home-made rock sliders

[Chris Cox]

Just wanted to get some input from you guys on the construction of rocksliders. I have started building them already, but haven't welded anything yet, until I get you guys' approval:grin . I am using 2" x 3" 3/16" wall tubing for the main part of the slider. It seems to me that most sliders I have seen are 1-1/2" x 3" tubing, but I want mine to stick out a little further. I am making a bracket out of 1/4" plate that will attach a 1-5/8" OD pipe to the rock slider at the rear, which will slide into the tubular outrigger on the chassis. I will probably weld a short piece of solid bar into the end of the pipe, and then tap it for a bolt. I will use a grade 8 bolt and homemade washer to keep the pipe from sliding out of the outrigger. On the front, I plan on using 3" x 3" angle, 1/4" thick, on the front and back of where the bulkhead attaches to the chassis. The angle will be braced with some 1/4" plate back to the slider. The bolt that attaches the bulkhead to chassis will run through both pieces of angle. Also, I plan on running a 2" piece of flat bar (3/16") down the back side of the rock slider, just to strengthen them up a little bit. Sorry I don't have pics, and sorry if what I just typed isn't coherent, been some long days and nights at work. Any comments are appreciated, as I don't want to put these things together and not have them hold up.

Thanks again.

chris

[TDI Guy]

Chris, I will be doing something similar but, I an using 2 1/2x2 1/2 square tube... Is 1 5/8 the proper size of tube? I thought it was bigger?


Randy

[Chris Cox]

Randy, I measuered the inside of the tubular outrigger on my truck. Came out to be 1.73". The 1-3/4" OD pipe was too big to fit. Yeah, you could probably drive it in, but you would never get it out. The pipe I am using is about 1.625", and by time you put a little copper grease on it, it should feel that very small gap nicely. Someone else may have thoughts on this. The 1-5/8" pipe would probably work better on your truck, as it has been galvanized, and the ID of your outrigger is probably a little smaller than mine ( I am working on my SW, which has not been galvanized).

Chris

[dave_lucas]

Chris,

No need to use a washer and bolt on the back side of the frame. That is how I did it before I changed to the following design.

http://www.slickrockfabrication.com/chu90.htm

In the 5th pic down you will notice how I now use a bolt that holds the slider in place rather than using a washer and bolt on the rear of the frame. I feel that this is better because it allows dirt and water to drain out of the tube where a washer would hold it in

One other important item that you should also consider is adding a brace to the front mount as seen in the 4th pic down. If you do not add a brace like the one seen in the pic you run a chance of having the slider rotate into front fender.

[mudrover]

Ok, this is somewhat relevent...I built some sliders for my RR, but the idea could be used for the D90. Simple take some tube or square stock. I used some 2" square stock, 1/4" thickness, which had lying around. Weld 2 outriggers that will go to the frame. Weld plates onto those outriggers and weld to the frame. Cheap easy simple. Took me a couple of hours. Here are some pics, let me know if you want more.

Randy, I have about 15' of 2.5" x 2.5", 1/4" wall square if you need it. I paid 6.19 a foot for it.

[mudrover]

Peeerdy welds:

[TDI Guy]

thanks pete. i will call you. Where can a get a few feet of the tubing? Chris, any ideas?


Randy

[mudrover]

The place I use, Tioga Pipe, only sells stick 20' feet at a time...I also have 1.75" .120 DOM if you need it .

[Chris Cox]

Just call any local welding shop. They usually have all kinds of steel laying around that they will cut to length for you. That is a good idea about mounting the front to the frame horn, rather than just the big bolt.