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Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 13:33:21 -0700 (PDT)
From: David Rosenbaum rosenbau@u.washington.edu
Subject: [D90] Re: Tie Repair Kit
Dear Hollis,
The kit is a SAFETY SEAL
made by:
North Shore Labs Corp.
PO Box 568
Peabody MA 01960
1-800-888-9021 or 508-531-3044
fax 508-532-3509
It is rugged, beautifully made, self-contained in a form-fitted plastic
box, and mine came with 30 plugs (enough for a lifetime of 'unlucky
flats'!) I believe that I paid abt. $40-45 from Safari Gard, maybe less. But for
the one time that I've needed it so far, $40 is cheap. I don't know
Safari Gard's current price nor what it costs right from the company.
Best wishes,
David Rosenbaum
Nathan adds:
I know that Rover Accessories sells the Safety Seal Kit as well, but I
belive they were only asking about $25 for a kit. I would've been able to
give you a review as they were going to let me use one to plug up a tire
on 21 Road at the T.O. but it turned out I ripped open the sidewall :-(
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From: Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net]
Sent: Friday, January 28, 2000 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Siping
At 07:02 AM 1/28/00 -0800, Clarke wrote:
>Siping good for wet streets and snow/ice. The tires will wear much
>faster, especially off road.
There are very mixed opinions on this! If well done, and only on the center lugs of the tire, you may even have better wear, as the sipes appear to keep tire temps lower! (this was reported in one of the off-road magazines a while back after doing some testing of siped vs. non-siped). However, if you sipe the outer lugs, there may be a tendency to bust off chunks if you are doing rough rock-crawling....Another point is that it all depends on the siping job! If the guy cuts the sipes unevenly or too close together, you will have uneven wear problems.... I have my (Geolander MT's) tires siped (center lugs only), and cannot see any excessive wear.
Doug
'95 Red Defender 90 5-speed
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From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2000 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: Wheel balancing
>Hi Rob,
>I have another question for your expertise.
>How do the dealer shops balance wheels? Do they use the center hole or the
>lug holes as the primary locator on the machine?
>
>For the past couple years I've been thinking that using the lug holes was
>the right way to do it. But today, I get a note from a guy who says this
>is true of the old series wheels, but the modern alloys should be centered on
>the center hole.
>
>Which is the right way to do it for LR alloys?
>
>Are the new rangie and disco2 wheels with the smaller lug pattern done
>differently?
David
We almost always use a lug adapter to balance wheels. The one that we have
was sent to us by Land Rover and is designed to accommodate both lug
patterns. Steel wheels must be balanced with the lug adapter as
the centers are not always punched dead center. The alloys can be balanced
satisfactorily using a centering cone, however, best results are achieved
with the lug adapter. Note that there is a centering cone used with the lug
adapter to get it close but the final centering is with the lug pins.
Rob
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From: Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net]
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2000 11:08 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] GPS and tire installation
At 08:58 AM 2/7/00 -0500, you wrote:
>Also, just ordered the Geolander MTs (285, didn't want to make the leap to
>35's yet). Anything I should look out for in the installation. I seem to
>remember a thread about balancing machines earlier . . .
Congratulations!
Balancing is a slight problem, as they are fairly heavy. Most shops have
balancing machines which are centered on the wheel's center hole. This is
not ideal, and you really need to have 'em balanced on a machine which
mounts through the normal mounting studs/nuts, as this gives a true center.
Unfortunately, due to the odd bolt pattern of the rover, these are not easy
to find, other than at the LR dealers!
Doug
'95 Red Defender 90 5-speed
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Date: Wed, 21 Jul 1999 09:25:21 -0500
From: Chris Velardi tchris@freewwweb.com
Subject: Re: [D90] Power Tank Alternative thoughts
I use a substance know as "Equal" tire balancing . On a 35" tire the
dealer (usually only large truck tire dealers) should start with 4
ounces of powder per tire. That's right 4 oz. ! (not the 1 lb. or more
of lead for the same tire). Drive the rig at previously problem speed
(vibration felt) If you still feel vibration they should continue to put
the powdered substance in one ounce intervals and test driving until
they balance out. (mine used ounces each but were severely out of
balance) I used Freedom Tire in Plaistow NH (not close to home but the
only place I could find on a Saturday to do it. They also do Hummer
tires (I guess that's pretty rare expensive special tools needed)
The nice thing about Nitrogen is that it uses the same fittings ,
regulators, etc. as helium. So if you cant find any balloon supplier
selling something or stores getting out of the helium balloon business
get rid of their equipment all the time (although they are not as fast
as a normal duel gauge regulator). What I did to make gauge and
regulator quick disconnect and connect was to have a nylon hand
tightener (from a balloon set up ) put on a high quality dual gauge set
up . (so you can see how much is left in the tank, and regulate how much
pressure is coming out , this also lets you use pneumatic tools). As a
side note regulators on any high pressure tank should never be left
connected to the tank during vehicle travel. Even not combustible tanks
become rockets when sharp blow knocks off the regulator. Another option
I am planing on doing is to take a alloy Scuba Diving tank (rated for
4000. psi ) and swap out the 2000 rated steel tanks. The only problem I
have found with this setup is it costs around $200 to $300 for the high
presure regulators vs/ the 70 -$80 2000 lb regulators. Time to find
diving friends ;-)
Chris "V"
On 8/24/00, Chris added:
I still use the "Equal" internal tire Balancing powder. Still treating me
very well. Especially when the tires get chunked and are caked with mud and
on one else can drive with out cleaning their wheels. The only time I had a
problem with it was when I blew a tire off the bead deep in the muck of the
Peanut Butter Cup (filling the wheels and tires with a few lbs of mud)
Needless to say I couldn't have remounted it on the rim anyways without a
through cleaning with non existent clean water and drying , but the powder
was also lost . Now I carry an 6 oz bag(of Equal powder) to dump back in the
tire if it happens again.
Chris "V"
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From: Charles Morris[SMTP:d90@jps.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 06, 2000 11:32 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Rubicon! ( trailing arms )
Sorry shane, that last message I sent was for Tom.
Tom, you've seen my trimming before right? I think so.
If you check out my old website (havent touched it in over a year), I have
the basic directions and descriptive pictures on how to do the trim.
http://members.tripod.com/calrovers/trimming.htm
The only difference in the trimming I would do is that I wouldonly takeabout
an inch off the fender flairs (less mud thrown around) and would have used a
blade to cut them.
Q - you can steal this info and put it on your site if you would like.
Charles
Doug Marbourg[SMTP:marbourg@lanl.gov] added:
The one thing I notice is the two rivets on the outside of the flair (just
under the side indicator lamp). Is this a 95' up phenomenon? The reason I
ask is that on the 94's they don't exist (at least mine), and it might be
misleading to the 94' owners that the cut piece should be riveted to the
outside of the tub.
When I did mine, I riveted the cut piece to the INSIDE LIP of the tub wheel
well. Hence the rivet is hidden by the flair itself. It's a very positive
connection and you don't end up with rivets visible on the outside of the
tub.
Just trying to keep us folks (that trim) honest with the original
manufactured configuration...
--D