VDO Gauge Parts/Installation/Problems Merged Threads

[TDI Guy]

thanks Ryan, anyone have the #'s to the other guages?

[DJ Menasco]

thanks Ryan, anyone have the #'s to the other guages?


Randy

Have a look here (http://www.d-90.com/faq/Interior/IntInstruments.html) If you don't find what you're looking for let me know and I'll get you the information I used to replace all of my OEM gauges for VDO Vison.

DJ

[TDI Guy]

thanks DJ... I forgot about that.

[DJ Menasco]

thanks DJ... I forgot about that.


No worries. Just be sure to double check the part numbers on some of them. A few are out of date.

DJ

[TDI Guy]

Yeah, I can't figure out which is the right fuel guage to use. What a PITA

[RyanS]

Randy,

This may not help since the 90 fuel level sender seems to be different than the 110, but my sender resistance range is 9-325 ohm. I used Datcon gauges so I don't know what VDO gauge will work with your sender, but try to confirm the sender resistance range and get the corresponding gauge. On my fuel gauge I still had to wire in some resistors to get it to work right.

[Giffstone]

Hey Now

I've had my D90 for about eight months and still absolutely love it. It's a marked upgrade from the series 2A especially in the fact that the heat actually does something and I can use it for everyday life. However I am looking for a logical upgrade for my dashboard lights because at night I can't see anything. If anyone has solved this problem please let me know. Thanks


Drew

[DJ Menasco]

I'm assuming your speaking of the dashboard meters, e.g speedometer, water, fuel, & tach? If so I recommend ditching them for some VDO gauges. They're a direct drop in. You'll have to modify some wires but its nothing you can't do in an hour or two.

If you're interested I can post some pictures of mine and provide you with some part numbers.

Regards

DJ

[snuffer]

DJ......post those pictures!!!


And #'s please.

[artm]

I think he means the lights themselves, not the gauges.

When you flip the dash light switch to high do they improve? I have no problem seeing mine in low - except for the clock. On high they are actually too bright.

Now, could be that the 97's were an improvement over yours but I doubt it. Then again, I'm always amazed that everyone complains about these.

You can find direct replacement LED's for these bulbs but they're too bright for my taste.

[Billakris]

Do the VDO guages contain their own lights?

Ide like to see pics and the part numbers too. How much where all of them if you dont mind me asking?

[Giffstone]

Quite right Art, I'm asking for possible suggestions to make the guage lights brighter ( I've removed the little green cover from the tach bulb and it's now bright enough but the speedo, fuel and temp guages are different and even trying much brighter bulbs seems to make no difference. I'd love to see the VDO pics. Thanks everyone

[TDI Guy]

The VDO gauges is one of the best upgrades you can do on the inside of your truck. THey look 200% better.

Get them here cheap www.egauges.com/vd2_main.asp

Either the vision or the Industrial Black series work well. I have a few Of the industrial black guages if someone is interested. PM me

[dmarchand]

Seems silly, and I don't know '95's well. But on the '97, their is dimming button on the lower left hand console below the steering wheel. That doesn't help?

[Hans]

The VDO's are a great upgrade, and one of the few options for a matching speedometer that doesnt require modifying the dash.

I'm currently using an autometer Cobalt short sweep coolant gauge, and was originally going to go with that set. Nice LED backlit numbers, and they have a programmable fuel gauge available as well as programmable speedometer.... though the speedo is a size smaller at 3 3/8" and you'll need to add something to fill the gap from the factory 4" speedometer. I plan on doing a whole new dash panel anyways, so no big deal really.

But now they have the Phantom II series which also has LED backlit numbers but a nicer looking face, and I may go with that instead if they come out with the programmable fuel gauge.

-Hans

[artm]

Yes, it helps me as I keep it on low. On high I get too much reflection off the side window.

Look, the stock gauges can be bright. Perhaps your bulbs aren't getting enough juice? Connect a direct line to a couple of them and see if there's a difference.

However, if you want accurate readings (especially coolant gauge) and consistent look then change them all. ISSPRO also makes a good looking line. I have their EGT gauge with a white face and it's great. Go to egauges.com

[Trevor Tarr]

As I recall, my 97 didn't have the dimming switch. But behind the dash was the socket where the switch would plug in. I cut out the plastic over the switch blank, bought a switch, and voila ... two settings of brightness. But I don't remember whether what I started with was bright or dim....

[Hans]

LOL with the factory bulbs, covers and switch it's not 'bright' and 'dim' ..... it's 'dim' and 'really dim'

If too much light is a concern, than don't go with the autometers, they are really bright and since they are LED's they can't be dimmed.

-Hans

[DJ Menasco]

DJ......post those pictures!!!


And #'s please.

Sorry about the delay, while I don't have any working pictures available (D90 is in the shop) I do have some of the installation. I have left a list of the part numbers for the VDO gauges below. As for swapping out the lights I guess you could do that but I'm not sure where to find a bulb that possesses a higher wattage nor am I aware of the listed wattage. Personally the VDO's are far superior and less expensive in the long run as any accessory or part is easy to find.

I purchased all of my senders and gauges from egauges.com (http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Vision&Cart=). Also all of the gauges are VDO Vision Black Series and are 2 1/16” in diameter except for the Speedometer which is 4-in.

Electronic Speedo: 85MPH (#437 154), however these might be out of production by now so you'll have to use the 120MPH (#437 155)
Speedo Sender: GM Sender (#340 011)

Temp Gauge: 250F/150C Range (#310 105)
Temp Sender: #323-417 (M16x1.5).
Tachometer: 6K RPM (#333 158) Just use the same wire from your alternator.

Fuel Gauge: Vision (#301 105) Again just use the same wire from the sender in the tank. There is no need to swap that out.

Electrically the only modifications that you'll have to perform are to establish new connections for the programmable speedometer and exchange the OEM light sockets for the VDO sockets using the same wires. The other issue is the Speedo sensor. You can do it yourself or take it to a speedometer-shop and have them install it. I had a shop do it for about $50.

I’ll post some of my install pictures later tonight.

Regards

DJ

[snuffer]

Thanks DJ.

[DJ Menasco]

No problem. Here’s how I did my gauge swap. First a couple of notes; I wanted to ensure a good connection without soldering so all the connectors are crimp only with adhesive lined heat-shrink. The latter is something I regret doing because the chance of moisture build-up on the terminals is slim, thus the typical Nylon or PVC barreled connectors should suffice. Plus, if I wanted to be that anal about it I could have just used dielectric grease to prevent water ingress. Also, I did this about two years ago some my memory of the install isn’t precise so be aware that I may have neglected some steps.

Some of the tools and supplies you’ll need are listed below:
• Number 2 Pozidrive (I recommend the ACR version from Snap-On)
• needle nose pliers
• wire stripping/crimping tool and/or diagonal cutters
• 0.250” 10-12 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for doubling grounds)
• 0.250” 14-16 AWG female spade connectors; typically blue (for all other connections)
• 0.025” 12-14 AWG adhesive lined heat shrink (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Butane Torch (only if connectors aren’t insulated; optional)
• Metric open ended wrench (I’ll have to check the size)
• 50:50 water/antifreeze solution
• Shop towels and a basin to catch & clean up antifreeze

Ok, the first thing you want to do is remove the gauge cluster. With the #2 Pozidrive remove the two screws from both sides of the fascia and the two on the bottom. Gently pull the cluster out and immediately reach behind the speedometer and remove the mechanical Speedo-cable. Its really in there so give it a good pull and don’t worry you won’t break it as long as you pull it directly away from you. If you pull to the side you risk snapping the drive flange.

Now that you have it out you’ll noticed that the cluster is tethered in three spots. Two directly plug into the idiot light cluster and the other is for the gauge cluster. Remove all three (harness plug pic 1). Now you should be able to remove the cluster. If not make a note of any remaining connections and label them with tape (main pic 1).

Speedometer : Removing the speedometer is easy. Just unscrew the threaded nuts and disconnect all wiring. The directions that come with the Speedo are self explanatory. Since there are a few different ways to install it you should follow the directions that illustrate the “Hall Sensor.” It’s pretty easy. Just remember to leave some slack from the sensor cable so you can remove the gauge cluster with ease in the future.

Speedometer Sensor : I didn’t do this and instead had a local Speedometer shop do it. But you will have to affix 0.250” 14-16 AWG male connectors to the wires from the Speedo sensor.

Fuel and & Water Gauge : The fuel and water gauge are the easiest to swap out since their electrical configurations are the same (pic 1). First thing you need to do is find the green wires attached to both gauges. There should be two per gauge; one with a clear PVC boot and the other with a clear rubber boot. The connector with the rubber boot is male and must be swapped out for a female connector (water & fuel pic 1). Remove the male spade from the black on green wire (rubber boot) and replace it with a female. Do this for both gauges. Next remove the plug from the light socket on both gauges and replace each wire (two per socket) with a female spade connector. Lastly you need to replace the main ground. Since you have a ring terminal on the OEM connection you’ll have to replace it with the larger 10-12 AWG female spade connector.

Now that you have the proper connectors you must reinsert them into the new gauges. With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The solid green wire (PVC boot) is positive terminal and the black on green (Rubber boot) in the “negative” terminal (fuel pic 1 & 2). The same goes for the water gauge (water pic 1 & 2). The main ground is the terminal on the bottom. The light merely snaps into the back of the gauge.

Position the gauge and tighten the screw-loc to secure the gauge in place and you’re done with these two gauges.

Water Sensor : The water sensor must be replaced in order for the VDO gauge to read the temperature correctly. The OEM doesn’t support the OHM range required so you’ll have to pop the hood and swap it out for a new one (water sensor pic 1). The sensor is located at the engine block terminus of the upper coolant hose. Follow the upper hose down to the block and you’ll see the sensor to the immediate right (facing the vehicle) of the passenger side rocker cover (water sensor pic 2 & 3). Prepare to remove the sensor by placing a basin at the bottom of the sump along with some towels to prevent antifreeze from making a mess. You’ll also want to insert a dry rag under the sensor so that you may plug the hole to prevent too much antifreeze from escaping you coolant system.

Remove connection from the sensor. Now with a XX-mm wrench (I’ll have to check on the size) remove the sensor and quickly insert the rag into the outlet. Replace with the new sensor until snug (water sensor pic 4). The new sensor will require a 14-16 AWG ring connector. Remove the female connector and apply the new one. Unscrew the black nut on the new sensor and install the sensor wire. Now is a good time to apply any dielectric grease to the post. Screw the nut back on and you done. Clean up the antifreeze and top off your coolant system with the 50:50 mixture or other desired proportion.

Tachometer : The tachometer requires more adjustments than the previous two. First remove all the wires from the OEM tach. There should be one grey on white & one green both with black PVC boots, two black (one is has ring terminal and the other a black PVC boot) and the other two are from the light and should be red and white on red both connected to a black PVC boot (tach pic 1). Remove the black PVC boot from the red & white on red wires & the black wire. Also remove the ring terminal from the other black wire. Replace both the red and red on white wires along with the 14-16 AWG female connectors. Combine both black wires with the 10-12 AWG female connectors. Only the green and grey on white wires should remained untouched (tach pic 2).

With the gauge loosely in the cluster (with screw-loc) attached the wires to the following positions. The ground wires (dual black) should plug into the negative terminal (pic 2). The green wire with black PVC boot should go into the positive terminal (pic 2). The grey on white wire with black PVC boot should insert into the terminal marked “2” (pic 2). There shouldn’t be a terminal at position 1. Plug both of the red and red on white wires into the new light socket and insert the socket into place and you’re done (tach pic 3).

Now you’ll not in my pictures there is no screw-loc to keep the gauge in place. I ultimately swapped in a screw-loc, but originally went with the OEM fasteners as seen. Either is fine. The last thing you need to do is tell the tach what engine you’re monitoring. On the back you’ll have to select the keys according to the directions that are provided with the gauge (pic 3). I think (but am not sure) it goes up, down, up. I’ll have to double check.

With everything installed simple plug the three harnesses back into their positions and attach the gauge cluster. Turn on the engine to make sure everything is operational. If you’re tach isn’t working then it’s probably because you didn’t configure the three switches in the correct orientation. Other issues might arise from a poor ground connection or you’ve mistakenly swapped a terminal. If you still can’t troubleshoot the issues just email me at medaniel@msn.com and we’ll try to figure out the issue.

Follow-up Post:

More pictures. Just run your mouse over it to see which one it is. They're all labeled according to the notes above.

DJ

Follow-up Post:

And some more.

Follow-up Post:

and the last one.

[Flagg]

I agree with Hans - the factory switch is for 'dim' and 'really dim'.

Right now I can read the left few gauges fine............but the lightbulb for the speedo has falling out and is laying behind the guage. When removing the guage cluster, there does not seem to be an obvious place to attach the lightbulb to the speedometer (as there is with the other gauge). Perhaps that has fallen out as well...........

This is something that I need to focus on at some point, because it would be nice to see the speed at night..........

Flagg

[boshea]

Hi Bert,

I have owned 3 Defenders...a 94 and 2 95's...both of them have had the same problem. I remember someone saying that you could change out the bulbs. However, given the Rover's fickle electrical system...not sure if that would work. I don't really want to change out the gauges. I would prefer to keep the vehicle stock and also have too many other little side projects that I would rather spend the money on. I can barely see my gauges...even on the higher setting.

Any other recommendations would be appreciated...

Thanks guys,
Brian

[artm]

At the risk of beating a dead horse...

1. Connect 12V directly to the bulb lead and see if gets brighter. If so then there's s resistor somewhere in the circuit dimming these lights which you can bypass or remove.

2. My owner's manual lists the instrument bulbs at 2W. The overhead light at 10W. You're telling me that 1/5 the overhead light capacity isn't enough per gauge? Of course it is!

3. I see most of you complaining have 94/95 models. Again, my 97 ligts are just fine. Now the 110 is dim but doesn't bother me. That has no dimmer switch so looks like it's a similar setup to the 94/95's. I'll bet the bulbs are smaller.

[Flagg]

I think the bulbs in my 95 D90 would be fine - IF I could figure out how to get the speedo blub back behind the speedometer. I must have lost a clip or something that keeps it held in place.

The blub laying on the bottom of the tray is not an ideal set up. The guages on the left seem to have some sort of clip to hold the blubs up - and I can read those guages at night fine..........

Flagg

[Hans]

Here I was thinking I was the only one with that problem on the lower speedometer bulb and having no idea how to re-attach it. The '97 Defenders do have a totally different speedometer, which is probably why they don't have the same problems as the 94-95 trucks.

I think I'm just going to finally re-do the entire dashboard sometime this summer, I've wanted to replace the whole thing with more useful lights and gauges for a while anyways.... maybe some nicely stained walnut or something and get rid of most of those un-used idiot lights. Add in an oil pressure gauge. left and right turn signal lights. All the good stuff.

-Hans

[Grover]

I have searched this site on oil pressure gage installs and I still have a few questions. What I want to do is replace the oil pressure idiot sensor located on the oil pump housing with an electronic pressure sender with dual contact, one for the idiot light and one for the gage. I would like to use a VDO gage described on this site: http://www.bus-boys.com/bbvdo.htm (http://www.bus-boys.com/bbvdo.htm)



Any experience/advice with this?

Cheers...

[JimC]

Yes, get the VDO sender and swap them out. If you want a warning light you'll have to run an extra wire I think.

I dont know the size threads for your sender - a search on this site will probably turn up the part numbers.

[Grover]

Yes, get the VDO sender and swap them out. If you want a warning light you'll have to run an extra wire I think.

I dont know the size threads for your sender - a search on this site will probably turn up the part numbers.
So have you installed a VDO oil pressure gage on your truck? Did you install it the way I plan to? If so, does the sender fit where the idiot sensor was located? Where did you mount the gage? I plan on buying the plastic dash part from RN (it's used to re-locate the radio from the cubby box to the dash) and mounting it in the middle of the dash.

Cheers...

[Hans]

Previous posts have informed me (and my own measurements have confirmed it) the thread size on the stock idiot-light is #5 O-ring. I finally picked up an adapter yesterday at the local hyrdaulic shop, and will be installing tomorrow. Most car places will NOT have that adapter, you need to go to a specialty place that deals with hydraulic hoses or something similar.

-Hans

[JimC]

I'm not giving up a part number because I did the install on my Tdi - I dont know if they are the same. I'm running 6 guages - EGT, oil pressure, and coolant temp next to the speedo. 2 fuel guages and the clock in the center dash where the NAS hazard swith, Rangie clock, and cig lighter used to be.

The sender threaded right into the block where the idiot light switch came from. I guess you will have to run another wire, but thats EZ.

[D90user]

Hey Jim, If you don't mind could you post the part # for the 300tdi oil pressure sender?

[Grover]

I'm not giving up a part number because I did the install on my Tdi - I dont know if they are the same. I'm running 6 guages - EGT, oil pressure, and coolant temp next to the speedo. 2 fuel guages and the clock in the center dash where the NAS hazard swith, Rangie clock, and cig lighter used to be.

The sender threaded right into the block where the idiot light switch came from. I guess you will have to run another wire, but thats EZ.
Yup...that's what I want to do. I want to run a wire from the sender to the gage rather than plum a hose from the pump housing to the gage. I think that a mechanical gage has it's benifits, i.e. no electrical gremlins giving false readings, but the I would rather not add any additional connections that could leak.

Thanks for your input...

Cheers...

[mgrgpg]

Hans,

Can you let me know where you picked up the adapter? I am in the process of doing the same. I also want to add a temp sender, and ideas how to do both at the same time?

Thanks,
Mark

[JimC]

I got all my stuff from egauges.com - I have a tendency to spell "gauges" wrong, so check it.

[Hans]

Mark, I got mine at Moreland hose in Oakdale. It's on the south-side of sunrise highway, in the same shopping center as the taxidermy place and the adult shop.

They were out of stock on the #5 to 1/8NPT that I needed, so I had to do it via two pieces. But they do carry #5 adapters in 1/8 and 1/4 npt.

-Hans

[Grover]

Can anybody with a D110 respond and/or show some pics were the oil pressure sender is located on the thier 3.9 engine?

Are the oil pump housings the same on a D110 w/3.9 as with a D90 w/3.9? If so, I want to install the pressure sender in the same location.

Cheers...

[needsaD110]

I just bought an autometer oil pressure gauge for my 97', Can someone do a write up on their install in a 4.0 or 3.9 and if you can take pics that would be even better

[Grover]

Here is my gauge installation write-up. It was a fairly easy job. One of my goals was to make the install look as “stock” as possible. I found that the VDO Black Cockpit Series gauges are very close “appearance wise” to the stock gauges and are "back lit" as well. The only difference I found was that the VDO Cockpit Series have red needles and the stock gauges have white needles. Also, a BIG THANK YOU goes to Mike H. for the radio insert!

Below is the parts list:



Parts:



VDO Oil Pressure Gauge

Source: egauges.com

PN:310 041

Range: 0 ~ 80 psi, 0~180ohm, 7psi warning

Price: $25.75



VDO Sender:

Source: egauges.com

PN: 360 009

Range: 10~180ohm, dual contact for sender and warning lamp

Price: $33.54



Adapter Fitting:

Source: Parker Hydraulics

PN: 5-1/8 F50G-S

Price: $11



VDO Voltmeter Gauge

Source: egauges.com

PN: 332 041

Price: $25.74



Panel:

Source: egauges.com

PN:PAN001

Price: $16



Radio Housing:

Source: Rovers North

PN: RNH512

Price: $38



License Plate Inserts

Source: Pep Boys

Cost: $3



Green Dash Bulbs

Source: Pep Boys

Cost: $3





1) Removed pressure switch.

2) Assembled adapter fitting to sender. Do not use tape. Be sure that it’s tight.

3) With the o-ring (on the adapter) lubed with oil, fasten sender to oil pump housing.

4) Run a 16gage wire from the sender to inside the cabin. I used the wiring loom that runs along the passenger side of the engine that passes through the bulkhead near the fuse panel. Refer to pic.

5) Fasten warning light wire and gauge wire to the sender.

6) Fasten ground wires to the fuse panel plate (16gage).

7) Run the ground wires and the sender wire up through the dash. (I used a snake…works well)

8) For power, tap into cigarette lighter, for the gauges and the lights. The dash light wiring (18gage) was “Daisy Chained”. Just follow the wiring diagram that comes with the gauges.

9) Press the licenses plate inserts into the vent slots (I did this to avoid drilling into the dash)

10) Drill the holes in the radio insert for mounting

11) Drill a hole into the cluster cover for the wires. (I hated to do this, but I did not know how to route the wires otherwise.)

12) Replace the clear bulb in the gauges with a green bulb to match stock gauges

13) Assemble gauges and wiring

14) Enjoy your favorite alcoholic beverage while admiring your hard work!



Added notes:

The radio housing was trimmed because of interference with the cluster cover. I installed only two gauges and I pre-wired for the third gauge. All wire connections are made with shielded connectors and applied with dielectric grease.



Cheers…

[JimC]

Looks great! Why dont you get a round VDO clock for the third guage and remove the stock clock? You could then move the hazard switch to the middle and add a second 12v socket. I got marine grade 12v sockets made by Sutars from http://www.ssterlingco.com/ - they were about 8 bucks each. The dont have a cig lighter, instead just a rubber cover that says "12V." Of course you would have to want to do that...

[Stmpede]

Very nicely done.

[Grover]

Looks great! Why dont you get a round VDO clock for the third guage and remove the stock clock? You could then move the hazard switch to the middle and add a second 12v socket. I got marine grade 12v sockets made by Sutars from http://www.ssterlingco.com/ - they were about 8 bucks each. The dont have a cig lighter, instead just a rubber cover that says "12V." Of course you would have to want to do that...
Jim,

Thanks! I like your 12v socket idea. With my Hella lamp plugged into my cig lighter, I may need an extra 12v source.

Cheers...

[themaxx]

That sure looks purdy! :grin Nicely done.

You should have ended your post, just before the step by step directions, with '1995 Defender 90....priceless!'

[bjf]

I know people complain that defender gauges are hard to read at night. I was just looking on trail head at how they replaced oil lines and I noticed they replaced the temp gauge with a new VDO one. Has anyone done this? Has anyone gone one step further and replaced all the gauges? This is really low priority for me but I would love to know if it has been done and what the results have been. Check out the link below.

http://www.trailhead4x4.com/18401.html

[themaxx]

Eric at Trailhead is a great guy and easy to deal with. Give him a call, he's very knowledgable about Defenders!

Btw, have you check out Mike's VDO project (http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11105)?

I have all VDO vision gauges except for the speedo. I wanted one last part that I did not change! I have fuel, egt, water, tach. Simple install, just make sure that you get a good ground and the right senders. (http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413)
(http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413)
FYI: the water temp sender should be 323 095D That took three tries to get that right. Good luck. (http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413)

[JimC]

This has been done by at least 10 guys here. A search will yield all the part numbers and most of the instructions necessary to do it. Its also not very expensive if you dont swap the speedo.

[DJ Menasco]

Yep, I've done it.

They're one of the best mods I've installed. That and my Mantec tire carrier.

Here (http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7535&highlight=VDO) you go. This should help out.

[bjf]

This info is really helpful. This is definitly on my list of mods. I also noticed Hollywood speed shop will do all the work. Glad I am in LA.

[kolvedic]

I just did mine 2 months ago and followed DJ's instructions. I went through the two listed Senders and ended up having to get the VDO 323-417 one. My sender is the m16x1.5.

If you can tell which one you need, and need one of the smaller ones, I have a couple in the garage that you can have. Just PM me with an address and i will drop it in the mail.

As for the swap, it was really easy with the instructions. My biggest issue was I could not get the damn speedo cable out, but I could get the gauges out enough to do the work. Ended up that the sleeve on the speedo cable slid down, so I had to slide that back on when putting the gauge panel back in so that I didn't have the bouncy speedo problem.:)

In retrospect, I should have changed them all while I was in there, it would actually have made the gauge swapping part easier. Not hard, just frustrating.:)

l8r,
bil

[RyanS]

I'd really recommend swapping out the gauges, not only because they'll be easier to read, but more importantly is that you'll have more accurate and meaningful readings. I also highly recommend the VDO speedo swap. Works so much better than stock, and you can calibrate it for whatever gearing or tire sizes you have.

[bjf]

any pics of the installed?

[RyanS]

Barry - Mine will look a little different as I didn't use VDO gauges other than the speedo. I decided to go with Datcon because I felt the gauges were a little easier to read, and they have a warning light as well. I'm not pushing Datcon though because I had a couple bad gauges that needed to be replaced, and they're not as easy to obtain as VDO. Anyway, I've attached some pics of my setup.

[chris snell]

Interesting panel. Not sure I'd go that way myself but it looks like one of the better custom setups. What's with the three oil temperature gauges? What do you do with eight switches?

[RyanS]

Yeah, it's not for everyone. I removed the NAS110 AC fasica so there was a big hole there. I'm still working on cleaning up that area.

I recently finished a 2.8 conversion so I haven't hooked up the two oil temp gauges yet as I have to figure out where to place the senders. The oil gauge on the left is pressure. The two temp gauges on the right will be engine oil and trans oil.

The toggle switches are mainly for lights (roof, brush bar, left side, right side, rear). But they'll also be for some diesel stuff (glow plugs, backup fuel pump, WVO). I still have a lot of wiring to do.

[rover4x4]

I think ive read that some folks have had some issues with "jumpy" VDO speedometers?

[TDI Guy]

ITs one of the best upgrades and is not really expensive..

[bjf]

That setup is insane. That truck better talk and be able to drive itself. I haven't seen that many gauges in anything that wasn't voiced by William Daniel's since 1986.

[JSBriggs]

That setup is insane. That truck better talk and be able to drive itself. I haven't seen that many gauges in anything that wasn't voiced by William Daniel's since 1986.

Then you obviously havent seen this http://www.tawayama.com/gear/randompics/5043.jpg

-Jeff

[DJ Menasco]

Then you obviously havent seen this http://www.tawayama.com/gear/randompics/5043.jpg

-Jeff

Is that Mikes Serious I or the 145?

[anthony]

thanks for the post with the part numbers the original water temp sender is an 18mm and the replacement is a 19mm

[chris snell]

DJ,

Just wanted to say "thanks" for the excellent gauge-swap write-up. I replaced my water temperature gauge and sender last night using your instructions and it was pretty straightforward. A couple of notes...

...The temperature sender seemed to be a very tight fit once it was threaded. I was really worried that I might have cross-threaded it but I re-seated it several times and it was always tight. Used a 19mm socket to crank it down, kind of a pain. No water is leaking, so I guess everything is okay. If you're going to be replacing your thermostat, might as well replace the sender and gauge at the same time because it will make it easy, having everything out of the way. Vice-versa, if you're replacing the gauge.

...My stock gauge had three wires grounded on the center post. Not wanting to cut the original ring terminals (in case the install was not successful), I made a little jumper wire, 3" long with a female .25" spade on one end and a ring terminal on the other, and I bought a tiny little bolt and nut and put all four ring terminals on this and then shrink-wrapped the entire thing. I could go back and cut the ends off, solder the wires together, and put everything into a single spade now that I know it works. Will probably do this once I find my soldering iron.

...I found some nice little insulated spade connectors at the hardware store, which made installation really easy, no shrink-wrapping each one.

...accidentally pulled the housing away from the speedo cable as I was pulling the dash out. Put the dash back together and the speedo still works. I guess I'm okay?

...the new gauge looks funny, sitting next to its stock brethren. I need to replace those, too, I guess.


Funny side note: I'm parked out on the street in front of my house, 2:30AM, working on the truck by the light of a fluorescent work light, dash is ripped apart, wires are everywhere, I'm wearing a headlamp, and this guy walks by and laughs and says "holy s%*t, that is hard core."

thanks again,

Chris

[DJ Menasco]

No problem. Glad I could help.

Ironically when I performed this swap I had to work under a head lamp too. Although I didn't attract any comments.

DJ

[chris snell]

Hmm... my stock gauges (RPM, fuel, speedo) are now very very dim at night. Their lamps do work but are so dim as to be pretty much unreadable in the dark. Any suggestions?

[DJ Menasco]

Hmm... my stock gauges (RPM, fuel, speedo) are now very very dim at night. Their lamps do work but are so dim as to be pretty much unreadable in the dark. Any suggestions?

Swap them out for VDO. It's a remarkable change. Others have said to change the bulbs for a higher rating, but I like to the look of the VDO Vision.

DJ

[airbornrover]

i know know, beating dead horse. :crazy
what does the S stand for on the back of the vdo guage?

do you have to remove and strip the grounding wires, to replace them with spade connectors so that they fit directly on the negative spade connection on the back of the vdo gauge?

also strip the wires that are for the light bulb and place spade connectors on them as well?

do you have to get the vdo temp sensor as well or can you use the orginal sensor with the vdo guage?

[JimC]

S is for the signal wire.

Yes, you have to remove the connectors and crimp on the new kind since all the connection on the back of the VDO are spades.

You must do the same thing with the light.

And yes, you need the correct temp sender as well. Don't worry, you only lose about a quart of coolant while changing it.

[ini88]

Temp sender #323-416

second to last on this page:
http://www.egauges.com/vdo_send.asp?Sender=250F_120C

[airbornrover]

more beating of said dead horse:pissed:eek:
what exactly would happen if i left the old temp sensor in place instead of replacing it with the vdo temp sensor?

[JimC]

Since you dont mind beating a dead horse, i assume you won't be offended if I give you a primer on guage function.

"Sender" is misnomer, its not sending anything. A guage functions by running an electrical circuit to ground - the "sender" is a variable resistor, and the guage is nothing more than a measure of the resistance (which explains why there is only one wire from the guage to the "sender").

So, the idea is that the guage is calibrated to the resistance of the sender, so that it displays something factual without actually measuring it. A sender has whats called an "ohm range" (resistance is measured in ohms) - that is the minimum and max resistances it will measure. The min and max marks on the gauge correspond to these minimum and max figures.

Some guys here have found that the ohm range of the stock fuel sender is close enough to function OK with the VDO guage - the readings are a bit off, but being a fuel gauge, its not an exact science, so people dont care.

There are 2 problems with a mismatched sender and guage. 1) min and max and 2) range. If the min and max are wrong, the guage might peg all the way to one side or the other. If the range is wrong, the needle will swing at the wrong rate.

Since this is a temp guage, its a lot more important that these things line up, since temp is something you want to be fairly exact with.

[airbornrover]

I appreciate the primer. makes things a little clearer with the truck electrics :cool:

Follow-up Post:

just double checking that there are no mods needed for the vdo temp sender unit that im going to have to purchase now?:crazy

[JimC]

No mods, pull trigger with confidence.

Follow-up Post:

Just to complete the loop for this thread, here is a link to another thread with all the info.

http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13431

Follow-up Post:

I just noticed that ini88 recommended 323-416, and my list has 323-417. I've used 323-417 successfully so I can't comment on how 416 fits.

Follow-up Post:

Except that it looks like its 2mm too small.

[ini88]

sorry about that. 323-417 is the sender you want, which is the second to last on that page. I read it wrong on the page. 323-416 is THE WRONG ONE William.

get #323-417

[rmuller]

We learned the hard way last night that 323-416 is the wrong one :)

[airbornrover]

installed the gauge and the sensor finally. clipped the wires and added all the proper female spade connectors and shrink tubes. when i started up the engine and ran it for a while to warm up it went all the way up to 220F and a little past. when i let off on the E-brake the needle visibily moved. I am thinking that the two ground wires that were connected on the bracket behind the old temp guage are the culbrit cause when i clipped them and added the new connector to the ground wires i just twisted them together and crimped them into the same spade connector and placed them into the negative postion? (unsure of proper terminology) behind the new temp guage.

Note: the needle did not shoot right up when i first started the engine.

[Hans]

I hate to bring up the idea, but it may actually be overheating as well. Was it sitting and idling the whole time? or did you also drive it a bit?

-Hans

[ini88]

The water and gas gauge are the same in the back. Remove the ring on the ground and twist those two together and put a female connector on there and slide that into the bottom spade on the VDO gauge. Also the original connectors must be switched around. so if one was on the left it needs to go on the right i believe and vice versa.

|_| - the bottom is where you hook in the ground.

Did you install the new temp sender?

[rmuller]

Best way to trouble shoot is with alligator clips, just be prepared to replace a fuse (7amp i think, one on bottom left of center console fusebox) if they blow out..

[JimC]

Until you successfully isoalte the ground on your temp guage, you will get stray current driving your temp up. I believe the best solution is to have the temp guage be stand-alone.

[airbornrover]

i placed the green blue wire that comes from the sensor onto the "S" terminal on the back of the temp guage and the green wire i placed on the postive terminal.

the two ground wires that were seperate before on the old temp guage i stripped them then twist them together then placed them within the same new connector and then placed that new connector (with the two ground wires connected together) into the negative terminal.

[JimC]

what did you do with the light?

[airbornrover]

twisting the two ground wires together was correct or not correct?

i do have the vdo temp sensor installed was just a straight screw in.

the wires for the light i just stripped and placed spade connectors on, and plugged them in without regard for postive or negative postion on the light for the new temp gauge.

when i went to release the hand brake the needle moved back to around the 180F to 200F area. made me think that somehow when the light on the dash for the hand brake went off that i must have done something wrong with the ground wires?

ps. appreiciate all the advice

[airbornrover]

i drove it around for a little and i noticed that when i turned on the headlights that the needle moved all the way over to the right. basically pegging to the right on the gauge.
also when i used the turn signal the needle would lightly move back and forth in time of the signal.

[JimC]

Take the guage out, give it its very own ground (ground the other wire somewhere else) and reinstall. My VDO did exactly the same thing in the Tdi, but when I installed one in the V8 truck, I gave it a dedicated ground and it works perfectly.

[TDI Guy]

Take the guage out, give it its very own ground (ground the other wire somewhere else) and reinstall. My VDO did exactly the same thing in the Tdi, but when I installed one in the V8 truck, I gave it a dedicated ground and it works perfectly.


Mine too Jim... I also ran a ground strap from the t-case to the frame which solved all my gauge problems.

[airbornrover]

ok, taken a closer look at what i did and what was going to the back of the old temp gauge. there was 3 ground wires going to the back of the old temp guage, 2 black wires were together (soldered together before) coming out of the harness so i just twist them together, crimped them as one and placed on the back of the new temp gauge. the 3rd one is coming off the back of the tachometers grounding point. so its basically a black wire extending from back of tach to the back of the temp gauge, there is another black wire coming out of the harness as well, which is going directly into the tach (assuming thats the ground for the tach?).

looked at both diagrams for the tach and the old temp gauge in the back of the workshop manual from what i can understand there is just one ground for the tach (ground symbol coming off the tach itself) and one ground for the temp at the point of the temp sensor (grounding symbol coming off the sensor).

when i disconnect this "extra" ground wire everything seemed to work fine?

let me know if i am missing something.

ps. been told i have a thing for absolutes.

[airbornrover]

first, i appreicate all the help you guys have given me.
second, im still having problems with the vdo temp guage.:cuss:crazy

with that said. you can pick up the history on the other threads i have posted. to secure the gauge to the instrument panel i used the screw on "cup" that came with it which is made out of plastic. the green-blue wire is hooked up to the (S) spade on the back of the vdo with the green wire going into the positive connector. does seem to be a grounding issue. when i turn on the headllights it goes all the way to the right or with any switch it will move a little bit. even when im running a test ground wire to the bulkhead from the negative terminal on the guage. i was told before to ground the temp guage seperately so i figured one of the screws that run along the top behind the instrument panel. that did not work, i figured that its more plastic then metal so it didnt seem to ground.

the two black wires coming out of the wiring harness that connected to the old temp guage where do i ground those to?

the black wire that ran between the tach and the old temp guage where do i ground that to? or do i not have to worry about that anymore?

the fan clutch was replaced summer of last year. and the color and antifreeze tester show normal. radiator was replaced in late 04, early 05.

i do have the orginal factory repair manuel from 1994. so it does not have the complete circuit diagram like you do for the s3 and what have you.

thanks for any assistance.

[Red90]

http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-123.pdf

Switched +12 volts to the "+" connector
Ground to the "-" connector
Sensor wire to the "S" connector.

Not sure about NAS90s.... but on regular 90s, the green wire is the switched +12 volt. Ground is black. The sensor wire is Green with a blue stripe. This sounds like what you wrote.

What sender are you using? It must be a VDO sender. If it has only one connector, it grounds through the engine. When you put the sender in, did you put anything on the threads?

[airbornrover]

nope, no plumbers tape or the like just bare metal to bare metal

[Bozman]

I think the part number on the Oil Pressure Gauge should be #350-108. The part number you show is for the water temp guage.


And the adaptor is "5-1/8 F5OG-S" (the letter O, not the number zero)

[JimC]

I find its easier to convert the old sender than to buy an adapter. I've just knocked out the guts of the stock sender and had a threaded bung welded onto it. That way you can get any size NPT sender you want.

[Bozman]

I find its easier to convert the old sender than to buy an adapter. I've just knocked out the guts of the stock sender and had a threaded bung welded onto it. That way you can get any size NPT sender you want.
That sounds much less expensive. It would be nice to have a "bung" welded somewhere on the truck too.

[JimC]

I have at least one bung on each of my trucks. I try not to talk about it too loudly though...

Whoever came up with that name for a threaded chunk of metal really out to be hurt. The same with the person who appropriated the german word for "hose" into the english lexicon: schlong.

[Bozman]

I just replaced about 8 inches of schlong this weekend. It was all dry-rotted.

Follow-up Post:

Sorry, I should've left that one alone.

[rover4x4]

I tried the two PN's for the temp sending units posted above. Have any of you had any trouble with the sending units? They may have sent the wrong part so I havent ruled that out. I wanted to ask before I start ordering more parts. Thanks.

[Bozman]

Mine are installed and appear to be working properly. What's you definition of "trouble"?

[rover4x4]

I tried both of the ones posted in DJ's initial parts list and neither will work, they are too small. So I stuck the stocker sensor in but naturally the gauge isnt really correct.

[JimC]

I had to use the 323-417 I think, IIRC my sender was the M16 size, not the M14.

[rover4x4]

Thanks, I will try a couple of more. I havent had any luck with the local "speed shops" or parts houses. I hate to wait on egauges to ship. Thanks for your help.

[rover4x4]

Ordered the 323-417 the M16 thread and it fit and everything works properly. Extremely nice and I am really glad I have a real temperature gauge. I did not change out the speedo but other wise everything looks great and the night time performance is far superior to the stock. Highly reccomend the VDO gauges.

[DJ Menasco]

Sorry about the delay, while I don't have any working pictures available (D90 is in the shop) I do have some of the installation. I have left a list of the part numbers for the VDO gauges below. As for swapping out the lights I guess you could do that but I'm not sure where to find a bulb that possesses a higher wattage nor am I aware of the listed wattage. Personally the VDO's are far superior and less expensive in the long run as any accessory or part is easy to find.

I purchased all of my senders and gauges from egauges.com (http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Vision&Cart=). Also all of the gauges are VDO Vision Black Series and are 2 1/16” in diameter except for the Speedometer which is 4-in.

Electronic Speedo: 85MPH (#437 154), however these might be out of production by now so you'll have to use the 120MPH (#437 155)
Speedo Sender: GM Sender (#340 011)

Temp Gauge: 250F/150C Range (#310 105)
Temp Sender: 250F/150C Range (#323-417). This is for a late 95, 3.9L. The It should be M16x1.5 (#323 417).

Tachometer: 6K RPM (#333 158) Just use the same wire from your alternator.

Fuel Gauge: Vision (#301 105) Again just use the same wire from the sender in the tank. There is no need to swap that out.

Electrically the only modifications that you'll have to perform are to establish new connections for the programmable speedometer and exchange the OEM light sockets for the VDO sockets using the same wires. The other issue is the Speedo sensor. You can do it yourself or take it to a speedometer-shop and have them install it. I had a shop do it for about $50.

I’ll post some of my install pictures later tonight.

Regards

DJ

Updated the sender info. with correct dimensions and VDO part number.

[don]

Just wanted to say thanks to all that posted on this thread and especially to DJ Menasco for the complete writeup. I wouldn't have been able to figure out the install without it. Great description and pictures.

The VDO guages are very nice and worth the upgrade. The only problem I am having is the Tach light isn't as bright as the Temp and Fuel level. Tach does match the stock Speedo so it sorta balances it out but I wouldn't mind seeing the numbers better at night. For all I know it might just be the bulb. Add to the "bothers me but I have other crap to fix first list"

[Red90]

Maybe a bad bulb or it is not in fully. They should all look identical.

[don]

Maybe a bad bulb or it is not in fully. They should all look identical.
Good to hear they should all look identical. Hopefully the bulb is bad and I'll recheck the how it's sitting in there too. Thanks!

[ajh]

Does anyone know which VDO oil temperature sender is needed for the 200TDI to plug in the 50-150C gauge?

[JSQ]

Has anyone installed a VDO programmable speedo in an early truck with a direct cable driven speedometer?
I don't run a VSS so I purchased the VDO adapter from E-gauges, but it's not looking like it's going play friendly. The square OEM cable is clipped into the tcase whereas the adapter threads on.

Thoughts?

[Red90]

Has anyone installed a VDO programmable speedo in an early truck with a direct cable driven speedometer?
I don't run a VSS so I purchased the VDO adapter from E-gauges, but it's not looking like it's going play friendly. The square OEM cable is clipped into the tcase whereas the adapter threads on.

Thoughts?

Yes, it is explained somewhere around here. You need a sender from a Disco 1 or a TD5 Defender.

OK, read here: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6703

The two pin Disco 1 sender is YBE100540, around $60 minimum.

The 3 pin TD5 Defender sender is YBE100530, around $35 minimum.

Note, I fitted the Disco sender with the small drive to an early box with the larger driven end and it works fine.

[JSQ]

Yes, it is explained somewhere around here. You need a sender from a Disco 1 or a TD5 Defender.

OK, read here: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6703



Note, I fitted the Disco sender with the small drive to an early box with the larger driven end and it works fine.By "sender" you're referring to a VSS for the later LT-230?
I'm not wild about that. VSS die pretty regularly. I was hoping to adapt the VDO hall effect sensor in lieu of adding a component that's fairly unreliable.

Then again, the speedo isn't essential and the VSS won't ruin my day the way it will in an ECU V8.

[Red90]

No, the standard speedo sender that are used on Discovery 1s or the later ones used on TD5 Defenders. They plug into the transfer case. I've never heard of one dying.

The "VSS" as I understand it was a separate box on a cable for use by the ECU only.

[JSQ]

No, the standard speedo sender that are used on Discovery 1s or the later ones used on TD5 Defenders. They plug into the transfer case. I've never heard of one dying.

The "VSS" as I understand it was a separate box on a cable for use by the ECU only.That's the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
All of the part numbers listed are the VSS.

They do die regularly. Check out discoweb. It just has few consequences on a truck where it's only sending signal to the speedometer. On the ECU V8 trucks the failure of the VSS interrupts engine power.

All said, I think I'll go the VSS route. The hall effect adapter I got from e-gauges looks two tricky to make work.
http://egauges.com/vdo_indS.asp?Sender=VW_GM_Cable&PN=340-011

[Red90]

Well, I've had mine for quite a while now and it was off an old Disco so has had a long life..... There is nothing to the disco one. A spinning magnet and a proxy sensor in a plastic case. I had a quick look around DW and don't see anything to make me believe they fail any more than anything else.

The TD5 Defender ones are cheaper new and completely different. Find me a story of one failing.

[JSQ]

Well, I've had mine for quite a while now and it was off an old Disco so has had a long life..... There is nothing to the disco one. A spinning magnet and a proxy sensor in a plastic case. I had a quick look around DW and don't see anything to make me believe they fail any more than anything else.

The TD5 Defender ones are cheaper new and completely different. Find me a story of one failing.They newer YBE100530 and YBE100540 enjoy a better reputation.
I had a couple old used ones lying around, but I still don't trust them, so I picked up a new one. Hopefully wire it up today and see what happens.

[tomaco1]

Are we sure that the oil pressure sender with 2 connections is four the gauge and the idiot light? Mine is marked with a G which I thought was ground, and the other has 2 letters that escape me at the moment, but that I figured was to the pressure gauge. But then again the warning light is pretty much named after me!

[Red90]

What model sender did you purchase?

[tomaco1]

it looks just like the one in the pic at the beginning of this thread and it is a VDO

[Bozman]

Tom,

There isn't a ground wire. I believe it is grounded right to the engine. One wire is for the light, the other is for the gauge. At least, that is my understanding and that is how I have it set up.

Greg

[Red90]

it looks just like the one in the pic at the beginning of this thread and it is a VDO

So you don't have a record of what you purchased?

Some senders have ground connections and some don't. VDO makes a huge number of different senders. You need to know what you have.....

http://www.sso-usa.com/performance/Accessories/pressure/index.html

Looks like only one has a ground connection. The first one I see referenced in this thread is 360-009 which uses the body for ground. Small connector will be the warning light and large the sender.

[Bozman]

So you don't have a record of what you purchased?


Tom is not that organized! :)

[tomaco1]

You got that right!

[Red90]

If I read this correctly... http://www.sso-usa.com/performance/Accessories/pressure/index.html

There should be markings on the sender which identify it.....

[tomaco1]

One post on my sender labeled G and the other says WK ?

[Bozman]

G= gauge

WK = warning klight

It's like "knife", the "k" is silent.

[tomaco1]

Is that a german thing?

[Bozman]

I think the "k" stands for "konnection", must be a german thing.

[tomaco1]

Thanks

[JSQ]

I've got a weird think with my VDO programmable speedo that I wired to a VSS.

It's erratic.
It's almost like it warms up. I can start the truck and drive away without the speedo registering, but if I drive continuously on the freeway the needle will start to bounce gradually increasing it's upper range till it eventually stabilizes and settles on actual speed. After that it will work for a while.
It's bizarre.

[Red90]

I would suspect the VSS is the problem.

[JSQ]

I would suspect the VSS is the problem.It's a YBE100530 and it's brand new.
???

[Red90]

Loose wire?

Did the VSS male match the speedo drive gear female?

[Ren Ching]

Hey, it's like an electronic version of a Series speedometer!


I've got a weird think with my VDO programmable speedo that I wired to a VSS.

It's erratic.
It's almost like it warms up. I can start the truck and drive away without the speedo registering, but if I drive continuously on the freeway the needle will start to bounce gradually increasing it's upper range till it eventually stabilizes and settles on actual speed. After that it will work for a while.
It's bizarre.

[tomaco1]

My VDO Oil pressure gauge isn't working, what the best way to test the sender? I believe all the wires are correct, as long as the G=Gauge and WK=warning light.
Thanks

[ajh]

Do you have a multimeter? Presumably the sender alters the resistance in proportion to pressure so you should be able to clip the leads and see if the resistance changes. The range I am not sure of offhand but the VDO docs may give that.

[Ren Ching]

Guess this could be merged into the big VD thread, dunno...well, I bought a VDO H2O temp gauge and the EGT one as well. My engine has likely been "tuned," the cap on the IP is dimpled from someone's efforts to remove it, it smokes like hell when you stomp on the pedal and is quite fast. So figured the EGT gauge would be a good idea.

So I got the kit, and installed everything. I actually was able to thread the thermocouple fitting into the EGT blanking plate at the correct angle, don't know how well it is going to seal but we will see. i can always weld something up later if it doesn't work.

A few things I have noticed from reading others' posts on the subject. I saw nothing in the instructions about not cutting the wires to the thermocouple. Fortunately I did not, decided against it for some reason, but later saw someone saying it was very explicitly stated in their instructions not to do that.

Sitting at idle and even revving the engine a bit I never saw the need move off the the first mark on the gauge which is IIRC 250F. I though that was suspect and checked all the fittings on the back. Everything was done up correctly and I had 12v and a good ground on the correct spades. I placed the test light on the t/couple spades and it did not light up. Thinking this was suspect I pulled the connector off the spade and the spade broke off the back of the gauge. F**K there goes $80...I'll phone up egauges to see what the deal is with the voltage. Maybe I just need to actually drive the vehicle to get things warm enough to register on the gauge but I figure even at idle it would be over 250??

Another issue, the egauges website says the kit does not come with a weld in fitting so i bought one, but there was one in the kit as well.

With both the VDO and the Sunpro water temp gauges that were in there, the temp won't get much over 100F at idle.

Last but not least, what is the deal with the oddball connector on the VDO water temp sender. I managed to slide a female spade connector on there but WTF is the intended mate for that one?

So many questions...I know I shouldn't keep it all bottled up inside like this...

thanks
D

[Red90]

Just drive it..... You are over thinking things... No it will not be above 250F at idle except after driving hard. A test light is not about to work on a thermocouple. You need a TC gauge...

[JSQ]

Precisely.
I don't know your exact set-up but the 300Tdi runs very cool when it isn't being flogged.
If you're not pushing boost you will hardly move EGT at all.
Likewise coolant temp should be very low at idle, even in hot conditions.

The converse is also true. If you're blasting along the interstate, particularly uphill, the EGT will rise at a rapid rate. Sustained high rpms will also produce fairly increased coolant temps.

In general it's going to be far less sensitive to ambient temp than the V8s.

[Ren Ching]

Thanks John and Jack. My setup is for all intents and purposes stock with the exception of the possible IP tweaking that has been done. Just trying to tie up some loose ends that were left that way in order to get this heap down to the MAR. I've heard these things run cool but even knowing that I've been surprised at my gauge readings. Yes my ability to think gets me in trouble all the time. See Doug's signature line. Usually there is a reason everyone else is doing it some other way. You'd think a gov't employee would be better at leaving well enough alone.


Just drive it..... You are over thinking things... No it will not be above 250F at idle except after driving hard. A test light is not about to work on a thermocouple. You need a TC gauge...

[130Tdi]

Dave good thing you didn't cut it. Cutting and soldering it changes the resistance. My egt doesn't come off 0 degrees unless I drive the truck. Even then as Jack said above you will need a grade to get it to climb to anything over 500. As far as coolant temp should be cold as a cucumber again untill you drive it under load and create enough heat to get the thermostat to open. Never been able to get the truck up to operating temp or get the egt gauge to register much if anything sitting in the driveway. Doubt you will see much movement on yours between your house and the museum.

[Neil McCauley]

I'm gonna do all my guages (minus the speedo) this weekend and I'm gonna use dj's write up, soooo excited hehe

[TDI Guy]

you will not regret it. The speedo is easy to do as well... After you change the other gauges, YOu will hate the speedo..:)

[sonoronos]

I placed the test light on the t/couple spades and it did not light up.
D

You want to use a voltmeter for this and measure resistance, not a test light.

[Red90]

You want to use a voltmeter for this and measure resistance, not a test light.

Not for a thermocouple. Thermocouples produce millivolts. You really need a thermocouple meter.

[sonoronos]

Not for a thermocouple. Thermocouples produce millivolts. You really need a thermocouple meter.

I stand corrected!

[Arjun]

Planning on switching over to VDO gauges at some point in the future, so I wanted to get confirmation on part numbers for a 300TDI before I start ordering them from egauges.com. I gathered all of the info here from different threads on the board, but wanted to confirmation on components where I've seen conflicting info.

Could the experts confirm/comments on the choices? Hopefully this will be useful to others in the future as well. Any and all help is great appreciated.

Water Temp Gauge
VDO Part Number: 310-105
Product Description: 2 1/16 250F Engine Temp. - Elec. Vision Black

Water Temp Sender
VDO Part Number: 323-095
Product Description: Temperature Sender: 250F/120C - 1/8-27 NPT -

Oil Temp Gauge
VDO Part Number: 310-106
Product Description: 2 1/16 300F Engine Temp. - Elec. Vision Black

Oil Temp Sender
VDO Part Number: 323-057
Product Description: Temperature Sender: 300F/150C - 1/8-27 NPT -

Oil Pressure Gauge
VDO Part Number: 350-104
Product Description: 2 1/16 80 PSI Engine Press. - Elec. Vision Black

Oil Pressure Sender
VDO Part Number: 360-009
Product Description: Pressure Sender: 0-80 PSI/5 Bar - 1/8-27 NPT - 7.0 PSI
QUESTION: Use 360-006 instead? I've seen both senders being mentioned.

Fuel Gauge
VDO Part Number: 301-105
Product Description: 2 1/16 for 240-33 Ohm sender Fuel level Vision Black

Fuel Gauge Sender
QUESTION: Can I use the stock 300TDI sender? If not, what should I use?

Speedometer
VDO Part Number: 437-155
Product Description: 4 120 MPH Speedometer Vision Black

Speedometer Sender
VDO Part Number: 340-011
Product Description: Speedometer Sender: Standard, GM - -

Tachometer
VDO Part Number: 333-158
Product Description: 2 1/16 6,000 RPM Tach - Electric Vision Black
QUESTION: Use 4000 RPM Tach (PN: 333-156) instead?

EGT Gauge
VDO Part Number: 310-153
Product Description: 2 1/16 250F-1650F Pyrometer / EGT Vision Black

Clock
VDO Part Number: 370-100B
Product Description: 2 1/16 Clock Vision Black

[Red90]

Fuel Gauge Sender
QUESTION: Can I use the stock 300TDI sender? If not, what should I use?

Speedometer
VDO Part Number: 437-155
Product Description: 4 120 MPH Speedometer Vision Black

Speedometer Sender
VDO Part Number: 340-011
Product Description: Speedometer Sender: Standard, GM - -

Tachometer
VDO Part Number: 333-158
Product Description: 2 1/16 6,000 RPM Tach - Electric Vision Black
QUESTION: Use 4000 RPM Tach (PN: 333-156) instead?


Yes, stock sender works great on the fuel.

You need a VSS from either a Disco 1 or a TD5 Defender, not the 340-011 shown above. Used Disco 1 is the cheap, easy way...

I think 4000 rpm is fine.

[Arjun]

Yes, stock sender works great on the fuel.

You need a VSS from either a Disco 1 or a TD5 Defender, not the 340-011 shown above. Used Disco 1 is the cheap, easy way...

I think 4000 rpm is fine.

Thanks for the input. Any thoughts on the sender for the Oil Pressure Gauge? I found a bunch of references to Part Number 360-009, but then I saw a JimC post that says use 360-006 that has me confused.

[Red90]

No idea. You need someone that has actually tried. It is more than the connection type, but the clearance as well. The pressure senders are quite large. I think if you read around on the UK forums, no stock VDO sender fits right on. Adapters are required.

[JimC]

I'm not sure any more - egauges.com has change the part numbers for oil pressure senders and I don't have easy access to my RoverRecords to check what the distinction used to be...

[Arjun]

I'm not sure any more - egauges.com has change the part numbers for oil pressure senders and I don't have easy access to my RoverRecords to check what the distinction used to be...

Thanks for chiming in JimC - I might as well get both senders and see which one fits.

[JFD]

Water Temp Sender
VDO Part Number: 323-095
Product Description: Temperature Sender: 250F/120C - 1/8-27 NPT

What kind of funny electrical connector is that ?

[newfD90]

What kind of funny electrical connector is that ?

A normal socketed (female) part of a crimp on blade connector will slide right on.

[TDI Guy]

What kind of funny electrical connector is that ?


Regular spade connector slides right over it.

[JFD]

thanks guys, there is always a first time :)

[JFD]

anyone noticed that the VDO voltmeter gauge is quite inaccurate ?

[jefhuf]

anyone noticed that the VDO voltmeter gauge is quite inaccurate ?

I actually thought mine was doing pretty well. Maybe check your ground connection?

I installed mine on the accessory (2nd) battery of my dual battery setup and the gauge will read approximately 12V when the solenoid on the controller is not engaged and immediately jumps to approximately 14V when engaged

As a side note, I have noticed that my fuel gauge seems to bounce more than I expected but I have heard that is typically a sender issue, not a gauge issue

[JFD]

i have a good ground and a good positive, i checked it with a DMM, the thing is just inaccurate i guess. I'm trying to find a digital volmeter gauge that won't look too weird compare to VDO.

[Red90]

There are some round digital ones. http://www.egauges.com/eg_typeI.asp?Type=Voltmeter12&Face=All&Bezel=All&Lighting=All&Letter=All&Needle=All&Diameter=All&Manf=All

If you do not need round, there are various choices for digital rectangular ones.

In my opinion, certain instruments should be digital. Voltmeters and EGT gauges are ones that should be digital. You want a precise number at a high part of the range.

[Manimal]

How are the lights on the VDO Vision Black gauges that you installed. Brighter than stock?

[Red90]

Many, many times brighter. The dials are through lit and the needles are lit as well. You need to dim the lighting or it is too bright.

[Manimal]

Well, that seals the deal for me. I'm replacing them. I was in the middle of swapping our the dash bulbs for LEDs when I got to the speedo cluster. LEDs are brighter for sure, I just don't like how the stock speedo, fuel gauge, temp,etc are backlit. They suck no matter what type of light source you have.

Are the VDOs LED? What color are they?

If I just swap out the stock dials do I need to swap out the senders for each?

When replacing the speedo, is it possible to calibrate it to have it read more accurate? Mine is about 12% off due to different gearing.

[Red90]

The stock VDO lights are not LED, but you can get them. Stock bulbs are white. You can get whatever colours you want or use diffusers to change colour. Try them first. They are too bright without dimming...

http://www.egauges.com/vdo_agrp.asp?SName=Replacement_Bulbs_Sockets

[Manimal]

I know this has been covered. I just need some clarification. If I decide to swap out just the stock gauges and senders, is this the correct list of part numbers? Do I need a new tach sender? If so what part# is it? Where can I get a new VSS sender for the speedo? Am I missing anything on my list? Thanks in advance.

Water Temp Gauge $24.95 - VDO Part Number: 310-105
Water Temp Sender $6.50 - VDO Part Number: 323-095
Fuel Gauge $24.95 - VDO Part Number: 301-105
Fuel Gauge sender: Can I use existing 300tdi sender?
Speedometer $268.30 - VDO Part Number: 437-155
Speedo Sender: Where can I buy a new TD5 VSS sender?
Tachometer $74.95 - VDO Part Number: 333-156
Tach Sender? New or use existing? If new, what part#?

[Red90]

Tach runs from the alternator. I would suggest picking up a laser non-contact tach to set it up. They are pretty cheap.

VSS part from any normal Rover parts supplier. Cheapest route is a used unit from a Disco 1. New ones are pricey.

Yes, existing fuel sender works well.

[Manimal]

The speedo sender for a Td5 and 300Tdi is part# YBE100530. Is it possible that I already have this sender installed on my 300tdi converted NAS?

Does the laser tach set up have to be rover specific or is it a generic item?

[Red90]

No, any old non contact tach. You can the measure the speed of any shaft. Just makes it easy to adjust the VDO tach. They cost $30 or so.

If you already have an electronic speedo, you can use the current sender. The VDO will use any sender.

[Manimal]

I don't have an electronic speedo so I will need to upgrade. I think I have the wrong part number. That part# is for a LT230 transmission. Not sure what the part number is for a R380. In addition to the transducer I also need the wires right?

Does VDO make laser tach senders?

[97-D90-736]

Has someone done the temp swap on a 4.0? I ordered the 323-417 (M16) and she doesnt fit. I am guessing it is the M14 (323-416). Can someone confirm?

I have 417 if someone ordered the 416 and needs to to swap.

[Manimal]

I'm considering adding a mud pod for 3 extra gauges, one of them being outside temperature. In addition to the stock gauges, what other gauges do you consider important? I have a 300tdi so, turbo boost? Oil temp EGT? Which ones should I get first?

[timtimtj]

going through this now...ordered the mini pod- outdoor temp, oil pressure and bat volts are the three I got.

I originally was going to use the stereo insert for the gauges as shown on page two of this thread but my plastics have faded so much that the insert color and my vent trim faded color is not even close and looks a bit funny...so, I'm giving the mini pop a try.

[Manimal]

Is the oil pressure gauge different from the oil temp page? Which one is more important? I ordered a oil temp but debating whether to keep it. Need an expert opinion.

Will the battery gauge work with a dual battery system?

going through this now...ordered the mini pod- outdoor temp, oil pressure and bat volts are the three I got.

I originally was going to use the stereo insert for the gauges as shown on page two of this thread but my plastics have faded so much that the insert color and my vent trim faded color is not even close and looks a bit funny...so, I'm giving the mini pop a try.

[Manimal]

What oil pressure sender is needed for a 300tdi? Can't find it in the thread(s).

[Manimal]

For Oil Pressure Gauge I went with 350-104 and this sender: 360-009. I hope they fit my 300tdi.

Is it possible to hook up the Oil pressure warning light to the stock dash warning indicator?

For the VDO speedo I am planning to order the YBE100540 Def/Disco Transducer. Can anyone confirm that this works with the 300tdi?

[jefhuf]

Yes, you can hook the idiot light to one of the studs and the lead for your gauge to the other...this is what I did with my 3.9. The only item to note is that on the 3.9 I had to get an adaptor for the threads which I picked up from my local Parker Hydraulics supplier. I suspect you may need to do the same on the TDI but I do not know.

[130Tdi]

The single most important gauge for a tdi in my opinion is an egt/pyrometer.

[Manimal]

How so?

The single most important gauge for a tdi in my opinion is an egt/pyrometer.

[Red90]

The single most important gauge for a tdi in my opinion is an egt/pyrometer.

Only true if you have cranked up the fueling..

[Manimal]

School me on EGT. Why is it important and what benefit do you get from monitoring it with a gauge?

[Red90]

If it goes too high, you damage the engine. It won't go too high if everything is stock.

[Manimal]

I don't think I will have that problem. Mine is stock with the exception of an Allard Intercooler. I recently upgraded the stock exhaust to a 2 1/2" Magnaflow which should help cool the engine as well, right? At least it is better for the turbo.

My VDO upgrade consisted of replacing the stock gauges: Speedo, Fuel, Tach and Coolant Temp. I also got 3 more gauges to fit into a MUD UK Mini Pod: Outside Temp, Volt and Oil Pressure. The only one I wasn't sure of was the Oil Pressure. I needed one more gauge to complete the Mini Pod and I wasn't sure which additional gauges would be important which is why I posed the question here.

What is the benefit of monitoring the oil pressure? What would be considered abnormal and why?

[Red90]

What is the point of a larger intercooler if you do not increase the fueling?

[Manimal]

Not sure. I didn't install it. It came with the truck. I'm looking for fuel economy not a smoke machine with 2 extra horse powers.

[Red90]

Perhaps the PO increased the fueling. Believe it or not, more power can be had without any change in mileage....

[130Tdi]

Only true if you have cranked up the fueling..
Which is virtually impossible to determine without a pyrometer. The newest of these engines is now 5 years old and most have been "touched" by someone.

[Manimal]

He did. He went too far. It was set beyond the point where it was doing any good, just produced more smoke. I turned it down to a more reasonable level.

Perhaps the PO increased the fueling. Believe it or not, more power can be had without any change in mileage....

------ Follow up post added January 30th, 2011 09:59 AM ------

So, oil pressure. How important is it to monitor it and why?

------ Follow up post added January 30th, 2011 10:10 AM ------

You are both right but I would argue that it is possible to determine that it has been messed with. At least in general. You could tell mine had been messed with from all the smoke when driving. You just couldn't tell how much or what the EGT temp was.

So now I'm torn. Should i return the oil pressure gauge for an EGT gauge or not?

Is it pointless to have a voltmeter gauge if you run dual batteries?


Which is virtually impossible to determine without a pyrometer. The newest of these engines is now 5 years old and most have been "touched" by someone.

[jefhuf]

For those who have installed the VDO oil pressure gauge on a 3.9L, what kind of readings are you getting at idle?

[130Tdi]

He did. He went too far. It was set beyond the point where it was doing any good, just produced more smoke. I turned it down to a more reasonable level.



------ Follow up post added January 30th, 2011 09:59 AM ------

So, oil pressure. How important is it to monitor it and why?

------ Follow up post added January 30th, 2011 10:10 AM ------

You are both right but I would argue that it is possible to determine that it has been messed with. At least in general. You could tell mine had been messed with from all the smoke when driving. You just couldn't tell how much or what the EGT temp was.

So now I'm torn. Should i return the oil pressure gauge for an EGT gauge or not?

Is it pointless to have a voltmeter gauge if you run dual batteries?

I guess you are starting to get my point, which is you cannot determine whether or not an injection pump has been tweaked unless you know the pumps history, or the person who changed it made markings which many do not. Simply turning one back with no real idea where you are is absolutely NO insurance unless there were reference markings made by the person who tweaked it which as said above often isn't the case. Tuning one to an egt gauge is the only way to have any peace of mind.
You cannot tell if a pump has been tweaked by the amount of smoke. All that means is that there is insufficient air for complete combustion- this could also mean a clogged air filter,intercooler, boost leak, kinked hose elbow, or a very weak turbo. I have a friend with a tdi 110 who has owned his truck since new and has never touched his IP and its the smokiest one I have ever seen.

Oil pressure is more important than temp. When oil gets very hot, pressure tends to drop-ie you can infer one from the other. That said you cannot tell what your pressure is from a temp gauge-ie doesn't work vice versa. Lack of oil pressure will wipe out your engine whereas hot oil will not.

I think volt meters are important when you are running things from the battery bank when the engine isn't running-like a fridge in camp all weekend. Ie on my boat, when I walk into the cabin I look to the left and see what my battery status is before climbing up to the bridge and trying to fire it up. Once its running I use seperate amp meter's for each engine even though they both feed the same battery banks. So in the case of a 300 tdi where you only need 12 volts to start it and keep the fuel solenoid from closing, and wipers, lights, heater when conditions dictate it; I don't see nearly as much value in a volt meter as in an amp meter which tells you what your alternator is putting out, ie I use an amp meter to gauge alternator condition and a volt meter for battery condition. That said its your engine monitor it as you choose.

Jeff 12-17 when hot. Oil pressure sender/idiot light comes on @ 7.

[jefhuf]

Jeff 12-17 when hot. Oil pressure sender/idiot light comes on @ 7.

thanks Doug...mine runs around 20-22 at startup and drops to 15ish at temp so I was worried that maybe those values were a little low. I'm used to my some of my other older vehicles that would run around 40 at temp

[130Tdi]

thanks Doug...mine runs around 20-22 at startup and drops to 15ish at temp so I was worried that maybe those values were a little low. I'm used to my some of my other older vehicles that would run around 40 at temp

20-22 on start up is low..... what are you running 0-40W ?

[jefhuf]

Yeah, running 0W-40 Mobil1. Depending on outside air temp it may be as high as 27-28psi but never above 30 on startup. Think I should try switching oil?


Posted from my BlackBerry using BerryBlab (http://www.BerryBlab.com)

[Red90]

You are both right but I would argue that it is possible to determine that it has been messed with. At least in general. You could tell mine had been messed with from all the smoke when driving. You just couldn't tell how much or what the EGT temp was.

So now I'm torn. Should i return the oil pressure gauge for an EGT gauge or not?

Is it pointless to have a voltmeter gauge if you run dual batteries?

The EGTs can be high without visible smoke.

I would personally suggest a digital gauge with max memory. It is MUCH more useful than an analog gauge. These guys have a great deal, http://stores.ebay.com/Auber-Instruments

A voltmeter is great as well, but again it needs to be digital to be really useful. A half a volt this way or that tells a lot about the charging system and battery condition.

[130Tdi]

Yeah, running 0W-40 Mobil1. Depending on outside air temp it may be as high as 27-28psi but never above 30 on startup. Think I should try switching oil?


Posted from my BlackBerry using BerryBlab (http://www.BerryBlab.com)

nah just end up killing that weak a$$ed v8 starter sooner.You know what you're doing.

[Manimal]

Thanks for the primer, Doug.

I think I will return the Volt meter for an EGT gauge. I have a blanking plate on my 300tdi so I guess I can install the sender there?

I'm all for accurate readings but I'm also trying to keep the upgrades looking as stock as possible. Hence the VDO dials.

[130Tdi]

Thanks for the primer, Doug.

I think I will return the Volt meter for an EGT gauge. I have a blanking plate on my 300tdi so I guess I can install the sender there?

I'm all for accurate readings but I'm also trying to keep the upgrades looking as stock as possible. Hence the VDO dials.

Yes thats the easiest place on a 300. I would suggest you remove that plate and look @ the angle that the probe has to enter the plate. Ie you need to drill that plate @ an angle.
John is right about digital probably being best on the market but would agree that the VDO analog sure looks more in keeping with the spartan interior.

[Ren Ching]

EGT pyrometer install- I installed mine into the 300tdi exhaust manifold EGR blankoff plate as recommended here and elsewhere. The original plate was quite thin and my ministrations on it did it no favors, and it warped and would never seal. I made a new one using 3/16" plate and it still leaked. I even cleaned up the mating surface and flattened it on a belt sender. Fucker still leaks. In my opinion this will need to be made up of 1/4" or better plate. Anybody else have this experience? (I even went as far as to braze the fitting in before cutting the plate from the larger sheet, to try to control warpage)

[Manimal]

I received my new speedo yesterday (437-155). I also ordered the YBE100540 Speedo Transducer which is supposed to work with this speedo. What are the next steps. Do I need a new cable? If so, what kind and where do I get it? Can I take it to a speedo shop without them messing it up?

[Red90]

No cable needed. Just wire it up.

[JSQ]

I still have never gotten my programmable speedo to work correctly with VSS.
It will "wake up" occasionally after long sustained driving but seems to get angry with the wipers or turn signals. It's inconsistent at best.

[Manimal]

Do you recall the part number? During my research I found that there are two part numbers. The older one had some reliability issues and the newer one was much better from what I read.

I still have never gotten my programmable speedo to work correctly with VSS.
It will "wake up" occasionally after long sustained driving but seems to get angry with the wipers or turn signals. It's inconsistent at best.

------ Follow up post added February 8th, 2011 02:12 PM ------

You mean I reuse the existing cable?

No cable needed. Just wire it up.

[JSQ]

I bought the newer YBE unit.

Although I never found any straight info on how to wire the output from the VSS to the VDO speedo. I just tried pretty much every configuration I could think of. If someone has specific instructions I'd like to look them over.

[Red90]

You mean I reuse the existing cable?

No, the new sender goes straight into the transfer case. You just run wires from it to the speedo.

There is some confusion.... JSQ has a V8 which has an existing VSS inline with the cable. You have a 300TDI which does not have this. The V8 VSS "should" work...

[Manimal]

Ok. What kind of wires?

[JSQ]

No, the new sender goes straight into the transfer case. You just run wires from it to the speedo.

There is some confusion.... JSQ has a V8 which has an existing VSS inline with the cable. You have a 300TDI which does not have this. The V8 VSS "should" work...

I have a V8?
That's odd. I guess I should stop putting diesel in it.

[Red90]

I have a V8?
That's odd. I guess I should stop putting diesel in it.

OK, I misread. You have the YBE100540 from a Disco 1. If it does not work for you, it is either broken or you have it hooked up wrong.

http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-051.pdf

It is inductive. Wiring diagram #2. Sensor wired to 7 and 8 on the speedo. I have has this setup for a couple of years. Never had any problems.

------ Follow up post added February 8th, 2011 01:44 PM ------

Ok. What kind of wires?

Ones made out of metal (usually copper) with insulation around them?

[JSQ]

Yes I'm running a YBE100530.
Any idea how the pins on the VSS correspond to the color wires from the hall effect sensor in diagram D,1?

[Red90]

http://www.retroanaconda.com/james/cars/defender/td5_gauges/Gauges%20Wiring%20Diagram.pdf

[JSQ]

Well that might be my answer. I don't think I grounded the middle pin.

[Red90]

Well that might be my answer. I don't think I grounded the middle pin.

Make sure you do it like is shown in the VDO instructions. Middle pin to pin 3 of the speedo and then to ground. Having a common ground can be important with instruments. Floating grounds can lead to problems.

[Manimal]

I'm replacing the stock gauges this weekend. About the speedo. Can I reuse the existing cable with the new transducer? If not what type of cable should I get and from where? Am I better taking it in to a speedo shop or can I set up and calibrate it myself?

[Red90]

The transducer goes directly into the transfer case. No cables are used.

Calibration is very straightforward.

[Manimal]

I'm not sure I understand. Is it wireless? How does it work? I don't think I ordered a wireless one. I got the YBE... rover part.

[Red90]

The transducer goes into the transfer case. You run wires from it to the speedometer.

There are no "cables". "Cables" in this meaning are spinning things that mechanical transfer the spinning of the transfer case to a mechanically driven speedometer. I'm assuming that you currently have a mechanical speedometer with a cable connecting it to the transfer case. If you currently have an electronic speedometer, then you just need to replace the speedometer. You would already have a transducer installed ans wired up.

[Manimal]

I am changing from mechanical to electronic. What type of wire do I need to get?

[Red90]

I am changing from mechanical to electronic. What type of wire do I need to get?

See post 201 above.

Maybe I do not understand what you are trying to ask. Wire, electrical wire, it does not matter. Are you able to do simple vehicle wiring? If not, maybe you should be paying someone.

[Manimal]

I thought the question was simple but perhaps I am not clear. I am asking if a specific wire is needed between the speedo and transducer. If so what kind of wire is it? I figured that there might be a rover part number for this or something I could pick up locally. Napa perhaps? What I am looking for is wire type, part number or gauge thickness etc etc. I can do simple wiring but I'd like to know what i am dealing with first before i start. I am considering taking it to a speedo shop to save me the hassle of sourcing a mystery wire.

[Red90]

Any wire will work fine, any gauge, any type. Nothing special is required.

[Manimal]

I'm sorry to harp on this. Will this one work?

http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/95/land_rover/defender_90/instruments_gauges/genuine_speedometer_cable.html?3593=122321

or this one:

http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php?xProd=89798

How long does it need to be?

[Red90]

OK, I'm not sure how to make this any more clear. YOU DO NOT NEED A SPEEDOMETER CABLE!!!!!!!!

You need YBE100530 or YBE100540. Both mount directly to the transfer case and no cable is used.
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/13485/YBE100530-TRANSDUCER-SPEEDO-DRIVE.html
http://www.lrseries.com/shop/product/listing/13486/YBE100540-TRANSDUCER-SPEED-SENSOR.html?search=YBE100540&page=1

[Manimal]

Already have the YBE100540.

I'm going to try and be more clear. Is the YBE100540 wireless? Is something connecting between the speedo and the YBE transducer? If so what is it and where can I get it? You mentioned a copper wire in a sheath but doesn't it need appropriate connectors in order to fit this on the transducer and back of speedo? If so where do i get those? I would appreciate if someone gave me an example of a copper wire that they have used or this purpose and is proven to work.

[Red90]

Are you reading what I've said above????

Electrical wires, like used for all electrical wiring in the truck. Any electrical wire will do. I'm starting to wonder if you are pulling my chain here.

You can used regular spade connectors if you wish on both ends. The proper waterproof connector for the sender is the same as the tail lights, part number STC1188.

[Manimal]

You just said the magic word: Electrical wires. When you first said that any wire will do I got confused. Electrical wire with spade connectors. Got it. Sorry for driving you insane. English is my 2nd language. Wires, cables and cords sound all the same to me.

[Manimal]

I'm almost afraid to ask. The new VDO coolant temp sender. Connects to gauge via electrical wire and spade connectors as well?

[Red90]

Yes.

[Miller]

Is the Disco I VSS (YBE100540G) compatible with an LT95 4-spd gearbox? I'd like to updgrade to VDO gauges and I'd prefer to ditch my old speedo cable and go electronic. I've searched the forum and found a few posts that touch on this without actually confirming if it will work. I greatly appreciate any info you all can provide.

[discotdi]

that last exchange was so fun to read.:) Who's on first,Wire? no electrical wire!

[Manimal]

Thanks everyone for helping me through my first wiring job. Thanks to DJ Menasco for an excellent write up and to John for answering all my silly questions. I successfully replaced all stock gauges and installed a Td5 style transducer for the speedo last weekend. Everything works great with the exception of the tach that needs to be tuned. A laser tach is on its way.

I highly suggest installing High Power LED's while you're at it. I have the wrong LED's installed in the attached image so the spread is not even but it gives you a good idea of how bright they are. The picture doesn't do it justice. In reality they are much greener and brighter.

The correct LED bulbs to use for the VDO dash gauges are:

Speedometer: 2 x WLED-GHP5
Fuel Guage: 1 x WLED-GHP5
Water Temperature: 1 x WLED-GHP5
Tachometer: 1 x 74-GHP3

If you prefer a different color than green swap out the "G". Bulbs are from Superbrightleds.com.

[Arjun]

Ok, I've run into a bit of a problem with the install for the tach. The VDO instructions say connect to the "A/C Tap Out" winding of the alternator. I googled tach installs and every forum thread I've read says to hook up the tach to the "W" winding on the alternator show here (with the "?"):

http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/revcounter/index.htm

Well I did that and as soon as I fire the truck up, the tach needle sweeps to the 6K max mark. What am I doing wrong?

Help!

[jefhuf]

Ok, I've run into a bit of a problem with the install for the tach. The VDO instructions say connect to the "A/C Tap Out" winding of the alternator. I googled tach installs and every forum thread I've read says to hook up the tach to the "W" winding on the alternator show here (with the "?"):

http://www.reedx.net/landrover/mods/revcounter/index.htm

Well I did that and as soon as I fire the truck up, the tach needle sweeps to the 6K max mark. What am I doing wrong?

Help!

Check the switches on the back of the gauge...I do not remember the exact positions required but I do recall that they must be changed. In this thread someone discussed the appropriate settings

[Arjun]

Check the switches on the back of the gauge...I do not remember the exact positions required but I do recall that they must be changed. In this thread someone discussed the appropriate settings

Thanks. I just saw DJ Menasco's post (#21). Will try that next weekend and hopefully it will work.

[jefhuf]

Thanks. I just saw DJ Menasco's post (#21). Will try that next weekend and hopefully it will work.

It should...when I installed mine I had the same problem at first as I hadn't paid attention to the post. Once I flipped the switches all was well again!

[Red90]

Or you guys could read the instructions that come with the gauge....

[Manimal]

Not helpful. None of the dip switch settings in the instructions worked for me nor did the advice in this thread. I found the answer elsewhere. In my experience, the instructions for all the various defender accessories I have gotten have ranged from poor to pointless.

[Arjun]

Or you guys could read the instructions that come with the gauge....

Like Carl said, the instructions that came with tach just say hook it up to the alternator "A/C Tap Out". It took googling to find out about the W terminal and then even that didn't work.

[Red90]

Like Carl said, the instructions that came with tach just say hook it up to the alternator "A/C Tap Out". It took googling to find out about the W terminal and then even that didn't work.

Instructions are pretty darn clear if you ask me.... http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-044.pdf

Really, you just flip the dip switches until the reading is in the ballpark and then adjust the pot until is is exactly correct. There are only 8 possible dip switch settings. You can't hurt the tach.

[Arjun]

Instructions are pretty darn clear if you ask me.... http://www.egauges.com/pdf/vdo/0-515-012-044.pdf

Really, you just flip the dip switches until the reading is in the ballpark and then adjust the pot until is is exactly correct. There are only 8 possible dip switch settings. You can't hurt the tach.

Did what the instructions said, still didn't work. I think I'll just start messing with the dip switches.

[Red90]

Did what the instructions said, still didn't work. I think I'll just start messing with the dip switches.

Is the connector you used actually marked with a "W" or are you assuming it is the right one? Not all alternators have a W terminal.

[Arjun]

Is the connector you used actually marked with a "W" or are you assuming it is the right one? Not all alternators have a W terminal.

Terminal actually has "W" stamped next to it. The other terminals have "B" and "D" stamped next to them.

[Yudda]

thank you all for the info !

[Cube II]

I bought the VDO water temp gauge and 1/8 sender...

The sender looks like that in the picture, with the stupid mushroom end.
The stock sender on top of my 300 Tdi has a square spade connector (to match the square plug).

How on earth do I connect it??:cuss:cuss:cuss

Please don't just say "the stock connector will just slide over it",
because I tried to pull it off the sender a few mins ago with pliers and it's just stuck there.
I gave up as I don't want to break it.

What am I missing here?
:mad

[JimC]

The stock connector won't slide over it, but a standard receptacle for a spade connector will. The mushroom just acts like a spade and the connector can rotate any direction. Kinda clever actually.

[Cube II]

Guten tag!
:)

Any pic of this "standard receptacle"?

I'm googling it...

(edit) only to find common female connectors...

If so, I can't think of a lesser dodgy job...:confused

[Manimal]

Jim is right. I just picked up a spade connector at the hardware store and it fit perfectly.

[Cube II]

I feel retarded.

[Tino.R]

michele if the female conn. looks like the one on the picture remove the plastic cover (if you have one) and slide side ways should work.

[carlosz]

all right guys here is my small contribution, I have just finished installing a vdo speedo in a customer's 97 d90.
the power up of the unit is described all over the forum, so is the conversion from mechanical to electronic speedo
on pre 96 "digital display odometer" trucks.
discission about the installation on 96 and 97 trucks however is very vague so I decided to make notes on my experience and here they are, if I can I will post a picture.
for starters, the factory plug at the back of the factory unit is a straight fit into the VDO unit.
the wire position do not match the location required by VDO in its instructions.
on the factory plug.
position # 1 is red with white tracer, this is lighted power (lights on/off)
position # 2 is white with green tracer, this is switched power (key on/off)
position # 3 is black this is ground
position # 4 is black with red tracer, this is the speedo PULSE signal (7 pulses per one wheel revolution)
position # 5 is black this is ground
position # 6 is empty, thus not used
position # 7 is yellow with pink tracer this is engine rpm signal to abs ecu, not used
position # 8 is empty.
on the VDO unit,
position # 8 is the speedo pulse signal input, black with red from factory position 4
position # 4 is the main power, it uses the white and green tracer from factory position 2
position # 7 is the main ground, it used any ground from factory position 6 or 3
position # 3 is the signal ground, with out this the speedo gauge will tend to act erratically. I did a "y" split for a set of grounds as factory provides 2 VDO needs 3, one for the lights.
the lights were wired in tandem and since they are fully insulated the power and ground can be reversed.
once all was installed, the VDO speedo would not register mph and I traveled a mile for it to register 1/10 of a mile.
a call to Egauges.com tech line solved the issue partially by suggesting the "calibration procedure" .
this issue was solved by using a gps to track a measured mile.
the truck was equipped with 4 brand new bf goodrich 265/75/16, the VDO unit provides a total count of pulses per mile... it turned out to be 8510 pulses per mile.
once it registered auto calibration, the speedo gauge begun to read and so did the odometer, within the gps readings.
BTW the factory speedo was replaced because it died, the odo stopped displaying.
I made short jumper wires in order to route signals as needed, and keeping the capacity of returning the truck to use the factory speedo if so desired in the future.
picture is last, showing back of unit with jumper wires ready for installation.
------ Follow up post added November 30th, 2011 09:03 PM ------

http://bl143w.blu143.mail.live.com/att/GetAttachment.aspx?tnail=0&messageId=e08a36a2-1bbb-11e1-8cc8-001e0bcbe7cc&Aux=14|0|8CE7DDFCCE6B7B0||0|0|0|0||&maxwidth=220&maxheight=160&size=Att

[Cube II]

Hey,
I couldn't find the thread anymore so I didn't reply immediately,
but thanks for the explanation, in the meanwhile I did figure it out on my own
:embarress

Soo I replaced the sender, it fitted ok, same thread, and a mate helped me rewiring the gauge.
It worked ok until a couple of days ago when I disconnected the gauge for refitting the light bulb,
and now it doesn't work anymore...I checked the diagram and wires should be in the right position...

Well we'll fix it again.

:rolleyes

Next it are oil pressure and temp gauges, I bought a brass adaptor/fitting but I realized it only has two ports, so I couldn't refit the stock sender...ouff..................................... ............


There's always something...
:uhoh