97 SW getting a few upgrades

[crown14]

I was typing descriptions, lost em when I clicked the wrong button. :angry
Now hope the pics tell the tale.

It all started as a complete and totally original truck (out of NY) - not mine BTW, belongs to a friend of a friend.

a few hours later (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_5840.jpg)

corrosion on rear body (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6057.jpg) and in rear door handle pocket

faded rear lamps and peek at rear crossmember (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6213.jpg)

noisy front hinge (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_5841.jpg)

rusty battery box (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7148.jpg) and beginnings of an ugly bulkhead (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6213.jpg)

road salt, ugh (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6057.jpg) and more of what it does (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6055.jpg)


Since it is going to live at a beach house here in NC, the idea is to take care of any and all existing corrosion, then rust proof everything possible.

Follow-up Post:

Got another frame (to galv.) and bonnet (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_5703.jpg) from Dale Knepp (original had an interesting dent)

Most of the larger items to be dipped went to a local guy to be sandblasted, the smaller stuff stayed.
Turns out, with enough drain cleaner, some water, a strap on heating element, and a 55gal drum you can take the paint off damn near anything (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6574.jpg). However be careful (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6491.jpg) not to use too much (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6492.jpg) drain cleaner at once.

Turns out the original frame was not so bad after all, so a couple other guys threw in some of their stuff and I loaded it all in a 24ft rental truck and took it to be galvanized. Two frames (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7058.jpg), two bins worth of smaller parts (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7063.jpg), enough door frames for two trucks, both bonnet frames, a stack of tub supports, etc (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_5703.jpg). According to them it was 1350lbs and it cost about $375. (more detailed pics in my photobucket (http://s424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/?start=all))

Follow-up Post:

now the fun part, I won't be too descriptive (this way you can have more fun looking at the pics)

new tires (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_5698.jpg) (285/75-16 SSR, measure out to 33.9)

Equipe suspension kit (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6494.jpg) (the springs were the wrong color so they are out getting repowdercoated)

replacement body and mechanical parts had to get their own shelf (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7040.jpg) ... the SS oil lines are there somewhere

GBR goodies, equipe skid plates, sliders (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7041.jpg), etc

don't let your wife fill your bonus room (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7042.jpg) with junk (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7044.jpg), use it for D90 parts (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7043.jpg)

recent arrivals are the new wheels (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7197.jpg)

and the new seats (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7202.jpg)

initially I got a Mud UK stainless bolt kit, then another little kit (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7200.jpg), but that wasnt nearly covering everything- luckily the Fastenal is only a couple minutes away so I could stock up (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7203.jpg)

even got some nice hand polished SS lug nuts (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7198.jpg)

ok I am off to do some more work

[TDI Guy]

Nice..

[budz]

Very nice....

[evilfij]

Very, very nice ....

[FlaD90]

Great work so far, I can truly appreciate someone trying to preserve these great trucks. This is my goal on my D90 someday, for now just doing one section at a time. Keep the progress pictures coming.

[rover4x4]

Looks good. When do you think you will have it done?

[crown14]

Looks good. When do you think you will have it done?Tough to say, hopefully sometime this summer.

Follow-up Post:

Almost forgot, got the new alloy front door hinges in from AB yesterday, and the new transmission cooler lines from RDS. Also successfully test mounted the bulkhead onto the frame. Might start stripping the tub down today (removing the adhesive residue from the inside and the weak attempt at undercoating from the underside) and I need to paint the engine block.

[Buyrovers]

Tough to say, hopefully sometime this summer.

Follow-up Post:

Almost forgot, got the new alloy front door hinges in from AB yesterday, and the new transmission cooler lines from RDS. Also successfully test mounted the bulkhead onto the frame. Might start stripping the tub down today (removing the adhesive residue from the inside and the weak attempt at undercoating from the underside) and I need to paint the engine block.

Yeah, you have a lot to do so get to work!

Oh yea, and great job so far...

C-

[crown14]

You guys didnt even tell me my pic links were all messed up back there... LOL
Anyhow, looks like it is too late to edit now, so just find the photobucket link and you can see all kinds of pics there.

Today it is almost 100 degrees outside and sunny so I am stripping the original undercoating off the bottom of the tub (already did the seat box).

[crown14]

Test fit of the bulkhead (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7204.jpg) (lined right up!) onto the frame.



To strip the original undercoating from one of these trucks seems really easy. Of course it helps to have the parts you wanna strip removed and inverted, but you get the idea. First spray liberally with Gunk Gel engine degreaser on a sunny day and let it soak. The gel type degreaser is best because it will not evaporate, it sits there and breaks down whatever you spray it on wether its grease or undercoating. It does not hurt the seam sealer though, which is good. Then attack the heavier areas with a scraper or putty knife (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7205.jpg) but dont work too hard, just remove the bulky stuff (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7206.jpg?t=1244056169). Next, rinse with the garden hose to knock the remaining chunks down then hook up the pressure washer and blast off the residue. If you powerwash the heavier stuff it will end up spraying all over you and everythign else and half dissolved rubber is not a fun mess to deal with. I also used a similar process to get the carpet tape adhesive residue off of the interior of the tub.

The end result is quite impressive inside (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7212.jpg) and out (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7211.jpg?t=1244056755) and after a quick wipe down with some mineral spirits or acetone the tub will be ready to go to the body shop. There are little spots of corrosion here and there that are gonna get sanded and primed in addition to the little bit of work to be done on the body sides which will be painted the new color. Then the tub goes to get rhinolining sprayed inside and underneath.

To be honest I have not decided yet to reinstall the galv parts onto the tub yet or wait. I am thinking it might be best to wait till after paint...

[dave_lucas]

I am thinking it might be best to wait till after paint...

That sounds like the best option to me.

[evilfij]

Here is a picture of my monitor.

[TDI Guy]

Here is a picture of my monitor.


:eek: LOL.. So bad

[crown14]

That sounds like the best option to me.Yeah the more I look at the bare tub it surprises me to see so many spots of bare aluminum. I think its best these get primed and painted.

[crown14]

just about finished up the front axle today, also degreased and painted the engine shortblock...


might have some pics if RON promises not to jizz in his pants?

[evilfij]

It was not in my pants, it was on the monitor. ;)

[crown14]

LOL

front axle pic (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7221.jpg)


engine peek (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7222.jpg)

[crown14]

got the rear axle mostly buttoned up today (will install the rear diff and axles later)

Going to pick up the batch of parts from the plating company tomorrow, got a "few" things done in yellow cadmium...

[evilfij]

Tell us how to use drain cleaner to strip paint and rust please. I need a visit from the township.

[crown14]

It is difficult to explain, not that it is complicated, more like too simple sounding to seem believable.

Here is what we did

-Bought a 55gal barrel with lid from a guy on Craigslist. It was clean and only cost me $15.
-Bought a strap type heating element online to fit the drum (I will have to search for the link)
-Put some water in the drum (I found about 15 gal works well) and turn on the heater, let it get good and warm
-Put about 8lbs of pure lye drain cleaner in the water slowly, while stirring so the crystals dissove
-Hook your parts onto metal coat hangers like from the drycleaners and submerge them in the solution
-Set the lid on top (not so it seals) and leave it be! Checking it every couple hours will lose a lot of heat so leave it for 12-24 hours then take a look
- When you remove parts, even if they dont look stripped take them out and pressure wash them. That will tell you how well things are working. I took a pallet and leaned it against the garbage can, then stuck a bunch of nails in it and hung the parts there to powerwash them. Then I would take and hang them up to air-dry and inspect. Stripped parts went in a large bin with a lid so they wouldnt get wet and rust. Parts with some paint left on them would either get sanded with 80 grit, wire brushed, or back in the tank again for another soak.

All of the above was hard learned and didnt really jive with what I had heard about this technique in the beginning. More pointers:

- The average part took me 24hrs in the tank to strip. Stubborn parts 48hrs. To turn powdercoated or super stubborn parts into stubborn parts scuff with 36 grit sandpaper and try some Bix Tuff Job stripper (from home depot) first. Even then, some parts would just NOT strip for me unless I hit them with aircraft stripper.
- Do this outside. I erected an easy-up canopy to keep rain from getting onto things, also it became a convenient place to hang cleaned parts for air drying after they were stripped.
- Remember the 55gal drum acts as a heat sink, so crank the heater up and leave it on. It probably wont get as hot as you think.
- Every day expect to have to add another pound of lye to keep the solution working. I would usually wait two days and add two pounds.
- Buy several pairs of good fitting PVC coated elbow length gloves and get used to putting them on every time you touch a part that has been in the tank. Also get used to the random chemical burn on the forearm. Should you get some of the solution on you, use citrus based hand cleaner first the acid will help to neutralize it. Also note how clean it gets your hands!
- DONT BREATHE when you first remove the lid from the barrel. Breathing near this stuff will not kill you but a good lungful will have you coughing up mucus for hours and enough will probably put you in respiratory distress. I would pull the lid and step back for a few minutes to let the fumes clear before pulling the batch out.
- STEEL ONLY (no aluminum, be careful with brass)
- Yes, your neighbors will probably wonder why you are cooking so much meth outside and why you are pressure washing that same pallet in the driveway every single day, but to me this is easier than sandblasting.

It is slow going.... stripping all these parts (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_6574.jpg?t=1244670858) took me a little over a month. Yes the heater was on constantly for a month at least. It took approximately $350 worth of drain cleaner, but I was buying it by the half pound instead of buying pure Lye in bulk like I should have. When you are done, disposal is easy. I threw some random wheel in the tank and let it sit, two weeks later when I pulled it out I could tell the solution was pretty neutral, so I dumped it in the yard and rinsed the barrel out. The crazy part is that all the paint that seems to come off in the barrel, completely dissolves into the solution. Once you dump it out the bottom of the barrel is clean.

Follow-up Post:

OH almost forgot.... LOOK (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7270.jpg)

[crown14]

apparantly ECR is having a hard time coming up with their stainless brake and fuel line kits for us

[evilfij]

You can buy the brake lines directly from classic tube.

[crown14]

The SS fuel lines are what I am concerned with.

[evilfij]

Humm.

Let me know if you figure that one out. I think they are ECR only. JimC made his own with swaglock [sic?].

[ECR]

apparantly ECR is having a hard time coming up with their stainless brake and fuel line kits for us


???
We are??

Sometimes they get sold out fast, but I always re-order 10 or 15 sets.

Are you on the list for the next order?

[crown14]

As far as I know, what I was told was we were due to get our stuff shipped mid June. When the "project manager" called to check on the status last week the lady told him you guys were no longer making some of the kits for certain vehicles. Which was more or less what I was told when I called up to order some oil cooler lines for this same build, now that I think about it.

Maybe I should talk to you direct?

[ECR]

As far as I know, what I was told was we were due to get our stuff shipped mid June. When the "project manager" called to check on the status last week the lady told him you guys were no longer making some of the kits for certain vehicles. Which was more or less what I was told when I called up to order some oil cooler lines for this same build, now that I think about it.

Maybe I should talk to you direct?

None of that is correct.
We had a batch of fuel lines that came through with rubber flex lines on them, and those had to go back to get the proper stainless steel flex pipes installed, so that caused a delay.
No NAS 90 or 110 stainless products have been dropped.
We don't make RHD or Euro stuff, but we never have.

Oil cooler lines I make myself and I do them in my free time, and I wait until we have a fairly big order list then I tuck in and build them all as it is faster that way.

Mail order is not the priority here, especially with our Spring rush to get trucks out to customers, but nothing has been dropped.

email me with what you need.

Mike, ECR

Follow-up Post:

I spoke with Holly about this just now and I have no idea how you got what you are saying from what she told the caller.
She told them that the fuel lines are out of stock and we don't have a good eta (as we didn't at the time, but as of last night I now know they will ship to us today).

Holly also told the caller that we are not making any oil line sets right now as we have 2 trucks that have to get done for the July 4th weekend and it is all hands on deck to make that happen, and no time for oil cooler lines until after those trucks are done.
That means there is a delay, sorry about that but in shop customers come first, but that doesn't mean we do not make the product anymore.

Holly and I are on the same page here. She has a list of lines for me to make and I'll do them all son (likely this weekend if it keeps fricking raining up here) and 90 fuel lines should be here Friday or Monday. Brake lines are in stock.

Hope that helps.

[crown14]

excellent- thanks

[crown14]

started picking up parts from the paint/body shop last week

painted tub (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7513.jpg)
other parts 1 (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7515.jpg)
other parts 2 (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7514.jpg)
seatbox, floors (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7522.jpg)
bulkhead 1 (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7526.jpg)
bulkhead 2
(http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7553.jpg)


also FINALLY got around to the powdercoating stage, engine is coming along nicely now just need to finish up the upper plenum (pics didn't turn out so great, might be time for a better camera)

engine 1 (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7598.jpg)
engine 2 (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7604.jpg)


still have a few more parts to go to the powdercoat shop, and I should be heading out to the paint shop again today, so making good progress I think



ALMOST FORGOT: got the suspension (http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/1997%20Defender%2090/100_7428.jpg) on a couple weeks back :)

[JimC]

What color is that, I'm having trouble figuring it out. It almost looks like sand glow, but in some photos I think its lighter. No matter what, this project is awesome.

[crown14]

It is Shetland Beige

[TDI Guy]

Nice Work

[crown14]

thanks for the compliments guys

[Fivespddisco]

OMG
Joel That is NICE !

[bjf]

Quick question. Why didn't you paint the entire bulkhead? It looks great but since it is galvanized anyway, I would think the masking to paint just the outside would be more work than spraying the whole thing.

[evilfij]

Quick question. Why didn't you paint the entire bulkhead? It looks great but since it is galvanized anyway, I would think the masking to paint just the outside would be more work than spraying the whole thing.

Less paint to flake off. :)

[130Tdi]

Quick question. Why didn't you paint the entire bulkhead? It looks great but since it is galvanized anyway, I would think the masking to paint just the outside would be more work than spraying the whole thing.
You have to sand the galv coating way down to get paint to stick- if you don't the paint tends to flake off like Ron alludes.

[crown14]

OMG
Joel That is NICE !
:cool:

Follow-up Post:

You have to sand the galv coating way down to get paint to stick- if you don't the paint tends to flake off like Ron alludes.My paint guy found an acid etch primer that will stick to galvy, I am very impressed with no chips so far but tomorrow a bunch of stuff is heading to Line-X so we will see how it does.

[evilfij]

"My paint guy found an acid etch primer that will stick to galvy."

I got $50 saying it will flake within 5 years.

[bjf]

ASK ECR

I thought they painted galv parts too

[JSBriggs]

Since you are going with the gold and black theme on the engine, here is a idea for the fan.

-Jeff

[JimC]

My sand blaster blasts huge pieces of bridges and other marine-environment parts, and what they do is blast, galv, re-blast, paint with zinc-rich epoxy primer, then top coat for final finish. That is supposedly a particular spec of finish for these kinds of parts.

[evilfij]

ASK ECR

I thought they painted galv parts too

I don't think so, but Mike can chime in. I know they do the zinc rich primer deal, but I have not seen them paint galvy other than the frames (which if you look at the posts of the blueboy 109 with a V8 shows some peeling on the underside).

[cgalpin]

what they do is blast, galv, re-blast, paint with zinc-rich epoxy primer, then top coat for final finish.
I can believe this. If you have ever seen or felt freshly sand blasted metal it's the ultimate surface for paint to stick to.

[FlaD90]

What kinda of Zinc-rich epoxy primer is used?

[crown14]

"My paint guy found an acid etch primer that will stick to galvy."

I got $50 saying it will flake within 5 years.it wont rust though if it does flake

[evilfij]

it wont rust though if it does flake

Very true. Paint peeling off galvy is purely a cosmetic issue.

[crown14]

I picked up roll bar/cage parts from sandblasting yesterday, heading to powdercoat at the moment.

[woldd90]

Post a few more pics...

[crown14]

ok then

Follow-up Post:

Since you are going with the gold and black theme on the engine, here is a idea for the fan.

-JeffThere has never been, and never will be, any gold paint on this engine (or anywhere on the truck for that matter). The gold colored parts have been sandblasted and plated in yellow cadmium which is more corrosion resistant than yellow zinc or plain zinc.

[woldd90]

Looks Great! What does the final bill look like? A ball park would be helpful. If I do not sell my SW, this is what I want to do to it but in Zambezi Silver or Bonatti Grey.

[crown14]

The bill? You mean total? I don't really know, but I can say I have about 400 hours in it so far.

[cgalpin]

Wow, that looks awesome.

So just to be clear, did you buy it, or are you doing all of this for a friend of a friend still? I'd love to know what it cost in both labor hours and materials/parts/painting etc. too!

[crown14]

It belongs to a friend of a friend. As far as what its cost, well, I don't even know. I'll wait till it is done before I ask. I am trying to get it done by MAR.

[marcingham]

you don't want to know

[GYM]

What make of headers are those?
Do you anticipate any fitment issues come time to install the steering column?

[Grover]

...looks like a painted/ceramic coated stock cast exhaust manifold to me...
Great work on the re-build!

Cheers...

[GYM]

...looks like a painted/ceramic coated stock cast exhaust manifold to me...
Even in the pic with the red blanket covering the motor?
The stock exhaust manifolds don't look like that on my '97 Defenders...

[marcingham]

Hi Garth,
It is a ceramic coated stock manifold.

[TDI Guy]

Nice.........

[crown14]

Got the modified Equipe gas tank skid (helps to have buddies who are machinists) mounted today along with the stock rear bumper. Also started getting the first parts back from powdercoating today, stuff looks pretty good.

[rover4x4]

The bill? You mean total? I don't really know, but I can say I have about 400 hours in it so far.


I guess you are billing a little more than minimum wage?


Really enjoying see this truck come together, I hope to see it at Uwharrie or the MAR.

[crown14]

ok making progress now

[crown14]

Btw shiny area inside the top is dynamat

quick update here, working on headliner Now, next should be roll bar

more pics soon

[JimC]

I love how its aired-down so you can get it through the garage door. I think I'm gonna end up doing that...

[crown14]

that was just for clearance when installing the roof but I am a little afraid to air it up now!

[Grover]

ok making progress nowLook great!!!

Why didn't you paint the engine side of the bulkhead?

Cheers...

[marcingham]

Grover,
Didn't paint the engine side of the bulkhead for a few reasons:

1) show off the beautiful galvy
2) easier to paint in the future if you want to change colors
3) if the paint winds up not sticking to the galvy (in spite of all the efforts made to get a good bind), it won't be too terribly difficult to strip

[crown14]

Grover,
Didn't paint the engine side of the bulkhead for a few reasons:

1) show off the beautiful galvy
2) easier to paint in the future if you want to change colors
3) if the paint winds up not sticking to the galvy (in spite of all the efforts made to get a good bind), it won't be too terribly difficult to stripI dont know about #2 and #3 is the excuse, but #1 is the real reason.

[crown14]

color changing interior to black

wow that pic makes the linex look faded, but its just super dusty at the moment. I think the interior cage/roll bar looks much better in black.

[bjf]

Did you buy new interior bits in black or paint them?

[crown14]

Did it myself using SEM Color Coat. It turned out really really nice too I think.
http://semproducts.com/Catalog.asp?cat=36

[bjf]

Looks good. can't wait to see it together

[TDI Guy]

I used the SEM stuff to recolor my interior stuff Gray... It came out great as well. The stuff dries instantly too.

Truck looks great by the way.

[bjf]

Does it chip?

[dave_lucas]

If you clean it and perp it properly it will not chip but if you scratch it the old color will show.

[crown14]

If you clean it and perp it properly it will not chip but if you scratch it the old color will show.I used the plastic prep spray first, that softens the plastic. Then the sand free spray. You spray a light coat of the black while the sand free is still wet, and as it flashes it draws the black into the softened plastic, I scratched the side window interior panels a couple small spots while installing them and the roll bar hoop (what a pain in the ass by the way :angry) and no gray showing through. ALthough I did do about 3 light coats on each part and then one medium coat to top it off. It is really amazing, I also used it on the gray panel in the middle of the dash black and with that done and the added Iron Goat console in the dash it looks so much better than a standard D90 dash.

[KKilo23]

Amazing build.

[GYM]

The headliner pieces look great. Are they the originals?

[crown14]

Amazing build.Thanks, keep checking, a lot more progress to come in the next few days and I will try to keep the thread updates coming.

Follow-up Post:

The headliner pieces look great. Are they the originals?Yes, but they have been recovered in a regular headliner material instead of the thin foam backed vinyl they used factory. I had some marine foam backed vinyl that I was trying to use, but the marine grade stuff was too thick for the compound curves in the alpine window area.

[Wolf Fabrication]

Wow, nice build. I can't wait to build the rack for it!

[crown14]

quick update

front doors back from body/paint, hung and (mostly) assembled

interesting process for sure

got one of the wings on too, bonnet hinges are at powdercoat waiting for pickup...

Follow-up Post:

not quite sure if the new condenser fan is gonna fit well behind the grille ...

[rover4x4]

I know the customer is always right and I know the work is right; that is the shittiest color that could ever be put on a Rover.

[Buyrovers]

I know the customer is always right and I know the work is right; that is the shittiest color that could ever be put on a Rover.
I think you may change your mind when you see it complete...

[JimC]

I know the customer is always right and I know the work is right; that is the shittiest color that could ever be put on a Rover.

As I recall, you don't like Beach Runners either, so your taste is already in question.

[Wolf Fabrication]

Are you putting an external cage on it?

[marcingham]

Hi Jonathan,
We are putting the NAS exterior/interior back on it. Fresh (all black) powdercoating, otherwise stock roll cage.

[Wolf Fabrication]

Whew! I love the color by the way. It's not the usual "crayola" LR color you see in the US. It makes it unique as well.

[marcingham]

It is an actual LR color. Forget the name/code (I can get it if anyone really cares). It is what my buddy wanted. I kind of like it.

[crown14]

Shetland Beige

correct LR color from 83 or 84 if I remember correctly

[woldd90]

Any pics of it completed?

[130Tdi]

I know the customer is always right and I know the work is right; that is the shittiest color that could ever be put on a Rover.
I couldn't disagree more

[JohnsD90]

is that bedliner? (sorry if someone asked already i tried to look through)

[WhiteD90]

I couldn't disagree more

X2 on the very first statement and the very last opinion...

[marcingham]

John,
The interior of the tub, seatbox, floorboards, tunnelcover and interior footwell section of the bulkhead are coated in Line-x. The exterior/underside of the tub (but not the inside of the body skins) is also coated in Line-x (with minimal texture, which I thought would help keep mud from sticking).

[woldd90]

Still waiting on some pics...

[jaygoss]

John,
The interior of the tub, seatbox, floorboards, tunnelcover and interior footwell section of the bulkhead are coated in Line-x. The exterior/underside of the tub (but not the inside of the body skins) is also coated in Line-x (with minimal texture, which I thought would help keep mud from sticking).Great job on this- I'm getting inspired. Thinking about linex-ing the interior of mine this winter. Was wondering- for a painted D90 do you have to strip body parts down to bare aluminum prior to line-x application- or do they spray it directly over painted parts? Thanks for the great pics...& +1 for liking the color choice.

[marcingham]

Jay: as long as your paint is sticking, do not strip it. I was told Line-x will stick to aluminum, but not as well as it will stick to factory paint.

[RiftRover]

Where are the finished photos of this rig? We've been waiting a long time.... :)

[crown14]

Patience boys, hurt my back and the doc put me on the disabled list. Things should be getting back to normal real soon though.

I am hoping to paint the door cards tomorrow though, Ill get pics :D

Follow-up Post:

Jay: as long as your paint is sticking, do not strip it. I was told Line-x will stick to aluminum, but not as well as it will stick to factory paint.I believe the official word from Line-X corporate home office was that single stage paint needs to be cured at least 60 days but base/clears could be done almost immediately. For bare metal (including galvy) the procedure is to prime with a special etching primer before line-x is sprayed.

[crown14]

OK got the rear door somewhat assembled, need to do install the tire swing before the color changed trim parts go on. Two months later, finally got the RH wing on, now to work on the extra bits (ECM mount, charcoal can/steering res mount, etc) and then I can start messing with the cage. That part should be interesting, as I am planning on hiding the wires for the lights inside the tube itself.

Follow-up Post:

I need to get the glass in the rear door and get my tint guy out here this week...

[JimC]

Looks really great. I was thinking that I might have to get different side marker lights - but those look good.

I see you also have the Craftsman rolly-stool that likes to dump you on your ass and roll off down the driveway and into the street.

[crown14]

Hey I have masted the rolly stool! I spend so much time on it working on stuff like this that I have to keep using a bottle jack to straighten it back out. It is not designed very well for sure, but in the past couple years the bolts finally quit coming loose (when does that ever happen?) and overall its been a pretty good little stool. I vaguely remember one new years where we all took a turn on it getting pulled up and down the street behind a 49cc pocket bike...

[130Tdi]

Looks really great. I was thinking that I might have to get different side marker lights - but those look good.

I see you also have the Craftsman rolly-stool that likes to dump you on your ass and roll off down the driveway and into the street.
Jim- the bolt for the lower hing on that Mantec spare carrier has to be installed upside down to clear the NAS bumper, but you probably already figgured that out.

[michaels]

i'm really diggin' that color, especially with the white rooftop. keeping this one for personal use, or are there plans to sell it as soon as it is done?

[JimC]

Jim- the bolt for the lower hing on that Mantec spare carrier has to be installed upside down to clear the NAS bumper, but you probably already figgured that out.

Yeah, I immediately found that I couldn't use the supplied nut-plate since the new crossmember has a big fat weld that interferes. And I haven't been able to get my step bumper installed since the new frame rails are 1/4 in closer together than the originals. Still more work to do before I can stick that bumper on...

[SafariResto]

Joel, we discovered that the inner fenders required less cutting if the forward upper perches were re-drilled and the towers rotated ~45-degrees so that the piggyback reservoirs were parallel with the frame rail.

[crown14]

Joel, we discovered that the inner fenders required less cutting if the forward upper perches were re-drilled and the towers rotated ~45-degrees so that the piggyback reservoirs were parallel with the frame rail.The thought crossed my mind, but with the amount of engineering Equipe puts into their products, I have to believe there is a reason for the way they are built. Plus, mounting the $650ea shocks in a non standard orientation just did not sit right with me. In the end it was a royal bitch to trim the first one, but once I had it I just made a cardboard template and cut the other one out. In hindsight the absolute A number one way to do it all would have been to trim the inner wings prior to the trip to the galvanizers, so they could be blasted and re-dipped- then once everything was installed pull the towers and have the silver paint stripped off and then powdercoat. I powdercoated before installing the wings and ended up with a couple light scratches even after wrapping them in a masking tape cocoon.

Also unless my memory fails me, and it might be, there is no easy way to rotate and re-drill the towers I have here- due to the fact that the retainer studs would end up under the tube? I'll take a look later.



Steven do you think I should loosen the main bulkhead bolts, bolt down the wings where I want them, then retighten the bulkhead before finalizing the door adjustments?

[SafariResto]

The thought crossed my mind, but with the amount of engineering Equipe puts into their products, I have to believe there is a reason for the way they are built. Plus, mounting the $650ea shocks in a non standard orientation just did not sit right with me. In the end it was a royal bitch to trim the first one, but once I had it I just made a cardboard template and cut the other one out. In hindsight the absolute A number one way to do it all would have been to trim the inner wings prior to the trip to the galvanizers, so they could be blasted and re-dipped- then once everything was installed pull the towers and have the silver paint stripped off and then powdercoat. I powdercoated before installing the wings and ended up with a couple light scratches even after wrapping them in a masking tape cocoon.

Also unless my memory fails me, and it might be, there is no easy way to rotate and re-drill the towers I have here- due to the fact that the retainer studs would end up under the tube? I'll take a look later.



Steven do you think I should loosen the main bulkhead bolts, bolt down the wings where I want them, then retighten the bulkhead before finalizing the door adjustments?


I've never had any issues mounting wings to a tightened bulkhead, nor has door adjustment been an issue. Doors typically go on last when we build a truck. I don't think you'll have any issues doing it with a loosened bulkhead though. You may discover that it is easier.

If you look at the tower (on our kit anyways) there's a flat spot that will align with the inner edge of the upper perch, which led me to believe that the towers were intended to be mounted in that position. When mounted in the original holes Marsland provided, the tower actually hangs over the edge.

To mount, I re-drilled the chassis and rotated the retainer and tower to the 'proper' angle.

[chrisvonc]

Joel.. any interest in giving up those shocks from that Freelander in the background?

[crown14]

Why do you ask? Please dont say you have one of these things...

[chrisvonc]

Sadly I do.. the shocks are finished.

[crown14]

I'll PM you

[Wolf Fabrication]

I see you also have the Craftsman rolly-stool that likes to dump you on your ass and roll off down the driveway and into the street.
Holy crap, I thought I was the only one!

[crown14]

You guys will be proud, been worked on the truck yesterday afternoon, all last night and all day today.


Pics coming later (if I don't fall asleep)

[woldd90]

Looking forward to it.

[crown14]

I finished for the night, got ready for bed, grabbed the laptop, uploaded the pics from the memory card, made it as far as opening D90 Source and clicking on the thread... and woke up a little while ago.

Getting back in the swing of things again now. Might not look like much progress picture wise, but it is really coming back together now. All the glass is in and all the body panels in place, got all the little details in place and hit the switch- had to adjust the idle bleed a little but the truck starts and runs great.

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_9076-1.jpg

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_9077-1.jpg

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_9088.jpg

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_9095.jpg

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_9108.jpg

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_9122.jpg


Today I am need to find a skinnier condenser fan. I had a feeling it was gonna be a little tight once the front end was assembled, and it was. About 3/8". Wish I could get one last nice day this year where I can coat the front door panels. All the interior color change parts so far I have followed the process to a T, and all have turned out fantastic and I really need the door panels to match.

Follow-up Post:

ALSO

If anyone has a QT drag link could you take some detailed pictures of the ends for me? And maybe a measurement from the centerline of the steering drop arm to the centerline of the RH end. I am afraid they might have shipped me the wrong part from taking a quick look at it last night. If the end with the tie rod is supposed to have a nut then I am missing that too.

[crown14]

Got the fan taken care of and got the cage mounted today, although its coming back off tomorrow so I can finish the wiring for the X-lites.

[crown14]

Why is it more people keep up with this thread when nothing is happening to the truck? LOL

Follow-up Post:

Had a small problem with the alternator not charging, I was worried my choice of a higher output GEMS Range Rover alt. was the problem but it turned out that the powdercoat on the bracket was keeping the alternator case from being finding a good ground. Made an 8g ground lead and it works perfectly.

Got the X-Lites mounted on the roll bar and hid the power/ground wires in the tube. Obviously you have to be careful doing this if you dont want to be blowing fuses left and right. Truck starts and runs like a dream, only thing left up front now is the drag link which I am missing jamb nuts for and thats about it. I bled the brakes and backed it out of the garage tonight on its own power and boy did it feel nice. Its been here almost a year now.

[evilfij]

We follow it all the time and only complain when there are not updats. ;)

I like the lights.

[crown14]

What about the hood hinges? They are galvy underneath the powdercoat. images/smilies/biggrin.gif I hope its turning out as nice as I planned it to be, my goals for it have been in my head as long as it has been in the garage and at this point its all so familiar that I am losing perspective on it.

[cgalpin]

I'm not sure I'm a fan of the black hinges (door or hood) but it doesn't diminish the excellent job you have done on this. It looks awesome. :clap

[tebby]

Joel....mount the mach 5s already!!!

[MUDSUX]

Why is it more people keep up with this thread when nothing is happening to the truck? LOL
Because that truck and its rebuild is freakin awesome.

[marcingham]

"Joel....mount the mach 5s already!!!"

What he said!!! I am with you. I want to see those wheels and tires on there bad.

I know why he isn't doing it (couldn't get it back in the garage), but almost want to ask him to do it just for a pic and them take them back off. But let's not distract the man, he is on a roll.

[crown14]

Also haven't found someone I trust with those $250/ea wheels!

[woldd90]

Also haven't found someone I trust with those $250/ea wheels!Get a set of Boost instead... They won't be $250 each unless you buy Barry's.

[bjf]

The price of my wheels is very affordable now/

[woldd90]

The price of my wheels is very affordable now/Perfect... Just buy Barry's instead.

[crown14]

After some very chilly temps yesterday and more rain than I can ever remember falling overnight todays temp is right around 70- perfect to do the door panels. Now to find breaks in the 20mph winds....

[130Tdi]

Joel- pictures !

[crown14]

There coming, I promise! It takes me a while to upload to the laptop and then resize them to be small enough for D90 source.

[crown14]

OK

Replacing the A/C vents is a very nice touch. Those of you who have not had to deal with broken vents yet, it is only a matter of time. Those of you who avoid touching the vents for fear of breaking them- go ahead and replace them! New ones feel so much more solid!

Since we removed the original '97 console (it is long gone so don't ask) I did some digging and found a way to cover the fuse panel with the correct type cover. I can't remember exactly how I found it but once I trimmed about 3in off the top it fits nicely with even with the AC. If you dont have AC, you would not have to trim it.

Got the rear door check installed, it works nicely, looks pretty good too.

Follow-up Post:

OK

DOOR PANELS!

First of all, I have attached a pic of the door panels/door cards that came on the 2007 doors. Visually they appear the exact same, except the '07 doors did not have speakers installed or any wiring going into them at all. There is another slight difference I will illustrate later. Plus since everything in the interior had already been color changed from grey to black I decided to use the 1997 door cards (also pictured) and just make them black to match. The final result is very nice as you can see.

Once installed, I noticed that one small section of the 1997 door panel needs to be trimmed to fit the shape of the 2007 door. It is not a huge difference, and is easily done with a utility knife. I am pointing to the area in the picture that needs trimming.

[JimC]

Hey Joel - did you use the Duplicolor stuff to make the door panels black?

[crown14]

I use the SEM stuff purchased thru Eastwood. Plastic/Leather Prep, then Sand Free, then Color Coat. This is Landau Black.

[crown14]

I decided to use the 1997 door cards ...and upon further review I changed my mind again and decided to make holes in the '07 panels. Pics coming later.

[JimC]

Did the black come out OK or did you change your mind for other reasons? I need to make my 2nd row door panels black to match the new front ones and I don't want it to look crappy.

[nikojo]

Joel......did you take apart the 07 door to paint, ie take out the window regulator, window felt, etc??

Any pics on that process if you did??

[JimC]

John, check this out:
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11092&page=2&pp=20

Its not a detailed description by any means but there are some pix to look at. I stripped the doors completely to get them painted (both the doors for the 90 and the ones for the 110). I think its the only way to go, especially since they aren't that hard to take to bits. Just ping me if you need a write up. I've got lots more pix back at my place on an external drive.

[ipgregory]

OK

Since we removed the original '97 console (it is long gone so don't ask) I did some digging and found a way to cover the fuse panel with the correct type cover. I can't remember exactly how I found it but once I trimmed about 3in off the top it fits nicely with even with the AC. If you dont have AC, you would not have to trim it.

I have been considering this myself as the stock console is a PITA for access to the relays/fuses and pretty flimsy feeling.

Had a look back through the thread but couldn't find a good pic to show what you have put in it's place between the seats around the shifter? Or have you not got there yet?

Interested in seeing what you have or are going to do.

Thanks

Ian

[crown14]

Did the black come out OK or did you change your mind for other reasons? I need to make my 2nd row door panels black to match the new front ones and I don't want it to look crappy.The black on the first panel came out perfect like everything else I changed from grey. The second panel I think I started too late in the day and a quick shift in humidity caused it to flatten as it cured. Also the 07 panels seemed to fit better on the doors, and upon closer inspection are thicker and stronger than the the original ones.

Follow-up Post:

Joel......did you take apart the 07 door to paint, ie take out the window regulator, window felt, etc??

Any pics on that process if you did??Yes and yes, but my pics wont help you much. Damn sure didnt help me when it was time to put them back together. Two tips here, be patient and look carefully for ALL the little screws before forcing everything. Twice I thought I had them all and found one more when I double checked. Also, one door may not be the same as the other, they seemed to just put in however many screws they felt like when the doors were assembled.

Follow-up Post:

I have been considering this myself as the stock console is a PITA for access to the relays/fuses and pretty flimsy feeling.

Had a look back through the thread but couldn't find a good pic to show what you have put in it's place between the seats around the shifter? Or have you not got there yet?
Ian, for now the stock shifter is in place on the original pedestal arrangement. We had a tuffy console to put in but I think Marc is going to handle that when I am done with the rest of the truck. Going to build a nice custom part onto it out of starboard I think to trim out the shifter.

This truck is also getting a folding/locking rear seat, Engle, etc.

Follow-up Post:

First off the speaker holes in the original panels were nowhere near big enough for the new Polk speakers. Using the 07 panels meant I had to cut holes for the speakers and the wiring pass-thru. I scored the large hole with a compass on both sides then carefully cut it out with a utility knife. These are some kind of european earth friendly fiberglass material, so be careful not to scratch your balls during the process.

The speakers have a 2.5in mounting depth so I used the spacer that came with them, and had to cut a little off the brace inside the door. (I went back with a peice of flat bar and riveted it across where I cut to reinforce it after)


I forget if I mentioned anything about the audio in the truck yet, it consists of Polk db 6.5 speakers front and rear (marine rated) and an Alpine IDA-x305 "digital media reciever" (plays radio and iPod, no CDs, no tapes) and something called the Alpine Power Pack. It connects directly to the stereo and boosts its output to 45W per channel RMS instead of 16W or 20W or whatever it is originally. Essentially a 4 channel amplifier without having to find somewhere to mount it or having to wire it. http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&ct=res&cd=4&ved=0CBcQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.crutchfield.com%2FISEO-rgbtcspd%2Fp_500KTP445%2FAlpine-KTP-445-Power-Pack.html&ei=Ra0hS_fgKJCXtgfm8cHnBw&usg=AFQjCNFR5AM1CrkRkUl2Kvh40Vbzjw8a8Q&sig2=PZLtrlcwHBC1jHyVomVMGw

Once I got it all installed I liked it so much I basically bought the exact same system and put it in my Disco. Very clear, perfect power for the Polk db speakers and it is nearly impossible to get it to distort.

[tebby]

Joel...(post 109)...any tips for running the wires through the roll cage and drilling into the mount under the cage/and through the firewall? Did you mount relays under the hood or drivers seat...additional pics would be awesome. Been planning this for a while...just haven't got around to it. thanks j

[crown14]

There are plenty of holes in the firewall already, I will try and find a pic of what I used. Relays are mounted on the firewall behind the air cleaner. I drilled holes to pass the wire through in the roll bar prior to it going out for sandblasting and powdercoating. The hole in the mount in the fender was drilled to match so the wires wouldnt get pinched. Kinda tricky but hiding the power/ground inside is a nice touch I think.

[KKilo23]

Looking good..

[crown14]

Got the swing out spare tire carrier mounted today, mounted and wired the modified X-lite on it and finished up the rear door.

[rover4x4]

Got the swing out spare tire carrier mounted today, mounted and wired the modified X-lite on it and finished up the rear door.

Which one did you end up using?

[crown14]

The Bearmach one :embarress

Honestly the drilling through the body part wasn't so bad. But if you arent careful installing it, you could end up with a bunch of really ugly holes all over the place. I spent at least 6 hours on it just making sure it was right.

[tebby]

Joel...what gauge wires did you run for your lights? thanks j

[crown14]

14 guage wire

[crown14]

more pictures- showing where wiring passes through bulkhead for dash switches, spare tire carrier plus rear floodlamp, etc

also assembled but uncleaned and VERY dusty interior shots

more from todays work on the way... soon (hopefully)

Follow-up Post:

TODAY I cleaned up the whole interior, trimmed and installed the new front rubber mats, replaced the front seat shoulder belts (worn a little from being closed in the door?), and spent a good while fine tuning the adjustments for the hood (bonnet) so that the wing top protectors (Equipe) can be installed...

also drilled the hole for the antenna and since the powdercoat/adonizing (whatever) on the wing protectors didnt match closely enough they are going to my powdercoater ASAP... meaning I had to smooth out some rough spots first.

Is anyone else running wingtop protection from Equip? How do they fit?

[rover4x4]

whats the deal with the console?

[TDI Guy]

How do you like those seats Joel?

[deslandes]

Really fanstatic looking ninety, have you already take pictures with LTB-08? (Can you please give me exact dimensions of these?)

Regards

[tebby]

Joel....are those black AL/anodized door hinges...or did you paint them? If you painted..do you know what color code you used? thanks for all the responses!!!

i've got those heated seats as well...not super warm but definitely helps in the cold weather!!!

[crown14]

whats the deal with the console?Post #141, top of this page

How do you like those seats Joel?The tilt mechanism feels flimsy, they are a little too wide and contact the roll bar when slid all the way back (look close at the roll bar pads), the frames seem to be a little off square making them hard to slide at times, they are actually somewhere between dark grey and black, and the leather does not feel like leather. They are on Mud UK seat rails though so that's why they hit the roll bar. Just my opinion here. Knowing what I know now I would have rather kept the original seats and used an Exmoor retrim kit instead. The seatback tilt thing is the nail in the coffin for me, I hate that feeling.

Really fanstatic looking ninety, have you already take pictures with LTB-08? (Can you please give me exact dimensions of these?)

RegardsSorry, what is an LTB-08? These pictures are from last night, the truck is pretty much as you see it here.

Joel....are those black AL/anodized door hinges...or did you paint them? If you painted..do you know what color code you used? thanks for all the responses!!!

i've got those heated seats as well...not super warm but definitely helps in the cold weather!!!These are the black alloy hinges from AB, I did not paint them but they match the powdercoat really well. The seats we used aren't heated, I understand that was an option but its going to live at the beach, really a summertime vehicle.

[deslandes]

Sorry, I was talking about 285/75-16 SSR as I want to buy this one, I'm just trying to find pictures of a ninety with those tires.... Can you do it for me?


"Page 1 : Follow-up Post:

now the fun part, I won't be too descriptive (this way you can have more fun looking at the pics)

new tires (285/75-16 SSR, measure out to 33.9)"

[crown14]

Sorry, I was talking about 285/75-16 SSR as I want to buy this one, I'm just trying to find pictures of a ninety with those tires.... Can you do it for me?


"Page 1 : Follow-up Post:

now the fun part, I won't be too descriptive (this way you can have more fun looking at the pics)

new tires (285/75-16 SSR, measure out to 33.9)"Don't worry, as soon as those tires/wheels get installed D90 Source gets the first update complete with pics!

[marcingham]

Joel - are those rocksliders I see there?

[crown14]

Joel - are those rocksliders I see there?

yes... But.

Hate typing on phone

yes.

[specops1526]

Is that a naked chick on your iPhone?

http://www.d-90.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=23684

[cgalpin]

ROFL. I'm surprised you didn't warn him there was someone hiding behind the truck!

[crown14]

Joel - are those rocksliders I see there?Yeah, but you know that?



Is that a naked chick on your iPhone?No! She has some clothes on. Remember the old nudie inkpens, turn them upside down and the girls clothes come off? Well, yeah, "there's an app for that."



ROFL. I'm surprised you didn't warn him there was someone hiding behind the truck!Good catch!




Some updates, switched to green/amber illuminated swiches instead of the white/amber ones. Installed some other stuff too. :cool:

[specops1526]

Y
No! She has some clothes on. Remember the old nudie inkpens, turn them upside down and the girls clothes come off? Well, yeah, "there's an app for that."

Damn, too bad, naked is much better.

[crown14]

Yeah I thought they would be naked when I downloaded it. Oh well.

[130Tdi]

digging the black interior panels

[Rugbier]

I can see Joel making the AT&T commercial for Iphone

" If a naked bimbo on your phone is what you want, well there is an App for that "

[TDI Guy]

what winch is that

[crown14]

Warn 9.5XP

[Mighty]

i love the four lights in the cage!

[crown14]

Those are X-Lites by X-Engineering in the UK, much brighter than they look.

I need to mount the rear seat and the rearview mirror inside, but aside from that and anymore door check adjustments I might make, she is pretty much buttoned up inside.

Outside, well I am dying to mount the flares and the last sidemarker, but the reality is there is some touch up bodywork to do on the RH rear corner and the paint needs to be buffed. The thought of compound splatter everywhere terrifies me so the flares probably wont go on yet, and the grille/etc might actually come off for that.

[Wolf Fabrication]

Joel,
Should I still be expecting you for a custom roof rack?

[crown14]

I believe the truck will be headed your way sometime in January? I may haul it up there for the owner, not sure yet on all the details.

[Wolf Fabrication]

Cool, no rush, not like it's gong to get any colder in my garage now (I hope not)! I think our/your best option is to build it, powdercoat, and instal while it's up here. I'd love to get it galvanized first, but that will take a little time as the gavly guy is up in Baltimore. Shoot me an email or PM when you are getting close so I can order the parts for it.

[cgalpin]

I may haul it up there for the owner, not sure yet on all the details.
Better warn us so we can schedule a happy hour!

[crown14]

Cool, no rush, not like it's gong to get any colder in my garage now (I hope not)! I think our/your best option is to build it, powdercoat, and instal while it's up here. I'd love to get it galvanized first, but that will take a little time as the gavly guy is up in Baltimore. Shoot me an email or PM when you are getting close so I can order the parts for it.Better warn us so we can schedule a happy hour!Oh anytime I am heading northbound I will be sure to announce it.

Follow-up Post:

Spent today finishing up a lot of little loose ends. Also I got that rear Exmoor rear seat monstrosity installed today, (sorry didnt get any pics yet) what a weird contraption. Looks like I will have some more painting to to as well, since when you order it in black it comes trimmed in grey plastic. :confused

[crown14]

Took me a few tries to find a local shop with: A) employees competent enough to understand how to put dynabeads in a tire B) confidence in their ability to mount tires on expensive, rare wheels without damaging them and C) time to do the job. Finally got lucky though and look

[crown14]

THE MOMENT YOU ALL (some) HAVE BEEN WAITING FOR...

[bjf]

You know what apart I thought the color was ugly. Together it looks awesome.

[deslandes]

Really amazing truck, and I really like color (In france, our 50th anniversary defender have the same...).
Great looking with tires too ;-)
Do you drive a little or just go out the garage?
What is your 1st opinion about those tires?

Thx

Follow-up Post:

http://aebergon.perso.neuf.fr/Land_Rover/page_Land_Def_50th_1999.htm

[KKilo23]

Looks great, congrats on getting it done.

[imeek]

Joel, can I send you my truck? j/k

Very nicely done. I enjoyed this thread and look forward to the next one. Hope the new owner appreciates all the work that has gone into it, but doesn't make it a garage queen.

[cgalpin]

Awesome!

[woldd90]

Excellent work Joel...

[crown14]

thanks fellas

Still got to get the wing protectors on, which I am on the fence about, and some other little odds and ends.

Follow-up Post:

Really amazing truck, and I really like color (In france, our 50th anniversary defender have the same...).
Great looking with tires too ;-)
Do you drive a little or just go out the garage?
What is your 1st opinion about those tires?

Thx

Follow-up Post:

http://aebergon.perso.neuf.fr/Land_Rover/page_Land_Def_50th_1999.htmThat French 50th truck is pretty cool!

I put about 5 quick miles on it, went to the gas station, down the highway a little, etc. The tires are louder than I expected but I do not think they are obnoxious. You really only hear them if the window is down. Seems I have heard from a couple of good old boys that these tires are similar to some other Interco tires in that they have a "break in period" from new? Maybe they will get a little quieter after some more miles. To my utter surprise, once I aired them down below 5psi I was able to get the truck back in the garage last night, with a little room to spare.

[leastonce]

What a fantastic job and a great looking end result!

[rover4x4]

I vote no for the wing protectors, its to nice to drill holes in.

[crown14]

I vote no for the wing protectors, its to nice to drill holes in.Your and my votes don't count. :(

[deslandes]

I think black wings protectors should be nice (and usefull too), so +1 for me

[deslandes]

Hi Joel, I think your on holiday, no?

Can I ask you to post more pict about your truck, front, side rear?

Thx in advance.

Ste

[crown14]

Ste- holiday? What holiday?? :D I took it slow for a couple of days but I will get some more pics real soon, got the window tint done today so getting closer towards the final product. Next up I believe the truck goes back to paint/body to get a little touch-up and to be buffed out.

Also got the A/C system properly recharged today and the alignment set to specification. The alignment made quite the difference, even though it was not far off the steering feels more precise now and the steering wheel properly self-centers after a turn. My personal truck will be getting a proper alignment in the very near future for sure, although I doubt my buddy and his co-workers will be quite as awestruck by my Disco.

New wheel arch eyebrows came Christmas Eve, but Greg at RN forgot one of the rears. They are the gloss style eyebrows so I will likely end up hitting them with adhesion promoter and painting them with a matte texture paint that contains a lot of flex agent. Over-the-counter aerosol spray on bedliner with a top coat of semi gloss paint was suggested by one of the Orlando boys, but somehow doesn't seem appropriate here. I thought of getting them Line-X'd but not sure if we want to take any more artistic license with the truck than we already have.

An Engle fridge has arrived as well, but I don't know. The thing is a monster, and it is grey. Might have to paint it black too?:tounge


Oh and there is a mysterious driveline hum, most likely from the rear, between 40 and 47 MPH (GPS) that sounds ominous. A good friend pointed out to me that the problem could actually be directly related to driveline angles, possibly due to the fact that the Equipe rear links are not adjustable this really worries me. A quick and approximate look at the trusty angle finder suggests the transfer case flange is ~2deg, the tube of the shaft ~14deg and the rear diff flange ~7deg. Not being the expert on ALL things I am not sure if this means I have figured it out or not, but until I find the time to do some research I am not likely to sleep very well.

The more I look at it the more I really want to get the tailpipe re worked to fit better and perhaps get a better sounding muffler on the truck but that last part will be up to the owner.

Follow-up Post:

HMM

Seems like anything more than 1deg difference between the output flange at the tcase and the differential flange is a no-no for a regular 2 joint driveshaft. From my angle finder experiment- a 5deg difference between the flanges would certianly call for a double cardan rear shaft, trouble is, that is exactly what I am trying to run. The shaft was even custom made by GBR according to measurements I took so it would work properly with the Expedition kit. DAMN I get the feeling I am going to have to pull the shaft and measure again and call GBR. My initial instincts tell me the noise is in the diff but the diff was tried in another truck and it was quiet!! And before anyone asks, yes it has fluid in it, correct type and amount, etc.

[evilfij]

Is the drive shaft properly out of phase?

[deslandes]

Great job, really (and sorry for "holiday")... I'm really waiting for new picts as I'm a real fan of your job.
Regarding the bad vibs have you got in your set up suspension corrected arms?

Thx,

Ste

[Wolf Fabrication]

Is the drive shaft properly out of phase?
Yeah, check that, I've had that issue before myself. Fixing it cleared up the noise. But for me it was on my Jeep and the driveshaft yokes needed to be in phase, or aligned.

[TDI Guy]

THis is a simple fix. You have to get some spacers to install on top of your trailing arms. IT will lenghthen them and drop your pinion angle down to almost match your t-case. IF your t-case is 2deg you can prob get away with 3-4 deg on the pinion. This is why I like RYM rear links so much. THey come with a spacer pack/set so you can adjust your angle corectly..

Follow-up Post:

Oh... and the truck looks great.

[Campbell]

I wish I was that talented.

Outstanding build.

[crown14]

Is the drive shaft properly out of phase?Not sure what you mean Ron?

Follow-up Post:

THis is a simple fix. You have to get some spacers to install on top of your trailing arms. IT will lenghthen them and drop your pinion angle down to almost match your t-case. IF your t-case is 2deg you can prob get away with 3-4 deg on the pinion. This is why I like RYM rear links so much. THey come with a spacer pack/set so you can adjust your angle corectly..

Follow-up Post:

Oh... and the truck looks great.
I guess by RYM you mean Rovertym/RTE? I have those on my Disco, yes they are great but you cannot shim out the Equipe rear links- the threaded part is too damn short. As they are, they are the minimum length for proper use of the nylock nut. Might could get a pair of metal locking nut, but doubt it would give me enough length back to make the difference...

[jaygoss]

Joel,

I saw those x-lites a few months ago and liked the concept/looks of of them but I have been hesitant to throw down the coin as I'm not sure what sort of light output they give off. Now that you've installed them can you gauge whether or not they are as bright/powerful as a set of traditional Hella's? I love the way you ran the wiring through the roll bar; very clean. I'm inclined to copy you if the lights work as well as they look.

[crown14]

Joel,

I saw those x-lites a few months ago and liked the concept/looks of of them but I have been hesitant to throw down the coin as I'm not sure what sort of light output they give off. Now that you've installed them can you gauge whether or not they are as bright/powerful as a set of traditional Hella's? I love the way you ran the wiring through the roll bar; very clean. I'm inclined to copy you if the lights work as well as they look.I feel they are pretty bright, but you are onto something here. Perhaps a full on side by side comparison between the X-Lites on the D90 and my Disco's Hella 4000s is in order!

[deslandes]

You can try something :

- Remove le front driveshaft, lock your transfert and check if you have the bad vibs
- Same thing with the rear

If you have a bad balanced or phased propshaft, it will cause a problem.

[TDI Guy]

Not sure what you mean Ron?

Follow-up Post:


I guess by RYM you mean Rovertym/RTE? I have those on my Disco, yes they are great but you cannot shim out the Equipe rear links- the threaded part is too damn short. As they are, they are the minimum length for proper use of the nylock nut. Might could get a pair of metal locking nut, but doubt it would give me enough length back to make the difference...


Joel, you can always swap out the RYM links from the disco to try it as well. I am positive that would cure the problem. I had the stranges noise when I did the series coiler and that it was a t-case bearing. IT was actually the rear shaft at that speed that just started making the strangest noise. I ended up making some spacers on the lathe. I only needed about 3/8" and it dropped the angle just enough. No more noise.

Or shim the ones you have even know the the nut will not lock well and just test it around the block. If it goes away, then I would go for different links and be done with it.. :) Whats a few more $$$$$ lol

[crown14]

Or shim the ones you have even know the the nut will not lock well and just test it around the block. If it goes away, then I would go for different links and be done with it.. images/smilies/happy.gif Whats a few more $$$$$ lolYeah that is what I am thinking too.

[jaygoss]

I feel they are pretty bright, but you are onto something here. Perhaps a full on side by side comparison between the X-Lites on the D90 and my Disco's Hella 4000s is in order!Yes PLEASE!!!

[crown14]

OK

X-Lite vs. Hella 4000 Comparison Test will happen tonight then. I am thinking find a good spot with an object like a shed in the distance and then one at at time park each truck in the same location and take a photo showing how well the shed is illuminated. Ill try and get a shot without the headlamps on, then one with, etc etc.

I will go ahead and point out a couple of things that might matter to most people regarding these lamps. First, the Hella 4K uses a 100W bulb. That means that as the available battery voltage changes, a pair will draw as high as 22A depending on if you are winching or running down the road. So the most you can power through one 30A relay is two- and as most everone throws 4 on the roof, there is a little extra work in wiring two relays to power two pair. The X-Lites however are only 50W each, meaning it is safe to wire all 4 together powered by a single 30A relay. Also for the Hella 4K, most of your local parts stores will have replacement bulbs of the same physical type but with a 50 or 55 watt rating- if you burn out a bulb replacements can sometimes be tough to find. The X-lites use bulbs straight out of light fixtures found in homes and offices, I literally have several of the same bulbs hanging from a ugly lamp in my kitchen. While the Hellas can get pretty warm, the bulb is pretty well protected inside the housing. The bulb is well exposed on the x-lite and I am pretty sure it gets quite hot- a splash of water on it might be all it takes to blow the bulb. Covers are available for the hellas (3 types at least) but nothing for the X-lites. Hella 4000s are designed to be, and usually are, waterproof. The X-lites have a big open hole in the bottom where the wiring enters. The actual bulb is the same for all 4000s and it is protected behind the lens. Different variants (euro beam, pencil beam, fog, etc) of the 4000 are created by using different combinations of reflectors and lenses. The lens is part of the bulb itself on the x-lite, and the spot and fog variants are only different in bulb design alone. The Hella 4K mounts in the traditional way on a stud, then is adjusted on a special swivel mount. It can be pointed up/down to a certian extent and adjusted left/right easily. The X-lite butts up against the roll bar and mounts via a standard type hose clamp and can only be adjusted up/down.

[crown14]

Ste: I got your pictures taken today, but later it was so cold I hit the wrong button and deleted ALL of them, so I will try again tomorrow. :angry



OK
No flash was used, pictures were taken after dark, before the moon was high enough to make a difference. The first pics were taken 20 feet in front of the truck with just headlamps on, second with headlamps and roof lamps. Then from inside, center of the dash area, .5 second exposure- first with just headlamps, then with headlamps and roof lamps. No highbeams were used at all.

The D90 has stock headlamp wiring, with brand new Sylvania Silverstar Headlamps, and mounted to the top of the roll bar over the windscreen- two fog X-Lites (outer) and two spot X-lites (inner).

The Disco has stock headlamp wiring, with 2yr old Sylvania Silverstar bulbs, in dirty D2 housings that are almost 4 years old and at least one has condensation inside at the moment. On the roof rack are 4 Hella 4000 Euro beam lamps.

Voltmeters on both trucks read 13.7 volts at time of test.

1. D90 with just headlamps on
2. D90 with headlamps and X-Lites on
3. D90 just headlamps
4. D90 headlamps and X-Lites

5. Disco with just headlamps
6. Disco with headlamps and Hellas on
7. Disco with just headlamps
8. Disco with all lamps on

You be the judge!!

[crown14]

Or shim the ones you have even know the the nut will not lock well and just test it around the block. If it goes away, then I would go for different links and be done with it.. :) Whats a few more $$$$$ lolToday I bit the bullet and made an attempt to shim the rear links out, went as far as I could and still get the nut on there (about 1/2 inch) and it wasn't enough. I looked on the Disco and the RTE links are shimmed out 13/16 and I don't think that is even quite enough.



ALSO I MEASURED THE TIRES and at 40psi they only measure 32 11/16 tall, and the tread is 9.5 wide. Kinda lame considering the Interco spec is 33.9 and 11.4 wide. They sure look big as hell though.

[jaygoss]

1. D90 with just headlamps on
2. D90 with headlamps and X-Lites on
3. D90 just headlamps
4. D90 headlamps and X-Lites

5. Disco with just headlamps
6. Disco with headlamps and Hellas on
7. Disco with just headlamps
8. Disco with all lamps on

You be the judge!!Wow. Thanks Joel for taking the time to do that. It looks like the D90's lights are aimed a little lower than the Disco's as the glare is much more in the "frontal" shot. That being said, the Hella's seem too give off a crisper image with a more focused beam. If anyone else interprets this differently let me know- this is just an amateur observation. i like the looks of the new lights on the Rover but I like the performance of the Hella's- enough to offset the coolness factor of the X-Lites. I think you just saved me some $ and possible buyers remorse! Thank you!!!

[crown14]

Jay the Disco is a lot taller too. I agree the X-Lites look great, and dont get me wrong, they do put out a lot of light, but its hard to compete with the sheer size and double wattage of the Hellas. Keep in mind also that I am using Euro beam 4000s. If I had a more similar array to the two fog and two spot on the D-90, such as two fog 4000s and two pencil 4000 it wouldnt even be close to a fair fight.

What really made the difference for me is behind that shed is another house, and then a 6 lane highway, and an intersection with a RR crossing. With the Hellas I could light up the reflective tape on the crossing arms from over 120 yards.

[deslandes]

Today I bit the bullet and made an attempt to shim the rear links out, went as far as I could and still get the nut on there (about 1/2 inch) and it wasn't enough. I looked on the Disco and the RTE links are shimmed out 13/16 and I don't think that is even quite enough.



ALSO I MEASURED THE TIRES and at 40psi they only measure 32 11/16 tall, and the tread is 9.5 wide. Kinda lame considering the Interco spec is 33.9 and 11.4 wide. They sure look big as hell though.
Thanks a lot for the measure...

[crown14]

few pics

[KKilo23]

few pics
Joel, came out great! That color looks good on the black.

[crown14]

Yeah I think the window tint looks pretty good, its max legal in NC, 35%.

What do you all think of the tailpipe? Does it seem to stick out in an odd way?

Keep in mind I have not resolved the fender flare situation yet or gotten the wingtop protectors on, so its not done yet.

[cgalpin]

What do you all think of the tailpipe? Does it seem to stick out in an odd way?
That's how mine used to look. It will change if you take it on trails though :grin

[kiefffff]

I love this truck. Great job. Tailpipe looks fine.

[rover4x4]

tailpipe looks stock, how much was the tint job?

[crown14]

Tailpipe is stock, tint is 35%

------ Follow up post added January 7th, 2010 01:20 PM ------

http://i424.photobucket.com/albums/pp327/BuckhornImports/Projects/1997%20Defender%2090/100_9407.jpg

[draaronr]

get that shit bent right so it comes from the top down.

[nikojo]

Yeah I think the window tint looks pretty good, its max legal in NC, 35%.

What do you all think of the tailpipe? Does it seem to stick out in an odd way?

Keep in mind I have not resolved the fender flare situation yet or gotten the wingtop protectors on, so its not done yet.

Rear bumper needs to be black to balance front bumper and sliders......doesn't look right.

[crown14]

Truck's gone to the paint shop today, big problem now is finding a suitable paint for the new fender flares...

[crown14]

I think we vetoed 3 dozen paints before just deciding to just go with a Dupont flat plastic paint for the fender flares, but they should look fine. Truck will be back from the paint shop possibly as soon as tomorrow, then I can finish up the list of little left-over items-

Wingtop Protectors
Rear seat trim
Right Rear sidemarker
Aim X-lites
Front Diff guard
new RTE rear links


Found a place local who can hopefully modify the Tuffy console we have to work in the truck, then the Engle can go in. Then its detail, snap a few final pics and I'll be done. (fingers crossed!)

[ipgregory]

Found a place local who can hopefully modify the Tuffy console we have to work in the truck, then the Engle can go in. Then its detail, snap a few final pics and I'll be done. (fingers crossed!)

Be very interested to see what you do with the Tuffy to accomodate the Auto set up. Waiting patiently for lots of pics.... :)

[crown14]

Here is the basic idea...

[bjf]

I say don't put the tuffy in or if you do try not to ruin the original console. People fight to get those things. Cutting one up seems wrong

[crown14]

Noone's cutting up the orignal console, trust me- it was sold not long after being removed from the truck. I think Safarirover may have even ended up with it in his soft top 110.

[bjf]

ha ok

[130Tdi]

Joel- want to part with the original cubby box ?

[woldd90]

Why did you guys sell the console off? After all the work you put in, I would get another one or pick up one of the Ashcroft replicas.

[ipgregory]

Here is the basic idea...

Not too keen on the way they modded the T-Case Shifter but the Tuffy mod doesn't look too bad. Certainly more secure for a S/T and easier for access to the relays/fuses than the stock one.

Lets see pics of yours once you've done it.

[crown14]

Joel- want to part with the original cubby box ?


Stephen has the original console I believe?

------ Follow up post added January 24th, 2010 08:14 PM ------

Why did you guys sell the console off? After all the work you put in, I would get another one or pick up one of the Ashcroft replicas.

Wasn't my call!

[crown14]

I think the flares came out pretty damn close to the original finish of the fender flares... or "eyebrow moldings" or whatever. Still not in love with the wingtop protectors but they look fantstic afrter being powdercoated to match the rest of the stuff on the truck.

[cgalpin]

Looks great Joel.

Just a personal preference but I'd prefer body colored hinges all round, or at least make the rear ones black too.

[bjf]

wow what exactly did you do to the flares? Were they shiny just repainted?

[draaronr]

fing bad ass, can't wait till it comes to Wilmington :)

[crown14]

wow what exactly did you do to the flares? Were they shiny just repainted?


The new flares were shiny, paintable type- not the matte finish type so I tracked down a proper Dupont plastic/vinyl paint that would be durable enough and match the original look. I forget the exact name of it, it does not come in aerosol cans, has to be sprayed thru a gun.

[130Tdi]

Wow. Nicely done Joel. Looks like a 70k truck to me....
Rear door hinges bare galv ? Like the look.

[crown14]

:angry

Got Rovertym rear links and A-arm spacer installed, driveshaft angles look fantastic now but I am not very happy with how close the ball joint is to the gas tank!

[woldd90]

Excellent work Joel... Can you give us any idea on cost, even a ball park?

[crown14]

Scott, I don't really know if I am cleared to say or not. I have heard a ballpark figure, but have not even added up the receipts I have here or anything (and I don't even have them all) and I have honestly had no communication with the client.


Maybe I will know for sure once I am finished and it is officially out of my hands, which honestly could be very very soon. Even then, it looks like it will be getting the console work and roof rack work done after that, so who knows.






This evening's update is not very good news, I am very unhappy with the rear suspension and am beginning to feel like the truck will leave before I get to work out the kinks.

------ Follow up post added January 26th, 2010 09:05 PM ------

UPDATE: I am hauling the 90 to Rovertym tomorrow to have the rear suspension set up, my back isn't cooperating with my workload at all and the owner is desperate to get the truck back... sadly, it may be the last time I see it but it has been a fun build for sure and an experience I will not soon forget.

[draaronr]

okay hold on, you put woodgrain and the penis cdl lever in? wtf, does Buck know? I bet Marc picked that didn't he :)

[crown14]

NO but I bet you remember Mike from MAR- he owned the big black '96 Disco on one-ton axles that I had to winch out of that mudhole after the auction Sat night? He owns that 90 with the Ratfink Tcase shifter and the $700 woodgrain shifter now.

[draaronr]

so you removed that stuff

[crown14]

No, if you look that picture is of a ST not a SW.

[draaronr]

No, if you look that picture is of a ST not a SW.
missed that, that's good.

[marcingham]

Joel,
I just picked up the 90 from Jordan. It drives great! No vibes, as solid/stable as any 4WD I have ever driven. Looks so sweet, too.

Good work, I know Buck will be happy. I will be sure to get pics of the center console.

[draaronr]

you bringing it to town tomorrow? what time

[Buyrovers]

you bringing it to town tomorrow? what time


Tomorrow....AFTER I DRIVE IT AROUND!!!!


Great job on this Joel, you never fail to impress.:)

[draaronr]

Tomorrow....AFTER I DRIVE IT AROUND!!!!


Great job on this Joel, you never fail to impress.:)

Nice, now way can we let Buck get it dirty first :) Looks great Joel, you should really think about making Rovers your day job :)

[Buyrovers]

Nice, now way can we let Buck get it dirty first :) Looks great Joel, you should really think about making Rovers your day job :)

Speaking of getting trucks dirty, we need to find a weekend and get everyone together with all these diesel turds and hang out. Gotta stop and have fun sometimes...


C-

[draaronr]

Speaking of getting trucks dirty, we need to find a weekend and get everyone together with all these diesel turds and hang out. Gotta stop and have fun sometimes...


C-

yeah can't wait till the safari in april. I am loving the td5, that engine is so smooth and quiet.

[crown14]

Marc came by today on the way to deliver the truck to its owner in Wilmington. We adjsuted the shocks for a more firm ride and the truck drives great. And thats about it! Next one comes in Sunday. :)

[Buyrovers]

Marc came by today on the way to deliver the truck to its owner in Wilmington. We adjsuted the shocks for a more firm ride and the truck drives great. And thats about it! Next one comes in Sunday. :)

I too had the luxury of driving this monster (prior to the shock adjustment) and it is absolutely unreal! I could not believe the details and overall quality of this truck at every inch... If anyone is ever wanting to have there truck restored, Joel is your man. ECR may be getting topped...:cool: