Errrr, KLUNK?!

[wicks]

What is that klunk from the driveline (toward rear) when you hit the gas, or let off the gas?

Prop shaft?

Diff?

Axle?

T-box (sounds further back)?

[TDI Guy]

Don't forget the a-arm ball joint wicks or a trailing arm bushing.

[chrisvonc]

I would look at the u-joints. Had this kind of noise from the front, and it seemed to be them. I swapped out the whole driveshaft with a spare I had and the noise went away. Just one thing to try.

[Mike Hippert]

Well, I have had three of the above happen, when the rear diff went I had to lock the T-case to move again, when the T-case died I was only able to drive home before it really started grinding, and every U-joint that clunks I can drive until it gets real bad. I say U-joint!

[Doug]

Need to have someone crawl under the truck and listen while you roll it back and forth. (Just don't run them over.) That's how I discovered a bad A-arm ball joint. And later, a cracked front control arm bushing. (Jack be the crawler.)

DW

[wicks]

Thanks gents. By U-JOINTs you mean those which are on the prop shaft?

I'll be making an inspection after I clean & service my bottle jack (DiscoWeb Bulletin Board » Tools and Techniques » Bottle Jack Maintenance?).

[Eric Siepmann]

Wicks,

Where you been? That post was old old old! And It's on this board as well. It was a legit post! The jack works perfectly now and the $$$ saved went into a new Hi-lift and Jack Mate.

And if I remember correctly you replied on this on this board that your brother? had an issue with his jack in his Range Rover Classic? Went Dead? Hmmmm.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Hope your truck doesn't require any major repairs. Course if you go to you local dealer I am sure you'll need to replace your driveline, transmission, and both axles.

EwS

[Mike Hippert]

Don't go to the dealer for a prop shaft U joint (yes thats what I mean and I think everyone else). A friend of mine had all the U-joints replaced by the dealership for the small cost of $1000. The parts should only cost about $100 and I can replace my U-joints in the driveway at 20 degrees with hand-tools in under an hour.

[snuffer]

When you hear the klunk hitting the gas or letting off does it still track down the road correctly.

If its a bushing the vehicle usually pulls one way or the other.

[redrover]

Wicks , it sounds like a u joint or a arm ball joint seeing as you have a 97 auto with a tranny and transfercase that actually can lubricate their own internal parts. What a concept -a part that last over 30,000 miles. But Landys also have a massive amount of backlash in drivelines. Starting with a little play in tranny, then a little play in tranfer, and then a little play in both diffs, and a little play in both ends of axles. If you throttle quick and back off quick- you will hear a small amount of backlash. Its a rover and that will never change. JP

[WCURoverD90]

Sounds like a U-joint to me....But don't know enough about all the other components to make a very educated guess....

[wicks]

Is it best to use a genuine u-joint or one of these from RDS is fine?

www.roversdownsouth.com

[Mike Hippert]

If the RDS U-joints are GKN then they are the same as the genuine U-joints. And yes the GKNs are allot better then most other brands that I have tried. Don't go to the Dealership, I called and they told me they cost over $100 each. PS if I always try to carry a spare as they are small and cheap.

[Berty]

Sounds like normal wear in the drivetrain to me. All Autos do it eventually. It's taking up all the slack!