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Date: Sat, 2 Sep 2000 23:41:54 -0500
From: "Ross Edwards" rossedwards1@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: A/C system and off-roading this weekend.
> I have a '95 d-90 ST and I would like to add a/c since it did not have it.
> Is this possible? Anyone know where I might get a system new or used?
We added A/C to my current 94 D90. Bought it from LRNA. I believe it cost
around $1200 to $1400 USD for just the kit. I receive a fairly large
discount from my local dealer but the $ should probably be close. I'm not
sure what it'd cost to install though as we did it ourselves.
Ross Edwards
94 D90 ST SE
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From: Christopher D. Van Decar[SMTP:vandecar@net-gate.com]
Sent: Monday, February 28, 2000 9:47 AM
Subject: [D90] A/C
For retrofitting A/C to a D90, try contacting an outfit called "Vintage
Air". They are headquartered in San Antonio and specialize in building
A/C kits for older cars and trucks that didn't have it originally. My
buddy got a nice kit (very complete) for his '73 Bronco.
Sorry I don't have a number for them but you could probably find the
info in an issue of 'Hot Rod" or maybe even "4Wheeler"
No worries
Chris Van Decar
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From: Larry Michelon[SMTP:lmichelon@i-c.net]
Sent: Friday, June 09, 2000 9:46 AM
Subject: RE: R134 conversion tons of questions?
Dave,
I'm not an expert, but I've done quite a bit of research and will probably
have the new system up and running by mid next week. I've got all the parts
ready to go. Time to take the dash apart for the 3rd time (not necessarily
necessary, read on).
The expansion valve does not need to be replaced. The problem is that the
system needs to be flushed of the old R-12 oil, which could require it to be
removed. Here are the options for flushing.
1) compressed air. Simply blowing compressed air through the hoses will
remove a majority of the oil in the system and is considered adequate.
2) chemical (at home) flush. You can buy this to help further remove the
R-12 oil ($12 from Pepboys). Pour or blow it through the hoses, evaporator
and condenser. Then blow out with compressed air. This is what I will be
doing, but this requires the removal of the expansion valve (as recommended
by the chemical flush and a "pro" I talked to). It is a major PITA to get
the expansion valve out as you have to disassemble most of the dash (I can
break it down now in about 1 hour, and still concede the hardest part is
trying to get the radio back in). I have to replace my expansion valve
anyhow because my receiver/dryer gave way sending all sorts of sh*t into the
system (and trashing the new expansion valve I just put in). Along with
flushing the system, you also need to drain out the R-12 oil in the
compressor (there's a little fitting) and refill with R-134a (ester) oil
(about 5-6oz)
3) professional flush. At least one shop by me has a machine that can hook
up to the system and flush it without having to remove the expansion valve.
The cost is about $175 though.
4) (hearsay) one guy told me that some machines can evacuate the freon and
oil, including the oil in the compressor. You would just have to make sure
they show you how much oil was dragged out. A system will hold about 6oz of
oil.
As far as changes to the system, you really should replace the dryer ($20).
You also have to install adapters (hi and low side) on the schrader valves
(located on the back of the compressor) that adapt them to the R-134a quick
connect hoses and cap off any service port (there is one the dryer on my
'89). I bought a conversion kit ($20) that has adapters, R-134a oil and
assorted O-rings (for any connection you break).
If your system is not working, you should find out why first. I had to
replace the thermostat (electrical), dryer, expansion valve ($23) and one
hose ($20 made while I waited).
As far as some of your specific questions that haven't been answered yet:
"If I replace the receiver dryer and compressor do I still have to flush the
system?"
This will have removed most of the oil, but you will still have to flush as
stated above with at least compressed air.
"The compressor comes filled with PAG oil, do I need any more added to the
system? If so, how much more?"
The A/C shop where I bought my parts said to add 1oz of oil into the dryer
(because I was replacing it).
"Do I need to change any of my fittings, or can I reuse my
existing hoses and fittings?"
They should all be fine, but I would consider replacing any O-ring you can
get to easily. I'm told R-134a leaks easier.
"So many questions!"
I think I covered it all [sigh].
"Someone posted a web site with a $20 valve thingie
that's supposed to improve performance. Anyone know if it really works?
Where does it go?"
I'm not buying it (the thing and the hype). If you do a decent flush and
replace the dryer, it should work better than you last remember it. And come
on, we're talking about a vehicle that a cat could get out of with all the
doors and windows closed (I really liked that joke!).
"As for alternate blends of freon, I think I'll stick
with R134a since I can get replacement cheap and readily."
I'm with you. The A/C shop I was at had 12oz cans of R-134a for $3.90. I
think R-12 is up to $20-30 a can.
Larry Michelon
'89 RR