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Date: Wed, 07 Jul 1999 02:03:27 -0500
From: daitken@sugar-land.anadrill.slb.com (Douglas Aitken)
Subject: Re: [D90] Backcountry Spare Parts List?
>OK, so far on our list of spare parts needed for a 3-day trip we've got...
>1) Fuel
>2) a spare D-90
> and...
>3) beer
>Hmmm, you all live very UNcomplicated lives, don't you?? ;-)
>glad to hear any other ideas - got a couple of weeks yet before the trip.
Nadir: Put it down to the holiday spirit! I was hoping you would get some
help on this, other than the above suggestions.
Actually, the first two are, i would say, pretty essential! If you are
intending to do any type of serious off-roading, don't go by yourself! One
stuck vehicle in the wrong place can be very serious!
I presume you are aware of the human requirements and have a good stock of
food and (even more important!) lots of fluids. Not soda pop, but good old
H2O! (might need it for your radiator too!).
Everyone you ask will give you a different list of what you really need,
but you must realize that it depends on
(1) Where you are going
(2) How long you are going for
(3) What you will do there
(4) What other vehicles are going with you.
If there are a number of similar vehicles in the group, it may be possible
to "spread the load" regarding spare parts, recovery equipment, etc.....
If one vehicle has a winch, the other does not absolutely hacve to have
one; One compressor may be enough; one spare tire each, rather than two per
vehicle... etc. Hoiwever, be coordinated in this and check before leaving,
to avoid the "weren't you supposed to bring the jack?" scenarios when you
are in the center of deathe valley.
Here are a couple of sites you may want to have a look at:
for general equipment
http://www.4x4now.com/4whtbcr.htm
better still, in pictures!:
http://www.4x4now.com/bb0198.htm
or trip planning (these people are close to you. give them a call!:
http://www.4x4now.com/sf1097.htm
This one is for hiking (and is in Australia!) but can give you a couple of
ideas you may forget!:
http://www.bushwalking.org.au/equip.html
As for D90-specific parts, you may need nothing, but if you do not carry
basic spares, you WILL surely need one! I believe that LR even sell a "kit"
I carry a complete set of belts (mine's a '95, multiple belts!) and hoses,
along with special hose tape for quick repairs. Also spare oil filter and
oil. All the obvious electrical stuff: bulbs, fuses, wire, crimping tool
and assortment of crimpable contacts, terminals, sockets, etc, multimeter.
A really good tire plugging kit. All sorts of fluids 'n' sprays (brake,
steering, transmission, coolant, WD40, contact cleaner, etc.) dielectric
grease, locktite.
However, it is a waste of time carrying spare parts and equipment if you
are not ready and able to use them! Training is needed to go off-road!
Nothing serious, but a day or two with experienced folks will save you a
lot of frustration when you try to do it on your own!
Good luck!
Doug
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Date: Sun, 03 Sep 2000 21:25:06 -0400
From: "Alan E. Foster" alan.foster@vt.edu
Subject: Re: Which Automotive Tools?
Here's the list of what I dragged to Tellico -- didn't leave us wanting for
anything (we could have left half of it at home, but if you've got the
space ...); it could probably stand some upgrading. The items with
asterisks got used while we were there.
*gas cans
spare tires
grease gun
dremel
*socket set
*rags
*lok-tite
rtv
*go-jo
*cotter pins
*air tank
*jack, stands
soldering iron
*camera
*flashlight
*batteries
*snatch block
*clevis pins
wire
*tarp
oil
oil pan
*duct tape
*electrical tape
*teflon tape
*hi-lift
shovel
*video camera
tape measure
*steel wire
torque wrench
starter fluid (ether)
multi-meter
calipers
*twine
u-joints
heat reflective tape
*cb
*cell phone
fire extinguisher
anti-freeze
*distilled water
*first aid kit
*knife
*leather work gloves
*brake fluid/clutch fluid
*yank straps
*chains, static ropes
*lashing straps
*hammer, screwdrivers, all the tools you've got
*cordless drill (with bits and drivers)
*trash bags (for garbage, and as seat covers)
*cooler
-Alan
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Date: Sun, 3 Sep 2000 21:46:42 -0700
From: "Alan Dobbs" gulfcmt@flash.net
Subject: RE: Which Automotive Tools?
This is a good subject since it seems like no matter how many tools you
carry when you break on the trail you do not have the right one.
You spend half the time listing to the wife complain in why you did not
bring that special tool and then you spend the other half asking around to
borrow one.
Over the years here is the tools what I call specials that are a must. (I am
not including miscellaneous items like fuses, electrical tape, etc since
Alan E. Foster has a great list composed & matches what I typically carry.)
Here they are:
* Snap ring pliers to remove the axle flanges
* 1-1/16, 1/2 inch drive socket for removing the wheels
* 12 point 13mm deep socket for removing the brake calipers (It may be a
14mm 12 point I forgot)
* 30mm socket for tighten the trailing arm nut and also the pinion & drive
flanges on the T-case
* Vice Grips (small needle nose & large regular set) used for everything, I
actually fixed a Series II Disco's shifting linkage with these & he drove
from Hot springs, AR back to Houston TX to have the dealer fix
* 9/16 or 14mm swivel socket for removing the drive shafts
* Cheater pipe to be used as a extension for removing stubborn bolts (worst
case the Hi-Lift jack handle can be used)
* Wire cutters/stripers these are self explanatory
* Telescoping magnet for retrieving dropped bolts
* Large #3 Phillips screwdriver for removing the brake drum on the T-case
* 3/8 & 1/2 inch drive torque wrench
* Large hammer or a small sledge hammer, need I say more
* Pry bar it goes side by side with the sledge hammer
* Assortment of punches and cold chisels
* Multi-meter or a simple 12V-testing probe for finding electrical problems
* Tire plug tool and kit
Most common wrenches & socket sizes are 8, 10, 12, 13 (1/2), 14, 15, 17, 19
(3/4), 24, 27, 30.
The best way to figure out what tools are needed is next time you work on
your Rover (or hang out in the LR service department) keep track on what
tools are being used.
What I do is when I service the D-90 I use the tool bag I keep in the
vehicle. Then if I need something out of my large shop toolbox it goes into
the D-90 tool bag instead.
Of course this is a catch 22 situation, because you end up carrying so much
gear you weigh down the D-90 but you got to have it.
David G needs to make a FAQ on the D-90 source for these and Alan E.
Foster's list along with others.
Believe it or not these items can make the difference between getting back
to camp/town and being stranded and camping out unexpectedly :)
Alan Dobbs
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Date: Mon, 4 Sep 2000 13:37:34 -0400
From: "Brian Bonner" enigma90@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: Which Automotive Tools?
Since you did such a good job, I will just add a couple of things.
> * 12 point 13mm deep socket for removing the brake calipers (It may be a
> 14mm 12 point I forgot)
Remember combination wrenches can be used on areas requiring deep sockets(if
you cannot afford one)
> * 30mm socket for tighten the trailing arm nut and also the pinion & drive
> flanges on the T-case
> * Vice Grips (small needle nose & large regular set) used for everything,
I would add a couple of sizes of Crescent adjustable wrenches(yes there is a
difference)
Clench wrenches
Robo grip pliers (For thos times where you don't have the right size or you need two of the
same size and don't have two.)
A multi screw driver for the console
> * 9/16 or 14mm swivel socket for removing the drive shafts
I have always used Combination wrenches, but this would be nice. but stick
to metricm those nuts are soft and 9/16 will muck em up.
> * Cheater pipe to be used as a extension for removing stubborn bolts
Please yes! But get a pipe to fit over your 3/8th's rathet handle that is
about 12 inches long. Trust me you'll thank me when you do the starter.
You can't get the High lift handle under the truck in most places.
While we are on starters, Thye use an allen keyed bolt. Yup you heard me! I
do not remember the size I have an 7, 8 and 10mm Allen sockets in my kkit. I
think it is a 10, but you should have a complete set of both metric and
standard allen wrnches so use them to size it then buy the socket. You will
need it and a good breaker bar/pipe to get the starter out.
Set of Torxs sockets. For things like the roll cage.
> * Wire cutters/stripers these are self explanatory
Set of electrical crimps. Not necessary but nice to have for good trail
repairs. you can ofcourse wait till you gte home. Then you will need them or
you can solder and heat shrink(highly recommend)
Crimp pliers
> * Telescoping magnet for retrieving dropped bolts
Try and get one with a mirror or a second telescoping mirror
> * Large #3 Phillips screwdriver for removing the brake drum on the T-case
A impact driver set. this is a small hand tool you hit with your 3lb
ssledge. When you strick it it turns whatever is attached. This comes in
handy for all kinds of stubborn bolts you can get it on, and needed for
removal of the doors with a #3 phillips bit.
> * 3/8 & 1/2 inch drive torque wrench
Nice, but not necessary. Keep that at home; they are delicate.
But you should ahve it for your work shop(I am a hack I have never used
mine)
> * Multi-meter or a simple 12V-testing probe for finding electrical
problems
> * Tire plug tool and kit
a GOOD tire repair kit.
> Most common wrenches & socket sizes are 8, 10, 12, 13 (1/2), 14, 15, 17, 19 (3/4), 24, 27, 30.
Add 1, 1 1/16, 7/8, 11/16, 15/16, 11, 20, 22, 36 wrenchs/sockets
I also carry assorted extra bolts and nutts. You never know. I have used
them twicw so far. There is allot morwe I carry too, but I think it si
covered on my check list on my Website
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Date: Mon, 04 Sep 2000 13:36:29 -0700
From: Jeremy Bartlett bartlett@slip.net
Subject: Re: Which Automotive Tools?
Brian Bonner wrote:
> > * 12 point 13mm deep socket for removing the brake calipers (It may be a
> > 14mm 12 point I forgot)
>
> Remember combination wrenches can be used on areas requiring deep sockets(if
> you cannot afford one)
It's 13mm. If need be for places like the driveshaft for access use a grinder
to take some of the side metal off the spanner/wrench.
> > * 9/16 or 14mm swivel socket for removing the drive shafts
> I have always used Combination wrenches, but this would be nice. but stick
> to metricm those nuts are soft and 9/16 will muck em up.
I always (well almost always) use 9/16th instead of 14mm and I do it probably on
average once a day using air. I find a long 6pt socket on about a 4" extension
the best way to get in a them if you can rotate the shaft. ALWAYS carry spare
aero nuts; the shallow not the deep. Although you might think the deep provide
more "meat" in practice they are harder to get at inside the U-joint and the
shallow work better. Plan on the things stripping/rounding.
> Set of Torxs sockets. For things like the roll cage.
On the '94/'95 you're only going to use a T55 for the cage.
> > * Multi-meter or a simple 12V-testing probe for finding electrical
> problems
Don't use a powered test light or a low impedance meter or you might create
electriconic problems.
Jeremy
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Date: Wed, 6 Sep 2000 09:15:25 +0100
From: Jamie jamie.austin@austingroup.co.uk
Subject: RE: Which Automotive Tools?
Check out http://offroadexperience.com/wcb/bulletin6.htm for a list of what
WCB reccomend.....
(I like the 'rainsuit' at the end!!...is that to wear INSIDE when the roof
starts to leak?)
Jamie
'96 D110 Tdi
'92 D90 V8i
'85 D90 Tdi