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Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 20:50:55 -0700
From: "Alan Dobbs" gulfcmt@flash.net
Subject: [D90] Oil filter data
Here is some good info & data I came across on the net for several types of
oil filters. Sorry there are no factory Land Rover filters in this test but
good info on who's filter is the same with a different private label.
http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
Alan Dobbs
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Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 01:26:41 -0400
From: "Daniel S. Hayes" dsh12@ix.netcom.com
Subject: [D90] Super oil filter
Ok, check this out:
http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/amsoil/by-pass.htm
I might get this one. Below is the response to my question.
- ---- PASTE ------
Dan,
The necessity of drilling holes in your oil pan depends upon which type of
bypass system you purchase. The single bypass mount, requires that a hole
be tapped in the oil pan for a return oil line from the bypass system to the
oil pan.
However, on a Land Rover, I am going to guess that you should have plenty of
extra mounting room under the hood. Therefore, you could probably go with
the dual remote bypass system which mounts both the bypass filtration
element and the full flow filtration element on the same mount. That makes
both filters easy to get to, but it also makes installation much easier.
There is an adapter plate which screws on where your full flow oil filter
would normally be installed. Then, from this adapter plate two hoses are
run. One runs out of the oil system to the bypass filtration system, and
one runs back from the bypass system to the engine.
The difference in cost is about $40. The single bypass unit retails for
about $160 while the dual remote system retails for around $200. This does
not include bypass filtration and full flow filtration elements. Bypass
elements retail for between $25 and $40 depending on the size you use.
AMSOIL full flow filters retail for between $8 and $15 (again, depending
upon the size you purchase).
Generally, if you are using AMSOIL synthetic oil, an AMSOIL bypass
filtration system and an AMSOIL foam air filter, you should be able to go at
least 100,000 miles without an oil change.
Let me know if I can answer any more questions for you.
Regards,
Michael Kaufman
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From: Larry Smith[SMTP:lodelane@home.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2000 1:48 PM
Subject: Oil Filter
Should you need a long filter for a 3.9L, try a NAPA 1622. It is the
equivalent to the AC PF2149.
Larry Smith
Chester, VA
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Date: Sun, 11 Jul 1999 11:55:24 -0500
From: daitken@sugar-land.anadrill.slb.com (Douglas Aitken)
Subject: [D90] Oil, Gasoline, additives & Filters: Some interesting Web
info.
Here's a good source of information on oils and gasoline which makes
interesting (long!) reading:
http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_Fils_Auto.html
Most of us are aware that the snake oil salesman's claims to have an
additive that can allow your engine to run better, cleaner longer, blah
blah, seen in late night infomercials are a load of BS. The article puts
the whole business nicely in (scientific) perspective.
Also the mysteries of gasoline and motor oil are well described. One thing
to remember about using synthetic oils is that, while they are superior in
terms of long life stability, etc, you still need to have effective
filtering.
Some of you may already have seen this interesting filter comparison, but
here it is again. The WIX is one of the filters commonly used in LR engines
here in the States, which came out well in the study:
http://minimopar.simplenet.com/oilfilterstudy.html
Also, as you may want to keep filtration performance for a longer period
between oil changes (if you are full of expensive synthetic, which still is
in excellent shape, but you want to be sure your filter is not clogging
with crap), you could consider the Amsoil bypass filtering system. I
haven't tried this but heard good anecdotal reports. Read about it here:
http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/amsoil/by-pass.htm
Doug
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From: Easton Trevor A[SMTP:trevor_easton@dofasco.ca]
Sent: Monday, July 31, 2000 6:21 AM
Subject: LRO: RE: Mix of Oils-Ed Hackett URL
http://www.virtual-cafe.com/~john/AMSOIL/oilfaq2.html
Also read the article on oils at http://www.bmwscruz.com/tech/tech003.html
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From: Gomes, David
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2000 9:53 AM
Subject: RRO: Oil analysis [was: Running in]
"....The analysis service is available in the UK, I don't know about
anywhere else...."
You can get oil analysis through Oil Analyzers Inc. by buying the kit
(bottle, info sheet, and post-paid mailing box) for $14.95 through
http://www.amsoil.com . This is the kit I use, and it makes it really
painless.
Racor (Parker Hanafin's filtration division) also has a service available.
I also saw reference to oil analysis service in the filter reference catalog
at my local NAPA.
Never used either of these last two services myself though.
-Dave G.
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Date: Sun, 28 May 2000 14:58:20 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett bartlett@slip.net
Subject: Re: Rear main seal
"Daniel S. Hayes" wrote:
>I thought while I was replacing the oil pan gasket I would replace the rear
>main seal. Isn't it a two part seal? I should be about to drop the rear
>main cap and tap out the top half?
> Any experience?
Plenty. Unfortunately it's a one part seal. The transmission and flywheel
need to come out (or alternatively pull the engine out)..
If you have a leak from the rear of the engine chance are pretty good that it's
not the actual main
seal but probably either the cross seals at the end cap (remove and replace..
or better yet fill the
voids with "The Right Stuff" or a comparable sealant) or the cam plug at the
rear of the block.
The main seal does get replaced anyway as part of the cross seal job. It can
probably be set by hand with a bit of fiddling but there are special tools to
help the lip go smoothly and cleanly over the crank and to set the seal to the
right depth.
Have fun (it's a 10 to 14 hour job with a hoist and tranny lift).
Jeremy
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From: A. P. "Sandy" Grice [mailto:rover@pinn.net]
Sent: Saturday, February 16, 2002 10:07 PM
Subject: The word on oil seals
Well, my friend from Land Rover North America called me late Friday with the
skinny on hub oil seals and which way 'round is right.
The seal in question is the FTC4758 made by Corteco (their part #15510034). It
is a duplicate of the original oil seals on my '96 Disco which was actually
built in February of 1995 as the NAS-spec prototype for the '96 year.
The hub seals hace a dished or cupped side and a lip side, but the lip extends
perpendicular to the actual sealing surface, that is, parallel to the stub
shaft. The only difference between the new seal and the original one is that the
new one is marked with "this way to stub axle" and "fit to 4mm" on the face of
the seal. The original seal was installed in such a way that the lipped side
faced the bearings. It also appears that seals have been installed this way as
far back at '92.
Apparently, there was much, ummm, *discussion* at Solihull about this. Even
several service bulletins, I'm told, though I haven't been able to track one
down. It seems that the powers-that-be at Solihull were more concerned at
keeping stuff in rather than out that the seals were installed backwards. About
1997, concurrent with the PRIDE program and the swap over
to swivel hub grease as opposed to 90 wt, the seals were installed the other way
'round - and the reason for the fitment instructions being printed on the seals
themselves. (Well, that's their story, and they are sticking to it....)
So, the proper way to fit hub oil - or rather - grease seals is with the lip
facing out, that is, away from the bearings.
I've tried crossing over these seals at my local bearing place - a firm that had
no trouble with seals and bearings for an early 1950's AeroParts capstan winch,
but they could not cross over the numbers. No matter, BP sells 'em for $4.65,
which is cheaper than I can buy the National hub oil seals for the Series III.
(Federal Mogul/National 410694 in case you are interested.) The inner diameter
of both is the same, but the series has an outer diameter of 3.350" as opposed
to the 3" +_ diameter of the Disco and Rangie.
Would've been neat if they were the same....
Cheers