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From: Gomes, David [SMTP:david.gomes@us.gambro.com
Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 11:21 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Turn Signal Rate
"....I have no bad bulb situations but the signal flashes at a rate of about
2-3 times per second....."
One way to troubleshoot is to turn on the 4-way flashers and then have a
look around the truck. Is one of the bulbs dimmer than the others? If so,
that's the one causing the high flash rate. First try swapping the
offending bulb with it's mate on the opposite side of the truck. If the
problem (dim glow) moves with the bulb, then the bulb is the problem. If
the problem stays put, then the problem is probably in the socket or wiring.
If the problem goes away, it was probably a bad connection to the bulb.
It's a good idea to smear some dielectric silicone on the bulb base and
socket innards for all of the bulbs. This is generally true of any
electrical connection that sees as harsh a life as they tend to on LRs.
Good Luck!
-Dave G.
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From: Scott Monico[SMTP:smonico@monico.com]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 9:56 AM
Subject: [D90] RE: Wiring for brake lights
> Saturday one of my brake lights went out. Went to autozone, got a
> replacement, no big deal. After installing the new bulb the other side
> decided not to work also. Now the new bulbs will only work on for the
> running lights. I cannot get the brake lights to work. Checked the fuses,
> I think I checked all connections, and cannot figure this out........
On my 97 when ever I replace the bulbs on the rear I also replace the bulb holder. The problem is usually the connection between the bulb holder and the wiring harness. The connector pins corrode away at that point. Another problem is after a while the connector on the wiring harness side gets trashed from the pins in the bulb holder corroding. It was only recently that a LR offered a replacement for just the individual plug (harness side). Previously (before last summer) you had to buy the entire rear wiring harness at around $600! If anyone wants the part #'s for the wiring harness side replacement plugs I can dig them out and post them.
It is a good idea to use lots of dielectric grease on all the rear electrical connections and carry spares of each bulb, bulb holder, and connector at all times. They fail regularly and the parts (other than bulbs) arent available anywhere but dealerships or rover supply places.
Scott Monico
97 d90
Scott later added:
Dave,
I pulled out my plug spares and found they dont have the typical part #s
on them. I will give you what is on the sticker.
Brake light wiring harness plug = LRN-00-0006 Taillamp repair kit 6/00/00002
Turn signal light wiring harness plug = LRN-00-0005 Taillamp repair kit 5/00/00002
Each "kit" has the plug that is on end of the wiring harness with about 4"
of wire sticking out to splice into harness and some wire splice
connectors. The dealership recommended soldering the wires to the wiring harness.
Also needed are the bulb holders; Brake light = XBP100190 and Turn signal light = XBP100180
The bulbs can be picked up at NAPA or sim. store.
There is also a rubber boot (i dont have the part #) that is available
from LR that you install over the wire then solder on the new plug then when
the wiring harness is connected to the light assembly the boot is slid up and
sealed to the back of the light assembly. I choose not to get these as if
it ever leaked or got a cut in it it would hold the moisture in around the
plug and I wouldnt know it. Also, it makes replacing the bulb a bit
difficult. I decided to not get the boot and just use lot of dielectric
grease.
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From: Chris "V"[SMTP:tchris@freewwweb.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 16, 2000 3:12 PM
Subject: [D90] Lights out cured
Finally found the problem of all the lights on the drivers side of the D90
out. The symptoms I had were no dash lights, no door or headlight warning
buzzers, and drivers side front rear and side lights out. Fuse 11 (lower
right hand side in the '97 fuse block under dash) blows the second the
lights are turned on. Traced the schemetics to the engine compartment behind
the heater where the wiring harness has a 6 pin multi plug. Took an
alligator clip to the battery and put voltage directly to each one of the
pins one by one to see what was not lighting up (or to find the shorted
wire) the only one that would not work was the drivers brake light. Went
back and for the 10th time took the connector, the rubber boot, et al apart.
Sure enough two of the wires were fused (melted together) it was almost
impossible to see with the naked eye, unless you knew their was something
wrong some where, and without finding it your running with out lights.) Cut
out the bad spot lengthened the wires, put it back in place, replaced the
fuse and Wahl-la , everything is back to normal. Using this technique saved
me taking the 1/2 the truck apart to find where the wires were shorted.
Chris "V"
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:58:46 -0400
From: "Dirk Tischer" dirk@rust.net
Subject: [D90] Fuses
The right (or is it left) running light 5 amp fuse prob. is part of the
whole D90 experience. It turns out that the one side 5 amp fuse, runs
three forward lights (the one side), both rear running lights (both sides),
and two of the side marker lights, and if you plug a trailer in without a
relay also all the trailer running lights.
It was easier to just run the one wire to power up both sides lights in the
rear, than run two wires. This is pretty common on US cars as well, but a
hassle when you under rate the power pull. I guess when LR added the side
lights for the US market they didn't up the juice or fuses. The best
answer is a relay for a trailer, but I've done limited runs with a 7.5 amp
fuse and had no problems.... no fires anyway.. disclaim disclaimer
disclaim.
Enjoy,
Dirk
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Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 21:07:16 EST
From: Lrcb40@aol.com
Subject: Re: [D90] 97 D90 tech note. - Rear Lamp Waterproofing
I was at my local dealer to get another (4th or 5th) replacement bulb holder (under warranty) and they showed me the new fix. It is a long molded rubber (condom?) 'gaiter' which fits from the wire in back of the connector and is clamped round the lamp body. They have to remove (cut off) and fit a new loom connector after slipping the gaiter on. I have mine in for the retrofit in Feb. I'll post the result. Anyone had theirs done yet? You can get rid of the splash shield etc now!!
Andy Nichols,
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 1999 10:32:40 -0400
From: "childress, barnett" childress_barnett@emc.com
Subject: RE: [D90] Tail Lights on 95 and 97 D90's
>Has anyone tried drilling drain holes in the bottom of their lenses. I
>drilled 1/8" holes in the bottom of each rear lens and haven't had a
>blown bulb in over two years. (also I have no rust as I coated the
>electrical contacts with dialetric grease)
I've done the same on my 95 and have never had another problem in 4 years. I
check and re-grease the connectors once a year.
Barnett
----------------
From: Jeff Gauvin[SMTP:jeff.gauvin@lsil.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 11:58 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] Rewiring blinker lights on 94
"William Campbell" wrote:
>I am getting the rockware bumper, but I suppose I will no longer have the
>blinkers in the bumper. Can anybody give some info on how they have
>rewired the blinkers lights to the lower running light?
I ran into the same situation with my '94. I was going to get real fancy with a bunch of relays and load resistors to make both lights (pairs) function as both turn indicators and running lights, but in the end I got lazy and bought the East Coast Rovers turn signal relocation kit (replaces the bottom signals). I might be wrong, but I think just re-routing the turn signal to the existing lower lamp causes your signals to flash too quickly; you need to use a higher wattage bulb.
The ECR kit is expensive for what you get, but it is plug-n-play and blinks at the correct rate. It looks like they just take an off-the- shelf LR part (which already has the correct wiring harness), install the correct bulb, drill through the mounting holes (NAS assemblies mount differently from Euro lamps), and paint the interior backing plate black (or maybe it is black from LR?). They also give you installation instructions, which ain't rocket science, but one tip that makes things easier (that I might not have thought of), is to remove the headlight. The big hole gives easy access to the wiring harness, especially on the passenger side.
I also swapped out the upper amber lights for clear lights. This makes it look and function like European spec Defenders (if you like that sort of thing).
FWIW - the ECR kit and the clear lamps do not have D.O.T. markings, and, strictly speaking, may not be street legal. They also have a different seal arrangement. The stock lamps have the dome glued to the back plate, and the bulb assembly locks in from the rear. The replacement units have a removable dome and rubber seals. Bulb replacement requires disassembly (which can be done w/o opening the hood), whereas I think the stock bulbs can be swapped out from the rear w/o removal from the vehicle (but in a practical sense removal makes things easier). Six of one, half dozen of the other.
Jeez, I'm feeling wordy today...
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90
__________________
From: Marc-Andre Leger[SMTP:ma@mlink.net]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 10:29 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Rewiring blinker lights on 94
I did it with a pair of cutters... just simply snip away and connect the flasher positive to the bottom position light, tape away the old positive (in case you ever need it again...)
(Don't forget to put correct wattage bulbs in to get the signals to flash at the correct rate....ed)
Marc
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From: Kevin Kelly
Sent: Friday, November 17, 2000 2:06 AM
Subject: RE: Auto Bulb Site
The site below is interesting:
http://www.sylvania.com/prodinfo/carapp/
It lists all the bulbs for most cars.
Kevin Kelly
----------------
Date: Tue, 06 Jul 1999 18:20:02 +0000
From: Craig Reece craigreece@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: [D90] Tail Lights on 95 and 97 D90's
April and August (on newstands now) Four Wheeler has an article (p. 96 in
Aug. issue) about waterproofing, and p.96 shows the LED tailights (round) mfg. by
Grote - red and amber 4" round. 800-532-1301, 812-273-1296, or
http://www.grote.com.
(they're in Madison, IN.)
Craig Reece
'95. white softop