From: David Corcoran [mailto:CorcoranD@michigan.gov]
Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2002 11:18 AM
Subject: [rro] Base Idle revisited
Rovers North faxed me a Tech Tips article by Mike Searfoss titled:
"Eliminating Stalling-Air Gap and Base Idle Settings on the Land Rover EFI V8"
Make sure air gap in distributer is set at .010 and remove the black hose connected between the side
of the throttle housing and the rear of the plenum, ( clean out any carbon you
may see in the plenum chamber before you plug the port).plug both ports (the ones that were connected by the hose).
With ports plugged, start the engine and adjust the idle using the base idle screw on the throttle body. The base idle
should be 525+/- 25. Once done ,turn engine off, unplug ports and reinstall
hose. Assuming timing set at 6degrees TDC , should have smooth idle at rest
and clean running when coming to a stop.
From: childress, barnett[SMTP:childress_barnett@emc.com]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Engine Service Light
>So, my Engine Service light just came on at 107000 miles,
>presumably for the 105000 mile emissions service.........
>How do I turn the light off? (I hate red lights on the dash,
>they make me nervous.)
The check engine light will come on approx. every 50K miles for emissions check (0xygen sensor). If the truck is running fine I wouldn't worry about it. There is a brown module in the dash behind the instrument panel (at least that is where mine is 95 model). There is a small hole with a paper sticker over it. Stick a paper clip in the hole and short out the contacts. The light will go out.
Barnett
Gary & Sheri Bendorf bendorf@iex.net add:
My brown module is under the passenger seat, (95 Discovery 5spd)
o-well go figure no biggie. Find it, short it out and the
light will go away. I've had a hole in my sticker
for years. A couple of months ago it passed Colorado
emissions with no problems at all.
------------
Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 22:33:33 -0500
From: Brian Neily briann@ici.net
Subject: [D90] Dignostic Display Discovered
After being told by a few people I should be able to view the engine fault codes on my 94 D90 I have finally discovered how. Hidden inside a black box marked Range Rover Diagnostic Display is the display. Mind you this box has no view window. I clipped the platic rivits holding the box together and inside is a two digit led display. I have since cut a hole through the side box so I can no view the engine fault codes when they come up.
Now that I know what the codes are where is that engine fault code list?
Later
Brian 94 D90
----------
From: Lenaghan_Mike@emc.com[SMTP:Lenaghan_Mike@emc.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2000 3:39 PM
Subject: Christmas Tree dashboard
I recently had to reset both of these (Check Eng. and Service Eng.) lights on my 94 RR.
The service engine light is simply reset by inserting a suitable prod into
the hole. Its posiible that you need something more substantial than a paper
clip. It didn't work for me the first time so I resorted to using a small
philips screw driver that did the trick.
The Check Engine light can be reset (assuming you have fixed the problem
that caused it to illuminate in the first place) by disconnecting the lead
from the display unit while the ignition is switched on. There is a 5 pin
(or so) connector in the lead from the display. Then switch the ignition off
and wait for the main relay to drop out. Recoonect the lead and evrytjing
should be fine. Of course this didn't work for me either so what I did was
disconnect the battery for about 30 seconds while the lead was disconnected
and that fixed it.
Good Luck
Mike
----------
From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 14, 2000 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Check engine light reset?
The 97 D-90 ECU (OBD II) has a non-volatile memory. You cannot reset it by
disconnecting power. There is no reset button. You will have to have the
codes pulled and the light reset by the dealer. You are probably correct in
thinking that something got wet. Alternatively, If you drive the car long
enough, the light will probably go out on its own after it goes through
enough drive cycles without a malfunction.
Rob Dassler
----------
From: Scott Monico[SMTP:smonico@monico.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2000 1:18 PM
Subject: [D90] service light reset on a 97 -long but worth reading if you have a 97
Today I learned how to reset the service reminder light on the 97 d90. It
is not difficult, but it is a huge PITA! It also does not require hooking
it up to the testbook computer to do it.
Let me start at the beginning. I was expecting the service reminder light
to come on around 52500 miles since that is when people on this list were
saying it would come on and that is when my dealer told me to expect. But
it never came on. So at around 78000 miles I had my manual out for it and
decided to see what it said. The manual for the truck says the service
light would come on around 82500 miles. So I was waiting for it, and at
about 82100 it did come on. From what was posted on the list I was under
the impression that to reset that light on the 97 it had to be done with the
testbook computer. So I took it to my dealer for the 82500 scheduled
service which includes resetting the light. They told me it would be about
an hour so I waited for it. After they did all the other service stuff they
got ready to do reset the light. The hour had almost passed so I went to
check on it and they were having trouble w/ resetting the light because they
could not access the reset box. I questioned them about doing it thru the
computer and they said only the 97 4.0 & 4.6 Range Rovers were done that
way, the 90s and discoverys still had the reset box.
So, according to the electrical library book the reset box was located in
the center console behind the fuse panel. After looking at it closely we
decided the only way to do it was remove the center console. The only
problem w/ this is that I have the amp for the subwoofer, electronic
crossover, and control units for the heated seats all mounted in the center
console under the storage tray. The tech and I then spent the next 1.5
hours dismantling the console and stuff I mounted in it. We also had to
remove the AC shroud as it was blocking the front clips for the console.
Once we got it out, sure enough the light brown box was there behind the
fuse panel. We reset it and the light is out. We put the console back in
but now I will be spending the weekend putting the stuff I had mounted in it
back.
Summary of how to do it yourself:
-expect the service engine light to come on at 82500 miles.
-resetting the service reminder light on a 97 d90 can and should be done on
your own.
-remove the center console and AC shroud (3 screws behind 3 of the 4 vents
(remove to access) and 1 screw down low underneath on the drivers side).
The console has 3 bolts inside the back bottom and 2 push in plastic
retainers in the front, on on each side on the outside)
-located the light brown plastic box behind the fuse/relay panel on the left
side (second box from the left. You may need to remove the fuse/relay panel
bracket to get at the brown box.
-turn the ignition on, truck does not need to be running but dash lights
need to light up
-below the LR sticker there are 2 holes, choose the left most hole, stick a
nail or straight 3" length of a metal coat hanger thru the hole until it
stops. If the service light doesn't go out then try again. If it still
doesn't go out then you need to remove the box (pops up and out) disconnect
the cable, open up the box and clean the metal contacts. The contacts are
supposed to be separated. If they are dirty they wont reset properly.
Reconnect the box while open and fiddle w/ the contacts until the light goes
out. Reassemble box and reconnect
-once light is off reassemble console.
-be happy that you just saved a $150.
The alternative is to just remove the light bulb from the service engine
indicator. They told me after we started tearing everything apart that the
service engine indicator is only hooked up to the timer in the brown box so
you aren't going to miss anything by not having the indicator working.
I hope this helps someone save some time and money.
Scott Monico
97d90st
----------
From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 10:43 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Check engine light reset?
Tyler asks:
>.........Now one more question- is the dealer the only place that can accurately diagnose 97
>D-90. Or can anyone gain access to the codes? It seems kinda crappy that
>they seem to have such a monopoly on the market. Do I have any hope of
>getting the codes read anywhere else, ie my personal mechanic? I would like
>to know seeing as though 94-95 D-90's have codes that are well known and can
>be deciphered by the average joe.
Anyone with a generic OBDII scan tool can read generic codes from any late
model car including your Defender. All manufacturers are required to provide
basic information in a universal format so that the aftermarket shops can
fix the cars. However, there are also proprietary codes that give more
specific information that only a dealer will be able to decipher. Depending
on the complexity of a problem, dealer assistance may be the way to go as
they will have the most current and complete information.
Rob Dassler
---------------
From: Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, December 20, 1999 11:33 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] '95, 3.9 starting problems
At 12:04 PM 12/21/1999 Tuesday, you wrote:
>"95 RR Classic, 58000Miles, Engine ran perfectly yesterday...no sign of
>impending problem. After a cosy night in the garage it refuses to start
>today. Cranks for 10 seconds or so, catches like it wants to start and then
>just continues to crank.
>
>I checked for spark...it seems strong, but replaced plugs and wires since they
>are due soon anyway. Checked for fuel pressure at fuel filter inlet...plenty
>of pressure...changed the fuel filter while I was there. Fuel pressure
appears
>good at the fuel rail as well.
Did you check for a fault code in your OBDC? Dunno where it is in the Rangie, but you should be able to see a number through the semi-opaque casing. Then match up the fault code with:
http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ/Defender/FAQ.Engines.Fault.Codes.htmlBTW: you may have more than one fault code: follow the instructions for resetting the display, to see the next code.... This might help. Also, when they talk about Lambda sensors, these are the O2 sensors.....
Doug Aitken
'95 Red Defender 90 5-speed
_______________
Note: the following was posted to the D-90 list after being copied from the Ottowa Valley Land Rovers FAQ pages. Identical information can be found at that site by clicking on the link in the message above.
Check Engine Codes - 1994-1995
General:
The fault codes are given in order of priority. If more than fault exists, you have to clear the display before the next fault code can be displayed.
Fault code 02 means that the ECU has just been reconnected. Switch on the
ignition to clear the display.
Clearing the display:
1. Switch ignition on.
2. Disconnect serial link mating plug, wait 5 seconds, then reconnect.
3. Switch ignition off, wait for main relay to drop out.
4. Switch ignition on. The display should now be reset. If there are other faults, the next one will be displayed. Otherwise the display will be black
5. If there is more than one fault repeat steps 1 to 4, to clear each fault until the display is blank.
No LED's are on:
Good news; nothing is wrong. Either that or Mr. Lucas has struck and either the LEDs are burned out or the display isn't getting any power.
Code 29 - ECU memory check
If detected all other faults are unreliable and must be ignored.
Procedure:
1. Leave battery connected
2. Switch ignition off
3. Wait for approximately 5 seconds
4. Disconnect ECU plug.
5. Reconnect ECU plug
6. Switch ignition on and check display unit.
If fault code 29 is detected again, swap out the ECU for another one and retest.
Code 44 - Lambda sensor A - left bank
Code 45 - Lambda sensor B - right bank
If one of these fault codes is displayed check the wiring to that particular lambda sensor. If both codes are displayed, the voltage supply to the heater coils of the sensors must be checked. Refer to test 26, continuity test procedure.
Code 25 - Ignition misfire
This code indicates that an ignition system misfire has been detected.
Codes 40 and 50 indicate on which bank the misfire has occurred.
Code 40 - Misfire bank A - left bank
Code 50 - Misfire bank B - right bank
If both codes are displayed, check the following components common to both banks:
Distributor cap
Rotor arm
Coil
Electrical connections
Pick-up (air gap)
Amplifier
Injectors (if code 34 or 36 is displayed)
If either fault code 40 or 50 is displayed check components applicable to the particular bank that the misfire has occurred on.
Spark plugs
HT leads
Distributor cap
Injectors - if code 34 bank A or 36 bank B displayed
Code 12 - Airflow meter
Refer to test 19, continuity test procedure.
Code 21 - fuel tune select
Identifies that the tune select resistor is open circuit- refer to tune select resistor test.
Code 34 - Injector bank A
The display will indicate if the injector(s) are causing the engine to run rich or lean.
If the bank is running rich, check for - faulty injector wiring and connectors, stuck open injectors.
If the bank is running lean, check for - faulty injector wiring and connectors, blocked injectors.
Code 36 - Injector bank B
As code 34, except relevant to bank A injectors.
Code 14 - Coolant thermistor
Refer to test 14, continuity test procedure.
Code 17 - Throttle potentiometer
Refer to test 17, continuity test procedure.
Code 18 - Throttle potentiometer input high/airflow meter low
Refer to tests 17, 18, and 19 of the continuity test procedure.
Code 19 - Throttle potentiometer input low/airflow meter high
Refer to tests 17, 18, and 19 of the continuity test procedure.
Code 88 - Purge valve leak
Refer to test 9 and 10 of the continuity test procedure.
Code 28 - Air leak
Check for air leaks in the following areas:
Hose, air flow meter to plenum
Breather system hoses to plenum
Brake servo hose
Vacuum reservoir hose (fresh air solenoid)
Distributor vacuum advance
Hose, purge valve to plenum
Injector seals
Joint - bypass air valve to plenum plenum chamber to ram housing ram housing
to inlet manifold inlet manifold to cylinder head bypass air valve hose
Code 23 - Fuel supply
Check fuel system pressure, test 20 of continuity test procedure.
Code 48 - Stepper motor
Check base idle speed- see setting procedure.
Refer to tests 15 and 16 of continuity test procedure.
Check road speed sensor- refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.
Code 68 - Road speed sensor
Refer to test 25 of continuity test procedure.
Code 69 Gearswitch
Refer to test 24 of continuity test procedure.
Code 58 Group faults 23/28
This indicates that a fault has been registered that is caused by the fuel
supply or an air leak but the exact fault cannot
be identified.
Check all items outlined under codes 23 and 28.
Code 59 Fuel thermistor (most likely an error)
Code 15 Fuel Thermister
Refer to test 13 of the continuity test procedure.
OBD error code #3 means "memory interruption" in the computer. It can be caused by water (if anyone remembers the VT trip) or an electrical surge from the "thingie" that sends electrical current to the distributor.
-Rick
----------
From: George Gamarci[SMTP:ggamarci@home.com]
Sent: Saturday, March 25, 2000 7:51 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] Workshop Manual/Parts List
LR Defender Workshop Manual 1993-1995 (Covers 90 and 110)
LDAWMEN93US
I got one from Rovers North.
Defender 90 and 110 LR Parts Manual V8i NAS
Sorry, can't seem to find the part number.
I got one from Atlantic British.
Hope this helps,
George Gamarci
95 D90 SW #117/500
Alan Dobbs[SMTP:gulfcmt@flash.net] added:
Here is the service and part catalogue P/N on the ones I have.
Repair manual LRL 0088NAS
Electrical Library (picture description on connector locations) LRL 0105
Parts list (minus the binder) RTC9962FN
I also have a Electrial diagram on the 97 D90 but I can't find the P/N
Looking at the British Pacific catalog they list all the manuals and parts
catalog for sale. There # is 1-800-554-4133
(additonal content snipped - ed.)
----------
From: Craig Reece[SMTP:craigreece@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, July 28, 2000 11:39 AM
Subject: [D90] P/N Elec.Diagrams (was Part Numbers
I have the laminated 11-3/4" x 16-5/8" electrical diagrams (only avail. for the
'97s, I think) and it LRL 0104.
The Electrical Library - same size as the Owner's Manual - is LRL 0105. I got a
big (thick) 3-ring binder from my local office supply house and put both the
Owner's Manual and the Electrical Library in it - it's made by Wilson-Jones,
model # 345-42.
And the Part's Manual, all 871 pages of it, for 90/110, is P/N 9298, from
Atlantic British for $49.95, in a 3-ring binder. Don't know how I lived without
it.
Craig Reece
----------------
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 10:10:34 -0400
From: "Perrone T. Ford" ford_p@nettally.com
Subject: [Xpost] Rover v-8 web site
Given all the talk about Rover V-8's lately, I thought I would pass along
this info:
http://www.rover-v8.co.uk/index1.htm
Seems to have some interesting info...
-Perrone Ford
----------
From: Chris "V"[SMTP:t.velardi@snet.net]
Sent: Friday, December 08, 2000 2:50 PM
Subject: RE: [D90] diagnostic module
> Anybody know of a way to test this thing to see if it is working?
I was always able to create a reversible fault by putting my hand over the
intake trumpet (cutting off the air to the engine) after running a while it
will correct itself so you don't have to pay a garage to clear it.
Chris "V"
--------------
Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 20:59:27 -0700
From: "Alan Dobbs" gulfcmt@flash.net
Subject: RE: oil pressure
>Does anybody out there have an oil guage installed on the D90 already? I
>need to know the pressure at idle and 2400rpm.
My mechanical VDO shows about 10PSI at idle and on a good cold day max
around 40PSI
----------
From: Jeremy Bartlett[SMTP:bartlett@slip.net]
Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2000 10:21 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Anybody know about the Rough Road sensor?
Alan Dobbs wrote:
> The function is just to let the ECU that you are in a off-road condition
> I.e. one wheel spinning. This prevents a check engine light from
> illuminating from a small misfire or a minor hick-up type condition
Close. It lets the ECU know that wheel speed varies so that it doesn't pickup
that variation
through the crank sensor and interpret it as a misfire and hence illuminate the
MIL. Off road
speed variations are sufficient to vary the crank rotational speed. Since the
primary monitoring for
a misfire is done at the flywheel with the crank sensor alternate causes of
speed variation need to be monitored.
Jeremy
----------
From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 27, 2000 9:40 PM
Subject: [D90] tps question
Ben
A couple of things to consider. 1) if there is an air leak after the
throttle plate, the ecu will not be able to control the idle speed. check
both rubber breather hoses that run into the valve covers for splits or
softening. Also check the intake bolts--they will work loose, especially in
the back, and can cause unmetered air to get into the engine. 2) remove the
Idle air control valve and clean it and all of the passages very well with
carb cleaner. A blocked passage will cause all kinds of wierd running
problems. 3) you state that the ohm reading on the tps that you replaced was
4000 ohms. You need to check it through its full range to see that there are
no dead spots or dirty spots causing erratic readings. Note: if you have an
autoranging dvom, do not confuse a range change for a dead spot! The tps
actually has very little input at idle, so I would not replace it
immediately for an idling problem. Go back and recheck for air leaks and
clean the passages before replacing any more parts. Also check that the
throttle is not hanging up. The thropttle plate can get off center or the
throttle stop bent and hang the throttle blade open a little. At idle it
should be fully closed and not go over center. Lastly, after replacing any
of these parts, it would be best to reset the ecm adaptions and the base
idle speed. As far as I know, this will require a trip to the dealer as it
requires hooking to Testbook. The base idle setting is not a speed
adjustment as such but a stepper position adjustment.
The alternator provides an a/c signal to the tach on the brown/yellow wire.
All critical rpm functions run off of the crank sensor. The reason that a
signal from the alternator is used rather than a signal from the ignition
system is that the same system will work on both gas and diesel engines for
parts commonality. As far as dip switches--I do not know.
Hope this helps
Rob Dassler
----------
From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 10:24 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] slow back to idle
If I understand you post correctly, when you let off of the gas, the engine
is slow to return to idle and the idle speed is 1200-1500rpm.
I would certainly inspect the throttle cable and linkage. Make sure the
throttle cable is adjusted properly and that the throttle closes completely
(to the stop). If all is ok mechanically, then I would look for an air leak.
An unmetered air leak will cause a high idle and possibly an idle surge.
Check the vacuum hose that goes from the IACV housing to the fuel pressure
regulator. Check the pcv hoses and tee piece--all of these have manifold
vacuum and a split or crack will be a problem. Do the brakes work ok? A
ruptured power brake booster diaphragm could cause a vacuum leak. A stuck
open canister purge valve or an inoperative IACV could too, but both would
set a check engine light. Check the IACV housing and air bypass hose as well
as the intake pipe from the MAF sensor the plenum. If all looks
satisfactory, check the intake bolts. Loose intake manifolds are not
uncommon and will cause air and coolant leaks. If the intake is loose, the
gasket will need to be replaced. Make sure to get the complete set of new
intake gasket, end seals, end clamps, and bolts. Also, if you do this
yourself, note that there is a special torque sequence to follow for
reinstalling the manifold. If it is not torqued properly, it will leak
again.
Good luck
Rob
----------
From: dirk[SMTP:dirk@rust.net]
Sent: Tuesday, October 10, 2000 4:06 PM
Subject: [D90] Re: Fault Codes
I drowned my 90 the other weekend in Kentucky. We opened up the computer
after we pulled the 90 out of the hole and water ran out. After getting it
going again it got fault codes 3 and 20. I called a dealership in
Arizona - the only one still open that I had the number for - and he told
me that these were internal ECU faults or something - ground?.... I can't
remember now - anyway he said these shouldn't be a problem and to let the
rover dry out and you should be good to go... it didn't work that way - it
kept dying and running rough. Anyway here's what I did that did get it to
run right.
1) used contact cleaner (radio shack) on the ECU and the plug into the ECU
box.
2) replace the relay to the ECU. Amazingly these can work intermittently -
enough mud in the contact and the 12 volts isn't enough to hold a good
contact - likewise for the current flow. I thought these things either
worked or not, but fill it with muddy water and let it draw thirty+ amps
long enough and you'll be amazed. Also make sure they are sitting to drain
water out of the relay.
Good luck.
Do you have the manual? It has a pretty good fuel system and ignition
system series of tests to do. These helped me to a point - they had no test
for the ECU relay - but I figured it out as the one relay stayed cold while
the other cooked.
If you want I can fax you a copy of the page or two with the tests.
Dirk Tischer
----------
From: Braman Wing[SMTP:braman@braymo.net]
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2000 10:37 AM
Subject: RE: Head case
It is possible to calculate the pressure and temperature at the end of an ideal
compression stroke(no heat added or lost) with the following relation: T2/T1=(V1/V2)^(g-1),
where T2 is the temperature at the end of the compression stroke, T1 is the
temp at the beginning(in degrees Kelvin), and V1/V2 is the compression ratio.
g is a constant which generally runs about 1.4 for a fuel/air mixture. If we
start at atmospheric pressure(14.7psi) and 20degC (293degK) with an 8-1 compression
ratio, we get the following: T2=293*(8)^.4=673K, or about 400C. Plug this into
the old P1V1/T1=P2V2/T2 equation and you get a final pressure of about 270psi.
The reason that this is so much higher than the measured pressures is that the
volumetric efficiency is not very good at cranking speed, in other words, you
lose a lot of your air back out the intake valve before the valve closes and
compression starts. If you were to run the engine at about 2000rpm and do a
compression test, the pressure would be a lot closer to 270psi, since the engine
hits it's best volumetric efficiency around there. You would never quite get
to that pressure since some heat is lost through the cylinder wall and some
air is lost to leakage, but you would be close.
This explains why a high performance engine I have which has 10-1 compression
gives a lower reading on the gauge than my LR engine which has 8.5-1. The cams
on the other engine are designed for max efficiency at about 5000rpm, so the
efficiency at cranking speed is terrible. The LR engine is much closer to its
peak efficiency at cranking speed. So you really can't tell anything about an
engine's compression ratio with a compression test unless you know something
about the cam profile.
Hopre this helps,
Braman
----------
From: Jamie Austin[SMTP:jamie.austin@austingroup.co.uk]
Sent: Sunday, June 25, 2000 8:16 AM
Subject: Fw: [D90] fuel delivery problem???
>Dear List.
>I have a 3.9 liter aluminum block typical v8 rover motor. It is out of a 92
>Range Rover. On my 3.9, I am having a fuel delivery problem that I have
>limited to electronical. I have sprayed starting fluid in the air intake and it
>starts right up. I have turned on the key and I can go to the fuel tank and hear
>the pump working. It is functioning normally. My fuel filter is 500 miles
>or so old and not clogged. I have plenty of fuel pressure in the lines. My
>spark plugs are working find. I am getting spark to the plugs, distributor
>and all other related components. My ignition coil is good. My ignition is
>fine. I have checked all fuses. I have put dielectric grease on every
>applicable component in my engine. I have toggled and untoggled the fuel
>cut off inertia switch under the drive seat. I have kicked the tires and
>used all of the four and possible longer words and nothing seems to help.
>Any suggestions for the home mechanic without any diagnostic machines.
>Adam Way
I've got the 3.9efi in my D90 out of a Range Rover, so i'd presume it is the same engine.
One thing that i'd check is the temparature sensor on the front end of the block, right near to the inlet manifold (Open th bonnet and look in the middle of the engine,towards the front, about6~8 inches back from the cooling fan) You say that the engine starts if you spray the ether mix into the air intake? if you let the engine get warm, then does it start OK then???
the temparature sensor (be careful, there are two of them. one has a simple spade connection that runs the guage on the dash, the other one had two wires on a moulded plastic plug, this is the one you want.wire colours Green with blue trace, and red with black trace)
they go back to the main plug on ECU to pins 7 and 25.
If this sensor is shot, then the engine ECu may think that the engine is up to running temp, and not bother to give a rich mixture (Like pulling the choke out on a carb engine). To test it, leave the ignition OFF and insert a test meter into pins 7 and 25 (Or directly onto the sensor)
Readings should be:
Cooland temp Ohm meter reading
------------------ ---------------------
C F OHMS
-10 14 9100-9300
0 32 5700-5900
20 68 2400-2600
40 104 1100-1300
60 140 500-700
80 176 300-400
100 212 150-200
Obviously you won't be able to test the vehicle coolant at this temp as the engine wont run to get it hot, but you could remove the sensor and stick it in some hot water with a thermometer. or as a quickie, remove the plug from the sensor, and stick a high resistance resistor (9100-9300) across the pins, this will make the ECU think that it's bloody cold out, and give the engine a rich mixture to start it with.
If you have a fuel pressure tester, the fuel pressure IMMEDIATELY after the in line filter should be 34-37psi (or 2.4-2.6 kgf/cm2 in funny-money) you could try removing the RETURN pipe at the tank, with the ignition on, and see if fuel flows out (use a container!) this will determine if the filter is really blocked.
there is also a fuel temp sensor screwed into the fuel delivary rail, near to the back of the engine, test it in the same manner as the water sensor, the same readings apply for both of them.
all the inertia switch under the seat does, is kill the supply to the injection pump.
Also, is the air filter blocked? that would stop ANY engine from starting, and maybe the extra flammable spray that you're putting in is enough to overcome the blockage??
just a few thoughts for you to spend on this sunday afternoon! i'm going back to building the D90!
enjoy.
Jamie
'96 Tdi D110
'92 V8i D90
'85 Tdi D90 (Slowly taking shape)
----------------
Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 18:33:53 +0100
From: "Matthew Reeve" matt@rangie.com
Subject: Re: 14CUX efi test sheets
> Would whoever eventually posts Jamie's EFI notes to the web please let me
> know so I can put a link in the FAQ?
> -Dave G.
I've published them on rangie.com, they're up there as two versions, there
is the download version which is a zip file containing the images, about
2.19Mb. There is also another page with the images visible online, although
this is slow to load.
The link to the download version is
http://www.rangie.com/rrkb/nf_articles/213.htm
The link to the online version is
http://www.rangie.com/rrkb/nf_articles/212.htm
Sorry it's taken a few days to get them up there, work got in the way
unfortunately.
----------
From: Michael Nix[SMTP:mikenix@flash.net]
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 1998 3:35 PM
Subject: O2 Sensor replacement
Hello all,
A short while ago I wrote to the CSO group about replacing
the four-wire oxygen sensors on my wife's 1996 Range-Rover
with Nissan parts. On the advice of Frank Nation, instead
of going to the dealer to get the check-engine light reset,
I went to Auto Zone and bought an Actron OBDII diagnostic
tester. The unit (CP9035F) was $150 and did the job.
The codes have to read and rest with the engine running,
which is contrary to what the manual says. Also, it took
multiple trys to read the codes, and even more tries to
reset the check-engine light.
All I have left to do now is find a source for the meanings
of the manufacturer specific codes (P1178 & P1196) that I
read out. Does anybody have an idea where these are available?
Actron's web-site is www.actron.com
Sincerely,
Michael Nix
Buda, Texas
1996 Range Rover
----------
From: GerberBaby@aol.com[SMTP:GerberBaby@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, April 17, 2000 4:34 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] OBD-II diagnostic software
Has anyone tried the Car Code scan tool? I purchased one (it's just a cable
that connects your laptop's serial port to the Land Rover diagnostic socket),
and downloaded the "browser" software. However, I've yet to get the setup to
work, and am curious if anyone else has? I get nothing but a "no response"
error message from the laptop (the same message given if the cable isn't even
connected to the diag. socket).
I'm wondering: is there any special jumper or switch somewhere, which needs
to be activated before connection to the diagnostic socket?
FYI, for anyone interested in OBD-II diagnostic work, the D90's diagnostic
connector is wired as follows:
Pin 4: ground
Pin 5: ground
Pin 7: Rough Road Detection ECU (pin ?) & Engine Control Module (pin 23)
Pin 8: Engine Immobilization ECU/Serial Data Output (pin 17)
Pin 15: Rough Road Detection ECU (pin 13) & Engine Management Relay Module (pin 20)
Pin 16: +12V when ignition on
I've been corresponding with Alex Peper, the software's author, who points
out that diagnostic pin 15 is rarely used; his cable is not wired for it.
Does anyone know if this is an essential connection?
Thanks, in advance,
Trevor Tarr
'97 D-90
----------
From: Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 11:48 AM
Subject: [D90] OBD2 reader
This looks like a toy for some of you garage gurus with OBD2 vehicles!:
http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=km9615.htm&cart_id=5517272_1706
Doug A
--------
From: Shannon Holland [mailto:holland@loser.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 27, 2002 2:22 PM
Subject: inductive voltage spikes
So I've heard of these, but never really knew what was going on. I've been more
interested of late as the 110 occasionally goes into a brief period of lurching
(sharp loss and regain of power over several seconds).
I had a theory that this happened when my electric radiator fan turned on.
Trying to test this, I installed two ammeters: one on the battery ground
(digital ammeter with a 500 amp shunt) and another on the fan ground (analog
meter with 100 amp shunt).
The findings: yes it's related to the fan, but it happens when the fan turns
off, not on!
So, inductive spikes seem to be an interesting thing to look for (I have two
sources: the fan relay and the fan motor itself). Googling around trying to
learn more, I found this page which has a pretty helpful discussion:
http://www.4qdtec.com/catch.html
Has anyone played with installing catching diodes on their relays/motors? I
would hope it would be something that good relays would have built in - does
anyone know if this might be true?
Thanks!
Shannon
--------
From: Shannon Holland [mailto:holland@loser.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2002 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: inductive voltage spikes
On Thursday, March 28, 2002, at 08:35 AM, Gomes, David wrote:
"For us electrically impaired types... What exactly were you seeing on your
meters, and how did the readings or their timing relate to engine performance?"
I have two meters installed: a digital meter with 500 amp shunt connected to the
ground line of the battery. This can show +ve and -ve current (so I can tell
whether current is flowing into or out of the battery - 200 amps for a cold
start!). The second meter is on the ground line of the accessories up on the
front (lights, horn, and the dreaded
electric fan).
Some background: I had Philippe put in an electric fan around October of last
year. Right after this happened, I noticed that I'd frequently have a very sharp
power loss (actually it was typically a series of power loss/gains lasting
several seconds). Philippe and I talked about it and it seemed the addition of
the fan was likely the cause. However, it didn't seem that the 18 amps or so
that the fan draws (or considerably more on startup) should cause this (given it
often happened in daytime when alternator load should be low and I had just
recently replaced the battery).
Thinking that the alternator might be going, he had me turn on every electrical
item in the truck (lights, radios, ac, etc) - the problem got really really bad
(could hardly make forward progress).
Given I had all sorts of accessories (including winch) and wanted to add a
second battery, I put in one of the Premier Power Welder 160 amp alternators
(minus welder though).
The problem seemed to be fixed, but would happen every now and then. Typically
right after I had done a lot of city driving and was accelerating on the
freeway. Given the age of the truck, I went ahead and replaced some other
possible culprits: distributor cap and leads, ignition module and fuel pump (all
were looking nasty anyway!). Problem still occurred.
This brought me back to the fan, so I was curious to know what exactly was going
on - hence meter frenzy (actually this is nothing compared to the future meter
frenzy I'm working on, but that will be someday in the near future).
Here's what I see: the battery seems to recover relatively quickly from a cold
start. Initial charge levels are around 20 amps. After 20-25 minutes of driving,
it goes down to around 2amps, where it seems to stay (although I haven't driven
longer than an hour since installing all of this). The fan draws up to 40 amps
on startup (although this may not be
terribly accurate since it's an analog meter) and around 18 when running.
When the fan turns off, I typically see a large jump in current going to the
battery - it goes from the 2amp charge to around 15, then drops back to 2 after
a couple of seconds. This makes me wonder how effective the regulator is - I
would expect it to react the the drop in load more quickly (it also seems to
over react when new loads are added - current
goes up, then back down).
Since installing everything a couple of weeks ago, I've managed to catch the
power drop twice while looking at the meters (problem with meters with no
history!). Both times the power drop occurred when the fan turned off (this
power drop/lurching still lasts for several seconds).
I see two possible causes at this point:
1. If the regulator is slow to react to the drop in load, then I would think I
might be getting a voltage spike given it's still putting out the same amount of
power for a smaller current (I don't know much about alternators - is this
true?). I would expect this would be somewhat buffered by the battery (the extra
current I see flowing into the
battery).
2. Our good friend, the inductive voltage spike. For this one, there are two
sources: the coil in the fan relay and the fan motor itself.
A friend has a portable oscilloscope - we're going to hook that up and see if we
can catch it (I'd like to verify this is happening before I make steps to fix
it). I have a digital multimeter that can record high/low voltages, but I don't
know that it will catch something as fast as these spikes.
Shannon