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From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2000 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Clutch Problems
>Driving the '94-90 the other day in about -10C weather and everything is
>running fine. Leave it outdoors for the night, and in the morning I start
>it up and let it warm for about a half hour. I get into the truck and try
>to engage first gear, but have absolutely no function with the clutch....
>Is this clutch problem common? If so, then what is the problem, and
>any possible solutions?
Peter,
Sounds like the hydraulics are at fault. If there is hydraulic fluid(brake fluid) coming out of the bellhousing drain hole then you probably lost a slave cylinder. If there is no leakage there, chances are that the clutch master cylinder is out. Most common is seal failure. Land Rover sells seal kits for both. Try part number BHM7063L for the slave cylinder and part number 8G 8837L for the master cylinder. The seal kits are about 20% of the cost of a new unit. Rebuilding is easy and effective as long as there is no bore scoring. The slave cylinder is easy to R&R and requires no adjustment when refitting. The master cylinder is a stinker to remove. The hood must come off, the brake master cylinder pedal box must be loosened, and the clutch master cylinder and pedal box must be removed as an assembly. Once on the bench the master cylinder can be removed from the pedal box. There are several adjustments for pedal height and freeplay which will have to be reset when reassembling--a workshop manual is a must. Mind the brakelight switch when reassembling as it is easy to break. When either repair done you will have to do a complete system bleed. This is most easily accomplished by sucking the whole system into a vacuum with a vacuum brake bleeder and then pressurizing the system with a pressure bleeder. That way the system goes from a vacuum to a solid column of fluid without any air. If you do not have access to this equipment--be prepared for a lot of frustration as the system will trap a lot of air and takes a very long time to bleed manually. Good luck.
Rob Dassler
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From: alan_ottley@3com.com[SMTP:alan_ottley@3com.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 15, 2000 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] Opposite clutch problem on '94
>I am having the opposite problem that Russ is having. I barely have to
>push the clutch pedal in to disengage the clutch. Is there a way to
>adjust this point of engagement at the master cylinder? Or, do you think
>that my master or slave cylinder is going out? I need to find out what
>the problem is soon so this problem won't cause my throughout bearing to
>die. Thanks for the help.
Zach,
If you look at your clutch master cylinder, you'll see a black metal plate with
6 screws in it just in front of the reservoir. Inside that is an adjuster that
you should be able to change your engagement point with. On it, there are 2 nuts
that are locked together, the shaft going through the engagement lever, and a
locking top nut. The 2 nuts on mine are all the way screwed down to the bottom
of the shaft (towards the reservoir). Check and see where yours are, and perhaps
they will allow enough adjustment for you. The clutch pedal adjuster is on the
front (towards front of vehicle) of the whole assembly (bolt with a lock nut).
That's about all I can say, from my experience.
A.
---------------------------------
I have a how-to FAQ page in my personal web site for both upshifting and
downshifting double clutching. It includes a description of that is
happening inside the gear box.
The quickest way to get there is to go to my Land Rover topic INDEX page
and use the double clutch link.
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman/LR/index.html
gets you to my Land Rover contents page. There is a link to the LR
INDEX page near the top and a link farther down to the FAQ contents page.
Either one will get you there.
Sorry, it's a frames web site so I can not just give you a URL and get
you to the complete page.
TeriAnn
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From: Yucca Patrol[SMTP:amobley@prpharm.com]
Sent: Friday, August 18, 2000 11:18 AM
Subject: [D90] Re: Bleading the Clutch system?
> Has anyone bled the clutch system?
Follow the line from the master cylinder down to the slave cylinder.
The hard line turns into a flexible rubber line and then a "looping"
hard line which enters the slave cylinder Next to the point where the
line enters the slave cylinder, there is a nipple which will release
the fluid. Just give it half a turn or so. Best to loosen it up until
it drips, tighten so it does not drip, and then put a piece of tubing
on it and run it down into a container so that it does not pour all
over your chest when you drain it
Andrew
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From: Chris J. Carden[SMTP:chrisc@prognet.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2000 12:59 PM
Subject: [D90] Removing Clutch Master Cylinder
It's possible to do change the CMC without removing the hood, wing, pedal or moving the brake box. I'm not sure it's any QUICKER -- perhaps with a second set of hands. I chose this approach based on a "disturb as little as possible" theory.
A full range of metric wrenches is necessary: a stubby wrench and a long one. Definitely twelve-point. I also used a new type of ratcheting wrench that Sears is stocking. This was very useful for removing the lower bolt on the cylinder flange by wrenching inside the pedal box. A flex-head 1/4" drive ratchet would also have sped things up.
I found that removing the lower cross bar from the roll cage and putting the hood all the way back against the windscreen gave as much access as removing it. Bungie cords around the upper cage will hold it back securely.
CJC
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From: alan_ottley@3com.com[SMTP:alan_ottley@3com.com]
Sent: Thursday, July 13, 2000 8:41 AM
Subject: Re: [D90] Clutch master cylinder rebuild
Dan,
It is a joy to do as you will see. You need to take out all the bolts that hold
the clutch pedal on, and remove the bolts that hold the brake pedal on. The
brake needs to be done, because you will need to "scoot" it over a bit to be
able to twist the clutch pedal assembly to get the pedal through the footwell
slot. Best to take your hood off before hand.
Disconnect the two hydraulic lines to the clutch master cylinder and curse a bit
as you try to pull it out. I had someone help from inside, to twist the pedal as
I was trying to free it from above.
I assume that you have a rebuild kit. The one that I got from Rovers North had
the seal missing, so I had to put it all back together again, and I ended up
buying a complete master cylinder from the Rover dealer, cause I was NOT going
to pull it any more times than I had to.
It is a pain. If I recall, the master cylinder assembly was about 130 bucks,
which is cheap relative to the pain involved in getting it out and back in.
Once the cylinder is rebuilt (or replaced), scoot the brake cylinder over again
and twist the clutch master cylinder/brake pedal assembly back into it's home.
Make sure that the brake lines are "bent" back into position. Bolt it all back
up.
With the newly rebuild master cylinder, you'll need to prime it. I put fluid
back into the reservoir and then pumped it a bunch of times before I had any
pedal feel. I think that if you put some fluid into the holes before you put the
hydraulic lines back on, this could be minimized.
And that's about it.
As a humorous note, my clutch master cylinder was leaking really bad, and it
would cause my foot to slip off of the clutch pedal in traffic, so I wrapped an
old white T shirt around the pedal to stop the slipping. When I took my Rover in
to have my 36" Swampers installed, the folks at the 4 wheel shop thought that
because I was a "Rover Owner", that I had put the T shirt on the pedal so that
the installer wouldn't get my clutch pedal dirty! Heh heh. We do have a
reputation.
Alan
From: Jamie Austin[SMTP:jamieaustin@fsbdial.co.uk]
Sent: Tuesday, January 04, 2000 4:53 PM
Subject: [D90] Clutch change
When you install the new clutch parts,make sure that you put the small plastic clip (576203 - staple) in place.that stops the thrust bearing (FRC 9568) from falling off of the input shaft when you lift the gearbox up to the engine,it's bloody annoying to get the 'box just into position and the bearing falls on the floor....again! Been there,got the T-shirt!
Just apply a small amount of copper grease to the moving joints on the release arm.don't get any on the friction plate.
I think that the gasket that was mentioned (forgotten who posted it...sorry whoever it was!) is the front cover assy. which incorporates the oil seal. (FTC 3696). BTW...I'm presuming you have a V8? if it's a Tdi then these numbers will mean nothing to you! let me know as I have both.
Leave the tranny in one piece.disconnect both prop shafts,Speedo cable,handbrake from seatbox,exhaust centre section.floor panels and centre transmission cover and the crossmember.(support the gearbox first! on a crane preferably) undo the bellhousing bolts,put a trolley jack under the sump to support the engine and pull the gearbox away...sounds easy! it's not hard at all.just mind your fingers! I'm not sure if the US LR's have any other wiring connected to the gearbox or running over it (apart from the reverse light and Diff Lock light wires.)
Tip....if you do change the bush in the end of the crankshaft you may wonder how to get the old one out? find a solid bar that just fits into the old one...(same diameter as the gearbox input shaft,funnily enough) pack some grease into the bushing,about half full.insert the shaft and hit the end sharply with a hammer.the grease will force the bush out.it works too!
If you decide to remove the gearbox totally from your rig,as opposed to just dropping it on the floor,then you will have to take off the main shift,and possibly jack up one side of the LR to drag the gearbox out....it depends on how big your tyres are and how much lift you have! unless you have a pit to work in! Also it yours is a Tdi then you can put a different friction plate in.the plate from a D130 is slightly bigger in diameter than a D90 or D110 type.only by 5mm or so,but it gives for more surface area.that's what I run in my 90 DTI.the cover plate is the same for all models.I'm not sure if the V8 has a similar set-up for D130's.
Jamie Austin
'96 D110 Tdi
'92 D90 Tdi
'85 D90 V8i
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From: Jamie Austin[SMTP:jamieaustin@fsbdial.co.uk]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 3:07 AM
Subject: [D90] (Fitting the) Wading plug
1) Crawl under the rover.
2) find the 'bell housing' (the large aluminium bit that the clutch is in.bolted onto the gearbox)
3) find the small (1/2") threaded hole. (on Tdi's it is at the 6 o'clock position looking from the rear of the vehicle) on V8's it is at the 6 o'clock position,but it faces the 'front' of the vehicle as opposed to looking down at the ground)
4) clean all the mud and oil that has leaked from you rear crank seal! ps keep your eyes away or shut!
5) insert the wading plug and turn clockwise
6) repeat step 5) until it is tight!
7) crawl out from under the rover,dust yourself down and put on a brew!
Jamie Austin
'96 D110 Tdi
'92 D90 Tdi
'85 D90 V8i
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From: Dave Gaboury[SMTP:dgaboury@GreatPlains.com]
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 3:34 PM
Subject: [D90] Re: Wading plug
The 95's (at least most of them) don't have wading plugs while the 94's do. My LR dealer actually suggested that I add one.
Dave Gaboury
Truck: 1995 Land Rover NAS Defender 90 #SW027/500
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From: Robert Dassler[SMTP:roadsiderob@hotmail.com]
Sent: Monday, March 20, 2000 9:28 PM
Subject: Re: [D90] '95 D90 Clutch problem
The LT77 has a sealable bellhousing--insert the wading plug in the tool kit
before entering deep water, remove when through. Do not leave in for an
extended time as the bellhousing is not 100% sealed and some water will get
in. The R380 has only the slot you found--no threaded hole for the plug. The
transmissions were updated--the tool kits were not.
Rob