NAS 110 145/500 Restoration

[JimC]

Now that there is some progress and plans, I guess its time to start a thread dedicated to this resto.

I bought the truck in late 07: http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13597

Some choice quotes from that thread:

WhiteD90: "it looks like it is in decent shape"

Wrong!

JimC: "I've seen worse"

Wrong!

Recent quote from evilfij: "I don't know if I've ever seen worse."

In all fairness, I might have seen worse sitting on ECR's lot, but that question is purely academic.

First, I've pulled the cage and had it powder coated, pix to come.

The most recent progress is freshly blasted and galvanized parts...

[surf110]

Looking good Jim. Any warping on the bulkhead?
Please post some pics of the tear down.

[Stmpede]

Looking good Jim. Please post some pics of the tear down.x2

All that Galv. sure looks Purty! :)

[JimC]

There was a little warping on the bulkhead - you can see in pic 4 that the center panel, which is only one sheet thick and not boxed in, has a series of ripples in it. That's kind of a bummer, but hardly a big problem. I'm assuming of course that the bulkhead is still square...

Anyway, here are some pix of what I'm starting with. Not good. And it only gets worse.

[Stmpede]

That brings back memories...My bulkhead and rear cross member were a lot worse, but it looks like your doors and door sills are in worse shape. Where did that one spend it's life Jim? Mine was orig. registered in FL, but spent the vast majority of it's life in MI.

[JimC]

This was a one-owner truck which lived its life in central New Jersey. I'm guessing that some of this stuff showed up before the corrosion warranty expired, but it would have been unlike the owner to do any maintenance or take care of the truck in any way.

[Lucasd2002]

How many new doors are you buying (or did you buy)?

[bjf]

Andrew

What did you do about your bulkhead?

[WhiteD90]

[QUOTE=JimC]Now that there is some progress and plans, I guess its time to start a thread dedicated to this resto.



Some choice quotes from that thread:

WhiteD90: "it looks like it is in decent shape"

Wrong!

QUOTE]

Well I was...

A) making you feel good by comparing it to the relative shape of mine
B) looking at pictures you sent...Distance is a rusty 110s best friend
C)letting my brain tumor get the best of me that day

Take your pick...

I'll be watching this, I'm a bit behind you with but with similar plans. Take lots of pics and good notes please!

[evilfij]

I also mentioned to Jill that it was basically a $30,000 title.

[ECR]

In all fairness, I might have seen worse sitting on ECR's lot, but that question is purely academic.


Nah... really??
:) :)

[JimC]

Mike - you win.

Ron, in all fairness, its not a 30k title. Its a 30k SD roll cage with a title. And the fender flares are good.

And Tis, I'm not impugning your powers of perception, just highlighting the big difference between how it looks and how it actually is :)

[Stmpede]

Andrew

What did you do about your bulkhead?I replaced the Bulkhead, Seat Box, BC Pillars and all 5 doors with new ones. I probably could have repaired all but the 5th door and bulkhead, but due to the extent of my rebuild anyway it seemed better to just replace everything, especially because I apparently was buying parts at the right time. It seems like the price for doors and bulkheads has really drastically increased in the last couple of years.

[bjf]

Damn my 110 is looking better every day. I have the dash out right now and the back side of my bulkhead looks new. My biggest issue is right below the windshield on the passenger side. Plus a hole close to the floor. I am convinced the AC had to have done this but not sure.

[cgalpin]

But you bought it sight unseen (other than pictures) right?

Chassis and drivetrain no good? Even if you are putting a diesel in, the old engine should fetch something no?

[JimC]

I actually went and saw the truck when the PO was asking a higher price, and I passed on it once, but left a standing offer for what I thought it was worth (25k). He called me a few months later after several buyers fell through and we came to 30k as a price. My memory must have clouded in the meantime. Thing broke down within 150 miles after my wife picked it up. I'm not counting on much being able to be sold off..

[evilfij]

I'm not counting on much being able to be sold off..

I was like a circling vulture.

[surf110]

I could put my hand through my old bulkhead.
The bonnet was just attached on one side.

Jim. I have a set of NAS 110 middle doors complete that are in much better shape than yours. Special price for Moderators.

Went to the DMV today to get title changed to diesel.
Guy comes out, looks around for 2 secs and says: "I just have to make sure it says diesel on the engine." Then he fills out a quick form and I'm good to go. Woohoo!
Go back inside, turn in my title. New title coming in the mail in 4 weeks.
The whole process took 45 mins with scheduled appointment.
SMOG EXEMPT FOR LIFE!
Go figure...

[JimC]

Good news on the title Ze - All I had to do in WA with the yellow truck was to fill out a piece of paper. And thanks for the door offer, but I've already got a decent set which Pendy is fixing up for me.

Follow-up Post:

I was like a circling vulture.

My rear ladder was damaged. Ron gave me a perfect one a while back. He then comes to my house and sees the damaged one and asks whats wrong with it. I point out the damage. Ron carries the ladder off and puts it in his truck.

[Ren Ching]

sounds like a familiar story...one man's junk...I know people who go to the dump to shop for tires. Speaking of which- Ron, I may have a buyer for your chassis...

Ron carries the ladder off and puts it in his truck.

[JimC]

Here is the color I'm going to paint it - LRC 374 Cornish Cream. It was on some South Africa spec trucks for a while under the name "Sandstone." First pic is an actual truck painted that color, second one is a photoshop job of the look I'm going for. I didn't want stock, but I also didn't want to go way out there with Oslo Blue or Tangiers Orange. So this will be subtly different and I like the "heritage" look of the color.

[evilfij]

sounds like a familiar story...one man's junk...I know people who go to the dump to shop for tires. Speaking of which- Ron, I may have a buyer for your chassis...

Sweet on the buyer. L. Rover PMed me and made an offer and I said call me and we will set it up, but he never got back to me.

Ron

[cgalpin]

Here is the color I'm going to paint it - LRC 374 Cornish Cream. It was on some South Africa spec trucks for a while under the name "Sandstone." First pic is an actual truck painted that color, second one is a photoshop job of the look I'm going for. I didn't want stock, but I also didn't want to go way out there with Oslo Blue or Tangiers Orange. So this will be subtly different and I like the "heritage" look of the color.

I love it. I think I'm going to have to copy you on this one some day :)

[evilfij]

L. Rover Pmed me back Ren Ching.

[Ren Ching]

I love it. I think I'm going to have to copy you on this one some day :)you mean you are going to use photoshop to plan your next color scheme?

like this?

[cgalpin]

OMG that's hillarious! Yes exactly!

[Ren Ching]

now all we need is Ron to pop in and provide some captioning.

OMG that's hillarious! Yes exactly!

[cgalpin]

I'd like to see puke green on the bottoms of the middle doors please, and white tops (on the middle doors - front tops should be black). ROFL

[cabell]

My '95 lwb that was squashed by a semi was cornish cream. Awesome color!

[kbuby]

Pretty good looking 110. I love the color, gives a nice touch to it

[Neil McCauley]

Nice, borat likes. What was that anniversary color in the light duck egg sorta green? (I know duck egg was wot they painted the series blocks but they did a similar greenish color that I know someone here remembers on some heritage 90's)

[evilfij]

Atlantic Green. It was lighter than the series color pastel green.

[JimC]

Yeah, the heritage defenders came in Bronze Green (LRC619) and Atlantic Green (LRC726).

http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1725

Follow-up Post:

This makes me think we need a color reference thread, I'll go start one.

[cgalpin]

We need a wiki..

[JimC]

We seriously need a wiki

[evilfij]

I can write sections of it but I have no idea how to use wiki (other than read it and bitch about what is wrong to people IRL).

[JimC]

Its usually as simple to use as a text editor

[JimC]

Got some parts back from the paint shop. Paint is over galv, so the parts of the bulkhead that are hidden when the truck is assembled still have that texture showing. One pic shows the difference between the LRC 374 Cornish Cream and an Alpine White truck. Its obviously an "Olde English White" color, but not brownish or yellowy in any way.

[bjf]

that a chip in your paint?
does it matter if you get paint on the vent screens?

[JimC]

Oh no, that's not a chip, its a rivet hole that still has some zinc in it from being galvanized, that'll come right out.

The screens got filled in with galv too, so I'll just cut them out and use earlier screens. The Td5 bulkhead had them welded in, previously they were separate pieces.

[airbornrover]

came across someones personal land rover website. they did the same thing you did with forgetting to remove the screens when they galv'ed their bulkhead. ended up using a blowtorch to heat up the zinc and blowing it off with an air hose pressured below 10 psi i believe.

pretty sure this is the website http://www.rustyrovers.co.uk/

Follow-up Post:

edit
paragraph where he talks about his solution is near the end of page two of the "gronk" rebuild page.

[bjf]

Looks good. Is it better to remove the excess zinc in the rivet holes before painting?

[JimC]

Looks good. Is it better to remove the excess zinc in the rivet holes before painting?

Almost certainly, a case of mis-communication between me and the body shop.

I might just try that technique with the torch - It would ahv eto burn off the paint first, but it could work. Can't hurt (too much) to try.

[JimC]

Made some good progress this week. I wasn't able to get my replacement chassis in time, so I'm having to repair this one, which is a bummer. Now I need bulkhead outriggers...

I'll post more pix when I get on my own computer.

[evilfij]

If you can drive to buffalo, you can have mine (galvy chassis that is).

[JimC]

Here are some photos from the disassembly process - it will be nice to reassemble and not have the primary tools be the sawzall and angle grinder.

Follow-up Post:

Wow, that is BS how the photo resizer inserted that text in the photos. Oh well, more later.

[cgalpin]

Remind me what you are doing chassis wise? You mention a replacement chassis abov, but I see you put on a rear cross member in the pics.

[evilfij]

Cgalpin, read three posts up.

[cgalpin]

must.......learn.......to........read!

[JimC]

More stripping - she's down to a bare frame now and I'm waiting on the arrival of some parts. Then its off for blasting and galv. I was waffling on whether or not to galv this chassis, since the britpart pieces will make it somewhat inferior to stock, but after some consideration, I just don't want to half-ass it even if its not the best thing ever.

[evilfij]

Take the long bracket that supports the front of the tub and the middle floor brackets off before you galvanize it and please let us know where you find the brake line and fuel line clips. If when you blast the frame there are no holes it it or really thin spots, the galvy should be fine and almost as good as new.

Ron

[JimC]

I find the brake and fuel line clips in my stash since I ordered them in quantity when I did the yellow truck. I'll probably have to order some more, so I can get a few extra.

The cross bar is already off, and the other stuff will be. I won't fuse anything to the chassis with galv...

[FlaD90]

Jim,

How is this project going?

[evilfij]

"I won't fuse anything to the chassis with galv..."

Concern is that galvy won't get between the two parts and you will have nice holes there after a while.

[JimC]

"I won't fuse anything to the chassis with galv..."

Concern is that galvy won't get between the two parts and you will have nice holes there after a while.

Ron - this is me you're talking to - what are the chances I'd leave anything attached to the chassis? I'm the guy with a Swagelok fuel system in the 90...

Jim,

How is this project going?

Well, I did most of this last week, so I think its going ok...

[dave_lucas]

Man that thing is rusty :(

You are a saint for saving it :cool: No doubt that it will be a top notch ride when you are done with it as you always do a great job (I still remember when you wanted to send me a sheet of TI to make you a skid plate... talk about overkill)

Note to self, stop bitching about the 500 gallons of waxoil that the PO used on my 1984 90" :lol

[evilfij]

Ok JimC, I was just thinking you might not know they came off if you were in a rush. ;)

[JimC]

More misc pix

[Cirbo]

Nice work Dood.... and your woman helps?? It's all I can do to get mine out to help me bleed the brakes. (although she is stellar at wine delivery while I'm working:toast )

So, remind me again why we like these rusty hulks?

jC

[WhiteD90]

Nice work Dood.... and your woman helps?? It's all I can do to get mine out to help me bleed the brakes. (although she is stellar at wine delivery while I'm working:toast )

So, remind me again why we like these rusty hulks?

jC

What's that badge you have...Bloody Knuckles?

Jim, is that your space or do you just have garage friends all over the country? Subscribed, can't wait to see how your rig develops.

[JimC]

Yeah, the Frau helps whenever she can. She likes getting her hands dirty on this stuff. She can even change the oil and fuel filter! :)

Bloodly knuckles have been dramatically reduced this time due to the judicious application of air tools, angle grinders, and my close friend Dewalt Cordless Sawzall.

With respect to the space - its the Auto Craft Shop at West Point. Most bases have a place where you can change your oil, swap exhausts etc, but usually they don't let you leave the vehicle overnight or have other restrictive rules. Fortunately here the manager is really cool and is easy to work with as long as you pay your bill and clean up after yourself. A lift makes life so much better...

[dmarchand]

I would kill for that kind of garage space and help! My sankey rebuild project is taking up my entire garage and is a one-man show.

Looks terrific Jim.

[Bozman]

With respect to the space - its the Auto Craft Shop at West Point. Most bases have a place where you can change your oil, swap exhausts etc, but usually they don't let you leave the vehicle overnight or have other restrictive rules. Fortunately here the manager is really cool and is easy to work with as long as you pay your bill and clean up after yourself. A lift makes life so much better...

One of the biggest perks about being in the military . . . the auto shop. When I was stationed in Hawaii, the Schofield shop had a professional spray booth, storage bins you could rent, and several bays dedicated to full restorations, so you could rent by the month. Otherwise it was like $5 an hour for a bay, with a lift.

Totally awesome.

[GYM]

One of the biggest perks about being in the military . . . the auto shop. When I was stationed in Hawaii, the Schofield shop had a professional spray booth, storage bins you could rent, and several bays dedicated to full restorations, so you could rent by the month. Otherwise it was like $5 an hour for a bay, with a lift. .Wow, things have beocme more relaxed. When I was stationed at Fort Carson, CO years ago, the auto shop rules were very tight - to include no vehicle "modifications" of any kind. I was banned for trying to surreptitiously install a set of headers on my car.

[Bozman]

Wow, things have beocme more relaxed. When I was stationed at Fort Carson, CO years ago, the auto shop rules were very tight - to include no vehicle "modifications" of any kind. I was banned for trying to surreptitiously install a set of headers on my car.

It was Hawaii . . . hang loose, brah!

[JimC]

This is the most lax auto shop I've been too. I went to one that didn't allow welding, and another where they had to have one of the staff do the welding. This is working out really well.

Chassis goes for blasting on Monday.

[cgalpin]

Yeah loved the auto shop in the army (and woodworking shop). They even had tool rentals!

[airbornrover]

All depends on the manager of the shop and the vibe they get off you. I spent 6 months nights and weekends when i had to pull the engine and place a new one in at Bragg on the old Coscom side. :grin Kept me out of trouble since i was a Rigger. ;)

[JimC]

OK, some interim pix are missing, but here is the state that things are in right now.

The chassis is back from the galvanizer (it only cost 250 to galv all the parts sitting on the trailer, including the chassis). Tub is just sitting there temporarily since I've got no other place for it.

I've finished up the disc conversion on the rear axle, which was actually a lot of fun. The machined bracket from Keith K makes everything bolt up perfectly. Since I was in there, I blasted the axle, replaced the wheel bearings and all the seals. Had the wheels painted silver too. You can see my personal garage is a bit more cramped than the autoshop on base...

Parts for the front axle are cleaned up and ready for reassembly. I hate reassembling dirty nasty parts, so I bead blasted and painted everything. Hope to get the front axle reassembled and have the chassis in the garage by this time next week...

[bjf]

Looks awesome.
Couple questions:
How hard is it to take apart the hood to galvanize the frame? I want to do that to my 110 but I don't want to destroy the paint on the hood.

Also how hard is to do the disc conversion. I don't need brakes but I can see doing this when my current brakes are worn.

Keep it up. Love it.

[JimC]

Some have reported it was really easy to get the hood frame out, but mine wasn't so easy. I did do it without ruining the paint (though I'm getting new paint anyway) but it took 2-3 hours of fiddling to get it out because mine still had a lot of adhesive in there.

The rear a brake conversion is super easy. If you would have done your own brakes anyway, then it would be no challenge. It costs a few $$$ if you go and buy all new parts for it, but I already had a spare set of D90 rear calipers and I got the Rangie hubs for free on a swap, so all I bought was discs, seals, and the modified brackets from Keith.

[evilfij]

I envy your door frames.

[FlaD90]

Great work so far Jim...I cant wait to see the finished product.

[Tyler Wirken]

Nice. Yeah all of that galvy stuff is pretty sweet! My local galvanizers are not that good as I am not totally happy with my frame. Yours looks great. Mine had a bunch of buildup on it and I had to sit there with a torch and melt it off in places. That sucked.

Hey on the disc brake conversion. Does it use D-90 hubs as well as calipers and rotors? Also did you just spray paint the rear axle casing? I am still debating what I am going to do with mine. Paint for powder coat.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Tyler

[TDI Guy]

Looks Great Jim..

[evilfij]

Nice. Yeah all of that galvy stuff is pretty sweet! My local galvanizers are not that good as I am not totally happy with my frame. Yours looks great. Mine had a bunch of buildup on it and I had to sit there with a torch and melt it off in places. That sucked.

Hey on the disc brake conversion. Does it use D-90 hubs as well as calipers and rotors? Also did you just spray paint the rear axle casing? I am still debating what I am going to do with mine. Paint for powder coat.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Tyler

You use non-ABS range rover hubs.

[JimC]

Hey on the disc brake conversion. Does it use D-90 hubs as well as calipers and rotors? Also did you just spray paint the rear axle casing? I am still debating what I am going to do with mine. Paint for powder coat.

Any thoughts?

Thanks
Tyler

Evil answered the hubs part.

And yeah, I rattle-canned the axles, but that is really just to make them black. Beforehand I had them sandblasted and painted with a zinc-rich epoxy primer which is supposed to be just as good as galv, but isn't a dip - so it doesn't do the inside of stuff.

[JimC]

Yesterday was really wet, but I had work to do. I got the finished axles under the chassis, dropped in the motor, and stuck the bulkhead on. Still a bit of work to do, but its great to have something that looks like a truck again.

[Tyler Wirken]

Looking sweet! So are the wheels galvy or just silver?
So when you did the disk conversion what axles did you use as the drum ones I have heard are too short for disc hubs etc..... Did you just buy stock disc axles?

Keep up the good work. Love the color. Did I see the heads and plenu
the same color?

[JimC]

Thanks Tyler!
1) Wheels are just silver paint over zinc primer.
2) I did the disc conversion on the original drum axle using RRC non-abs hubs and D90/D1 rear calipers and discs.
3) The motor is the 4.6 that MattDH built for the pastel green truck, I bought it from Nikojo who is putting in a 2.8 TGV. The valve covers, plenum, and oil pan are white, which doesn't make a lot of sense for this truck. I'll replace all that some time later, but right now I just need to get everything together...

[EWR]

Lookin good Jim! :cool:

[bjf]

what are your plans for the inside?
dash, seats, etc?

[Tyler Wirken]

I am dying to know how the 4.6 does in a 110. I am really thinking about swapping one in for my 4.0.

So just to clarify were you able to reuse the orig axle shafts or were they to short after the conversion to discs? I promise I will stop asking about the rear axle soon!

Later.

[EWR]

The 4.6 is nice in a 110, if it's in front of a 5 speed. If you're truck has an auto conversion, it's so-so....just my .02
I think that all auto's kill any performance in a 90 or 110.

[JimC]

Thanks for the good words everyone.

I'm getting an r380 and a 1.2 t-case, and I'm also really curious to see how it all does in the 110. I still need to get the right computer set-up to get everything optimized, but that's a bit down the road.

Plans for the inside are to get rid of all the grey color. The new style door cards are all black and I'll get rid of the carpet and use rubber mats and line-x for the tub, but I'm not going overboard with that stuff. I'm planning on putting in the Melville and Moon canvas seat covers since the canvas should look good with the exterior color. I've got a new-style bulkhead, so its a good time to switch to the new-style dash. I"m thinking about painting the window trims a light tan color so the inside will just be black and tan.

And Tyler - I used the original axles shafts - they're fine.

[cgalpin]

Looks sweet!

[bjf]

Are you doing the new style dash?

[EWR]

Are you doing the new style dash?

He said so....read his post

[bjf]

Ah I see it.

[rover26c]

Are you doing the new style dash?
Second, "I've got a new-style bulkhead, so its a good time to switch to the new-style dash"

[bjf]

Yeah I got it. jeez!

[JimC]

I am dying to know how the 4.6 does in a 110. I am really thinking about swapping one in for my 4.0.

So just to clarify were you able to reuse the orig axle shafts or were they to short after the conversion to discs? I promise I will stop asking about the rear axle soon!

Later.


Tyler - to clarify this, you use the same stub axles, so nothing changes in the distance from the diff to the drive flange. Literally all that happen in this conversion is you get hubs that have holes for a disc, and you bolt a caliper bracket to the axle flange instead of the drum brake backing plate. I've got a ton of pix, I'll post them when I can.

[woldd90]

Damn Jim, your 110 looks great... If the Army doesn't work out maybe you could work with Fidel.

Post more pics when you can.

[TDI Guy]

Big step Jim... You have a roller. Thats a good feeling. ITs all down hill.. Maybe a little bumpy but down hill.

[Gkase]

Jim...great stuff...excellent work!
George

[JimC]

Here are some from last weekend.

After galvanizing the bulkhead, replacing the outriggers and galvanizing the chassis, the holes were only off by a fraction of an inch, so I was pretty happy. A quick squeeze with a clamp and the bolt slid right through the hole.

There's a shot of the gas tank blasted and coated in the now-ubiquitous zinc-rich primer. I'll shoot it black with Rustoleum before I install it.

And lastly is a pic of the t-supports on. Looks like mine were damaged in shipping, so I'm going to have a little extra hassle installing them, but overall, the body lines are lining up well. We'll see if I remain this luck when its time to adjust the door gaps.

Next step is finish prepping the tub and get it out for paint.

[cgalpin]

So what's the process Jim? You test fit it all, then disassemble, paint and re-assemble? Did you just want to make sure you didn't have any issues before doing another paint run?

[JimC]

Pretty much. I just wanted to make sure I didn't have any major fit issues before I fully committed to the paint. I didn't test fit the body between fixing the rear crossmember and replacing the bulkhead outriggers, so I kind of skipped a step there since I ran out of time.

[cgalpin]

Ok makes sense. I forgot about the frame changes - I was thinking the tub came right off that truck so why would it need test fitting :)

Looking good btw.

[evilfij]

Don't forget shim, shim, shim don't bend bend bend.

Make sure you put the washed on the big bulkhead bolts in the right places too.

The bulkhead is really the only part that does not have any fudge room (other than washers), the rest you can really make up for the gaps with adjustments and washers/shims.

Ron

[GYM]

Was it your plan all along to go w/ the gas V8 vs a Tdi in your 110, or was the 4.6 just in the right place at the right time??

[JimC]

A@ Garth - I was going to go with a tdi until I got orders to Germany, where they actually inspect to see what motor is in your vehicle. I could put a tdi in, but unless it was Euro-IV compliant, then I actually couldn't drive it to the installation where I'll be assigned. The new German laws restrict certain vehicles from certain cities based on emissions.

As far as aligning the body, Ron is right, pretty much all you can do with the bulkhead is lean it and use washers to move it fore and aft. Everything else can (and needs to be) shimmed into place.

[EWR]

A@ Garth - I was going to go with a tdi until I got orders to Germany, where they actually inspect to see what motor is in your vehicle. I could put a tdi in, but unless it was Euro-IV compliant, then I actually couldn't drive it to the installation where I'll be assigned. The new German laws restrict certain vehicles from certain cities based on emissions.

As far as aligning the body, Ron is right, pretty much all you can do with the bulkhead is lean it and use washers to move it fore and aft. Everything else can (and needs to be) shimmed into place.

I thought someone on this board said they're like giant erector sets and "just" bolt together :)

Sounds like you're having a good time Jim, keep the pics coming!

[JimC]

Lots of parts back from the paint shop, and they really did a good job. I was pretty specific about not wanting the spot welds filled in or sanded, and they actually got it right. They also did a fabulous job of re-skinning my rear doors - I'm just overall quite pleased.

Things are coming together quite nicely. The string test indicates that the tub is lined up perfectly with the bulkhead, the door gaps are coming out with a perfect 3/16 gap front and back, and even the b-pillars are in the right spot.

Things would be going faster if lazy kitty would pick up a wrench.

[JohnsD90]

Lots of parts back from the paint shop, and they really did a good job. I was pretty specific about not wanting the spot welds filled in or sanded, and they actually got it right. They also did a fabulous job of re-skinning my rear doors - I'm just overall quite pleased.

Things are coming together quite nicely. The string test indicates that the tub is lined up perfectly with the bulkhead, the door gaps are coming out with a perfect 3/16 gap front and back, and even the b-pillars are in the right spot.

Things would be going faster if lazy kitty would pick up a wrench.
YES YES YES, lookin good :cool:

[JimC]

Always feels good when the plaque goes back on...

[cgalpin]

Very nice! But you have to have more pictures than that!

[JimC]

This is backing up a bit, but I've got more pix indeed-

Here are a couple of the motor, trans and t-case all linked up following my pilot bushing debacle. Lots of bruises on the legs from supporting the trans and t-case and wrastlin' 'em into place.

There's a pic of the damned rear cage support that cannot be installed or removed with the tub in place. Later D-90 style supports just bolt up from behind the crossmember, but these "clip" over the top. Forgetting to install them now would lead to massive fits of swearing later on.

There's also another appearance by lazy cat, who won't so much as lift a paw to help.

Follow-up Post:

Incidentally, there's a pic there of a great tool I found - the "nutdrill." Its much easier and more controlled than the stupid hand-powered ones that have a tendency to jump as the mandrel breaks and have the potential to scratch your paint. This think sinks rivets easily and completely each time and is definitely the next best thing to a much more expensive pneumatic rivet gun. This was definitely 60 bucks well spent, and I obtained it with characteristic ease from McMaster-Carr.

[GaryBaxter]

Lots of parts back from the paint shop, and they really did a good job. I was pretty specific about not wanting the spot welds filled in or sanded, and they actually got it right. They also did a fabulous job of re-skinning my rear doors - I'm just overall quite pleased.Is the shop in the Boston area?

[cgalpin]

Lovely. Yeah Ron was just telling me about the 110 rear support difference. I could pull those easily on my D90.

Dmitry if you see this, you need those little spacers shown in the third picture. They prevent your rear cross member from being crushed when you bolt on your bumper. Judging from the marks on the rear cross member of your old frame you didn't have these. Sorry for the hijack Jim.

[JimC]

Is the shop in the Boston area?

No, its down in NY, Newburgh to be exact. Let me know if you need some parts taken down there.

[leastonce]

Jim - quick question ... how did you restore your plaque? It looks great!

[JimC]

The plaque was pretty easy, but it was a few steps. I bead blasted it, the powder-coater put a flat black on it. I sanded the black off the letters and then they did a gloss clear powder coat over the top. It should be pretty good for a long time now.

[evilfij]

The plaque was pretty easy, but it was a few steps. I bead blasted it, the powder-coater put a flat black on it. I sanded the black off the letters and then they did a gloss clear powder coat over the top. It should be pretty good for a long time now.

You are a sick man JimC.

[bjf]

Wow and I was impressed by just stripping it, painting it with krylon and sanding the letters down.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/barryrides/3648604819/sizes/l/in/set-72157613242026920/

[leastonce]

Both look great ... item 100 on my list of non urgent things to do!

[bjf]

I need that rivet tool

[pendy]

I wish you had not shown the rivet tool. I have never scratched paint. I have been aware of that tool Now that I have seen it. Surely I will scratch paint now. So I may as well buy the tool I guess.

Uuugh

Send me yours when you are done with it. I'll give it back when you need it. One less thing to travel with.

[130Tdi]

vent screens on a NAS 110. Going with vents and underdash a/c ?

[JimC]

Yep Doug, gonna go with the new dash and underdash AC. I'm not into the whole obsolete original AC thing. I was going to experiment with making it work, but in the end I just gave all my old AC stuff to Ron, who likes that sort of thing.

Also have a rear AC if you look closely at my most recent pic of the body. The enlarged window trim is the duct for the rear AC. Fortunately, it looks like only very minor trimming of the trim piece will be necessary to get the duct to fit with the cage.

And sorry Pendy, I can't send you my "nutdrill" - I don't have the hand strength that you do.

[JimC]

Slow progress. This weekend all I got done was installing the ECR LED's - its always nice to install parts that have been sitting in your stash for several years.

Fortunately, the NAS plinths do cover the holes left by the old trailer-style lights, but only just. I had to carefully place the first light on each side to ensure that the inside light would cover the big hole.

Not much explanation required for the pix, but the old hole is pointed out with the red arrow. Not that I'll be going back to trailer lights, but this mod is theoretically reversible.

One thing to note is that the roll cage support is in the way if you try to install the regular NAS-style lights with bulbs. The ECR LED's are flat on the back, so they don't "foul the cage" as they would say in brit mags.

[JimC]

Some more slow and minor progress last weekend.

The back seat is installed. There was some space remaining between the cross-piece on the frame and the part of the tub where the seats mount, so my wife made some ABS spacers in Solid Works and cut them out on a laser cutter. Not that there would be a problem with the galvanized steel against aluminum, but its also nice to have a plastic piece in there to separate the metal parts.

Eww, seats need a cleaning.

On the motor I've almost finished reassembling the parts I pulled off and sent to the powder coater. These were previously a gold color, but I had them re-done. Next mission is to swap out the valve covers and plenum so they aren't white.

And my assistant is always ready to use her rubber mallet to "fix the ro-ro." I'm going to have to go back and find all the bolts she's stuffed into holes, fix the scratches she's putting in the paint, and re-buy some of the parts she is carrying off and hiding - but I wouldn't miss those opportunities for anything at all.

[cgalpin]

Priceless!

Not the quality time with your kid, but the fact your wife made you spacers using Solid Works and a laser cutter!

[KKilo23]

Looking great!!

[130Tdi]

The picture of that little girl with a big rubber mallet next to the windsheild gives me apprehension. It may work with your daughter. Mine would have taken a swing...
Cabell's 3 yr old daughter calls rovers RoRo as well.

[discotdi]

I am pretty sure this has been covered before, but how did you get the LR limited ed. Badge looking so good? We have D110 LRNA/1 here at our dealership but the number badge is grey and faded. I would love to 'restore" it.

Thx

[mjekogian]

The plaque was pretty easy, but it was a few steps. I bead blasted it, the powder-coater put a flat black on it. I sanded the black off the letters and then they did a gloss clear powder coat over the top. It should be pretty good for a long time now.
yes and this is what he said.

[FlaD90]

JimC,

What changed your mind on the engine, I recall a wish list for a TDI, even a 2.8 TVG?
Just curius as to why the turn around, although the 4.6 looks very good & nicely done.

[KKilo23]

JimC,

What changed your mind on the engine, I recall a wish list for a TDI, even a 2.8 TVG?
Just curius as to why the turn around, although the 4.6 looks very good & nicely done.
See Post 102 http://d-90.com/forum/showpost.php?p=180189&postcount=102 :)

[JimC]

JimC,

What changed your mind on the engine, I recall a wish list for a TDI, even a 2.8 TVG?
Just curius as to why the turn around, although the 4.6 looks very good & nicely done.

German emissions laws. In about a year I'll be assigned in Germany, and they actually check the emissions compliance of the engine which is installed. Petrol engines with catalytic converters get a Green Sticker, which means you can drive anywhere. Diesel engines get a Green, Yellow, Red, or no sticker at all depending on their level of emissions compliance, and many cities restrict vehicles without green or yellow stickers. The 2.8 only qualifies for a Red Sticker, and I'd have to have the latest Puma diesel to get a green one. Moreover, the place where I'll be assigned is in a Green Sticker area, so if I ever want to drive to work I had to install either a gas engine or a Puma diesel.

Clear as mud?

[bjf]

I am pretty sure this has been covered before, but how did you get the LR limited ed. Badge looking so good? We have D110 LRNA/1 here at our dealership but the number badge is grey and faded. I would love to 'restore" it.

Thx

Drill the rivets out
Use a light sandpaper on the badge. Make sure you hit every area that is black
Use a prep clothe to clean
Spray with krylon semigloss black
Sand off raised area for a nice new looking badge

[JimC]

Drill the rivets out
Use a light sandpaper on the badge. Make sure you hit every area that is black
Use a prep clothe to clean
Spray with krylon semigloss black
Sand off raised area for a nice new looking badge


The only problem with that is that the aluminum remains unprotected and can start corroding again. I went with a clear powder coat to avoid that, but the method is pretty much the same.

[FlaD90]

The only problem with that is that the aluminum remains unprotected and can start corroding again. I went with a clear powder coat to avoid that, but the method is pretty much the same.
This is what I plan on doing, very good Jim.

[TDI Guy]

Looks great Jim.. you better stop over with that thing when you are done....

[discotdi]

Drill the rivets out
Use a light sandpaper on the badge. Make sure you hit every area that is black
Use a prep clothe to clean
Spray with krylon semigloss black
Sand off raised area for a nice new looking badge

Jim- you used this method but then used a clear coat protectant on the whole badge?

[JimC]

To be specific:
1) removed badge
2) bead-blasted
3) had it power-coated flat black
4) sanded down the face
5) had it powder-coated clear gloss all over.

I don't know what it cost, it was with a bunch of other parts. You could accomplish the same thing with spray paint, but as far as I'm concerned, anything worth doing is worth over-doing.

Follow-up Post:

Looks great Jim.. you better stop over with that thing when you are done....

You'd better stop off and see it before I leave the country again. I'm gonna finish putting the body together and then its going to Pendy for motor tuning, under-body neon, toyo proxes, etc.

[discotdi]

thanks Jim

[evilfij]

Did your 4.2 ECU and old valve covers and wires I sent you?

When do you need the sills by? How are you going to paint them?

[JimC]

Jill says a box showed up from you, so yes.

I need the sills by early December so they can go to the paint shop when I take the roof.

[evilfij]

Jill says a box showed up from you, so yes.

I need the sills by early December so they can go to the paint shop when I take the roof.

Ok, will see what I can do. I take it you don't need the little brackets or do you?

[JimC]

Actually I do need those brackets. The rusty bolts metastasized and spread to the surrounding metal.

[evilfij]

Hmmm, those I might not have. I think they are with the old t-pieces.

[JimC]

Worst case scenario I can just buy 'em - I'm sure they're not rare.

[evilfij]

Ok, let me go dig in the garage.

[JimC]

Lots of little jobs over the holiday weekend. This stuff takes up so much time.

I finally got the new felts put in the side windows. Just cleaning those things up makes such huge difference.

If you forget to remove your vent screens before galvanizing, you will spend several hours with the 5/64ths drill bit and the approximately 6400 holes in the mesh.

Continuing my trend for excessive refinishing, I disassembled the pedal boxes and send them out to be blasted and powder coated. The do look really spiffy now.

Reinstalling the c-pillar cage supports is pretty awful. I didn't take note of some of the holes that needed to be drilled into the rear part of the t-piece before I installed it, so I had to work the drill in at an angle. The support is a really tight fit in the space anyway.

Some of the other stuff bolts up really easily, got the front cage supports up off the floor and loosely attached - much easier to re-tap the holes that way. Also started putting all the various plumbing bits back on.

The rest of the truck goes to paint at the end of the week. I hope evilfij sends me the sill plates in time :)

[cgalpin]

Looking good Jim!

[evilfij]

They are sitting in a box. If I fail, I will buy you sliders as RN has mantec for $349. edit: do you really need working vents. I never use mine as I assume if i do they will leak sort of like the sunroof on the lwb that has not been used in 5 years.

[JimC]

They are sitting in a box. If I fail, I will buy you sliders as RN has mantec for $349. edit: do you really need working vents. I never use mine as I assume if i do they will leak sort of like the sunroof on the lwb that has not been used in 5 years.

Alright, that sounds like a good offer to me!

Of course I need vents. It would always bother me if I left the screens blocked. My vents on the 90 only leaked until I realized someone had cranked away on the vent levers, which left them bent and incapable of closing completely. As far as I'm concerned, they work fine.

[TDI Guy]

Jim, That would drive me nuts. I always remove the screens prior to galv. as well. YOu could always remove the screens and run without them. Series trucks do not have them. My IIa use to get so much air flow it was rediculous.

[JimC]

I actually started drilling because removing them seemed to be too much of a hassle, and a big mess. They're pretty much galvanized on now. I'm OK with the drilling, a wire brush cleans up the rough edges really well and the shape of the screen guides the drill bit, so the overall effect is very even and properly-spaced.

[airbornrover]

Im surprised you just didnt take a blowtorch and an air gun to the glavi'ed vents since zinc has a low melt point.

[JimC]

Im surprised you just didnt take a blowtorch and an air gun to the glavi'ed vents since zinc has a low melt point.

I did, but it set the paint on fire.

[woldd90]

Looks great.. Did you use ECR's stainless brake lines?

[JimC]

Yep - ECR stainless fuel and brake lines.

[woldd90]

Jim, when I get a NAS 110, I am going to send it to you to restore. Are you bringing the 90 to Germany too?

[JimC]

The 90 is going to stay in the states at an undisclosed location. I can't have you people trying to liberate it, and my wife would park it on my chest if I tried to sell it. I'm thinking it needs a color change to G4 orange and a return to soft-top configuration when we get back to the states on a permanent basis.

I've got my wife to agree-in-principle to the idea of a Rover project every 5 years. So as soon as the 110 is done, I'm going to start scheming for a 130 project for the 2015 restoration season! Of course if I'm assigned to Upper Asswipistan or the Kingdom of Shithed at the time, it might have to be delayed.

[KKilo23]

Looks great Jim!

[evilfij]

Sills went out yesterday.

Ron

[JimC]

You're a great American fij.

[crown14]

The SIII vents go in nicely with a few rivets once you gnaw the old ones out.

[JimC]

The SIII vents go in nicely with a few rivets once you gnaw the old ones out.

Gnawing was too messy and inconvenient. Plus this method is free, and I need the openings in the right spot for the Td5 dash anyway. Plus I'm half done and would hate to waste the effort!

[JimC]

This weekend's progress consisted of nothing more than extracting the truck from the garage and taking it to the body shop to have the rest of the paint done (and to have some idiosyncrasies fixed).

Getting the truck out was actually a huge hassle. The garage door on this dumb house I rent barely wouldn't allow fitment of the roof, so that was off-site. The doors and stuff were all packed in the back, and the exhaust, driveshafts, etc were all stashed under the truck.

Anyway, so the the truck finally emerges, we get it on the trailer, and drop it off just before the shop closed. If all goes well, I'll see the truck again in a couple weeks and start really putting the body together in earnest!

[JohnsD90]

im lookin forward to seein it

[EWR]

Nice work Jim! :cool:

[JimC]

Thanks a lot Carey - sure you don't want to come on down on the 19th and work on it a bit...?

:grin

[130Tdi]

mighty nice trailer...

[EWR]

Thanks a lot Carey - sure you don't want to come on down on the 19th and work on it a bit...?

:grin

Hhmmm.... the 19th like two Saturdays from now? :) ............. I'll get back to you. How many people will be trying not to chip the fresh paint on this day?

[JimC]

Ha ha, yeah, the Saturday before Christmas. There's only a couple that are definite-maybes, a couple more who just want to drop by.

Of course, Carey, I want you to feel free to drop by any time! :)

[EWR]

Jim, it would be worth the drive to actually watch you drill out those screen holes...... there's a name for that......aahh... OCD. :) Check your inbox.

[JimC]

Here are some pix from today's work party - thanks again to all those who came to help and its a bummer that the weather kept more from showing up. Oh well, no big deal, it just means I have brats left over!

Anyway, it took two tries to get the roof down well. Those new roof gaskets are a beast. Kudos to Josh for drilling out approximately 945 holes in my galvanized vent screens!

I'm actually really pleased with the combo of the blue-green tinted glass, the body color and the black accents. And the silver chequer plate is looking OK too. Its not my first choice, but its a good solution for dented fenders and kids that like to climb.

[KKilo23]

Here are some pix from today's work party - thanks again to all those who came to help and its a bummer that the weather kept more from showing up. Oh well, no big deal, it just means I have brats left over!

Anyway, it took two tries to get the roof down well. Those new roof gaskets are a beast. Kudos to Josh for drilling out approximately 945 holes in my galvanized vent screens!

I'm actually really pleased with the combo of the blue-green tinted glass, the body color and the black accents. And the silver chequer plate is looking OK too. Its not my first choice, but its a good solution for dented fenders and kids that like to climb.
Really coming along great! I can't wait to see it finished!

[EWR]

Looks great Jim, congrats on the progress!! :cool: Before you put your headliners in , make sure to test the rear windshield washer line...... :eek: , sucks to find out you have a leak too late....

[tommyd]

looks awesome Jim. wish I could've made it . . .

[evilfij]

4 hours of ron good time and you can drive iut.

Ron

[bjf]

Good luck with the cage. One of the most painful jobs was getting it on after I had it powder coated. I ended upi having more luck going front to back

[JimC]

Here are some updates. Its amazing how much work there is left to do even at this point. I can't mount my door strikers to the b-pillar because of some design difference, etc etc.

Some quick work keyed the new door locks to the 110's ignition key. I had to pull two wafers and grind down a couple more, but it worked really well.

Anyway, I became almost the happiest guy in the world when I discovered that the rear AC switch fits into the opening for the headlight adjuster switch in the 02+ dash fascia. Now I can extend the wires and control the rear ac from the front.

Panel alignment has been more or less very good. I took lots of measurements and was very careful while putting the tub, bulkhead, and t-pieces on, and it seems to have more or less paid off. I have one rear door that fits very poorly, but it was a re-skin job on a repaired, recycled galvanized door frame, so its not a complete surprise. I'll be in the market for some newer style rear doors in Germany.

There is still a ton of work left, but the body is mostly together. After the first of the year, I'll get the cage finished, the caulking squirted etc. Its nice to have the "V8" stickers back on though!

[cgalpin]

Well done! I bet your really happy with that color too. Looks beautiful.

[rover26c]

Almost complete.. Keep up the good work .

[TDI Guy]

Looks great Jim

[Jon_Winningham]

Very nice work Jim!!!!!!!!! :clap
Kind of makes me want to do another NAS restore...

[rijosho]

Jim,
How's it coming along this week?

Have you found out your deployment date yet? Let me know if you need me to come up and do that driver's side vent before you leave. :party

[JimC]

Ha ha, I'm out of town this week, and I ship out on the 15th or 16th. You're more than welcome to come drill if you want, and any one else is always welcome. I can't always guarantee brats though...

[JimC]

Lots more work done, but now its getting to be stuff that isn't so visible. The big deal is that the cage is on and lines up just fine.

I tried stretching the rubber cage foot gaskets (like on the NAS 90s where the front cage meets the fender) around the rear cage feet, but I didn't like the result at all. What I ended up doing was getting out some more of my trusty pond liner. I lined up the cage support until it was correct, then I sealed the hell out of it with 3M 4200 and basically glued on the rubber pond liner (I did make bolt holes before gluing it on). So the cage supports should be water tight before bolting on the cage. Then the cage itself just bolts right on top and everything should be (fingers crossed) OK. Plus the black backing helps disguise one damaged cage foot and keeps it from being so obvious.

[cgalpin]

Nice! Think you'll get this completed before you go Jim?

Completed as completed can get anyway - drivable, registerable etc.

[JimC]

Nice! Think you'll get this completed before you go Jim?

Completed as completed can get anyway - drivable, registerable etc.

Nope, I'm making arrangements to have a noted Rover Specialist spend a few months ministering to it.

[surf110]

Jim. Great idea on the pond liner. My cage lines up like s****t. Need to redo it. Did you set the cage in place first then tightened up the inner supports?

[cgalpin]

Nope, I'm making arrangements to have a noted Rover Specialist spend a few months ministering to it.
Ugh, sorry to hear that.

[JimC]

Jim. Great idea on the pond liner. My cage lines up like s****t. Need to redo it. Did you set the cage in place first then tightened up the inner supports?

I set the supports and aligned them so that the cage feet would sit on them properly, then bolted them in place. I have a couple feet that don't conform well to the shape of the tub, but its not too bad. At least all the major pieces bolt together on top. I did have to use a quick-clamp in a couple places to get holes to line up.

[bjf]

So when I did my cage I tried the 90 feet as well and hated the results. I didn't even like how they came out on the front. I removed them all and have not sealed the cage. I have a tube of 4200 but haven't tried it yet. I didn't repaint my truck so you can image where the feet were it looks like poop as the old white sealant remnants are there. The rubber feet would have covered it but since that wont work and I am not painting the truck I want to know more about this pond liner you did.

[woldd90]

Jim, where did you say you were storing the 90? :-)

[JimC]

So when I did my cage I tried the 90 feet as well and hated the results. I didn't even like how they came out on the front. I removed them all and have not sealed the cage. I have a tube of 4200 but haven't tried it yet. I didn't repaint my truck so you can image where the feet were it looks like poop as the old white sealant remnants are there. The rubber feet would have covered it but since that wont work and I am not painting the truck I want to know more about this pond liner you did.

I used the thicker pond liner, there are usually 2 thicknesses available. The thinner one is shinier and "blacker" and the thicker one is more "rubbery" looking. It slips easily between the cage and the body, so you can trace the outline quite easily. Cut it a bit oversize if you want, it will look good. I cut a couple of mine a bit over to cover some corrosion pinholes in the body.

Jim, where did you say you were storing the 90? :-)

At an undisclosed location!

[bjf]

Can you show me better pics of the all the feet to show me. Where did you get the liner?

[JimC]

Can you show me better pics of the all the feet to show me.

What else do you want to see exactly?

Where did you get the liner?

Lowe's!

[bjf]

I want to see it with the bolts through it. The whole foot at once. I guess I am confused as to what it covers if you cut it the same size as the foot.

[cgalpin]

At an undisclosed location!
Scott you are in luck! This narrows it down to two locations.

http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=undisclosed+location&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=39.507908,76.025391&ie=UTF8&hq=undisclosed&hnear=&z=4

LOL

[woldd90]

We need to rescue it until Jim comes home, as Rovers especially diesels don't like to sit around for years.

[bjf]

Jim

So why cover the feet if it is an exact fit?

[JimC]

It covers the hole in the body. The feet are definitely not exact fits to the tub (but they line up so that I can bolt it down). Even if the feet were a perfect fit, the metal on metal would never be a watertight seal. My idea was to ensure the hole was sealed (except for the bolt holes) and then use sealing washers for the bolts to prevent water going through there. I obviously want the best fit possible, but an exact fit isn't necessary.

[JimC]

Been doing lots of work, but not a lot that is exciting to see. Things like installing calipers, brake lines, tapping holes, etc don't make good porn.

I do though have a mostly installed new-style dash and a lot of rivets in the body.

Saturday the 16th is the last work day on the truck before I ship out. Anyone who wants to come by is welcome. If several people come, we can do food again. There should be lots of fun things to do now like bleed brakes and find un-tightened bolts/screws.

[bjf]

Looks good

[Gkase]

Jim...nice to see things done right...looks great...
say, you wouldn't happen to have any pix of the dash gauge pod area going together would you?
I'm not sure I got all the parts I needed from Safari Rover and the diagrams are no help...is there a panel
that finishes out the left side of the dash assembly like the grab handle finishes out the right side? do you need LHD heat controls or will the RHD work?
George

[surf110]

Jim. Looking good. Did you remember to put your VIN plate before the dash went in?

[JimC]

Jim. Looking good. Did you remember to put your VIN plate before the dash went in?

If you mean "remember to set it in place and not screw it down" then yes...

[JimC]

LR heavy duty floor mats how I love thee, let me count the ways.

Floors are in, and I got lucky and found a full set of these mats a while back. They are super heavy and cut down on noise a great deal.

I found a great stainless bolt at mcmaster for the floors which has a very wide flat head, perfect for not interfering with carpets or floor mats and having lots of surface for clamping. On each one I used a big washer and a rubber disc cut out of my favorite pond liners, so there is not stainless-aluminum contact.

And the Josh Memorial Vents are completely drilled out, the covers installed, and the last bit of cage bolted in place. Cleaning the galv out of the loops where the vent cover pins are was almost worse than drilling out the holes. In the end I had to get a chainsaw file and just work it until the pin fit. Sucko, but done.

[JimC]

say, you wouldn't happen to have any pix of the dash gauge pod area going together would you?
I'm not sure I got all the parts I needed from Safari Rover and the diagrams are no help...is there a panel
that finishes out the left side of the dash assembly like the grab handle finishes out the right side? do you need LHD heat controls or will the RHD work?
George

Here are a bunch of pix I took. There is a finisher for the left side of the dash, really just a cover for the heater controls. I haven't got all the pieces for mine assembled yet either. I think the mechanism is the same between RHD and LHD, I just don't know if the cables are the right lengths etc.

[rijosho]

Saturday the 16th is the last work day on the truck before I ship out. Anyone who wants to come by is welcome. If several people come, we can do food again. There should be lots of fun things to do now like bleed brakes and find un-tightened bolts/screws.


Anyone heading up there tomorrow? Those vents (and of course the rest) look great, Jim!

[bjf]

Love the rubber floor. I need the seatbox cover. Only part I haven't pulled the trigger on.

[surf110]

Jim. Where is the wiper motor and rod? Those are the first things that need to go in.

[airbornrover]

In some personal website or forum thread about doing a resto i remember someone wielding a drill bit to a flexible cable so that he could drill out those hinge holes for the vent covers. The cable was long enough so that he worked it from oneside to the other in one fell swoop so to speak.

[TDI Guy]

Jim.... I always drilled out those holes before paint. That will be a pain in the ass for sure. Yeah, where is your wiper setup? And yes, the LHD uses a longer heater adjustment cable. The truck looks great

[cgalpin]

Looking good Jim!

[JimC]

Jim. Where is the wiper motor and rod? Those are the first things that need to go in.

Wiper parts are MIA - a casualty of being in a hurry. I'll install them sometime in the future.

Anyway, I'm done for now. There will be no updates from me for a while. I dropped #145 off at a Well-Known Rover Specialist who will probably post something eventually on the progress. He'll get the thing running and sorted and I'll see the truck again in a year or so when I'm back from deployment.

The truck sits kinda high in the front. This was intentional to offset an ARB and winch.

Anyway, here's pix of getting her out of the shop and on to the trailer. I loaded her up and headed out. I parked in a nice dry parking lot only to find 6 inches of snow on my truck the next morning. By the time we got to the Well-Known Rover Specialist's place, it was a mess of snow and dirt. Oh well, it had to get dirty eventually, may as well be before its even running.

[cgalpin]

Even though you didn't get her finished I think it looks great and you did a remarkable job Jim. Hats off to you.

Given the weather and the final picture my guess is she's at ECR now. Am I right?

[bjf]

Looks good. Did you modify the orginal basket?

------ Follow up post added January 19th, 2010 01:14 PM ------

Any reason you won't say the shop name?

[JimC]

Even though you didn't get her finished I think it looks great and you did a remarkable job Jim. Hats off to you.

Given the weather and the final picture my guess is she's at ECR now. Am I right?

Thanks Charles. You're right, she's at Mike's in Maine.


Looks good. Did you modify the orginal basket?

Any reason you won't say the shop name?

The rack is the one That Shane Ballensky (Rover Hybrids) made for me a few years back. Its been on the 90, but moved it over.

I didn't mention the shop because I was just being coy. I was trying to avoid a ribbing about doing such a "great" restoration that I needed ECR to sort it out.

In all honesty, I had to leave some stuff un-done that was really embarrassing. It just sux to say stuff like "oh, I didn't get the transfer case linkage adjusted so it doesn't shift," "I didn't have a chance to bolt the panhard rod" and "these drive flange bolts are too long." Dumb stuff really.

[rover26c]

she's at ECR now. Am I right?

I believe you are Correct! :)

+2

------ Follow up post added January 19th, 2010 04:32 PM ------

Jim, how long was the drive from your place to ECR? By the way your D is looking good!

[cgalpin]

Thanks Charles. You're right, she's at Mike's in Maine.
Excellent! What do I win?

The rack is the one That Shane Ballensky (Rover Hybrids) made for me a few years back. Its been on the 90, but moved it over.
So no more RTT on the D90?

[ECR]

Excellent! What do I win?


Your choice.
I can send you some snow or some of the dirt we washed off Jim's truck.:):)

[bjf]

Awesome. Hope it makes it to the website for updates.

[rijosho]

Looks great, Jim...and good luck!


So I guess that's Carey's CJ-3B in the background of that last pic then. :clap

[cgalpin]

Your choice.
I can send you some snow or some of the dirt we washed off Jim's truck.:):)
Ooh, some genuine dirt sounds awfully tempting. How about a voucher to be shop sweeper for a day? That way I can get all the dirt I can stuff in my pockets :grin

[bjf]

Looks great, Jim...and good luck!


So I guess that's Carey's CJ-3B in the background of that last pic then. :clap

Damn Horsey, you got some eyes on you.

[EWR]

Looks great, Jim...and good luck!


So I guess that's Carey's CJ-3B in the background of that last pic then. :clap

Ah, no. My 3B is tucked away nicely at home. The Heep in question is a Rover eating TJ Wrangler.:eek:

That's a pretty good observation to see the Jeep in that pic. You guys are scary....

[specops1526]

That's a pretty good observation to see the Jeep in that pic. You guys are scary....

Someone has stalker eyes...scary indeed.

[cgalpin]

That's a pretty good observation to see the Jeep in that pic. You guys are scary....
I saw the Jeep - it's what made me question it was ECR!

[ECR]

I saw the Jeep - it's what made me question it was ECR!

Don't worry, the Jeep is out numbered about 50 to 1.:)
It belongs to one of the guys here, but it hasn't been on the road in years.:(

[crown14]

Cleaning the galv out of the loops where the vent cover pins are was almost worse than drilling out the holes.

I used a locally bought drill bit that could only be described as "long as hell".


Even though you didn't get her finished I think it looks great and you did a remarkable job Jim. Hats off to you.

Agreed!!

[JimC]

Jim, how long was the drive from your place to ECR? By the way your D is looking good!

Its about 6.5-7 hours from NY to Rockland. We've done the drive several times, its a really easy trip. Plus Maine has so much good stuff other than Rovers that we keep going back.

------ Follow up post added January 20th, 2010 03:51 PM ------

So no more RTT on the D90?

I moved the rack partly because its the only one I have that is RTT compatible. My plan is to reverse the rack when the tent is on it so that it opens over the back and then I'll just use a ground ladder.

The tent was on the 90 too long this year anyway, I never meant it to be a styling accessory, and I usually just have it on during the summer months. This year however, I needed the RTT's space in the garage for misc 110 parts.

The kids adore the RTT, so I definitely have to take it to Europe. I'm hoping sometime in 2011 or 2012 to go park somewhere along the Tour de France route, pop the tent, drink beer, hang out.

[bjf]

what type of rear ac do you have?

[JimC]

Its the Elite unit, which is the only one I know of. Unfortunately, its NLA.

[bjf]

pics? Is it like the one in the black 110 at ecr?

[JimC]

Mine's not installed, so no pix. Its the exact same unit as the one has in their pix.