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Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 20:14:03 -0500
From: "John C. Hinkle" defender110@email.msn.com
Subject: Re: [D90] fighter pilot swiches
Chris \"V\" wrote:
> Hey during the Twist off I saw two sets of fabulous switches. One by ARB and
> the other was what appeared to be jet fighter pilot switches with flip top
> protectors on them . Any one know of the source of these?
Pegasus or Summit Racing.
Chris Hinkle
Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net] later added:
Cutler-Hammer make mil-spec switches (8500 Series MIL-S-3950) in all
varieties (one,two,four pole, rated 20 amp at 28VDC), Cost about $20 for
one pole, $26 for 2-pole, $41 for 4 pole). Also Mil-spec Switch guards. All
available from Newark Electronics (1-800-463-9275).
Call and they will send you a free catalog! this stuff is on p954 of the
'98 catalog I have.
Doug
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From: Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 20, 2000 3:00 PM
Subject: RE: [D90] Re:Solenoids vs. Relays/Dual Batts
At 12:20 PM 1/20/00 -0700, Dave G. wrote:
>Do you have a good reference for relating AWG to current? I assume it would
>really relate to power, like wattage, the wire can handle.....
check out :
http://www.alphawire.com/pages/tech_368.htm
(Clarke Williams added this reference: http://www.alphawire.com/pages/371.htm )
However, for a real easy chart which relates AWG, current capacity and circuit length for two situations (10% voltage drop - i.e. non-critical voltage - and 3% voltage drop - electronics, etc), check out the West Marine catalog
Doug
'95 Red Defender 90 5-speed
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From: Mensa Marialberto[SMTP:marialberto.mensa@officine-galileo.finmeccanica.it]
Sent: Friday, January 21, 2000 1:09 AM
Subject: [D90] wiring
........ in the electricity shops here (Italy) wires are quoted in copper area in mm^2, which makes very easy deciding the size to be used: assuming a 8A / mm^2 as a viable continuous use current density, just divide the load power by 10 (instead of the actual battery voltage, this will give some margin) and that is the current to be used to size the wire. or, simpler and even more precise, divide the load power by 100, and that will give straight the mm^2 needed.
Alberto
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From: Gomes, David ( david.gomes@us.gambro.com )
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 11:11 AM
Subject: [D90] Electrical Connectors
Rob offers the great advice: "....Make sure all connections are crimped and soldered to insure that they will stand up to the conditions these cars live in...."
For connectors as good or better than any already on your truck, consider the Weather-Pack connectors from Packard Electric. I don't have a web site, but Clarke Williams sent me a PDF file detailing the construction of these connectors. There are already a lot of them on the Defender. They are the ones with triple-lip rubber seals where the connector comes together, plus rubber seals around each individual wire entering the connector. If I was really out to do it right.......
-Dave G.
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From: Alan Dobbs[SMTP:gulfcmt@flash.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 9:10 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Aux Power Receptacle
Between 2 cell phones camcorder and chargers we never have enough outlets.
Here is what we mounted in the interior to solve this problem
http://www.yellowdefender.com/accessories/interior/outlet_plug/index.htm
For the exterior we mounted a slick waterproof one.
http://www.yellowdefender.com/accessories/exterior/12v_outlet/index.htm
It was purchased at West Marine and it is great for our work light and
camcorder to save batteries.
Alan Dobbs
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From: Bruce R. Bonar[SMTP:brbonar@wenet.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 25, 2000 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Aux Power Receptacle
Jeff Gauvin wrote:
> A project I've had in the back of my mind for some time now
> is to build a replacement panel for the flasher/clock/outlet
> console in the middle of the dash.........(clipped by ed.)
Some where I've got a picture of my revised dash, if I can't find it I'll
take another.
I used a piece of aluminum, powder coated black, as a face plate along the
length of the dash after removing all existing devices.
From left to right are:
ARB master switch
rear locker switch
front locker switch
ready air switch
low pressure gauge
high pressure gauge
voltmeter
lower fog light switch
upper fog light switch
upper driving light switch
rear spot light switch
hazard switch
aux. outlet
From the ax optima in under the drivers seat there is a fused feeder to two
fuse blocks under the passenger seat. All relays and ax fuses are under the
passenger seat. Map light, gps, cb, & ham are all hard wired and provided
with disconnect fittings so they can be removed.
In order to fit in the switches, which all have indicator lights, and gauges
the bottom of the dash space had to be raised. This actually makes it more
difficult to lose things in that space and the loss of space has not been
noticeable.
It looks good and I can still add a few more gauges when I get around to it.
Bruce B