From: Q[SMTP:reddefender90@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, December 16, 1999 8:38 PM
Subject: [D90] Rimmer Supercharger
Wow.
I have to say that the Rimmer exceeded all my expectations. On my way back from Colorado Springs, the Defender flew along the highway, handling being my only real speed constraint while in 5th. When I hit Monument Hill, I was more than happy to shift to 4th when normally it would have taken 3rd. As I started up the hill, the D90 kept powering happily up the hill in 5th!! Keep in mind that I had 100,000 miles, 35" tires and stock 3.5 gears! I moved into the fast lane and everyone was still slower so I let off the gas. A sports car came up the hill fast behind me and rode my bumper. As the cars in front got out of my way, I punched it (still in 5th at about 2200 RPM) to pass those cars and get out of the way. It pulled strong up the hill and away from the car behind me leaving everyone behind!!!!!! I just can't belive something could make such a difference. I was stunned. My only concern is that anything that would transform my truck this dramaticly must come at a price. I wonder how long it will hold up, it seems impossible that I could get this much power out of my tiny 3.9 for very long. I'll keep you up to date as I hit milestones.
-Q
1995 Land Rover Defender 90
_______________
From: Q[SMTP:reddefender90@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, December 17, 1999 12:54 AM
Subject: [D90] Rimmer Supercharger--long reply
Here's an expanded version (of Chuque's first impressions of the Rimmer Supercharger) for those who are interested.
The most important thing to keep in mind is that Rick Rimmer has changed the system to address the concerns with the origional product. He said installation is the key, and if you live a resonable distance from Colorado... I would definately have them do it. I gave them a second hand kit which I'm sure was missing gaskets and lots of other do-da's and they still charged me the flat rate of $300 for the install. They had to clean the kit, order parts, make changes and the entire install took over 3 days! Still it was only $300. I was kind of torqued when--after day 3--they wanted another day for testing and setup. In retrospec, I'm happy they still had the patience to work on it after 3 days. The rising rate fuel modulator is a nice fix for the 'running lean' issue that plagued the early kits. As the boost on the supercharger comes up, so does the preasure to the fuel system realative to that boost. He said that the D90's are the best vehicle for this system, and that the newer Rangies and Discos aren't really happy with the superchargers presence, no mater how they set it up. The rising rate regulator will run you another $250.
I won't say that Rick Rimmer and his staff relys heavilly on their people skills; but if you exersice patience, you are rewarded with a great product. I too will be interested in long term results of the supercharger, and he admited that he had never seen a D90 with the number of miles mine had; but feels like properly maintained it should be good for another 100,000. I'll keep you updated with longevity, but short term, it ROCKS.
Someone also asked me about fuel economy. I haven't had it long enough to get any numbers obviously, but will on my next road trip. My initial impression is that it will actually help quite a bit. I certainly wansn't expecting that, and was more than willing to give up a couple MPG for a little more power. My D90 typicaly goes through about 1/2 a tank of gas to run from the Springs to Denver (you know, floored in 4th the whole way), and this time it took less than 1/4 tank. That would mean that I should be able to get over 200 miles out of a tank, something I have never seen. I might have had a tail wind or it's all down hill or some other explanation, so I'm not getting my hopes up. But I'll try and give you something more definate as my ownership goes on.
Rimmer Engineering is going to turn into Rimmer Performance Products sometime soon, and they will eliminate their old web site and put up a new one. I hate to stand so firmly behind someone who I've never heard a single good thing about, but the guy could have been satan himself and I would love this product.
-Q
1995 Land Rover Defender 90
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From: Q[SMTP:q@d-90.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 03, 2000 8:46 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] Rimmer
So far I have no complaints. I've heard so much negative about the Rimmer kit that I've just resolved myself to the fact that I'm sitting on a time bomb. The funny thing is, with the exception of Greg (who I bought mine from) none of this 'bad' information comes from owners of the SC. I comes from East Coast Rover, or Dealers, or people who heard about it going bad from a friend. The people I talked to who actually HAVE the SC on their vehicles usually have a couple maintenance tips, but otherwise enjoy them. I'm not going to bother trying to battle the terrible reputation out there, I'll just keep tearing up and down the mountain, blowing by all the slow cars and grinning until it explodes. I will carry an extra belt, and an extra pulley, and check it on a regular basis. They said they've had a couple pulleys fail (out of hundreds) and they have all been on D-90's that see a lot of mud. I'm no exception to that, so hand me a spare!
I could end up being the biggest Rimmer hater in the world tomorrow, but right now I've come to the following (I'm no expert) conclusions.
1. Heat seems to be one of the biggest contributor to pinging.
a. Snorkel helps a lot. Ambient air temp is HOT under the hood.
b. Upgraded cooling system doesn't hurt either.
c. With winter, the fuel modulator, and the above mods, I have never been
able to make my D-90 ping.
2. The belts are running an additional load, and further
a. Check the belt every time you change the oil
b. Carry a spare, it's cheap
3. Pulleys can (on rare occasion after abuse) fail, carry a spare
4. The mechanic talked about how stupid Rimmer owners are. For example,
they never change the SC's oil...
a. The oil is an special synthetic rated for the life of the supercharger
or 100,000.
b. It costs about $40 a pint or something like that
c. I hope that guy never helps me out by sticking 90w in there...
5. You have to be willing to maintain it. Like bead locks, or heim joints or anything else that requires attention. It's great if you watch it, and will bite you in the ass if you just keep it floored up the hill while it pings like mad or the idler pulley squeals like a stuck pig. Address the problem.
Once again, I haven't had it long (maybe 2000 miles) and I haven't had any problems yet. My whole view could change tomorrow. But if you are entertaining getting one, these are the things I suggest. As a side note, the new Autorotor address several issues (design doesn't heat air as much, uses the engines oil, is more efficient taking less power to run (strains the belt less) and uses a machined aluminum case instead of sand cast, allowing heat to affect it less) as well as using bigger bearings and a higher displacement blower, making it work less to create the same PSI. I'll be interested to see if you can feel the difference in the D-90, you sure could in the Daewoo!
-Q
1995 Red Defender 90 #2069
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From: Tom Walsh[SMTP:tomw@best.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:26 PM
Subject: [D90] supercharger
I've been tooling around in the D90 for a bit now with the new
Rimmer installed autorotor supercharger..
When I picked it up in Coloroado Springs ( I went directly to our
cabin @ 7200 ft and them onto Durange for some 7k to 12k ft
cruising..
At altitude the rig ( with 4.75's and 35" SSR's ) seemed to be at
least as quick as the vehicle was when it was completely stock when
at sea leavel ( IE: stock gearing and stock tires no blower )...
This is good.... as the tires ( and altitude ) are a big drag...
Once I got her home ( I live @ ~3k ft, but I'm on a mountain, and
most surrounding areas are ~sea level ) A big difference here! At 3k feet I could pull out of a T
intersection and bark the tires a bit ( big 35's )
At sea level even more boost... but I thought I could hear some
pinging.... after some investigation, it was probably where the air
hose connects to the air box ( one of the two connectors was broke )
and it may have been rattling a bit.....
The unit has a low volume whistling sound at idle ( kinda cool ) and
makes a nice humm/whine when boosting at rpm....
while debugging the potential sea-level ping that I thought I could hear
( which is hopefully the loose air feed.... I disconnected the hose (
and the connected mass air flow sensor still in line properly ) from the air box for a
short ride.. to see if air intake flow ( and possibly cooler air from further
away from the engine ) would do anything different...
Whoa baby! I could detect no ping, but it was hard to tell with that
beatiful louder whine and all that burning rubber sound :)
During expirementation I manged to set off the check engine light..
Upon investigation, My air hose got to close to the headers ( stock )
and sorta melted a bit of it... the net result most likely set the
check engine light due to a differential in sensor information between the
MAF and the resulting air flow at the blower ( plenium in essence )...
This always results in an unhappy engine ( and check light ) regardless of
whether your charged or nomally aspirated....
I am now searching to purchase an appropriate scanner/tool to read basic
OBDII to make sure ( and reset the beast ).... Ultimately some of
them have the ability to monitor knocks/fuel issues etc..... those
functions may not however.. work with the rover OBDII as it probably
has a brittish accent :)... Also I will investigate rich/lean meters
that can hook to the O2 sensors for real time visual feedback.
I ordered a snorkel kit today as I have found even normaly aspirated
engines benifit from the cooler air it gets outside the engine bay,
I also run a K&N filter...
Additionally I will be cutting the vent holes in the hood to make
sure engine temps are kept at bay ( engine ran fine temp wise except
when slow rock crawling up poughkypsie gulch at 11.5 K ft ( near where
buttheads got jeeps stuck in Colorodao 2 weeks ago ( cept my trail is
legal :).. )... she ran a little hot, but was managable...
On occasion under hard acceleration I may hear one unmistakable
louder ( not hugely loud ) ping, but no more, my belief is that the
4.0's anti knock sensor figure this out, and does the right thing
with the timing.... additionally every so often I think I can feel the
vehicles speed ( or acceleration ) being micromanaged in one
direction or another... I belive this is also the knock sensor/timing
and or rising rate fuel gizmo managing the engine as it feels
necessary to create an happy spark environment....
More data and info will follow as I get it.
TomW
---------
From: Chris "V"[SMTP:tchris@freewwweb.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2000 5:02 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] MF2 Super charger
At this point we are installing the extra injector in the plate in the rear
of the blower inlet box plate . This puts the injector facing right into the
blower (above the distributors and in front of the air cleaner) Next is to
find a good raised air intake/ cleaner to get cooler air temps into the
combustion chamber. Pulling that engine heated air from under the hood is
counter productive to the blowers addition. We will also put the new MF2
computer and map sensor to the back of the engine CPU .
Chris "V"
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From: Chris "V"[SMTP:tchris@freewwweb.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2000 10:34 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Superchargers
The updated version of the Rimmer super Charger system uses either one of
two modifications . OBDI systems (pre '97) a rising rate regulator, and
OBDII ('97) a MF2 (micro Fuel) system is used. Both are designed to add more
fuel to the superchargers added air boost. With out it if you are constantly
mashing the accelerator you will lean out (to much air not enough fuel ) and
burn out the cylinders. This upgrade can be added to their previous systems.
Chris "V"
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From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2000 9:02 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Rimmer
Just a couple of quick notes on superchargers. I work on several D-90s that are supercharger equipped (Rimmer kits). On all of the cars--it pays to pay attention to the condition of the spark plugs--every service on a SC equipped car has at least one plug with the ceramic insulator blown off--usually number 1. change your spark plugs like you change the oil. Secondly, the additional load of the supercharger puts additional strain on the ignition system. It will probably last 20-30k miles in its present configuration before breaking down. I have installed MSD ignition systems on several cars to cure this problem. Lastly, check all nonfactory connections regularly. I have seen multiple problems on higher milage SC cars due to installation shortcuts. These include knock sensor harnasses melted by the exhaust, scotchlock connections (instead of solder) at the TPS that have vibrated loose/corroded, and loose coil connections. Hope this helps.
Rob Dassler
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From: Gomes, David [david.gomes@us.gambro.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: RE: [D90] supercharger
Tom,
For mixture meters try http://www.summitracing.com
(PITA site, but not easy to org as many products as they have)
Select:
1: the Store tab at the upper right
2: Air and Fuel Delivery under Catalog Departments
3: Air/Fuel Ratio Monitors under Department Sections.
You'll need to add an additional O2 sensor for these. Not sure how to
convert existing O2 sensor output to something usable in a gage without
effecting the ECU, but it probably could be done.
Or, for something more complex:
http://www.rtbmotorsports.com/SPLITSEC/arc2.htm
Here's a good description of what the ARC units do in a little different
context:
http://www.rtec.ch/maf_conversion.html
-Dave G.
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From: james biglane[SMTP:jbiglane@sprynet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] rimmmer supercharger
Alan,
My long nose drive assembly has broken. This is what the fan belt fit on. It started making noise and leaking oil when I was in Moab, and when I got back to Durango, it was making a lot of noise and leaking very badly.
I called Rimmer, and they said they could fix it. But they didn't have any parts and didn't know if they could get the parts because they didn't sell them any more. They also said that if I sent the broken part to them, it would take several weeks to fix.
They suggested that I contact Magnuson Products (805 - 642-8833) ( www.magnusonproducts.com) since they are now the importer and distributor of the Eaton Super Chargers. I called them and talked to a tech. named, Chris, who said that if I could send the whole super charger to them, they would repair it and try to ship it back within 48 hours. I asked if they could also provide me with a spare long nose drive assembly, and he said, "yes".
I took the D-90 to Durango 4x4 on Friday, June 16th. They took the complete super charger off and sent it Federal Express to California - next day delivery.
I got a call from Magnuson this Tuesday AM, saying they had fixed the problem, and they were sending it back to Durango 4x4 along with the spare part - next day air. The price for fixing it plus the spare part was $690 dollars. So, they should have it back together tomorrow (Wednesday, June 21st), but I'm now in Natchez, Mississippi. I won't be back to Colorado for several weeks. Magnuson Products seem to give pretty good service so far.
James 97 D-90
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From: jimallen@onlinecol.com[SMTP:jimallen@onlinecol.com]
Sent: Friday, June 23, 2000 7:30 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Supercharger value?
The primary issue of durability with the supercharged Rover engine
is maintaining emissions legality while getting the power increase. Without
the spectre of EPA death squads, it's fairly simple (relatively speaking)
to modify the antiquated Rover EFI to be compatible the forced induction
(high flow injectors, rising rate FP regulator, recalibrated ECU and
ignition, etc.). If you can't pump in extra fuel with the extra air, the
mixture leans out, combustion temps go way up, detonation starts and a
smoked engine can be the result. Charge air heating is an issue, but at
5-5.5psi boost, not a huge issue. The 9.35 compression ratio of the later
model engines doesn't help either.
The only mods that can compete with a supercharger in bang-for-buck
are the big displacement conversions, where bore and stroke are increased.
There are a lot of advantages to a big displacement, understressed engine
but these conversions aren't quite a bolt-in either and may not be emission
legal. EFI mods are still necessary, as well as cooling system (a 5.0L
generates more waste heat than a 4.0L and the bigger engine uses up most of
the built-in reserve capacity you might need on a really hot day or tough
situation) and exhaust mods due to the increased volume of flow.
One thing you get with the 'charger that you don't with the
big-inch conversion is altitude compensation. A big engine is still going
to lose 40% at 10,000 feet.
Before I go out on a limb and expose my posterior to the flame
throwers, I will state that I am of two minds over this. I have tested and
driven both examples and found neither concept particularly wanting. A 5.0L
and a supercharged 4.0 are on nearly equal terms performancewise, with the
bigger engine having a slight edge below 1500 rpm and the supercharged unit
with a little more juice above 3000 rpm. Overall, they even out. Here's a
graphic example, if you don't mind my mentioning the J-word.
FWIW conceptually, I tested two Grand Cherokees. Identical in year
and equipment (even color), except one had a Rimmer supercharged 4.0L and
the other a stock 5.2L V8. In a drag race (and in measured 0-60) they were
almost a dead heat, with the 5.2L getting a car length off the line but the
4.0L rapidly caught up. By 70mph, the 4.0L had left the 5.2 in the dust.
Ditto with 50mph rolling starts. My experiences with Rovers is the same,
though I haven't had two at the same tiem to run against each other.
(Shields up) On the durability side, most of the problems I've seen
or heard of with supercharged Rovers are due to the drivers ignoring
climatic (temperature) conditions and/or detonation and keeping the pedal
to the metal. One could argue that you shouldn't have to be in thrall to
these conditions, and there is an element of truth to that, but you have to
be pretty dumb to smoke your engine while it's screaming very audibly for
mercy.
Don't waste time arguing about nickle-dime mods like cams, exhaust
and heads. They are each very incremental by themselves and while you can
demonstrate higher HP figures with a small inch engine by combining lots of
mods, remember that HP is a product of engine speed and that small inch
engine is essentially being spun faster and having its low end torque
sacrificed. If you were driving a Morgan Plus 8, it would be a worthwhile
trade. For a heavy Land Rover, I don't think it is.
You may be tempted to bandy about manfactuers claims for power
increases. When you read aftermarket manufacturers claims, remember that
you are getting the optimized figures. A few years ago, I worked with a
major US exhaust company to produce a performance exhaust for Discos, Range
ROvers and D90s. My own dyno tests produced a 5-6% increase (on par with
many other testers), they advertised 15%. 'Nuff said.
Well, I hope you are inspired to debate further. As for me, I'm
gone for a month and will probably be out of reach of the flame throwers.
Jim Allen
----------
From: Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2000 12:51 PM
Subject: Other options [was:Re: [D90] superchargers]
Superchargers for Rovers would be, for anyone in business in the States, a
marginal activity at best, due to the demographics involved. There was an
outfit which did conversions to top-of-the-line Range Rovers that sent me a
brochure a while back, but they were looking for the Robb Report-type
individual (gold-plated headers, etc......) to buy their kits.....
Rimmer have obviously struggled with the Defender kit, and have suffered
because of it. I think because (as Dave G pointed out a while back) it
takes a bit more than just increasing the boost with an air pump! And given
the number of kits they are likely to sell in the US, it prolly is not
worth it, when they have all those little rice burners out there gasping
for a bit of forced induction. If you check their web page, you will get
the message: you cannot even find mention of the rover kit!
That being said, the rover engine is a favorite of British tuners and the
customer base is WAY bigger, so why not go looking there?
I did a little web searching and came up with the following (but claim no
personal involvement with any, so tread lightly!):
The principal forced induction specialists are, I believe, J. E.
Engineering, who do turbo and supercharger kits for Land Rovers. Their
stuff is not cheap! but it probably has been fully engineered, with all the
gizmos needed to get a decent fuel-air mixture and spark at the right time!
http://www.jeengineering.co.uk/
For electronic control of fuel delivery, there is an outfit called Stunned
Buffalo in the UK who do mods which could be interesting:
http://www.alkemy.freeserve.co.uk/sbr.html
Of course, you have the argument on forced induction vs decent tuning, and
there it seems that RPI engineering http://www.rpi-engineering.co.uk/
(available here from East Coast Rovers) have an excellent range of
products, highly recommended by people in the UK.
We need to remember that we have an old Buick engine under the hood, so
there should be some expertise out there in the US! Also, this engine was
stuck in the last TR (8) brought to the states, so they have some knowledge
of tuning: http://www.team.net/TR8/Vendors/USRoverV8list.html
If you want another take on rebuilding a rover engine with US bits 'n'
pieces, check out;
http://www.team.net/TR8/mp/html/body_buick_215_conversion.html
good reading, but way beyond my ability. however, this type of article can
point people in the right direction regarding US HotRod type vendors for
engine conversions!
For aftermarket Hot-Rod supplies, I have just come across a major source
round the corner from houston: I might drop by for a chat and see if they
have any ideas. Meantime, they have plenty of on-line catalogs!:
http://www.martelbros.com/
Enough: gotta do some work today!
Doug
Dave Read [daveread@dove.net.au] added:
Haltech. (ECU - ed.)
My Haltech F9 (fuel only) manual does not mention superchargers, only
turbochargers, but I can't see why the adjustment wouldn't be there. They
have a web site at http://www.haltech.com.au/ .
Superchargers.
There is a South Oz mob http://www.capa.com.au/ that may be able to help
with superchargers, especially with our dollar exchange rate at the moment
:-(.
Thats if you can put up with the corny music :)
Cheers
Dave
South Australia
Dave Sherwood[SMTP:zaphod@bitstream.net] added:
http://www.Eaton.com/supercharger
Listed the following site...
http://www.magnusonproducts.com/current_app.htm
Which led me to these two listed as installing Eaton superchargers for Rovers...
http://www.chariotsoffiresuvs.com/
http://www.specialvehicles.com
These two seem like ultra high-end conversion houses, but maybe they can help...
Scott Monico[SMTP:smonico@monico.com] added:
I sent an email to http://www.chariotsoffiresuvs.com/ which was listed by
David Sherwood as an installer of the Eaton supercharger. I told them I had
the 97d90 and was interested in a supercharger. The following is there
response.
Scott,
We do have a performance package for your Defender. The package includes an
Eaton M-90 supercharger, cat-back exhaust, fuel management system and K&N
filter. The price is $6995 installed.
Regards,
Tony
Scott Monico
97d90
----------
From: Tom Walsh[SMTPtomw@best.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2000 1:17 PM
Subject: [D90] super charger & OBDII stuff ( not short :)
Over the weekend I installed my snorkel, the MSD RLI ( rich/lean
indicator ), repaired and heat taped my old MAF to plenium air intake
hose and investigated and purchased 2 different OBDII
solutions which allowed me to reset and investigate the check engine
light on the Killer Bee.
I have determined the engine is running lean :( And in fact the
slight noise I have heard is a combination of the superchargers twin
screws making ( normal ) noise and prolly a bit of very light pinging ( an
assumpition since I'm running lean ).... The RLI are a great aid.. I
had to drill and seat the new 02 sensor bungs into the exhaust
system. The MSD directions made no mention of placement with respect
to the catalytic converters ( they only stated general distance
parameters ) , So I chose to mount the units near the stock 02
sensors aft of the cats... I welded the threaded bungs for permanancy
and to prevent leaks... The kit suggests *not* running with the
sensors in place all the time, and provided a threaded nut to seal
the bung when the sensors weren't in place ( good, as the new 02
sensors probably would get ripped off on a rock due to my placement
of them for servicability and easy install ( aka: lazy bugger :) )
I temporarily wired em up to get the tests started ( I will do a
better job later, as the wires are running from the frame, through
the door to the LED units just sitting on my console! )...
At sea level, the units almost always indicate lean unless I really
stomp on it, then they go rich briefly... As I drive up to the 3150
ft summit near my house ( I'm at 2780 ft ) the mixture changes due to
the altitudes effect on octane requirements going down...
At 2900-3150 ft just a medium depresion of the pedal makes it go from
lean to rich..... also, when the snokel is disconnected and air
filter removed it seems better..... again when the snorkel is hooked
up and the air filter is removed it runs rich with almost any
pressure at 3150 ft... Unfortunately there are only a few miles of
road at this altitude here, and the rest of the world ( bay area ) is
mostly at sea level! While at the cabin ( and other areas ) in
Colorado the system seemed to run with less oomph, but seemed to have
less suspicious low grade ping noise ( IE: none seemingly )
I run high octane fuel ( always have before the install ) ...
Conclusions:
Surprisingly the system runs lean *alot* at sea level with minimal
loading, when you get on it, it goes rich.... When it goes rich
( IE: *IF* it goes rich ) is dependant on increasing altitude... I
would have expected it the other way ( yes the RLI is hooked up properly :)
Seemingly the supercgarger is set up for Colorado Springs altitude!
I beleive I need the rising rate fuel device ( as I had suspected
when I asked last week what the top thing was ( I knew, but wanted
unbiased answers :)... That I didn't get one and Cliff did for some
reason... ) I also beleive I need a larger pulley on the blower to
reduce its RPM and there fore provide a richer fuel supply...
And now onto OBDII :)
Ultimately I will be able to use the OBDII
equiptment to determine *how* rich or *how* lean is the mixture..
If it on the border, it not a big deal ( most likely ).
I first purchased a pc based OBDII scan tool from:
http://www.obd-2.com
for a couple of hundred bucks ( I purcahsed the *industrial* multi
use version as I have..... yes... eight cars! hopefully six next week as
two are about to be sold as I have no need for em! needless to say
the entire DMV's weekly luncheons and customer grumpy classes are
funded by my fees no doubt! )... My intentions were to debug and
reset the check engine light from my laptop, and analyze the fuel
mixture...... well the software needs some work ( it was free )
as it chops off some of the window ( I run 1400*1050 24 bit on 15"
laptop screen which may screw up software that ass-u-mes a certain
res ).. at any rate.. It could download the codes and read them, see
engine rpm's etc... but couldn't reset things ( maybe the button was
clipped !!! )..... So being a bit P/O'd I went down to Kragen and
bought the handheld auto Xray for $259... it works great and allowed
me to reset the light ( it was misfire due the broken hose most
likely ).... I have a new version of the PC stuff to try today as I
would like to get more specifics on the mixture...the mixture level
can be determined from the component of the signal from the O2
sensor. It like a sine wave if its the top ( positive ) it rich if
its the bottom ( negative ) than its lean.... These values can be
measured via the hand hel and analized.. or through the PC software
and graphed ( told ya I'm lazy )....
I also snarfed some software from another vendor.. I am hoping I can
use with the 1st pc based scan tool ( it may be that most PC based scan tool
software will work with the ISO OBDII connector to rs232 cable ( aka
the PC based scanner ) ... assuming the vendors don't embed a magic
cookie in the things! We shall see )
In short I'm trying to directly talk to rimmer ( no answering
machines for me on this one ) and rectify stuff.. I'm not dissing em
at all, and beleive we can fix this.. it may be I am just set up for
alititude, as thats how it seems to behave..
Todo:
heat wrap headers
heat wrap the rest of the air intake hose ( the snorkels new hosing )
rewire RLI's
Get rich ( not lean :)
TomW, geek in the garage :)
----------
From: Tom Walsh[SMTP:tomw@best.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 11:48 PM
Subject: [D90] charger noise
I talked with Cliff the other night about our super chargers, I guess
he has a bearing noise or something? Its quite loud, but apparently
does not effect the operation of the rig ( yet?? )..
Well as some of you know I thought I had heard some pinging on myne..
So I went off on a mission to prove/disprove the rich/lean mix of the
system... Well after a bunch of tests.. I think the fuel mixture is
at least reasonable if not good.. The noise I heard was a light
chattering... I used a hollow copper pipe to isolate the noise, and
it seems its coming from the front of the blower...
This may be similar to what Cliff ( and another guy ) have been
experiencing... I will have to dig deeper, If it is the nose bearing,
we have to determine if its sealed or oiled via the oil inlet from
the engine.... If it is oiled via the engine, the flow rate may not
be up to snuff ( for the blower ?? ).. Anyone know what the oil flow rate
should be on the 4.0 via the oil pump?
As a test ( albiet a poor one ) I parked on a real steep down- ( and
then up- ) -hill to see if more oil would *flow* down to the front of
the blower and oil the nose bearing ( and also if it would flow away
).. no difference noted in the sound...
My noise is not very loud, so it may be normal ( ?? ). I will be looking
into this as time allows ( it may be late next week )...
Fortunately my porsche is back together again, and soon the front
locker install on the FC101 will be done So I'm not forced to grind
the rig into metal bits if it isn't happy!
I only left one message for Rick 2 weeks ago about a "noise"
apparently according to Dave G., Rick thinks I'm golden, so his (
cat/dog/bird,... pick something ) must be hitting the delete button on
the anwering machine! )
TomW
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From: Cliff[SMTP:gfai@mindspring.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2000 11:26 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] charger noise
Well I got the stock belt back on the engine and it seems to run fine
even bypassing the supercharger. It doesnt "windmill" like Brandon said,
but it does drive ok. If you are in drive and at a slow speed, then try
to accelerate it has a pronounced hesitation, but thats all. It does
seem sluggish, but I may just be used to the new power. I am still
planning on taking it very very easy, and wouldnt even be driving it if
I didnt have an appt at the dealer.
Also, Brandon (at Rimmers) called tonight and explained what I should
check out. He said to first remove the belt, then remove the front nose
of the supercharger. There is supposedly a "rubber coupler" in there
that may have failed. Im betting that thats it. I havnt tried to remove
it, but if you take ahold of the pully there is quite a bit of play
turning it from left to right. (and you can hear the noise) If that
looks ok he said to switch the oil line to the other side and see if the
noise quit due to more oil. If none of that cures it, another complete
unit will be sent out. Which is what I am going to request anyway.
Brandon also said that there is a port on the manifold that I can tap
the boost gague into.
I have to thank Dave G again for helping me out with getting the belt
off, and back on correctly.
Lastly, there is a red '95 soft top D90 here locally that does have
cruise control. Dimmit Land Rover had it installed by a local shop and
the guy swears by it. He paid something like $1200 for it, but Ill bet
if he had gone straight to the shop and cut out the dealer it would have
cost 1/2 as much (or less). It does look factory i must say, and is on
my "someday, if I have the $, and nothing else to do list".
Cliff
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From: Cliff[SMTP:gfai@mindspring.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 26, 2000 10:37 PM
Subject: [D90] Supercharger failure diagnosed!?
I was just installing the new supercharger overnighted to me from
Rimmer, it occured to me before I installed the plug in the side of the
supercharger that has the oil orafice in it to wash it out.
It turns out it was completely clogged!
There was NO OIL getting to the supercharger at all. No wonder the
coupler got hot and came apart.
I have informed Brandon of this and would HIGHLY recommend anyone with a
supercharger to unscrew the line, remove the fitting and check for
debris.
What these particles are I am unsure, but they as well as the old unit
are on their way back to Rimmer.
Brandon said he will try to determine their origin and composition. They
were not affected by the brake cleaner I used to flush the particles
out, so I am fairly sure they are not petroleum based. The brake cleaner
DID disslove the dixie cup i used to contain the particles though ;-)
I cant imagine what they are, but must have come from/through the oil
pump (?) as the line comes right from there. I religiously change my oil
every 3000 miles with Mobil 1 and use a Mobil 1 filter as well. The
engine only has 48,000 miles and runs great.
Brandon is looking into a type of filter to prevent this from occuring
again. Hopefully a glass one so I can see if particles are accumulating.
I am waiting for another pully as I damaged this one getting it off and
will now wait for a filter before running it again.
Cliff