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View Full Version : hot stumbling, stalling.. (continues)


revtor
July 11th, 2008, 04:11 PM
(I wish I could post happy summer adventure stories...)

any good mechanics in NJ/PA/NY/CT? who do you bring your truck to?


Guys, I got my truck back from the shop.... they had it for two weeks, ended up installing new parts galore (replacing the ones I recntly installed).. but my problem came back one day later. After they said it was all good. What should I do. Any good mechanics in NJ/PA/NY/CT? Anyone want a stab at this? I'm done with it and I dont really feel like dropping it off with the same guys again. I will call them of course, but I dont want them to just throw parts at the damn thing anymore.

problem:
When my engine gets up to temp and has been running for 10-15 minutes, it stumbles off idle, and wont hold idle for more than 20-30 seconds.
New dist, vac advance, temp sensor, idle stepper motor, coil, fuel filter. Im going to get a vac gauge and check it cold vs hot.

I got an HEI distributor from HEI Dizzy (ebay) and my mech said no way it will fit. I knew it would require grinding and a bit of f-ing with but they were having no part of it. Anyone on the board install one of these? I'd love to get rid of more Lucas.

sorry to rant and bitch but I'm so ready to get rid of this thing.

any good mechanics in NJ/PA/NY/CT?

~Steve

xrover
November 4th, 2008, 10:04 PM
Figured I would reply to this one, since I just had a stalling issue. Checked the usual suspects (no thrown codes, fuel pressure good etc). What it appears to have been is a sticky throttle. Easier to show live, but try and visualize this. You come home at night and turn off the truck. The throttle does not go back all the way and instead sits 1/8" from full close due to it sticking. In the morning you start up the vehicle (I never touch the throttle when starting), so now the throttle position and maf calculate fuel and air based on this 'starting' position. You hit your first light and everything is fine (still running a bit cold). Get on the highway, and now when you pull off and stop at the next light, the throttle position moves back to fully closed, which is now further than it's "starting" position, and the truck idles down and stalls. She'll start fine. So after lubing the springs and the cables and leaving some slack in the idle adjustment, she's running fine with no stalling. And it cost nothing (assuming you already own a can of lube).
Hopefully yours is that simple.

Tim Scully
November 6th, 2008, 09:27 AM
So many things can cause these problems. Have you replaced the cap, rotor and ignitor. Do you have the ignitor relocation kit that puts it the ignitor by the coil??? If you replace the cap and rotor make sure you use factory stuff not aftermarket...

revtor
November 6th, 2008, 10:31 AM
Truck has been sold.

Hans
February 10th, 2009, 12:27 PM
Figured I would reply to this one, since I just had a stalling issue. Checked the usual suspects (no thrown codes, fuel pressure good etc). What it appears to have been is a sticky throttle. Easier to show live, but try and visualize this. You come home at night and turn off the truck. The throttle does not go back all the way and instead sits 1/8" from full close due to it sticking. In the morning you start up the vehicle (I never touch the throttle when starting), so now the throttle position and maf calculate fuel and air based on this 'starting' position. You hit your first light and everything is fine (still running a bit cold). Get on the highway, and now when you pull off and stop at the next light, the throttle position moves back to fully closed, which is now further than it's "starting" position, and the truck idles down and stalls. She'll start fine. So after lubing the springs and the cables and leaving some slack in the idle adjustment, she's running fine with no stalling. And it cost nothing (assuming you already own a can of lube).
Hopefully yours is that simple.


Interesting concept, I'm suffering from a similar problem myself so I'll look into it.