----------
From: Craig Reece[SMTP:craigreece@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 10:41 PM
Subject: Re: [D90]How to enter radio code was Help with radio
According to my owner's manual, on page 151 (for a '95 D90 anyway;)
* Switch on the unit by pressing the On/Off button. ("Code In" appears
in the display.)
* Enter the correct security code by pressing the numbered buttons
(the six rectangular buttons with numbers on them) in the the right
order.
* When the correct code has been entered, the display will show the
radio frequency and the radio will operate.
* (and it has a procedure to follow if the wrong code has been
entered: press and hold the BND/4 button for approx. 3 secs. at
which point CODE IN appears on the display. Now enter the correct
code.
If you don't know the correct code I'll sell you my radio and tell you
the code. But you can probably get it from the dealer somehow - I'm sure
someone on the list knows.
Craig Reece
Sam Simpson [SMTP:RJSEsqAntq@aol.com] adds:
The code for your radio is on file at Land Rover North America.
Using your vin number it is possible to reference the radio code, but the
information will only be given out to a dealer. If you are on good terms with
a dealer, you could probably do it over the phone.
If the radio is not the original radio for that vehicle, and data
has not been updated, then it might be necessary to pull the radio. On the
back of the radio is a serial number. This number can also be used buy the
dealer to find the code.
When the vehicle was originally sold the radio code was given out
on a small card, this card was usually kept in the pocket on the inside cover
of the owners manual. It is a four digit number.
This situation will probably happen a lot. When you get the
number have it saved in the vehicle somewhere.
Good luck Sam Simpson.
----------
From: djmarley@aol.com[SMTP:djmarley@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 4:44 AM
Subject: [D90] Re: Fw: Original LR D90 CD player
The LRNA part is in fact a Clarion CDC-605 CD
changer which can be had from any car stereo
place that deals with Clarion Pro Audio. I think I
paid $265.00 mail order for it. Then get part #
LRNA90CD97 which is a bracket and new plastic
inner cubby box liner with the whole in it for the
CD changer ($56.93 from my local dealer)
Derek
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From: koly[SMTP:koly@koly.com]
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2000 9:52 AM
Subject: [D90] RE: Factory CD player - A FIX, and a spare mounting unit FS
First - I've got a spare LRNA 6 disc mounting unit/housing that mounts onto
the back of the stock cubby to hold the CD player. If anyone is interested,
let me know - I'll let it go pretty cheap (I think the original unit was at
least $75??) I don't have the screws, but all you need are some wood screws
to hook it up to the cubby.
Q - My CD player has had the same problem(s) several times. There is a
fairly easy fix - take off the cover of the unit (you have to take off the
bottom first, I believe, in order to then get the plastic face off to reveal
two hidden screws that are necessary to remove to take off the top cover).
The problem:
The two rollers that slide the CD onto the spinning tray get dust/finger
grease/gunk/whatever built up on them, and don't have any grip to pull the
CD all the way over into the spinning tray. As CD's are a relatively smooth
surface to begin with, the dust on both the discs and the rollers prohibits
a "full" slide into the tray. It will also inhibit the CD returning to the
cartridge. To get the cartridge out, always try unplugging the unit (the
unit has constant power, even if the key is out of the ignition and the
radio is off) and waiting 30 secs before plugging it in again.
Solution:
Get some "Q" tips (heh heh) and some alcohol or other "clean" solution that
won't leave residue. Dip the Q tips in said solution, then proceed to clean
the two rubber rollers that sit between the CD spinning area and the CD
cartridge area. Clean these rollers thouroughly - the bottom roller will be
much more difficult to clean as it will not spin freely like the top roller.
Replace the cover on the player, and you should be good to go. Also, to
prevent this from happening more often, try to make sure your CD's are clean
and free of fingerprints/dust/etc.
I've had to clean my rollers several times, but this has always solved the
problem.
rover on...
Bob K.
'95 D90 #2721
Q reddefender90@hotmail.com added:
As a side note, we used to fix HP Deskjet Printers that had the same problem
with picking up paper. The old rollers would get slick as the aged. If you
buffed the rollers with a scotch-bite pad it would make them grip again.
Maybe the same fix would apply here.
--------------------------------
From: Don Herrero[SMTP:dherrero@sechq.com]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 11:30 AM
Subject: RE:Dicovery CD changers
John,
the CD changers in the Disco I are by Pioneer. the pinout has been changed so that the standard Pioneer won't work with the LR head unit. the clarions are a direct fit for the D90's though.
for all of those interested in an adapter contact PIE at:
http://www/pie.net
they say that they don't have a large enough demand to make an adapter for
the disco. i believe people on the Disco list have already started asking
for the adapter. they make adapters for the RR classic and D90
danno
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 12 Jul 1999 23:48:25 -0500
From: Bill Ritchie billnsandi@kingwoodcable.com
Subject: [D90] FireStik AM/FM/CB converter
Just got my new FireStik AM/FM/CB converter box in today - looks good (and
is cheap - $19 direct). It does not have a switch as previously mentioned,
so it allows you access to the CB antenna for CB and Radio (AM/FM)
simultaniously. This will be an advantage for those interested in running
the new Southdown snorkel or custom snorkels that have to bend around the
existing crappy oem antenna. When I get it hooked up I will let ya know how
it works.
btw: they sent a cool sticker with it too :)
Bill Ritchie
-------------
Date: Tue, 05 Sep 2000 11:16:20 -0500
From: Scott Monico smonico@monico.com
Subject: RE: Stock Stereo Wiring Information/Diagrams PLEASE HELP!!
This is the info for a 97 d90 stock radio. I dont know if it is different
for earlier years.
There are 3 plugs on the back on the lefts side (left side if you are
looking at the back of the radio, the antennae input is at the top right
corner). Plug A (top left), plug B (middle left), plug C (bottom left).
The pins are numbered in the following manner (pins in the radio, looking at
it from the back):
Plugs A & B:
8 6 4 2
7 5 3 1
Plug C:
10 8 6 4 2
9 7 5 3 1
Pin No. & function:
Connector A (Grey)
1. Telephone Mute
2. Amp Trig
3. Handle Remote Control
4. Battery Plus. Permanent
5. Remote (auto ant.)
6. Illumination
7. Acc.
8. Ground
Connector B (Brown)
-not used-
Connector C (Pink)
1. Rear Right +
2. Rear Right -
3. Front Right +
4. Front Right -
5. Front Left +
6. Front Left -
7. Rear Left +
8. Rear Left -
9. Woofer +
10. Woofer -
There is also a round plug to the right of the 3 rectangular plugs that is
for the CD changer connection. A Clarion changer will plug right in and
allow the stock head unit to control it.
If anyone wants the wire colors that correspond to the previous info let me
know and I will dig that out also.
Scott Monico
97d90st
----------
From: Shane Ballensky[SMTP:roverme@sunset.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 05, 2000 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] cd player wiring ?
FOR 1994 DEFENDER 90 RADIO WIRING
Battery +(always hot) = purple
Ignition switched + = orange w/white stripe
ground = solid black
light switched + = red w/black stripe
Speakers:
Left rear
+ = black w/ green stripe
- = black w/blue stripe
Right rear
+ =black w/white stripe
- =black w/ brown stripe
Left front
+ = black w/yellow stripe
- =black w/orange stripe
Right front
+ =black w/pink stripe
- =black w/red stripe
Shane
----------
I put this info together for someone and I thought it would be good to add to
the faq also. It goes along w/ the info already in the faq, from me, about
the radio pin outs.
These are the pin outs for the radio amplifier on the 97 d90:
There are 2 connectors on the amp, an 8 pin and a 14 pin. they are laid out like this:Scott Monico
14 pin w/ plug connector catch to the top:
____
14 13 12 11 10 9 8
7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Pin functions:
1 = + (from fuse box w/ 15 amp fuse)
2 = + (connects to same wire as pin 1)
3 = amp trig from radio
4 = LR+ (left rear speaker) (black/green)
5 = RR+ (right rear speaker) (black/white)
6 = LF+ (left front speaker) (black/yellow)
7 = RF+ (right front speaker) (black/pink)
8 = ground
9 = ground
10 = not used
11 = LR- (left rear speaker) (black/blue)
12 = RR- (right rear speaker) (black/brown)
13 = LF- (left front speaker) (black/orange)
14 = RF- (right front speaker) (black/red)
8 pin w/ plug connector catch to the right:
8 6 4 2
7 5 3 1
Pin functions:
1 = RR+ (right rear from radio)
2 = RR- (right rear from radio)
3 = RF+ (right front from radio)
4 = RF- (right front from radio)
5 = LF+ (left front from radio)
6 = LF- (left front from radio)
7 = LR+ (left rear from radio)
8 = LR- (left rear from radio)
----------
From: Chris "V"[SMTP:tchris@freewwweb.com]
Sent: Friday, February 18, 2000 6:38 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] sound systems
The list generally doesn't like the "sound system" subject I guess it's not masculine enough for them . But I myself like to drown out the highway road noise, and make the extended drives to long range off road spots more entertaining. And this takes much more than the stock system. First get a good Amp (I put mine under the passenger seat) Then do away with the rear speakers, and concentrate on just the fronts. I put in Rockford Fosgate Kevlar poly cones 6.5"(you'll have to cut a little plastic) Any speakers you pick (do it by your ear and the sound you like) make sure they are a poly cone , any paper cones will get killed in a D90 environment{heat, cold, moisture, thrashing about, water crossings....} And put JL tweeters in the upper door panels. I replaced my head unit with a remote one that every thing from the 10 disk CD changer to the stations and volume could be controlled from the drivers seat with out taking your eyes off the road. This keeps the system itself protected from rain , dust , mud, dog etc.. (1/2 my system is under the passenger seat the CD changer I put in a custom built center console . If this doesn't cut it and you like to feel your music, and have music to dine by on trails and camp outs you'll have to throw in a sub . I built a custom box to house a 10" JL acoustics sub that fits behind the seats and goes from wheel well to wheel well (same height so it blends in) . At this point when events get boring or your stuck in traffic others tend to hear non-existent jets flying over head and other entertainment ;-). My system is out of service right now but when I'm done with other mods it will get put back together in a more water proof surrounding (electronics don't like poly woggs !) If you want good advice and good prices from a Rover/audio nut call Greg Feldman 516-289-5021
Chris "V"
------------------------------
Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:34:23 -0000
From: cfberlin@hotmail.com
Subject: [D90] Okay gus I think I went a little over the top here
I was minding my own business peeking at the wares at the local Soundtrack
store when suddenly these salespeople help me down and made me get the most
insane sound system I have ever seen in a defender. (The amps, crossovers
and distribution blocks take up an entire tuffy rear security box)
Everything is soldered to avoid vibration/impact problems and we mounted the
sub enclosure to the rear door. Other than the sub box nothing is visible
to the naked eye (except when that naked eye starts watering from the
volume). I'll put some pictures up when I get a chance as the design seems
to give the advantages to wonderful sound without taking away any of the
ruggedness and off road capability. The remote mount CB also turned out
well. I ended up getting I Uniden 520 and ran remote speaker and Mic
connections through the tuffy center console for ease of use and security
considerations. This really added a little more uniqueness to my D90. With
the multiple thefts I have read about on this list I am tempted to get an
alarm but I guess the only thing that would help would be one of the Alpine
"radar" based alarms as I like to leave the door tops off most of the time.
I'll let you know how this works out.
Maybe this is a little different than the average off road performance based
posts but I thought some of the audiphiles might be a little interested.
The system was completed for about 3500. I know that is a little steep but
the sound quality is worth it. There are viable alternatives for close to
the same sound quality that are significantly cheaper. For example the
Boston Pro 6.5 Speakers (450/pair front and rear) could be replaced with
bostom rally series (150/pair) at the sacrifice of a little mid range
performance. The subs could be 100 less each if not going with infinity
perfect 10s and the rf 800a4 amplifier at 500 could be a lot less. The
primary cost issues are the nature of the installation, ie off road
proof/water resistant and the head unit (Alpine 7941 Completition) and 6
disc AI net changer could be substituted for a lot less. After 2k I just
said hell with it and went whole hog. As far as dating goes it took an hour
to get the college girls that work at the soundtrack store out of the car so
things look pretty good so far.
Carter Berlin
95 D90
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 19 Jul 1999 12:26:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Robert D. Leggiero" rdl@nomurany.com
Subject: Re: [D90] Plastic molding
> A lot of the custom car audio guys do a good job with plastic covered
> fiberglass. May not be soft like molded plastic, but they can cover it in
> vinyl. This would look the same, but not have the dash board feel.
I did what you describe in my 90. I used 1/4 plywood to build the
speaker boxes. Mine house 8" coaxial MB-Quarts. I made the grills
from a grill kit. Basicaly a plastic frame with fabric streched
over it. Behind the speakers I cemented foam covers (like a hat)
to seal them. I also put some polyfill sound damping stuff in the
foam 'hats'. Looks like wads of cotton. This is very important to
getting good sound. You dont want any air leeks behind your speaker.
I covered the boxes with the same vinyl used to cover
dash panels. The vinyl is held on with contact cement. Put contact
cement on both the wood and the back of the vinyl. Let both sides
set. Wet both sides with mineral sprits. Position the vinyl on
the wood. Work fast, as soon as the mineral spirits evaporates,
the contact cement bonds and wont budge. You can heat the vinyl
with a heat gun to soften it up to stretch on curved surfaces.
I carpeted the inside of my Tuffy box using the same method.
Used carpet that they cover the outside of speaker boxes with.
Rob
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 12:48:48 -0400
From: Cliff gfai@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: [D90] Okay gus I think I went a little over the top here
I installed the factory rear door subwoofer with its own amp as well as
a Clarion 6 disk changer inside the console. Its louder than I expected
and clear as well! Total cost with labor was under $1000. I have driven
my D90 from FL to MT last fall, and the radio was all I could hear,
completely drowned out the road/wind noise in my soft top. I think that
LR or whoever designed the rear sub really put some thought into it as
it fits and looks great, and sounds fantastic. At the last dealer
sponsored event, you could hear my Jimmy Buffet CD's cranking for all to
enjoy at lunch (and we were pretty spread out)
Cliff in FL
'97 D90 ST
P.S. I have girls constantly checking out the D90 even w/o the stereo on
here in FL