New differential questions...

[wicks]

Inland Rovers has determined that all the noise on deceleration is coming from my rear diff. Unknown why it only whines on deceleration. Looks like I need to redo it soon. Questions are:

1) He says it is the ring & pinion. Does it make sense to install GBR 4:1 ring & pinion, actually wouldn't I have to do that in front at the same time?

2) Going to install a TrueTrac diff carrier at the same time. Wondering if I can order this setup alredy built up by someone and just bolt it in there, exchange my core diff?

3) I don't know diffs, so I am wondering if it is simple to install ring & pinion, and at that time is the whole diff apart and can one just drop in a TrueTrac without much more time, or is it a matter of taking more bearing apart, etc.

Complicated little bit of harware back there...

[Glenn_Guinto]

Wicks,

GBR sells completed third member kits with your choice of gearing and lockers pre-installed. Drop your old third member, swap in the new one. I think this is the cleanest, easiest option.

I don't know if Rovertracks does the same. Maybe Keith can pitch in.

Goodluck!

[wicks]

Thanks Glenn. Does "third member" mean the differential, from the end of the prop shaft to the axles?

[Glenn_Guinto]

That's right Wicks. Sometimes refered to as the "pumpkin". There are articles on discoweb about this. I would find the link for you but Discoweb is having some DNS issues at the moment. But when it's up, it's under the "Tech" section, I think it's titled 3rd Member Install or something to that effect.

[Mike Hippert]

Ahh the sound of crunching gears in the rear diff. Thats what happened to me on the way to work one morning. I would go with Glenn, replace the hole rebuilt third and you don't have to mess around with the gears or the locker install. If you re-gear the back you HAVE to re-gear the front.

A little info on our own site ARB install (http://www.d-90.com/tech/arb.html) to give you an idea whats involved. Good luck!

[chrisvonc]

One addition...
You have to do both the front and rear 4:10's at the same time if you are going to go with them. And if you are going to have your diffs swapped out, might as well do it while you are at it.

[Mike Hippert]

Mr. Admin, did you miss part of my post?



If you re-gear the back you HAVE to re-gear the front.

:grin

[Glenn_Guinto]

Ah...thanks for the link Mr. Moderator :grin. Shame on me for not realizing we have that here...LOL Looks pretty well detailed too.

[chrisvonc]

LOL... technically I didnt when I started typing my reply as you had not yet posted yours. I got called away and posted when I came back.

[Mike Hippert]

AHH, when that happens to me I Cut, then refresh and Paste if needed.

Wicks, does it feel like you need lower gears?

[m.olivares]

adam,
before you get to excited about GBR's gears call Bill, it's my understanding that he's back ordered on the gear sets and my be a while before they are in stock.

marc

[wicks]

Thanks for the advice fellas.

Yes, 4th gear is useless except for 90MPH downhills and the car would be a bit quicker with lower gearing.

[Buckon37s]

Hey Wicks,

The 4.11 are even weaker than the stock gears you have broken. Have you ever thought about switching the 1.2 t-case you have now with a 1.4? I have a 1.4 and might be interested in trading to a 1.2. I just need to do some math first.

[scoloco]

I've got a set of 4.10 diffs on order from GBR. The R&P are indeed backordered, so there will be a delay.

David, changing the tcase from 1.2 to 1.4 will help, but not that much right? And it will only help on the road in high range - trail work in low range will be unaffected.
The 4.11 cant be that much weaker than than the 3.55 (I know lotsa folks that run 4.56 and 4.88 in other 4x4s without much trouble). Weaker yes, but that much weaker?

[Buckon37s]

Hey Scott,

I see you are in Seattle. Thats where I grew up, I miss it. You are right on the T-case. It will provide about 15% reduction for on road only but does not lower the low range. The diff gears will lower both. On the weak issue, it will depend on who you talk to. There are a lot of different opinions. Sure, there are lots of other people running low gears in different trucks. You could run 5.29's in a 9in with a very small chance of breaking. You can run 6.24's in a 2.5 toploader and never break it. But, (and this is my opinion) the 8in rover ring gear with a poor design is just not strong. The 4.11 has more teeth which means it gets smaller and weaker. Now, Bill heat treats his gears to make probably the strongest gears possible for the application, but they are still weaker than the stock ones. Even if he dipped them in Cryptonite.

So, if you have smaller than 35's and a light foot you will be fine with the 4.10. A lot of people have ran them for a long time, even with 37's so anything is possible. If you have stock axles, those will break first anyway. Hope this helps.

In my opinion, dropping the coin for 4.10s, around $500 last time a checked, then adding a locker, ARB is $650 then adding bling axles(still toothpicks) $600 then set up $400 you have dropped $2,150 to polish a turd. Thats just insane when Rover Tracks has a great rear axle option, not sure on the price. And NSO can build you 9in with damn hard to break bits for $2500 or so. If you wanted to outbling us all you could go for the 1.75in 40 spline cromo axles for not much more. You would never be able to break that set up. But I digress......

[evilfij]

Wicks,

The noise on D-cel is common in this era vehicle. It is not the RandP but is infact spider wear in the diff itself. (I have one here that has a least 25 thou of movement). The gears actually eat into the case.

You can check to be sure without pulling it. Basically you can poke at the spiders through the fill hole if the diff is in the right place.

Ron