anyone using Mobil1 15W50 ?

[artm]

I've got a few cases of this from my Series days and would like to use it in the D90 this Summer.

I usually run 10W30 but Castrol Syntec 15W40 has also been recommended.

Anybody using it???

[javelinadave]

That's all they use at Land Rover North Scottsdale! It should work fine thru the summer but I don't know if I personally would use it during your cold Boston winters....

[wicks]

I have recently been told that my new leaks came from running synthetic. Anyone with similar experience?

I am thinking of changing everything back to Dino oil.

[Doug]

One of the guys I've been talking to about my new 5.0 install says the Buick block was built for dino oil tolerances and never changed. That said, I'm probably going to start out with 20/50 Castrol in the tummy of the beast....

[kellymoe]

Aren't Land Rover supposed to leak? It is like having a constant oil change, out with the old and in with the new. It also coats your undercarriage with a fine coat of oil to prevent rust and when mixed with dirt and time it cakes on and holds everything together, thats why I never clean the engine or undercarriage. If I did the truck would most likely fall apart. I am sticking with synthetic. I can't imagine a Land Rover that doesn't leak. I had a 1988 4runner with 220k miles on it and only changed the oil and spark plugs and wires. Changed the brakes once and never changed the clutch. And it never leaked oil or left me stranded.
MAN!! talk about a boring car. Oh and I could also spend the money I saved on other things like climbing equipment, skis and kayaks. Now it all goes into the Land Rover. Who needs that stuff anyway? Well enough of my stream of consciousness rambling.

[artm]

Yea, I purchased my D90 last June. It had minor leaks and most likely used dino. When I switched to synthetic the leaks magnified.

Of course, the leaks can be cured by a full gasket job and that's the right way to go. For me, leaving the benefits of synthetic to cure leaks isn't the answer.

I've also been told of a synthetic that's good for leaks: Mobil Delvac 10W30/15W40. I will look into this further.

[sherpamike]

FWIW the independent rover shop that I entrust my rover to (Rover Club House) says that they never use synthetics in the engine because of leaks. Like Doug, they also run 20 w50.

[Eric_S]

FWIW 15/40 especially 20/50 seems a bit too thick. This is just my gut feeling.
I think Mobil Delvac also comes in 10/40 or it might be the Shell equivalent Shell Rotella (sp?).

[wicks]

What, you mean a synthetic engineered to produce the "anti-leak" buildup of rotten dinosaur guts?

How the hell did all that oil accumulate anyway? I remember studying it in school but that's all prolly a bunch of caca. I think humans must have come to Earth in a trillion-inch wheelbase Land Rover and it took a leak on this little dirtball.

[norros]

I just recently went down to an 'oil change shop' (I usually do it myself but...) and they didn't have any 10w-40 which I normally run down here in high temperature Florida... so the guy said that 20w-50 would be just fine. It's AMSOIL High Performance Synthetic 20w-50 to be exact... if that makes a difference.

Let me know what you guys think.

Thanks

Nicholas Orros

[RyanS]

I've been recently following a newsgroup on engine oils. There are several guys there who live for oils (go figure). Anyway, they generally back up what they say with oil analyses, cutting oil filters apart, etc. It seems that synthetic oils tend to harden the seals, and that's why you get more leaks. They generally recommend running a good dino oil unless you're looking to run extended drain intervals or need good low temp qualities. Based on what I've read there, I'm running Mobil Delvac 1300 in my 6.5 diesel (after previously running Amsoil synthetics).

[Doug]

Nicholas, The AMSOIL 20/50 synth in Florida sounds great! Don't change a thing. Isn't the first number the relative 'thickness' of the oil, and the second number it's 'viscosity'? It's the thickness our old Buick blocks need.

Wicks, LMAO! Only a few will groc.....

DW

[artm]

Originally posted by Ryan Sakurada
It seems that synthetic oils tend to harden the seals, and that's why you get more leaks.


So, wouldn't you rather fix your seals in order to use synthetic? Just the protection it affords in an overheated engine condition is enough for me.

Of course, there's always the startup benefit.

[Eric Siepmann]

I changed to synthectic when I bought my truck and haven't had any leaks whatsoever. I was told the rear main was leaking @ the time of purchase, but until two weeks ago, I hadn't had anytime to look at it. It turned out to be the oil pan and not the rear main. I run AMSOIL. If your looking for a good dino oil try PENTOSIN. Uber german oil at its finest.

As far as the seals, I wonder if some of those additives that soften seals are compatable with synthectic? Curious because I was told that once you go to synthectic you really shouldn't return to dino. Is this the case? Anybody have a reliable answer and a reason behind it? After looking at the Pentosin, their stuff seems just as nice as syn and if it will prevent future leaks why not?

[Craigd]

I have used Mobil 1 in every vehicle I have owned since 1992 and have never had an oil leak. For the record my 90 has 140,000 miles and I have used Mobile 1 since 57,000 miles and it is still dry. I think people get leaks and just assume it is the oil based on internet rumors.

[RyanS]

Well I should've known better than to throw out ( or forward) a blanket statement. My apologies. As with a lot of things, there are several factors that could cause a seal to leak: seal material compatibility, age, cleanliness, damage, wear, etc. So it's no wonder that people have differing experiences. But rubbers such as Buna-N, EPDM, Viton, etc have different compatibilities with certain chemicals. So I can see where some seals could be affected by the chemistry of the oils. Unfortunately (AFAIK), you can't choose your seal material unless you're willing to pay to have custom seals made. So probably the only way to know if you have a compatibility issue is to know what your seals are made of, and the additiives that are in your oil - probably too much of a hassle. Use what you like, and be happy.

I decided to go with a dino oil for several reasons: lower cost (I can get Delvac 1300 for around $6/gal at Walmart), I change my oil frequently due to soot and lots of stop/go driving, I live in a warm climate so I don't need low temp properties, and lastly, the high temp properties of Delvac 1300 are as good or better than Delvac 1 (Mobil's equivalent synthetic that is highly regarded by lots of people in the diesel world) which is important since I have a turbo. And if my seals stop leaking, all the better. :grin

[rover4x4]

I use the Mobil 1 syn. I dont think my leaks have gotten better or worse. I think it is a good product.

[Ramsay]

I switched over to Syntec 20w50 at my last oil change 2,500 miles ago. Syntec was recommended to me by West Coast British as a good oil for year round use in the San Francisco Bay Area where it is pretty mild. I honestly don't know much about oils but I can say that I have had no problems whatsoever in the last bit of time.

Andrew

[wicks]

Craig, that's an interesting stat. Maybe it is agressive greenlaning that gets the tbox leaking. Hmm.

I've used Mobil 1 since about 2 years ago, but the leak sprung about one year ago.

What about a stop-leak formula mixed in there????

[artm]

Stop-leak?! Come on now...just replace the seals. Even if you go custom surely the cost can't be unreasonable - where talking gaskets here.

I don't mind the leaks, except when I use the driveway!

[Mike Hippert]

I 've had good luck with stop leak in the power steering fluid. I have mobile one in my new T-case for over 6 months without any leaks. what about the Lucas oil treatment? I've heard allot of good things about it, I'm thinking of trying some in the trans.

[wicks]

And semi-synthetic might be a good compromise...

It's almost a grand to have the tbox pulled and all re-sealed. Unless I do it, which I don't want to. ;)

[evilfij]

just learn to top it up!

I am blessed with some very low oil leaking rovers. All on synthetic now except for the new LWB. I ran Rotella 5w 40 synthetic because it was cheap but I prefer the 0w 40 mobil one or 5w 40 penzoil--anything Merc Benz spec as the best. Full synthetic base stock and looking it and feeling it they are more slippery and clearer (if that really means anything!). I ran 15w 50 mobil one once and the engine seems to be slower to me but it was fine and caused no problems otherwise.

Ron

[scrover]

"anyone using Mobil1 15W50 ?"

I am, as of this afternoon. I did my oil lines also, if anyone's interested...

SC

[snuffer]

When I bought my D90 it was very clean underneath as far as oil leaks, never dropped oil in my garage. I switched to synthetic oils in diffs, t-case, trans, and engine and they all began to leak except the diffs.

The leaks were very minor, more like seeping but I have switched back to non-synthetic. I think if you change oils often there is not that much to to be gained with synthetic oils.

All of this is just opinion, no stats to prove my points.

[artm]

[i] I think if you change oils often there is not that much to to be gained with synthetic oils. [/B]


If it were only that simple. Yes, I always change my oils and often.

Again, the main benefits I seek from synthetic are better startups and protection from catastrophic failure - e.g. overheating, oil pressure loss.

You cannot match these from ANY non-sysnthetic blend.


BTW, I feel like the truck's slower since changing a few weks ago. Looks like I'll go back to 10W30.

[kellymoe]

In my experience the cars that get driven the most leak the most. I had a 1988 RR that sat up on blocks for a few years prior to my buying it. Changed the oil, hoses belts etc. and it never dropped a bit. My 1969 88" was the same, sat forever prior to my purchase and it never dripped an ounce. Now my 1994 Disco and the 130 act like real Land Rovers, especialy the Disco. I just keep an eye on the levels and keep them topped up. No big deal.

[snuffer]

Hey Art, never had a vehicle over heat or to loose oil pressure nor to have a catastrophic failure due to using natural lubricants.

How did those guys ever run 200 mph plus in a quarter mile before synthetics came along. Yes they changed out engines pretty often but they still do that with synthetics.

I think the synthetics are slicker than naturals but how slick do they need to be.

I will take my chances, although very small, and not have to live with the leaking gaskets and seals.

Oh, and if you can tell your truck is slower or faster with different oils you've been watching too many infomercials.

[Eric_S]

Art,

FWIW - Lappens was the only store in the area that I could find synthetic 5w/40 or 10w/40 (Castrol). The 40 weight gives you a little more high temp protection for the summer.

Eric

[Cyborg]

Has anyone tried running SYNTEC 5W-50 in there vehicle?? My vehicle spends a fair bit of time in the mountains during winter so I was thinking the 5W would be good for that and the 50 would be good for the few hot months we have here in OR.


What do you all think??

[thewap]

I ither run 10/40 Amsoil synthetic, or Castrol 10/40 syntec year round. The V8 I believe is designed to run with a slightly heavier weight oil. Personaly 5W would be too thin IMO.

[Roverowner]

From what I remember in engines class in college.....

Just doing the drain of the regular and switching to syn is not enough. Matter of fact, it is advised to do another oil change pretty quick after the first switch (1000 mi or so). the 'more/new leaks' comes from the syn doing its job. By changing out the seals, you get all of the grime out that was plugging one of the small holes (otherwise the syn will do it for you). I too had the same 'extra leaks' issue when I switch to syn on my Disco.....that was easily fixed with a 2.8L..... my $0.02

[trislerjw]

This is a really good thread, however, I still havent found a medium answer. It seems the group goes one way or the other. Winter is coming up so I want thicker right?(15w) and Thinner in the summer? (10w) I have 4.0 v8... And How about changing the seals (cost?) can I do that just following the manual? sorry for the newbism...
-J

[thewap]

The Rover V8 when older can be succeptible to failure from dino oil sludge, and running too heavy a weight oil such as 20W- whatever, I believe runs a higher risk. The V8 also sems sluggish on start up, and performance with higher weight oils, unlike the old series 4cyl which are robust and like to run on 20/50.
In a warm climate, a higher viscosity of 40 or 50 is probably better for the V8. In the winter a lower viscosity is adequate.

As an all arounder without going bonkers on the oil subject, I personaly resorted to 10/40 which I believe is a good compromise/performance oil weight for the V8. More importantly is regular oil/filter changes, in my case every 3K miles
at most, with 74K miles on my engine. Dino vs Synthetic , is again a personal choice. I tend to believe that a switch to
synthetic on an older engine, will cause problems such as leaks, and sludge displacement (wall accumulated), which could cause oil port blockage. (which makes me think is it better to flush an old engine first, before switching to synthetic?)

I have run synthetic for the last 50K miles. No leaks.

[robisonservice]

We use Mobil 1 5-40 Truck/SUV in most older V8 Rovers. If the engine has sludge buildup we use Mobil 1 0-40. There is no need or benefit to a 15-50 oil in a Land Rover motor. Fuel economy will suffer a bit, and it may actually leak more, because the peak pressure will be higher.

There is no need for a winter/summer change of viscosity. Oils like the 5-40 and 0-40 are rated for year round use, being tested in Alaska and Death Valley under mor eextreme conditions than most Rovers see.

There is no question that the slipperier synthetic oil will leak a bit more, but its many benefits offset that issue.

[Cyborg]

I found this site which appears to have good info. Check it out and see what you think.

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#The%203000%20Mile%20Myth

[evilfij]

0w 40

[artm]

We use Mobil 1 5-40 Truck/SUV in most older V8 Rovers...

John,

Are you also recommending this for the 300 Tdi?

[robisonservice]

John,

Are you also recommending this for the 300 Tdi?
With respect to my earlier comments about Mobil 1 15-50 . . .

I don't think 1550 is a bad oil for a Rover V8, but I think 040 or 540 SUV is better. Those are newer products and they are not the same as 1550.

In recent years our recommendations have evolved in the face of improved products and greater knowledge.

That said, I do not have a recommendation for a 300TDI because we don't have enough of them in the USA fo rme to learn what works. I have a 2.5 diesel in my own D90, and I use 540 Mobil 1 diesel in it.

[BarryO]

Has anyone tried running SYNTEC 5W-50 in there vehicle?? I used to. I switched to Mobil 1 based on recommendation from Mr. Robison and others.

In any case, I've used synthetic in both '97 LR's since new. No oil leaks currently (although they both leak some steering fluid that I haven't gotten around to fixing).

The Disco my wife uses had a main seal replaced once, but hey, it does have ~230K miles on it. ;)