1983 110 rebuild...sort of...

[Gkase]

Thought I'd start this thread to put a stake in the ground that I'm committing to actually doing this. Got a 1983 110 RHD with a 4 cyl petrol engine in it and am taking it apart to check it out, cleaning it up, replacing what needs replacing, putting in a 200Tdi and then, hopefully, putting it back together again.
The frame looks solid and the only areas of rust are a coupl of minor spots next to the floor boards and the bottoms of the door frames, but looks do-able. I'm thinking of repainting it also...maybe Arles Blue, maybe leave it white...
enclosed is a pic in progress (which has halted while I replace the U joints on the 95 D90)...note the giant yellow Tupperware container which the 200Tdi was shipped in from England...it'd make a great hot tub or something...
George

[evilfij]

Looks to be in nice shape George. Good luck!

[discotdi]

nice looking 110/ who did you get the engine from, CSW? What kind of price if you don't mind telling?

[Gkase]

thanks Ron...Todd the kit was around $2400 which does not include a trans since I'm using the LT77 that the truck came with...

[Retrofit]

Correct me if I'm wrong but the diesel LT77 is more beefed up than the V8 LT77 at least that is what I was always led to believe.

Cool project, you will love the 200tdi sweet little engine ! Good luck and let me know if you need pics of engine bay from a 200tdi.

Pat

[Gkase]

Pat...don't know that there were different LT77s...maybe someone more plugged into the history side would know...but, yes, would love to see the engine bay layout! I have a 300tdi and for this project I wanted something without a serpentine belt...folks that have 200tdi all seem to love em...plus...it was a bit cheaper...

[Gkase]

I finally got all the bolts off and have the body on jacks and saw horses..am going to try to hook up a couple of simple rope hoists this weekend and lift it a few more inches to clear the tires and then roll the chassis into the driveway for cleaning and painting...I will pull together for future seekers of knowledge a list of all things to disconnect prior to attempting to remove the body from a 1983 110 and post in a couple of days...
obviously, more to come!
attached are two pix of support/jacking scheme employed so far...rear of body supported by rope tied to ceiling joist.
Note lack of any rust on A-pillars and B-pillars...surprised me.

[evilfij]

You have gone this far, you should get the frame blasted and galvanized.

[dave_lucas]

I see some rust in the footwells, what are your plans for the bulkhead? Are going to patch it and paint it? Patch and galvanize? replace it?

[Gkase]

so far I'm planning on cutting out the footwell rot and patching...there is no rust anywhere else on the bulkhead and it looks like the footwell panels are easily patched...I'm not sure I want to dive as deep as stripping the whole frame and figuring out how to get it to a galvanizing place and then trying to figure out how to put it all back together...hell, I'm just thrilled I've gotten this far...

[evilfij]

so far I'm planning on cutting out the footwell rot and patching...there is no rust anywhere else on the bulkhead and it looks like the footwell panels are easily patched...I'm not sure I want to dive as deep as stripping the whole frame and figuring out how to get it to a galvanizing place and then trying to figure out how to put it all back together...hell, I'm just thrilled I've gotten this far...

The hard part is done Gkase. Being in the chicago area, I am sure there is a galvanizer nearby.

[lynchee]

Jack on top of milk crate is great. Looks like something I would do:)

[tomaco1]

I believe that's illegal!

[130Tdi]

whats behind the five bar on the rear quarters ?

[Gkase]

behind the five bar is just panel...guess someone thought it looked good at some point...here's the latest pic...got the new engine out of the crate and the old engine out of the 110...am now dealing with all the chassis surface rust and will strip the bulkhead of parts for cleaning and paint before putting the 200Tdi in to it...sent the fuel tank out for testing and cleaning...next comes the RHD to LHD conversion then bolt in the Tdi...
more to come...
George

[dave_lucas]

have to agree with Ron at this point you should galvanize the chassis.

You have 99% of everything removed you might as well go ahead and dip it.

[evilfij]

have to agree with Ron at this point you should galvanize the chassis.

You have 99% of everything removed you might as well go ahead and dip it.

You can get the rest of the stuff off in a day, tops. Send it to be blasted and dipped. Should not be that much money. $1000 tops and worth 3x that in resale or avoided future headaches. And I know it is shipfitter's disease, but I would fix and dip or replace with new dipped the T-pieces. I can understand not disassembling the bulkhead and dipping it, but everything else ....

Ron

[discotdi]

It is so cool to see a Defender taken down to this stage. Must be very rewarding to know you did it! Hope you remember where it all goes.

[Cred]

George you really got it stripped down quickly. I am sure it will be gratifying when it all comes together.
I meant to call you back but I got my question answered today by Joe A.

[Gkase]

As for galvanizing...it just can't be in the cards for me...money and time won't permit...as for looking at it now that its all apart, here's a rather surprising observation as I review the past couple of weeks...it isn't as bad or complicated as you might think to pull it apart. It was totally overwhelming as I started out, but I just determined to keep at it one rusty bolt at a time and pretty soon, it was all apart. Its a rather ingenious design in that the driving systems and the coachwork are basically seperate. And if you have ever really worked on the Defender, like replacing a clutch or brake cylinder or starter...it is tough because there's stuff in the way, but once the body and doors are off of it, it really does become very straightforward to remove and replace stuff. I compare replacing the fuel tank from under neath on my D90 with taking out this 110s fuel tank and it was a piece of cake without the bodywork in the way...anyway, gonna see about putting new door frame bottoms in the front doors next...more pix to come...thanks for the observations and comments...as you all know, I wouldn't have even thought to try this 110 project without this great D-90.com resource!

[dave_lucas]

As for galvanizing...it just can't be in the cards for me...money and time won't permit...

Understood, sometimes time / money get in the way.

Around here it would cost between 400 and 500 to get it dipped and about 1 week, not sure about where you live.

[evilfij]

Understood on time and money, but at least take the time to wire wheel (get a wire wheel for a 4.5in angle grinder) and rust convert, prime and paint the bad areas and then spray the inside with waxyoil or if you are totally broke, the homemade stuff (toilet bowl wax rings, chain saw bar oil and turpintine I think is how they do it).

Ron

[Gkase]

Ron, absolutely on the de-rust routine...that has been what I've been doing for the last few days...I'll see if I can find the homemade waxoyl recipe online somewhere...what do people use to spray that stuff? needs a circular pattern spray I would guess...

[pendy]

Get as much waxoyl inside the frame as you can. That is where the 3M spray cans come into use well. Of course this can always be done at a later date.

An old style fire extingusher works for the home made waxoyl.

[discotdi]

homemade waxoil? you guys are a fountain of knowledge

[evilfij]

http://www.geocities.com/wallaces_21/waxoyl.html

here you go! I have heard of people using toilet bowl rings for wax too. Probably $10-20 worth of stuff to make a large batch.

[Gkase]

A little progress...bulkhead cleaned up, patched and painted a flat black since I'm still undecided on whether I will go through the effort of a new exterior paint color or not...am going to try to install 200Tdi today...more to come...

[Gkase]

Got the 200Tdi in...although quite a wrestling match, I can confirm that a 200Tdi is a straight bolt in proposition into a 1983 110 that came stock with a 4 cylinder petrol 2.25L engine and LT77 transmission.
George

[discotdi]

you going back right hand drive? nice work by the way!

[Gkase]

nope...it's been converted but I just haven't covered up the RHD holes in the bulkhead yet...

[stlnoble]

george

thanks for the great job on keeping us all posted on you project
i'm just getting in on the defenders and tring to find one to work on my self.
the guys on this site are wealth of info!!!!

patrick

stlnoble

[evilfij]

Protip, while you got everything apart, take the shift lever off and rotate it to the LHD position. :) Also, REPLACE THOSE SHOCK TOWERS. They look unsafe due to rust.

[Gkase]

Ron...thanks for the shifter tip...also, I have the shock towers...just haven't put em on yet...

[discotdi]

I am looking at a rhd 110 with a 2.25 NA diesel. is a disco or def. 200 a direct drop in? Scale of 1-10 how hard to do an R/R? One days work for a pro mech?

[Red90]

Defender with all the bits is a direct drop in. 10 to 12 hours labour.

Disco requires modifications. Time depends on how you choose to do the mods. If LHD, Disco will foul steering.

[Gkase]

OK...I guess as of today's efforts, I can officially say that this Land Rover is now a LHD 200Tdi 110...ya-hoo!

[Gkase]

just one more shot prior to dropping the body back on and beginning to run new fuel and hydraulic lines...
pushing it back up the driveway was interesting to say the least...new fuel tank...

[MUDSUX]

Man George wish I was at that stage. I should be getting the new frame soon. Just dropped a fortune on a completely new set of OME springs and shocks yesterday from the AB sale. Contemplating a new gas tank too. Mine is still relatively solid but it is 26 years old. Might as well change it out. Where did you get yours from and for how much? Trevor at RovahFarm has one for $250. Most likely be getting it there since I am getting a whole bunch of other stuff from him. Interested in seeing how you do your brake and fuel line. I have no idea where to even start.

[Gkase]

One of the first things I did after the body was off was take the fuel tank and the radiator and intercooler to be tested...there was a small leak in the fuel tank, the radiator needed to be recored and intercooler was ok...so, I also bought a new tank at RovahFarm along with other essentials from Rovers North, Rovers Down South, Safari and AB...as for bending pipe...I'm letting Glenn at therovershop do it...I know my limits :)

[JohnsD90]

You like it better as a LHD conv. ? :grin

[Gkase]

John,
I have not been able to drive it yet...it is now getting a new front axle (to complete the RHD ro LHD swap) and hooking up the wiring and fuel and hydraulic lines...but I am certain that driving a RHD truck is not for me in any circumstance. My brain just doesn't work like that. As I drove it before the project started I found everything to be so alien that I just stopped driving it until I could begin the conversion...once its converted, I am sure it will feel more "right"...

[Gkase]

Got the Disco I front axle and power steering box installed on Saturday...many thanks to Doug of Dividing Creek for his excellent suggestion for going this route...very straightforward...now the truck is steerable from the correct side of the universe! Next...new timing belt, water pump...fuel lines...etc etc etc...hope to be running before the snow flies.

[130Tdi]

You are over the hump. That little stuff goes quickly

[Gkase]

made huge progress finally yesterday...due to life and circumstances no giant steps forward since last November...did manage to source the Td5 dash connectors needed to wire up the dash so got that working...Glenn at therovershopinc.com installed the timing belt kit and built new hydraulic and fuel lines, new belts, and buttoned everything up...turned the ignition and she fired up the first time...dash pod warning lights all worked...200tdi sounded and smelled great! Put the fenders back on minus the new roll bar support brackets cause I realized am not sure how that's all supposed to go together yet, plus want to paint or powder coat em first...the only thing left is to wire up all the lights including the LED kit from East Coast Rovers that I've had for about 2 years in a box...man, this was a LOT of work....more to come, hopefully soon.
The snapshot is the critical application of Brakleen to timing belt compartment prior to belt and tensioner install...
George

[130Tdi]

glad to hear its up and running George. more pictures required

[MUDSUX]

Yeah George, more pics. Been waiting a long time to see your progress. Mine is no where close to engine start.

[Gkase]

Looks like next Saturday will be the next opportunity for pix...will post then...am currently looking for pix of other people's LHD 200tdi engine bay's to see how air cleaner and power steering reservoir mount...another couple of sessions and I think I can drive her home to finish the various non-critical details...two pieces of greater interest may be my sourcing of a roll bar maker who can fabricate the front cage for $450 and also my experiment with a $120 Summit Racing heater setup...more to come
George

[130Tdi]

Rugbier has my old truck and should be able to get you photo's of what you need if you pm him.

[Gkase]

thanks Doug...didn't realize you had a new truck...when and where did you get the crew cab? what's it got in it?

[Gkase]

Here's some pix...items have been placed as per best fit rather than by example from other 200tdi's but I'll bet this is probably where things usually go...note non-stock Summit Racing heater..these heater hoses to be replaced by stock 200tdi hoses when they show up from George at Rovers Down South...just gotta install throttle cable and lights and put the doors and hood back on...
George

[nikojo]

I was thinking of doing the same thing with the Summit heater. How did you "fix" it to the bulkhead??

[artm]

Yes, would like more info on the heater fit.

The motor though is exposed to the elements - water. Is this wise?

How is the air input connected? To the stock vent?

Now all you need is a plenum system with flaps controlled by electric motors and you're modern! No more cable crap!

[Gkase]

i took the bracket from the old RHD heater (it sits on top of the heater) and screwed it to the top of the summit...it just then screws into the existing nutserts on the bulkhead...you could make a bracket easily from some scrap sheet metal or angle iron scrap...on either side of the face just cut some triangular shape sheet metal to fit...Saturday I'll take some detail pix...as to motor being exposed, its sitting under the bonnet so its as dry as anything else under there...you can use the stock plenum or run a hose to the front of the fender or something...still got to work out the details...

[Rugbier]

I apologize, I forgot to take pics. Will do on Monday , but I can tell you, it looks almost identcal as pic numero 3 ( except I just installed a NAS style Snorkel and the hose is between the air filter and the vent side )

Gustavo



Here's some pix...items have been placed as per best fit rather than by example from other 200tdi's but I'll bet this is probably where things usually go...note non-stock Summit Racing heater..these heater hoses to be replaced by stock 200tdi hoses when they show up from George at Rovers Down South...just gotta install throttle cable and lights and put the doors and hood back on...
George

[Gkase]

Here's the heater mount and location...the simple "L" bracket is bolted into the existing nut-serts...and attached to the top of the Summit Racing heater core box...
takes up a lot less room than the stock heater...we'll see how good it works...
George

[Gkase]

OK...finally started up the 200tdi transplant....the honor of turning the key went to Glenn Harris of therovershopinc.com
Glenn has been the one who made all the hard lines, changed the timing belt, figured out the crazy wiring snafus and so on...just need doors and a throttle cable and I can drive her home (50 miles) to button her up...here's the link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lml-HWXumQE
how bout that!?!
George

[MUDSUX]

Nice work!. I love the sound of a diesel engine.

[Gkase]

Here's the NAS style LED lites finally mounted and working that I bought on the group buy Jim organized couple years back...
George

[Gkase]

OK...a milestone...the doors are back on, bonnet on, throttle cable on, new style td5 dash gauges and instrumentation all working, new blade style fuse box installed...all set to drive it to local muffler place for a straight thru exhaust on monday and then i can drive her home and use it while I take care of the interior fix up...started it up and drove it back and forth to test clutch function just maybe 4 feet due to temporary blockage by some shipping crates behind the truck...all works! And I must say, even without the muffler this 200Tdi is really quiet...many have said the 300tdi is quieter but this one is way quieter than my previous 300tdi was...
can't wait to get it back on the road next week!
George

[Gkase]

mechanicals, electrical, hydraulics...done.... But I drove it home 60 miles yesterday evening...nice bright Td5 dash llights (wish it wasn't a km per hour speedo) , LT77 is really low gearing, miss my R380 on the D90...wonder whats involved in a swap? Anyway...mount new tires, spats, cosmetics and cleaing up door rust now and we'll be done before the cold weather settles in...
thanks to all for their advice and counsel...couldn't have done it without you all and of course Glenn Harris at therovershopinc.com...
George

[evilfij]

Gearing is not that you have an LT77, it is that you have (I am 99% sure) a 1.667 high ratio LT230 t-case. tdis and NAS 110s have a 1.4 and NAS D90s have a 1.2.

Swap it for a 1.4 and it will be factory, swap it for a 1.2 and it will be like your D90 (but might be too tall of gearing for your needs with a 110 200Tdi).

Ron

[Gkase]

Ron! perfect....I will pursue a Tbox...awesome info...thanks!
George

[Red90]

Thoughts on heater output?? I have been considering this change myself but I wanted some first hand evidence that it puts out more air and heat than a properly running stock heater.

Do you know which LT77 you have? That can affect the choice of transfer case. If you don't know check the serial number. We need the first 2 numbers and the last letter.

[Gkase]

do you mean my vin serial or xfr serial? Ooops I guess you mean xfr case serial #

[evilfij]

LT77 is the trans. The only issue I am aware of is whether you have a 2in or 3in output shaft.

Pull the numbers off both of the LT77 trans and the LT230 t-case and you can see what you have and what is needed to change the t-case.

ashcroft transmission's website has pics of where to find the numbers.

Ron

[grnrvrs]

Thoughts on heater output?? I have been considering this change myself but I wanted some first hand evidence that it puts out more air and heat than a properly running stock heater.


Ditto. Inquiring minds want to know. :)

[nikojo]

I don't think George is giving us the heater output as he is in Chicago......warm and sunny every day!:)

[Gkase]

sorry...work has sucked away all my valuable productive time...will check it out this weekend...

[Gkase]

the number on my LT77 is 50A0120597D and the number off of the "new" intended transfer box is 28D422691E...
can I use this transfer box on this LT77 trans?




as for the currently mounted transsfer box, the only numbers I could find on it were FRC61C4 and FRC5415...there were no numbers in the two spots shown by Ashcroft site video...

thanks
George

[evilfij]

28D is a 1.222 high range out of a disco. It should fit fine. It might be a bit too much in the other direction as I noted above (factory 200tdi is a 1.4).

Your LT77 is a suffix D that appears to be original to the truck.

Ron

[Gkase]

Ron...so the input shaft issue is not a problem when using this transfer case with this trans?

Oh, and what might be the downside of using this box?
thanks very much for the info...
George

[evilfij]

I don't think it will be. Pretty sure that it is 3in outputs don't go into 2in inputs, not the reverse and I am not sure if a 28D actually has a 3in input anyway. You will want to pull the solinoid out of the T-case (the dome on top, remove it and cut off the pin sticking out or remove the solinoid entirely.

Downside is that it makes the gearing taller, so starting from first will be harder and you will have lower revs at speed.

Lots of people run 1.2 t-cases with tdis though.

[Red90]

Keep an ear out for gear noise on the gearbox. The D boxes have quite small layshaft bearings and the TDI will kill them eventually. They made quite a few improvements to the gearboxes before the 200TDI came out. It won't die all of a sudden and may last years, but you should hear well in advance as the bearing become loose.

[Gkase]

what was the solenoid for? not needed with an LT77 I take it...

[evilfij]

It is to prevent you from shifting the t-case when the auto trans is in drive.

[mikeslandrover]

[QUOTE=evilfij;231308
Lots of people run 1.2 t-cases with tdis though.[/QUOTE]

I'm running one in my 110 200tdi, they're fine for the most part, but heavy towing might be an issue.:)

[Gkase]

So...mounted the DAP sliders today...bulkhead bolts came out no problem (whew)...had to re-drill and enlarge holes in the slider mounts but no big deal...mounted the rear swing away tire mount and now rear door dont close...and the Summit Racing heater works fine ($130) but not noticibly better than properly adjusted stock heater and fan that I can tell so far...repainted with Alpine White...and of course mounted Tdi stickers!!! next spring will try to do something with interior...
kind of like the black and white color scheme...
George

[cgalpin]

Looks great!

[130Tdi]

George,
Looks great-glad to see you are back on the road. Also glad to see another set off lift up handle doors re-done and on the road again. Did you weld up the holes where the galv trim used to attach ?

[Gkase]

Doug...where was the trim you're refering to? on the doors? i didnt see any...

[130Tdi]

Doug...where was the trim you're refering to? on the doors? i didnt see any...

Must have been taken care of before they made it to you. There was a molding shaped the same as the tub cappings and galvanized to match that came forward on both doors.

[mikeslandrover]

Some had galv trim and some didn't:)
Very early 110's did I think.

[130Tdi]

Some had galv trim and some didn't:)
Very early 110's did I think.

the roll up window lift up handle doors were called the 84/85 "update" doors and I haven't seen a set without the trim-parts book show it. Push buttons started in 86 and didn't have any trim.