Sticky Clutch Pedal

[JimC]

I searched the archives but couldnt find anything on this problem:

My clutch pedal does not return all the way out when released, this has happened all of a sudden instead of gradually. You have to pull it out with your foot. It also doesnt seem to engage as positively as before.

Has anyone experienced this problem before? I havent checked the fluid yet or the return spring - I thought I would inform myself before digging.

THX

[Mike Hippert]

I bet you are low on fluid and your MC is on its way out. Don't let the fluid get too low or you will have to bleed it. You can get away driving with it leaking and filling it every couple days for a while, but you will need to replace it eventually.

[read]

I have had the same thing happen to my truck and just like Mike is suspecting it was the fluid.

[Ragland]

Sometimes when the slave cylinder is going out you will see the clear fluid (or its residue) leaking down the firewall. A telltale sign is bubbling paint - fluid will strip it. Check also around the clutch pedal. It may even appear as a little wet spot on the floor board underneath the pedal. Of course those leaking vent seals always leave your floor wet.

[Craigd]

Mine did the same thing. The slave cylinder went out. I also had clutch fluid leaking onto my shoe when I drove. CHeck your fluid, I bet it is low.

[JimC]

Sure enough, there is fluid weeping around the MC, but the bottom of the bell-housing it soaking wet with brake fluid. Topping up the cylinder also improved everything substantially.

How long to R&R the slave? Has anyone had good luck with the seal kits, of is a new slave the way to go? They look like they are pretty cheap <50 dollars.

[Mike Hippert]

I don't know about the slave but my MC lasted about a month while I waited for a warm day to do the Job.

[Berty]

As I stated in my reply to Dillo90's clutch post a bit further down, You are better off changing the master, slave & flexi at the same time. If you don't, the unchanged item will fail shortly after.

[JimC]

Ah, sage wisdom - I will follow it.

[Troys]

May I make a recommendation?

I agree that you should probably change out everything. I have very good and very bad luck with rebuild kits over the years. I am in the process of doing the brake and clutch master and slave cylinders in another one on my vehicles. I am going with silicone fluid because the car has been restored and I don't want the Girling fluid to leak and bubble my paint. I know there are pros and cons to silicone. Just something to think about.

Pros - Easier to find locally(here anyway), will not absorb water, will not eat paint, cool purple color

Cons - A little more expensive, compresses more so the pedal may feel more spongey

Myth - early types did not like rubber parts, wrong formulation of additives, newer versions are supposidly corrected

Just a thought!

Troy

[Ragland]

In '93, I bought a new Wrangler that later experienced a terrible time with defective slave cylinders. The fourth replacement instituted a newly designed part, stopping the trouble. After having been through the routine twice, I began keeping a bottle of brake fluid on hand to re-fill every few days.

The whole affair eventually ate through a lot of paint on either side of the firewall, so I wouldn't recommend going to long with a leak. But if you aren't able to fix it, you can drive so long as fluid is added regularly. Given the relative low cost of the replacement part, and time involved in doing either that or the seal kit, I'd replace the part.

[read]

I bought a replacement master and slave as well as the rebuild kits... Dropped in the new parts for speed (my truck is my DD). Than rebuilt the old ones at my leisure and stored them for the next time they go out.