------------------------------
Date: Mon, 05 Apr 1999 17:10:23 -0500
From: Bill Ritchie billnsandi@kingwoodcable.com
Subject: [D90] Gas Cap Replacement
Since I lost my gascap at a gas station a couple of days ago, I went in search of a new one at the local auto parts store. Their computer didn't even list Land Rovers so on a whim we tried the cap for a '97 Land Cruiser - - and walla, it worked
Part # - Stant 10825 Fuel Cap
NOTE: (ed)
>Locking Gas Cap that works: Stant BG 791 (11591) (From David Rosenbaum)
>NAPA equivalent part: NAPA #7032103 cheaper than Stant Cap. (John Purnell
>experience)
Bill Ritchie
'97 AA Yellow D90 #2078 (DRS, 35's, Detroit, TT, 4.1's)
------------------
From: Jamie Austin[SMTP:jamieaustin@fsbdial.co.uk]
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 11:09 AM
Subject: [D90] Part numbers
As promised,here are the part numbers for the fuel
filler's :
NTC2655 the extension tube for jerrycans
the fuel filler fitted to European defenders,capable of accepting the
extended filler are :
NTC 2676 filler fuel (leaded and diesel)
NTC 2690 " " (unleaded,don't know the difference....colour??
maybe size?,best to go for the diesel one,I DEFINITELY know that works)
ESR1650 Seal
NTC 2757 filler cap (non locked,vented)
RTC 4740 filler cap (Locking,vented)
RTC 4741 filler cap (locking,non vented.....probably this one you want to
use for efi engines with pressure sense)
The pipe that goes from the filler tube to the tank is NTC 2338,but I don't know if it will fit the rear tanks.you may be able to use the existing pipe??
have fun!!
Jamie Austin
'96 D110 Tdi
'92 D90 Tdi
'85 D90 V8i
----------
From: Craig Reece[SMTP:craigreece@earthlink.net]
Sent: Saturday, July 29, 2000 3:09 AM
Subject: [D90] Non-NAS Fuel Filler Tube
Just installed the non-NAS diesel fuel filler tube (without the
restrictor) to permit faster re-fueling, esp. with NATO cans. Got it
from Rovers North - 802-879-0032, but probably any dealer could order it
- P/N is WLH100570, for 90/110, $30.00. The unleaded-type NATO flex
spout was more than the filler tube - $35.75, also from RN, P/N RTC7085.
The filler tube install is very easy - the only thing holding it in
place are the two hose clamps for the rubber hose to the tank and the
breather hose. Your existing gas cap works fine.
Technically - probably illegal - install at your own risk. But here in
California, anyway, you can't find leaded gas, and if you leave the
little warning sticker next to the gas cap, I'd think the average smog
shop wouldn't notice, and if they do, slap the old filler back in.
Craig Reece
----------
From: George Gamarci[SMTP:ggamarci@home.com]
Sent: Thursday, June 22, 2000 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] Premium fuel? Terrible "only" vehicle??
According to LR data it (the stock NAS d-90 fuel tank) holds 15.6 US gallons or 59 liters.
George Gamarci
95 D90 SW #117/500
----------
From: The Becketts[SMTP:hillman@bigpond.com]
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 4:30 AM
Subject: RRO: Re: Larger gas tanks?
> Has anyone put or had fabbed up larger gas tanks for the RR Classic?
They are readily available in Australia. I wonder if ARB USA stocks them.
Some ARB part nos. are:
TR47 - 120 litre for Disco
TR40 - 120 litre for Defender 110
TR37 - 138 litre for RR to mid-95 with plastic tank EFI
TR23S - 131 litre for RR with steel tank & 44mm filler EFI
TR23L - 131 litre for RR with steel tank and 76mm filler EFI
TR01 - 133 litre for RR carb models.
There are more models for Discos and Defenders.
Ron Beckett
-------------------------------
Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 10:56:40 -0600
From: daitken@sugar-land.anadrill.slb.com (Douglas Aitken)
Subject: RE: [D90] gas tank for d90
At 04:47 AM 1/10/99 -0800, Charles wrote:
>Has anyone considered using a European under seat gas tank?
>...Honey I need you out of the car, I have to fill up
>the secondary tank.......
Besides which, my lovely wife is not gonna be all that happy sitting on a gas tank..... It's a perception thing.... ;~)
I dunno if it was mentioned already on this list (old-timer's setting in!)
but there is an outfit called Transfer Flow, Inc. which specializes in
add-on tanks for a variety of vehicles:
http://www.transferflow.com/
The neat thing about their stuff is the flow control system, which automatically balances flow from the aux tank to the main one, with a neat little dash-mounted readout of volume in each. Their stuff is available for a lot of US pickups/RVs/trucks, but they may have something that would work for us, but pro'ly sitting in the bed of the D-90. Howevver, if anyone has a real interest in this, maybe TF could be approached to see what they suggest. They may be able to fabricate something for us.
Doug
'95 Red Defender 90 5-speed
'95 Aspen Silver Range Rover 4.0
----------
From: childress, barnett[SMTP:childress_barnett@emc.com]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:34 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Aux. fuel tanks?
>But whilst on the Brit. Pac. website, I was reminded of thier 9
>or 13 gallon aux. fuel tanks, which answer the same need (for more
>fuel) and for not much more $ (altho more time to install.)
>Has anyone on the list any experience with this tank or others?
I've had BP 9gal. tank installed for a couple of years and its great. Installed it before going out to Colorado. If you hard core wheel then get the 9 gal. tank it tucks up out of the way very neatly and doesn't hang below the frame. I also had a custom skid plate made up for it. The only pain is filling it from the wheel well with 36" tires. I'm looking into getting a filler assembly for it.
Barnett
-------------
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:35:15 -0400
From: "Alan E. Foster" alan.foster@vt.edu
Subject: Re: [D90] Fuel Tank Question
I found this site about a year ago, found it pretty interesting, and it
seems to fit in with this thread:
http://websites.i2020.net/~jaberry/Jeffs.htm
Outlines installing a second tank... consequently, the only site returned
by Yahoo! if you search for "Land Rover Defender 90".
- -Alan
----------
From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 11:22 PM
Subject: [D90] stalling problem
Hey All
With regard to the suggestion of replacing the fuel pump relay--It is not a
standard 4 pin relay on the NAS D-90. It is a special 5 pin relay with two
outputs and (I think) a diode incorporated into it. It runs both the fuel
pump and the O2 sensor heater circuits. If you fit a standard 5 pin relay
you will end up with a dead battery as the O2 heaters will stay energized
with the ignition off. There is no cheap substitute for this part.
Rob Dassler
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 15:07:32 -0500
From: "Pierce, James" jpierce@kjmcnitt.com
Subject: RE: [D90] Fuel Pump part #?
Any late modle chev. p/u pump is identical. I changed mine out with a 97
p/u pump, only difference is where the hose attatches to the top. One is
ribbed (I believe it was the LR). I used a small piece of fuel line and
hose clamp and it worked great. You can pick one up new for about 80 bucks.
James
Chris Velardi tchris@freewwweb.com adds:
The one I used to replace the stock one was an 89 Cadilac Seville made
by AC and puts out 30lbs of pressure (this is important not every model
puts out 30 lbs.) You must cut off the old connector and put on two
female spades. The tank and skid plate must be dropped all the lines must be removed to
replace it. (it's a bitch)
------------
Date: Wed, 3 Mar 1999 09:10:34 -0500
From: "Chris Velardi" tchris@freewwweb.com
Subject: Re: [D90] Fuel pump
A few years back I went to replace my RR in tank fuel pump because it failed* One of the suppliers I spoke to was nice enough to be honest with me and told me the fuel pump itself rarely fails but the wires to the pump lose their connection because of bad epoxy that seals the wire connections to the head of the pump . Sure enough I took the assembly out and the epoxies had given up it hold on the connection and the wires were barley making contact. I re-soldered , re-epoxies, and re-installed ..never had problems again. And saved some big bucks to . Thanks to honesty of some of the parts suppliers
Chris "V"
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 09:54:44 -0500
From: "Alan Dobbs" gulfcmt@flash.net
Subject: RE: [D90] Won't Start Update/ Fuel
> Also cranked with one plug out, smelled for gas, didn't smell any. And
> the plug wasn't wet when I pulled it, and I'd just been trying to start
> it. Maybe I'm not getting gas during starting only ?
One Idea is to remove the dash where all the gauges are ( about 6 phillip
screws) and double check the connections on the ignition switch. There are
multiple connections, and if one is loose it may cause the fuel pump not to
turn on. Myself and also Chris "V" had loose push on connectors and it
caused the fuel pump not to turn on.
----------
From: Chris "V"[SMTP:tchris@freewwweb.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 23, 2000 2:29 PM
Subject: RE: [D90] Another flashback
Thanks for that blast from the past ! (see she loves her man, or did she
just want to get the D90 back to CT;-) Just to sum up what it was : "wrong
gas cap , water got sucked in to the tank , being heavier than fuel it went
to the bottom and directly into the fuel pump / injectors and the engine
wouldn't fire with the 74 % water 23% fuel and 3 % peanut butter cup pond
slime mixture. Thanks to Allen Dobbs and the rest of the guys who dedicated
themselves to finding and fixing the problem. (You guys are the best)
Chris "V"
----------
From: McCreary, Bob[SMTP:bob.mccreary@natoil.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Fuel Filter
>Does anyone have the super secret D90 fuel filter
>replacement part # ?
NAPA Part Number 3481 (AC Delco unit)
Alan E. Foster alan.foster@vt.edu added:
I was able to get the filter from Advance, it's a Purolator F33144; one of
the most common ones, sup. fits almost all GMs.
----------
From: vandecac@netscape.net
Sent: Monday, April 09, 2001 9:16 PM
Subject: fuel filters
More fuel filter part numbers for D90s:
Purolator F33144 (verified it is on mine now)
AC Delco GF481 (is what came off my D90)
Fram 63727
Motocraft FG851
WIX 33481
Cheers
Chris Van Decar
'94 SloMoShun VII
----------
From: Gomes, David[SMTP:david.gomes@us.gambro.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 8:17 AM
Subject: [D90] sealants
Chris V. sez:
"....After pulling the tank and pump I found the filter clogged with black
Permatex sealant....."
Chris and others:
There's no need to use RTV rubber as a gasket dressing, and as Chris (and
many others) has demonstrated, it can be dangerous to do so. If that had
been the oil pump that ingested a wad that came free from an oil pan or
valve cover gasket, Chris could have been replacing something a lot more
expensive than a fuel pump. Use RTV rubber only where you need to CREATE a
gasket to fill a large gap. For gasket dressing and sealing metal to metal
contact use Hylomar HPF. It's advantages are mani-fold.
- you use only enough to give a tacky surface. Almost no discernable
thickness.
- truly oil and fuel PROOF All "colors" of RTV are loosened from metal
surfaces by oil and fuel. It's just a matter of time.
- non hardening formula means gaskets release in one piece and can be
re-used in an emergency. The Hylomar will still be there too, just
re-distribute it evenly over the surface.
- In a thread-sealing application the high-tack, non hardening nature of the
hylomar simultaneously promotes shake resistance and provides some
anti-seize properties by sealing out air and moisture from threads.
- Hylomar has no ammonia fumes to damage sensitive parts.
- and my favorite, no drying time (how much is enough, I always wondered
with RTV rubber). The tube states "Assemble parts and return to service
immediately"
- Oh yeah, and since it's non-hardening, a tube lasts forever, no more
frustration of finding half a tube that's "RTV'ed" in the tube due to a
cracked or poorly sealed cap.
One more point. Bill Burke pointed out during Jay G.'s axle bustin'
adventure in Moab, that RTV should never be used on axle flanges or stub
axle mounting. The RTV will create some amount of a flexible gap between
these high-bending-moment parts. Allowing flex where there should be none.
Use only the (THIN!) paper gaskets with, at most a flange sealant. Hylomar
is a good flange sealant, but Loctite-Permatex makes other products
dedicated to that task. Most importantly - NO RTV!
-Dave G.
----------
From: Jamie[SMTP:jamie.austin@austingroup.co.uk]
Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 8:50 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] 300 tdi timing (long)
the way to tell is:
Lean into the engine bay and remove the small triangle shaped cover plate
that goes over the end of the FIP
you need a thick piece of bar, or a drill bit (can't remember the exact
size, about 10~11mm) rotate the crank pulley until you can slide the drill
bit into the groove on the FIP pulley (it should go in about 3/4 inch, when
the FIP pulley is at the 12:00oclock position IN RELATION TO THE FIP (which
is mounted at an angle to the engine remember!))
Crawl under your engine, remove the wading plug (if fitted) and look up into
the hole (with a torch).
You should see the groove in the flywheel lined up with the hole on the
bellhousing. if not, then get back up, remove the big drill bit from the FIP
and rotate the crank another 180degrees. refit the big drill bit and go back
under the vehicle.
Take a peek into the hole again, the groove should be lined up now.
If it doesn't on either, then the cambelt timing is out.
SO......remove the cambelt cover plate,get someone to turn the crank (with a
suitable sized socket on the end of the crankshaft, not by the starter
motor!)
turn the crank until you see a groove in the flywheel line up with the
center of the drain bung hole. (there is a proper LR tool to lock this into
place,i made mine by getting another wading plug and drilling a 1/4inch hole
through the center of it on a lathe, then get the same 1/4 inch drill, turn
it around so the blunt end points in towards the flywheel and use this to
lock the wheel. if you'r handy with a welder, a small dab of weld,a washer
and a spring can be added to make it 'spring' into place and lock solid)
when this is lined up, the engine is at TDC. loosen the belt tensioner,
remove the belt (make sure you refit it the same way round it came off) and
turn the FIP until you can fit the 11mm drill bit into the slot. when both
the FIP and the crank are locked into position like this, the belt is ready
to refit.
First though, loosen, but don't remove, the three 10mm bolts that hold the
FIP pulley in place. (the pulley has elongated holes so when the bolts are
loose, you can turn the pulley a short way.
refit the belt onto all the pulleys and idlers, and 'wiggle' the FIP pulley
until all the teeth on the pulley line up OK. tension the belt (15lb/ft off
the top of my head! a 1/2 inch drive rachet will fit into the tensioner arm)
nip up the FIP pulley bolts, remove BOTH locking pins (or drill bits) and
then rotate the engine 2 turns on the crank pulley (with the rachet) and
then re-fit the locking pins and double check that the belt has in fact
lined up properly. as long as both of the pins can be fitted at the same
time then all is OK (as the FIP turns at 1/2 crank speed,same as the
camshaft on any engine, you may find that you have to move slightly the
crank to get the bellhousing pin to pop in place)
And that is that! my old 200tdi ran with the FIP 180 degrees out once (my
fault!!) and i ran it like this for about 6 months before the crankshaft
broke in two!!! it did knock a little though!
Jamie
'96 D110 Tdi
'92 D90 V8i
'85 D90 Tdi