subject: Re: Plastic Media Blasting
Michael,
It's possible that etching primer could be enough, but I have no experience
with it.
All I know is the local auto paint stores both recommend this stuff:
Dupont makes it. and I've had mine for a number of years so the labeling
might say something different now.
Aluminum prefinish system step A #225s cleaner.
Aluminum prefinish system step B #226s conversion coating. It says it
stabilizes the aluminum, provides corrosion resistance, and optimum
adhesion of the paint.
Inquire at your local Dupont paint supplier for more info.
Cheers,
Bob B
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From: trevor_easton@dofasco.ca[SMTP:trevor_easton@dofasco.ca]
Sent: Monday, April 10, 2000 8:41 AM
Subject: Zinc Painting
Found this useful note at The Canadian Building Digest
The chief problem in painting zinc, especially highly spangled galvanize, is to prevent subsequent peeling of the coating. Weathering of galvanized steel for at least six months has long been recommended as one way of stopping this failure. To avoid the waiting period, numerous remedies have been proposed, but most are detrimental or, at best, ineffectual. While solutions containing copper sulphate (blue stone) have a visible effect by depositing copper, they do not improve adhesion. The most successful treatments are conversion coatings applied by dip or spray in a factory.
Further complications are introduced by other treatments often employed at the mill to eliminate storage stains ("white rust"). Some of these interfere with subsequent treatments, including the conversion processes. Where long durability is of prime importance, the galvanize supplier should be consulted for the best treatment and coating procedure for his product.
Many tests have been conducted to try to determine how best to paint galvanize in the field. Those carried out at DBR/NRC indicate that the choice of primer is greatly influenced by the type of topcoat. Wash primer was satisfactory with all topcoats tested and much superior to other primers under alkyd enamels. Zinc dust-zinc oxide primer also performs well on new untreated galvanize. This material is not the same as zinc rich primer. The latter is also suitable, but because it serves the same function as the galvanize, its additional use is uneconomical. Primers pigmented with calcium plumbate are used extensively in the United Kingdom on zinc but have not been very popular in North America. Topcoats to be applied over calcium plumbate must be carefully selected for compatibility or peeling from the primer may occur.
Because sprayed zinc is slightly porous, it tends to corrode faster thanother forms. Protective coatings are, therefore, mandatory. Wash primers, as on galvanize or zinc-rich, are suitable for priming sprayed zinc.
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From: RJSEsqAntq@aol.com[SMTP:RJSEsqAntq@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, September 18, 2000 6:51 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Painting Fiberglass Hardtops.
Hi Y'all,
The trick to painting any fiberglass is to get a good mechanical
key/bond between the coats. On a boat or a corvette this is achieved quite
simply by sanding the surface first. But the Rover top is a textured surface,
so sanding is out of the question. You must use an etching primer. No matter
what primers are used the most important thing of all is to clean the surface
thoroughly prior to any paint. (see cleaning recipe) It will also be
advisable to use epoxy paint. Chose one with good UV rating. Because of the
texture spray application should be the only option considered.
My only other advice? It's like baking a cake, it's what's under
the final layer that counts. So don't skimp on the prep.
Cleaner....
1/2 Gal Pure Turpentine
1/4 Gal Denatured alcohol......Meth spirit for the Brits
1 pint white distilled vinegar
1/2 pint Murphy's oil soap..... Tepol for the Brits
1/2 pint Brasso....yes Brasso.. to emulsify the whole thing
1 TBL spoon household ammonia
Method... Use 4/0 steel wool and rub hard.
Warning!!! This stuff is so flammable, it should be labeled as BOMB
IN A BOTTLE!! It is very unfriendly to you and the environment. But it cleans
anything.
Second Warning!! When on the shelf it looks like a frappacino from
yer friendly Starbucks. PLEASE keep it away from kids. It will kill.
Third warning!! Wear gloves, it will ruin a good manicure.
Kind Regards Sam Simpson
London City and Guilds Paint Technology.
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From: J. Nielsen[SMTP:cnielsen@u.washington.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, September 19, 2000 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] Painting Fiberglass Hardtops.
I have replied to this subject before so I just copied and pasted my
original remarks. I have been trying to round up some pictures and
since I don't have that D-90 anymore it is impossible to take new ones.
Anyway, here goes... I would highly recommend this do-it-yourself job!
I had a '95 ST before owning my '95 SW. I painted the fiberglass top that
was on the ST. It was coniston green so I painted it like the SW color
scheme with the white top. It was fairly easy and oly took a couple of
hours. I removed all the weather stripping that I could and taped around
the windows and logos then scotch-brited the hell out of it. I think this
is a critical step. The glossy grey finish must be removed to get to a
dull finish so paint can and will stick. Then I went to the local
aoutobody shop and had them mix the paint from the factory color
numbers. Believe it or not I painted it with a brush! The ripple finish
that is on the fiberglass allows you to do this. Put on a thick coat then
ONLY go over it once so you won't get brush strokes. You may need a second
coat especially for the white top but wait for it to completely dry. The
paint matched great and I would highly recommend it. Changed the look of
the whole truck.
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From: George Gamarci[SMTP:ggamarci@home.com]
Sent: Monday, May 15, 2000 7:55 PM
Subject: [D90] Re: AA Yellow Paint Code
AA Yellow
LR Code: 1827
Mfr. Code: AA/584/FUN
DuPont Code: F0942
George Gamarci
95 D90SW #117/500
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From: BST4X4[SMTP:BST4X4@earthlink.net]
Sent: Wednesday, September 20, 2000 9:40 AM
Subject: [D90] SandGlow Yellow paint codes
Some more info:
The paint is also known as LRC361, 361A and prolly a few others.
The touch up part# is STC1489T.
[Sandglow is LR's name for the yellow color of the Camel Trophy vehicles - ed.]
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From: Keith Blumfield[SMTP:blumx@comcen.com.au]
Sent: Wednesday, June 07, 2000 4:10 PM
Subject: Re: Paint codes
Try this Chris: http://www.comcen.com.au/~blumx/paintcodes.htm
(list of LR paint codes - ed.)
Keith Blumfield
Australian Range Rover Pages
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From: John Karlsson[SMTP:karlsson@edgenet.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 08, 2000 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: PAINTING MY ALUMINUIM FRIEND
Atlantic British sells a kit that includes everything you need to paint
your Land-Rover. I took the list of kit components to my local paint
supplier, and he said he couldn't meet their price and recommended I order
from AB. Even if you choose to buy elsewhere, you can use the AB kit as a
guide to what you will need.
John Karlsson
Hope Valley, RI