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mattwhite
May 24th, 2004, 01:08 PM
Of coarse as I'm currently in the middle of stripping my interior to "rhino line" it and put some brown bread in, anyway I realized that the rear bolts for the passenger seat track look to be inside the track tude and the body is blocking the opening to the tude.

So what's the trick to removing those rear bolts on the passenger seat track?

Thanks
Matt

Mike Hippert
May 24th, 2004, 01:20 PM
Matt, I left mine in and taped them off. I didn't what to mess with the how the seat sat. Is there nuts on the bottom or are they threaded into something like a Nutsert? And what do you mean by "brown bread"?

rover4x4
May 24th, 2004, 01:30 PM
okay kinda of a highjack but I have a SW and my passenger side front seat is kinda "wobbley" I have tightened all the bolts on the seat rails and it doesnt seem to have tightened up, any thoughts? sorry for the hijack............

javelinadave
May 24th, 2004, 01:35 PM
Same problem here. I grabbed the nutplate on the underside of the vehicle with vice grips and tightened away from the top. The seat rails are now going nowhere!. One would think that they would have come up with a stronger method of holding the seat in......

Mike Hippert
May 24th, 2004, 01:40 PM
Phillip, it's too clean, they are meant to work with a citrine amount of dirt inside the sliding parts. The fix for the problem:



step one remove top



B. remove all mud flaps and install lift and bigger tires



% go out wheeling the muddier the better



Back to reality How bad does it move? Can you move it with the seat bottom off and watch what’s happening? My seats hardly even move, the sliders are so caked with dirt (they came this way).

chrisvonc
May 24th, 2004, 02:11 PM
I dont know if I got what you were saying but when I removed our seats, each seat only have 4 big bolts holding the entire seat slide assembly on the top of the tubs. You get to the rear ones by pulling the seat all the way forward in the slides.Of coarse as I'm currently in the middle of stripping my interior to "rhino line" it and put some brown bread in, anyway I realized that the rear bolts for the passenger seat track look to be inside the track tude and the body is blocking the opening to the tude.

So what's the trick to removing those rear bolts on the passenger seat track?

Thanks
Matt

Mike Hippert
May 24th, 2004, 02:31 PM
Matt do you mean the front passenger seat or the rear? I'm a little confused. In my first post I was refurrung to the rear seat brackets. As far as the fronts go CVC is right on.

mattwhite
May 24th, 2004, 03:18 PM
Holy Crap, i think my mind is slipping, chris hit it right on I didn't even think to slide it forward.

The brown bread is like dynomat except cheaper, other than that it works and looks the same. I did the back and doors with it almost two years ago and it really cut the sound even with mtrs and a borla, and it's held up really well. So now I'm going to do the passenger area and the hood.

Anyways thanks for the help as always
Matt

P.S. the return of the spell checker might be nice

rover4x4
May 24th, 2004, 03:50 PM
yeah its noticable when I take the seat cushion out. last time I went out i got mud on the inside of my windshield. time to go find that "nutplate"

wicks
May 24th, 2004, 06:56 PM
I put some rubber pads under the seat rail at each corner, creating leverage against the bracket that the bolt goes through. Made em nice and tight.

OCD90
May 24th, 2004, 07:19 PM
For under the hood, I did the dynamat underhood version (sort of like a foamcenter 1/2" thick, with a shiny aluminum foil underside. It works great, and if you take the time to cut it right, it looks really clean and almost OEM-appearing.