----------
From: childress, barnett[SMTP:childress_barnett@emc.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 18, 2000 6:20 AM
Subject: RE: [D90] Replacement Top
>Over the weekend while refitting the full top on my 95 D, I
>noticed several tears and rips in the original top. Most of the wear I can
>live with, except while I was fitting the softtop to the top of the
>windshield the top ripped more. So now I have a pretty big rip where the
>cloth attaches to the plastic that goes into the slot at the top of the
>windshield..... Do I have any repair options?
Brian,
I just fixed a 4" rip in my 95 soft top. I put the truck in the garage so I
could warm up the top and get it to stretch. Then carefully sewed the rip
back together. I used a seam sealer (for waterproofing tents) to waterproof
the repair. Seems to be holding up okay.
Barnett
----------
The D-90 Source Bulletin Board: Soft Top Window's Looking Bad?
Posted by Dave Smith on Friday, May 09, 2003:
I just got in the mail today a plastic window cleaning kit from www.janvil.com .
It is a three part kit. It removes big scratches, then little ones, then a
polish. It works great. I spent about 1 hour and my windows (97 Defender) look
as good as new. With shipping $26.90 for the entire kit. I had a few big
scratches and I was shocked how they came out. Below is there description of the
product.....Dave
JV-320 JANVIL PLASTIC RESTORE SYSTEM (3 Pack)....
Complete system includes our JV-323 Heavy Duty Plastic Scratch Remover,
JV-322 Light Duty Plastic Scratch Remover, and JV-321 Plastic Shine. This
system is designed to remove scratches, haziness, and abrasions from
most plastic and acrylic surfaces.
----------
The D-90 Source Bulletin Board: Soft top windows blurry
Posted by Craigd on Monday, May 19, 2003:
I have had good luck with the mequiers sp?? plastic window cleaner and polish.
It does not take out the scratches but it does take the haze out of the windows.
It is a two part system and you can buy it at any auto parts store. I am
intrigued by the stuff Dave Smith posted above however.
----------
From: chevyk594@aol.com[SMTP:chevyk594@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2000 10:19 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Softops and 72 degrees ...
[to install the soft top after cold weather's hit - Ed.]
I know it's to late now but always put the top inside your house for at least
2 hours before you install the top. You can even put it in the shower with
hot water. This will reduce the amount of stress on the top when its cold.
Your top will last much longer too.
Thank you
K.C. Carpenter
Doug Aitken[SMTP:jdaitken@earthlink.net] added:
Another trick: Put it on loosely (without cinching anything down, or
zipping the window zippers on both sides), then put your heater on full
blast for about 15 minutes. Provided it is not WAY below zero, you should
get enough heat to finish the job
Brian Bonner[SMTP:enigma90@mindspring.com] added:
Yup, and add a blow dryer while installing it to keep it warm and easy to
stretch.
----------
From: ArtV70@aol.com[SMTP:ArtV70@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2000 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Bestop Softop woes- LONG
Bill,
I may be one of the people of whom you're referring. I have a 95 D90 that
is on its 6th (?) top, maybe more. I really have lost count. They have all
been replaced under warranty. I believe most of the problems were a result of
my Defender being a bit different from the one Bestop used as their model for
sizing - a problem we all have seen at some time if we have made changes from
stock. All my tops had fitting problems that resulted in huge gaps or torn
seams. I'm not sure what year yours is, but my problems went away when LRNA
finally put a '97 top (with the reinforcement poles) on my '95.
I was very persistent and made several calls to LRNA when the dealer appeared
to stop caring. Eventually I was contacted and told the LRNA rep for the
Colorado area would take a look at my 90 when he was making his rounds to the
dealers in his territory. He did and promised that he would have Bestop
custom make one to fit if the '97 version didn't work. It did, and he let me
keep my old top and windows as a bonus for my trouble. Not bad for LRNA huh?
Sad thing is the tops really aren't expected to live more that 5 years I
think.
I (almost) look forward to the day when I can put a real top on from Badger. Good luck,
Art Vigil
1995 D90 #2620 (I'd trade 2 tops for 1 badger top)
----------
From: Alan Ottley[SMTP:alan_ottley@3com.com]
Sent: Saturday, October 14, 2000 2:34 PM
Subject: [D90] Leaking (wind) Soft Top Fix
I finally got around to documenting my cheap fix for the air leak behind
the windows on a soft top.
I stuck it on http://www.roverworx.com under "how to". I've been using it since
I first got the Rover and it has worked out very well.
Just FYI, in case you had not already found a fix.
Alan
----------
From: Brendon Loveday[SMTP:brendon@bmol.com]
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2000 12:29 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Top
> I just boght a 94 Defender. There is a gap between the back of the side
> window sills and the front edge of the canvas top. It look like there
> should be some kind of vertcal support there, but there is nothing pressing
> the top to the back of the window. Suggestions?
Doug-
This is a common problem on 90 soft tops. The problem lies within the poor fit
of the top. There is a vertical support that was offered in 97 that is
supposed to help but I purchased them and don't think their worth a damn. Your
best solution is to zip tie pipe insulation to the top as to fill the gap(An
economical solution from Q posted on the d-90 source) Or use weather stripping
for a threshold that has a sticky back and stick it on the window to fill the
gap. Or just grin and bare it.
Brendon
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Jul 1999 15:00:35 -0400
From: "Brooks, Anthony" BrooksA@executiveboard.com
Subject: RE: [D90] Soft Top Window Care
> I got a bunch of scratches from trees & such on the plastic side/rear
> windows of my '94 D-90. Is there a reasonably effective way to buff
> them out or otherwise eliminate them?
Meguire's makes a kit for plastic windows with a polish and a cleaner in it.
I think it ran about $20. Works very well, and can be ordered from thier
(800) number which is on their web page.
http://www.meguiars.com/
Tony
94 D90 with clean windows
----------
From: Jeff Gauvin[SMTP:jeff.gauvin@lsil.com]
Sent: Monday, March 27, 2000 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Snap removal
>What is the best way to remove the snaps on my '94 ?
>I'm converting to rails for my Badger tonneau cover...
Drill the heads of the rivets. Some will spin -- angle
the bit to 45 degrees or so and just keep chewing at it.
When you drill through the head the bit may catch the snap
and spin it (messing up the paint), so pay attention. The
old snap holes will be covered by the rail, so if you mess
up, nobody will ever know... :-)
I riveted the rails on instead of using screws.
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90
Jeff later added:
>From: Badger Coachworks badgerman@capecod.net
>Well spoken Jeff! The rivits are the way to go, but install them every 4"
>instead of 8".
I just used the standard spacing, but doubling up sounds
smart; there is significant loading on the rails.
Just remembered: there was very little clearance inside
the hole at the rear-most position on the rails; had to
short rivets whereas I used mediums everywhere else.
It's all coming back to me now -- I also had to overdrill
the holes in the rails to accommodate the rivets.
Jeff Gauvin
'94 D90
How does the badger top compare to the fiberglass top?
Very favorably! It is surprisingly leak free even in horrendous downpours, at least as draft-free as the hardtop, and the door seals work great. It is noisier, though, with some flapping/drumming at speed (though not too bad), but what do you expect -- it *IS* a soft top :-)
It probably doesn't hold in heat as well as the hardtop, but I can't verify this -- I swap the hardtop back on for the winter. Don't want to subject the canvas to freezing temps and snow/ice to prolong it's life. Removal is pretty quick: under 10-minutes all by myself. Re-installation takes longer as you have to get everything lined up and tensioned, but all by myself I can do it in about 45-minutes, but with practice or two people could probably do it in under 20. The spring/fall top-swap takes me the better part of a day.
Overall I'm quite happy with the top. If you need any more info or detailed pictures let me know.
Jeffrey J. Gauvin
----------
From: Bill Ritchie[SMTP:billnsandi@kingwoodcable.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 29, 2000 1:40 PM
Subject: [D90] Badger Coachworks Magic
I just installed my Badger Coachworks Surrey top this afternoon (high here
in Houston was about 88 degrees). I have to give a plug to Chris Law and
his company for producing what is essentially a work of art.
After a dreary winter (well, never actually even froze this year in
Houston) with the vinyl Bestop full top on, it was such a pleasure to take
it off and install the Surrey. The difference between the canvas and vinyl
makes such a difference in the appearance of the vehicle as a whole. The
thing is as tight as a drum, and is by far the quietest top I have run on
the D90 (full soft, no top, bikini, surrey).
Chris, keep working that magic with your sewing machine. I am saving my
pennies for a full canvas softop, even though I now have 3 full vinyl
Bestop softops in the garage (one old, two new).
Bill Ritchie
'97 D90 ST AA Yellow "Tonka"