Pics of the 110 coming along nicely

[Stmpede]

I took some pics the last time I was home. I still have some others earlier on that I don't have on my computer at the moment, but it should be nearly done now. These were taken a few weeks ago and it should have gone into the paint booth this week I believe!

[Stmpede]

Just got these from the Thanksgiving trip. Its getting there...Slowly!

[JimC]

Looks quality!

[Stmpede]

Thanks Jim. I'm hoping to get it about wrapped up at Christmas break. There is still a lot of work to do though.

[JimC]

Unfortunately Andrew, you're really not fulfilling your obligation of providing us with sufficient rover pr0n. You're going to have to get off your butt, take a lot more pix, and get some better narratives so that we can follow the project better.

:grin

[Stmpede]

Yeah, I know...I'm a disappointment! haha

I'll try to take more pics and give more information when I am home again. I have some new projects in mind that I will document better though.

[themaxx]

It looks like it's coming along great Andrew.

What do you have going on under the driver seat?


Is that your black BMW?

[Stmpede]

Under the driver seat is the panel I made with the new fuse panel & relays for all the auxiliaries that will be installed. I still need to add a couple more relays for the heated seats and, hopefully, the heated steering wheel! :eek:

Yeah, that is the 545i on the right in that one pic and it is the shop at the dealer in the background in most of the others.

[newfD90]

Lookin' good Andrew!!

[Stmpede]

Thanks, I'll get a lot more rover porn and info up here after the holidays.

[Stmpede]

A few new pics. I have a tendency to get caught up in the work and forget to take pics of stuff though.

Anyway, I got about half of the frame cleaned up and POR15'd.
New stainless fuel lines installed.
New stainless hinge bolts installed (the damn body shop painted over the others)
Cleaned and bedlined the rear wheel wells.
Painted the intake manifold & valve covers flat black and sanded the ribs down to show the aluminum.
Installed a new cap/rotor and 8mm Taylor Wires.
Straightened out some goofy rear light wiring that had been hacked up by the PO.
All wiring that I have installed or R&R'd has been upgraded to use Weatherpac connectors instead of the bullet junk that LR used.
Trimmed and installed the final wheel arch.
Realigned the doors and strikers so that they all close nicely.
Removed, cleaned, POR15'd & reinstalled the fuel tank.
POR15'd the rear axle housing (rear cover will be replaced as will the hard brake line in the near future).
Installed new front pads & rotors.
Pulled off a few final interior parts to go to powder coat.

Everything just takes so much longer than you think!

[rmuller]

Lookin' good!

How are you liking that por15? The company is located about 10 minutes from my house, but I have yet to use it... my main question which I can never seem to get anyone to answer... I have metal that has either been painted or powder coated, there are spots that flaked off with rust on it, there are spots that are still fully covered with paint... I know the whole metal ready / marine clean / etc.. process... and that por-15 apparently adheres better to rust... but should I try to get rid of the paint that is currently on there, or just go over it with the por15 as well?

[Stmpede]

I would probably get off anything that comes off easily to start. If there is a lot of paint still on it you can probably get away with just roughing up the surface for adhesion and PORing over it. If most of it comes off easily I would take the time and get the rest off too though. I don't think you will have a problem as long as the paint underneath is well adhered to the metal though. Of course this is all just my impression and I am by no means a chemical engineer for POR15! :grin

[JimC]

You'll get most of the benefit of POR15 by using the metal ready prep solution which is part of the instructions for using the POR15. Its basically a phosphoric acid solution like Ospho. POR15 is a tough paint, but I've had equal luck cleaning and prepping the area with the metal ready, priming and then spray painting. Plus the POR15 isnt UV stable and has to be top coated anyway. I like to use POR15 to paint parts that I dont want to galvanize that arent really seen anyway, like brackets and stuff. I've used a lot of it, some well, and some not so well. It excells where you can coat a part in it on all sides for a nice hard urethane coating.

[Stmpede]

Yeah, I wire brushed & 3M disc'd everything, then used the POR15 and then their chassis coat as a top coat.

[Grover]

Looks great Andrew! Are you going to do any work on the motor?
Keep us posted!

Cheers...

[Stmpede]

Thanks! Well, it already has a 4.5L JE engine so I did the rear main when I was doing the clutch, and now I have removed and painted the Valve Covers, Intake Plenum and Oil Pan and installed the Mocal Sandwich plate with new stainless oil cooler lines. Other than that, I am going to leave it alone. I thought about cutting down the velocity stacks, but that gives more low end at the expense of top end and this thing already makes more than enough low end power. I look forward to really driving it though once I get it back together.

[surf110]

Andrew. What type of bedliner material did you use?

[Stmpede]

IIRC it is made by Duplicolor. It comes in a blue can with black cap and is sold by NAPA. I really like this stuff. I found that by spraying it at different distances you can obtain many different textures. If you spray it close and heavy it will come out in a flat black, sort of hammered look but if you spray a top coat at a distance it gives a gritty non-skid surface. It also is nice b/c it isn't rubbery like undercoating. I also used this on the aluminum housings for the rear tail lights. By spraying it close it gave a really nice finish and looks great on them.

Here it is. (http://www.duplicolor.com/products/truckbed.html)

[Stmpede]

I've been back at work on the 110 and it is really coming together. I need to take some more pictures too (I don't know where the ones of the headliner went) but it came out really nice. Instead of recovering the old one with fabric again, or paying big $$ for the Exmoor one, I reused the old cardboard pieces and coated them.

First I pulled off all the fabric, and used a scrub brush (dry) to remove any remaining foam that was stuck to the fiber board. Next I located any holes that I didn't wish to have show up (there are some additional ones that are hidden by the fabric) and put a layer of fiberglass mat over them from the back. Next I filled the holes with epoxy from the front and painted the whole thing with polyester resin. It takes 2 coats as the first one just soaks into the fiber board. Once that was finished I knocked off any high spots, in some places the fiber board was a little ratty and created high spots when the resin was applied (especially around the holes), with a small grinding disc. Once I was satisfied with it, I painted the pieces with a light gray primer and finally, sprayed a spatter coat over that. It looks great, and a number of people have commented on it when they have seen it in the shop. I'll get some pictures up of it soon, but it will be at least a week before I can get back to work on it.

[diesel_jim]

Looking very nice. I've nearly got my 110 finished too, will have to post some piccies up.

They're great looking trucks though arn't they?

[BEIS]

Andrew, very nice work man! I'm impressed. Looking forward to see it all come together for you.

[Retrofit]

Andrew this is becoming one sweet ride, can't wait to see the headliner, I was wanting to do something of that sort, looking forward to pics.

Hope to see you and your ride in person one day !

Keep up the "excellent" work !

Pat

[130Tdi]

looks good. Fiberglassing the headliner is something I had thought about. Did the additional rigidity make it hard to re-install ?

[cabell]

Looking good Andrew. I'm very interested to see your headliner pics. I cannot find ripple grey vinyl to save my life!

[JimC]

I was also wondering about adding some fiberglass resin to the headliner to stiffen it up, but I was worried about the fact its already sagged a bit and I didn't know if it would be effective. Can we get some more pix?

Sure wish I had a rover dealer to work at...

[Stmpede]

Thanks guys! I am working the Chicago Auto Show 10am-10pm today through next Sun for Land Rover, so I won't get a chance to take any pics before than, but the answers are...

It was a little more difficult getting it installed but not too bad. I would say that if you go the same route, try to keep the overlapping parts as thin as possible (another lesson learned the hard way). I hadn't really thought about that, and it made the install slightly more difficult, but still reasonable. The most difficult part of it was the part I didn't mention. I bought three of the D90 interior lights and wired them all up to newer style door switches (with a nice rubber boot around them) and added one for the rear tailgate too. The trick to the wires is to use tape to hold them to the roof so they are out of your way during the install.

What separated on my headliner was the foam from the fiber board, so the part I reused really hadn't sagged, just the material that had been glued to it. Because of this, the resin worked great. The real reason to use the resin is not even so much to stiffen it, in fact I was worried it would get too stiff, but to give the paint a non-porous surface to adhere to. I did find in one spot that I didn't get quite enough resin and the gray base coat soaked right in leaving a funny "mark" on the headliner. I sanded it down a bit, painted the area with resin again and the resprayed it to fix this, but it is something to keep in mind if you do it. You want to make sure you have good coverage with resin before you try to paint it.

Finally, yes Jim, it is great to be able to work in the shop. A thousand thanks to the GM's at LRW for allowing me to work there!

I'll get some more pics up soon.

[Stmpede]

Ok, finally got around to taking some more pics, and there is a lot more to show now too! The first few pictures are of the headliner, you can also see the new rear view mirror with compass, outside temp sensor and auto dimming. Next is the second batch of parts back from powdercoat. The inner cage, gas tank cradle, seat hardware and rear bumper were in this batch. There are several pictures of the cage all installed now, and you can see the rear speaker panel which I have added a switch for the rear work light and two 12v receptacles. All the lousy bullet connectors have been replaced with Weatherpak connectors that are dust and water resistant. I have two more Hella 3000's to mount and have run the wiring for the already. All the wiring I have added has been run in through custom harnesses using these connectors, carling switches, hella relays etc. One thing that I am really happy with is that I ran all the wiring for the roof top lights through the roll cage in it's own harness so that the wiring is well hidden and protected. I think I am going to shorten the pigtails to the lights a little to keep them a little more out of sight, but I am very pleased with how it is coming now that I am entering the final stages.

Oops, looks like the pictures are all out of order, but I'm sure you guys can see what I was talking about.

[130Tdi]

dude, you do nice work !

[JimC]

Are you actually gonna get your money back on that thing? It looks great though...

[cgalpin]

Looks great! Where did you get the multi-relay block from?

[Stmpede]

Thanks Doug!

Jim, I sure hope so. Actually, I have managed to keep my costs relatively low considering the terminal case of ship-fitter's disease that I came down with. I hate to try to estimate the hours I've poured into it, but I enjoy the brainstorming and time I spend on it as a hobby which makes it all worth it.

Charles, it isn't really a block, but I bought it from Waytek Wire (http://order.waytekwire.com/cgi-bin/lansaweb?procfun+wordpr01+webfunc+M37+FUNCPARMS+WE BCMP%28S0020%29:01+WEBID%28S0020%29:01). They come as individual mounts/connectors that slide together side by side so that you can make the block whatever size you want. Each one has its own mounting hole to attach it to something and the spade terminals that they carry snap in from below. I just bought a bunch (12 IIRC) of Hella 30amp relays off ebay for about $20 and they fit right into the bases. They sell several versions of relays and connectors too though, including waterproof ones. The hella ones I used came with their own mounting brackets built into the housings which I removed with a grinding wheel for a cleaner look.

[Stmpede]

Here are some more pics with the new 305's on the original wheels.

[JimC]

I just realized, you're going to sell it at that Land Rover dealer aren't you? It'll look awful nice parked on the rock pile...

[Stmpede]

I don't know if I am or not. I will probably talk to our GM when it is finished and see if he would let me sell it here on consignment. It does attract a lot of attention sitting here though. I often look out across the street and see people peaking in it, and a lot of people come in for car washes and want to look at it and ask about it when I am working in the shop. It gets great visibility here and people are often more willing to pay a little more when it is at a dealer, so I think it may be worth the commission to sell it here. We'll see...