1983 110 Rebuild

[cgalpin]

Just doing my part :finger

[MUDSUX]

Just doing my part :finger

Haha. How about helping me with this one?

http://d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=26317

[MUDSUX]

To my understanding, it is about the height and angle of the tub/t-pieces and how many washers you use on the bulkhead. I am going to try to tackle this tomorrow and my plan is to fit the roof too and try to get it all lined up.


So after spending a few hours lining up the tub, I think I figured out what the "lines" are used for:

If you look down the side of the truck from the back (like down a barrel of a gun) the lines should be straight and not bent out anywhere and the side of the tub should just touch the line. If you sight it and there is a "bend" in the line, then the tub is not squared to be bulkhead as it sits on the frame.

If you look at a sideview of the truck, the lines should also be straight as it runs along the "shoulder" of the tub and T posts. If there is a bend in the line, you may have to place shims under the tub to get it to line up. The angle of the front end of the tub is off compared to the rear end of the tub. I had to use 3 shims in the rear to level my tub.

[evilfij]

So after spending a few hours lining up the tub, I think I figured out what the "lines" are used for:

If you look down the side of the truck from the back (like down a barrel of a gun) the lines should be straight and not bent out anywhere and the side of the tub should just touch the line. If you sight it and there is a "bend" in the line, then the tub is not squared to be bulkhead as it sits on the frame.

If you look at a sideview of the truck, the lines should also be straight as it runs along the "shoulder" of the tub and T posts. If there is a bend in the line, you may have to place shims under the tub to get it to line up. The angle of the front end of the tub is off compared to the rear end of the tub. I had to use 3 shims in the rear to level my tub.

You said that much better than I did.

;)

Ron

[MUDSUX]

Did anyone noticed the black stuff on the underside of the tub? It's like black grease. I assume it's waxoyl but what I don't get is why is it so random where they spray it. Why not spray the whole tub? What are they protecting in those areas?

[cgalpin]

Probably overspray from when spraying the chassis (after assembly - maybe a dealer option?)

[MUDSUX]

Wow, I think you're right but what a crappy dealer option. They completely missed the rear crossmember. No oversprays at all in the rear. Maybe they wiped it clean. Either way I really hate this stuff.

[evilfij]

From the factory, the frame is sprayed, except for the rear crossmember.

[cgalpin]

Why not the rear crossmember (at least the inside)?

[evilfij]

Why not the rear crossmember (at least the inside)?

To go back to my old favorite:

"Land Rover is retarded."

[MUDSUX]

I was able to get to the fuel filler this weekend. I was concerned the cap from the older style filler would not fit in the side of the tub opening for the newer style diesel fillers. The hole size is different but the size of the inlet is big enough to reuse the locking cap.

I made a template from the old tub, then traced it on to the new tub. Used a reciprocating saw and a hand file to finish. Only took about 1 hour. Actually, it took me 2 weeks to commit to cutting up a brand new tub--that thing cost more than my RRC!

[MUDSUX]

Also got the propshafts cleaned up and back on the truck.

[evilfij]

Also got the propshafts cleaned up and back on the truck.

I hope you marked the orientation before separating them. ;)

[MUDSUX]

I hope you marked the orientation before separating them. ;)

Yup, I scored it with a punch.

[MUDSUX]

First time out of the garage since Sept 09.

[cgalpin]

Looking good. Seems like a good time to replace the u-joints though.

[MUDSUX]

Looking good. Seems like a good time to replace the u-joints though.

Yeah I checked them and they don't seem to be loose or have any play in them. Is there a better way to check them? They look old but after cleaning them, I believe they were redone recently.

[cgalpin]

It's just one of those things that are cheapand easy to rebuild and do wear. But if you think they are good, you should be fine. Worst case you'll be pulling a driveshaft or two sooner than you'd like :)

[MUDSUX]

It's just one of those things that are cheap and easy to rebuild and do wear. But if you think they are good, you should be fine. Worst case you'll be pulling a driveshaft or two sooner than you'd like :)

With my luck Charles, that will be during Gator football season!

[MUDSUX]

Trying to get 1 step closer to painting, I took the tub cappings off (I prefer galvanized cappings for that old-school feel, especially with recessed door handles) and noticed LR apparently paints after putting the cappings on. Also removed the door top to get at the cappings and prep them for painting. This is gonna be a very time consuming job. I do not look forward to paint prep!

[cgalpin]

Awesome. You'll be glad you painted under the cappings.

Yeah I have been doing some rehab on my series and the prep work is very time consuming. But again you'll be glad you did it!

[grnrvrs]

LR apparently paints after putting the cappings on. Curious. On my 83, it was painted under all of the capings.

[JimC]

Curious. On my 83, it was painted under all of the capings.

Thats because the 83 had galvy cappings that would have had to be installed after paint.

[MUDSUX]

Curious. On my 83, it was painted under all of the capings.

Yeah my 83 tub was also painted under the cappings. The white tub is from a 2008 with painted cappings. I wanted to use the galvanized capping from my 83, that's why I took everything apart. Well the cappings are not the same. The newer painted cappings are a little "longer" on the inside where it is riveted to the side of the tub (not length wise). I'll take a picture and show you after I get home from work.

[cgalpin]

It's a pity because the 83 capping has thicker material too.

[MUDSUX]

Yeah I really wanted to reuse the old ones. Here's a pic. I tried to line them up but it's just too far. Also removed the cappings off the split doors. Drilled through 3 rivets on top and just popped them off.

[Tyler Wirken]

That is odd with the cappings. I just bought some new style one piece cappings off of a 1997 110 I think. Not sure exactly and they line up perfectly with my 83 rear tub. Weird why yours do not.

This is funny as you are trying to make your tub older with the gas cap etc.. and I am trying to do make my old tub newer. I had to have a blank made that would fit into the filler neck area to accept the newer style fuel filler!

[evilfij]

Take off the little seal on the top of the tub and they will fit, or well, 84 cappings fit on a 1993 with that technique. Take the skin off the doors and have the frames dipped too.

[MUDSUX]

There are no seals on top of the tub. Do you mean on the side where the holes are?

Tyler, that's hilarious. I just love the way the older Land Rovers look. I could have gotten a newer spec 110 but I was purposely looking for an older one, like my Series III. I think the hardest part will be finding someone to reproduce the stripping on the side of the truck.

[evilfij]

The two NAS 110s had seals in there under the cappings which made the older style cappings not fit.

Ron

[MUDSUX]

Ron,

Did the bulkhead arrive in 1 piece?

[evilfij]

Yup, thanks again. I thought I PMed you that it came in.

Best,

Ron

[MUDSUX]

Yup, thanks again. I thought I PMed you that it came in.

Best,

Ron

Yeah you did, I didn't check. I am interested to see how you're gonna fix that. It's in really good shape, except of course the crushed top part.

[MUDSUX]

So things I learned this week: Listen to Jim C and Britpart really IS cheap.

I started preparing my doors for paint and was trying to plan ahead with refitting them with stainless hardware. I searched and found a thread by Jim C about using 5/16 SS bolts and nuts to make it easier to find parts later. I decided to use allen head sockets because I was tired of stripping the philips head. I also decided it was wiser to make my own measurements and not listen to what Jim said in his post. Well here's proof why I should have listened to a pro:

1. For some reason, the allen head socket was too wide and would not sit in the hinges. A few turns on my lathe and we are good.

2. I tried to pry out the square nuts on the retainers and they snapped like icicles. It was really weird. I barely put any pressure on it. Anyone know where I can get quality ones?

3. The last 2 pictures is for newbies like me who do not know how to properly measure fasteners. I made the mistake of measuring a countersunk bolt like a regular bolt. The bolts are not long enough and I cannot use them. Now I'm out twenty-something bucks and like an hour of lathe work. Idiot!

[JimC]

Ha ha - Some things you only really get from trial and error!

[MUDSUX]

Ha ha - Some things you only really get from trial and error!

And I distinctly remember thinking to myself:

"Why did Jim use such long bolts? It's gonna stick out too far. I better measure this myself. Maybe Jim's door is newer and different."

Yeah, right. Like Land Rover is going to make Jim's door any different than the millions they've made in the last twenty-something years. I'm such a tool!

So anyone know where I can find "quality" nut retainers for the door pillars?

[cabell]

Forrest, what did you use to paint / coat the fender wells?

[aosias]

And I distinctly remember thinking to myself:

"Why did Jim use such long bolts? It's gonna stick out too far. I better measure this myself. Maybe Jim's door is newer and different."

Yeah, right. Like Land Rover is going to make Jim's door any different than the millions they've made in the last twenty-something years. I'm such a tool!

So anyone know where I can find "quality" nut retainers for the door pillars?

I think the Nut Spiralok about halfway down the page is what you need http://www.rovahfarm.com/Defenderscrewsnutsbolts.htmNut Spiralok Ref: 302532 / Price $0.58 Application: Series (all) superceded from 79246

I purchased the bolts and square nuts from McMaster in bulk. I might even have an extra set. I don't have the j clips or whatever those things are-I just reused mine.
Nut Spiralok Ref: 302532 / Price $0.58 Application: Series (all) superceded from 79246

[cgalpin]

If you are buying SS 5/16th hardware for your door hinges drop me a PM and I'll send you as many square nuts (94785A419) as you need. I had to buy a box of 25 or something too

[MUDSUX]

Cabell- I painted the inside with POR15 for a smooth finish and the outside with Rustoleum bedliner for a textured finish.

Charles- thanks for the offer but I have some SS 5/16th square nuts already. Just can't find the nut retainers that won't snap when I pull the old square nut out.

Alexandra- isn't that spiralok for the floor?

[MUDSUX]

Next up is the door channel. I got the replacement piece from Atlantic British and they are the correct profile for the earlier 110 doors. I was able to peel back the door skin with a scraper to get to the bottom channel. Took me awhile to get at it because I was trying not to damage the door skin. After getting the bottom piece off, I gave up and took the whole skin off. This will make welding easier. Also traced out the door frame for reference later when I weld the new channel in.

The 5th picture shows the reinforcement tube used for the door hinges. Not sure how I'm going to work around that yet.

[evilfij]

On my series truck, I cut the reinforcing plate out, ground down the welds on the tubes, and drilled holes in the new channel and welded the old tubes in.

Ron

[MUDSUX]

More progress today. I REALLY do not like rebuilding doors.

[grnrvrs]

Looking good. Keep it up.

[cgalpin]

Yup, looking good. Slow but steady wins the race :)

[MUDSUX]

Yup, looking good. Slow but steady wins the race :)

Slow is an understatement! I have been putting this off for weeks but it's time to step up or just give in and buy a new one. It's not the cutting that I am worried about, it's the welding. I spent weeks planning how to cut out the rusted channels in order to give me enough material to weld on without burning a hole through the frame. I think an overlapping joint would be much stronger than a butt joint, correct?

[cgalpin]

Not necessarily stronger due to the box shape, but easier to weld. You could tack weld a backing plate inside first. But since it all gets covered you could also reinforce the inner edge on the outside even.

If the welding really gets you stumped, if you can tack weld it in shape you can probably get a pro to finish up the welding cheaply. It's all the prep and setting up time that will make it expensive.

[130Tdi]

Not necessarily stronger due to the box shape, but easier to weld. You could tack weld a backing plate inside first. But since it all gets covered you could also reinforce the inner edge on the outside even.

If the welding really gets you stumped, if you can tack weld it in shape you can probably get a pro to finish up the welding cheaply. It's all the prep and setting up time that will make it expensive.

Charles is too modest. He and I re-built a pair of 2nd row doors that needed more help than yours. We did them skin on. He's very good with a mig even mine.

[tomaco1]

I hope you marked the orientation before separating them. ;)

How big a deal is it if you didn't mark the drive-shafts before they were taken out?

[MUDSUX]

Man I hate welding. At least it will be covered by the door skin and inner panel. Also made good use of that spot welder I bought to build my AK.

[MUDSUX]

How big a deal is it if you didn't mark the drive-shafts before they were taken out?

I have no idea.

[cgalpin]

Nicely done. It all gets covered, so as long as it's string and you get rid of the rust, it's all good!

[aosias]

Did you give up on her? Just curious about any updates.

[MUDSUX]

Did you give up on her? Just curious about any updates.

Hey Alex. No not yet! I got kind of side tracked. New baby girl on Valentine's day! Akaele Skye.

The Rover is ready for paint. I had a guy come look at it and gave me a quote a few months ago. I've been busy stripping it, like the doors, hinges, light bezels, etc to make it easier for him. Now he's MIA and I think I might have to do this myself. Just trying to find some garage time that's all. Will update soon.

[bjf]

How is your range rover?

[MUDSUX]

How is your range rover?

Daily driver. Sooner or later I'm going to redo all the bushings and get an OME 2" lift put it. The britpart on there now is pretty rough. Got a 14CUX ECU in there now and noticed a 2-3 mpg increase. May have been the Seafoam I used, who knows. Either way I love my RRC.

[bjf]

One of the nicest ones I have seen.

[MUDSUX]

One of the nicest ones I have seen.

Thanks. She's got some faults, looks better in pics, just like Playboy playmates.

[aosias]

Thanks. She's got some faults, looks better in pics, just like Playboy playmates.

Only funny because it's true

[323jamie]

engine replaacement?

[rijosho]

Can we get a shot of how Emma sits today?

[MUDSUX]

Hey Josh,

Funny you should ask. I just dropped $600 yesterday on paint supplies. I know it's been a long time since I updated this build but should have some pics up soon. I am so close to finishing I can taste the exhaust!

@Jamie no engine replacement. I have owned this truck since 2009 and have driven her less than 100 miles! I am going to run her into the ground and when the engine dies I will be looking at diesel options.

[MUDSUX]

Hey Josh,

This is how she sits as of yesterday. I have a lot more work to do. Trying to coordinate with Stephen to see if I can get a roll cage for her. If I do, it would be better to cut and fit the cage before final painting.

[MUDSUX]

I just spent months repairing my front doors, trying to get rid of rust and salvaging what I can to see it all come crashing down on my garage floor. I was hanging them for POR15 treatment, decided it was a good idea to take the kids to Epcot for a beer and dinner and didn't realized I had one end hanging off the garage door. As soon as I closed the garage it all came crashing down. Both doors are now dented in the corner. What a waste of time! :angry

[grnrvrs]

Ouch, sorry man. On the positive side, some new skins will save some prep work on the old paint.

[MUDSUX]

Ouch, sorry man. On the positive side, some new skins will save some prep work on the old paint.

Thanks Paul. One side is salvageable with new skin, the other will have to be redone with new channels.

[grnrvrs]

Is the channel itself tweaked, or just the lip? Give us a pic of the worst damage.

[MUDSUX]

Here you go Paul. First four is of the badly damaged door. The last 4 is the other door that can be fixed easily.

[MUDSUX]

I am so over it I just picked these up from Stephen's:

[MUDSUX]

By the way those doors are totally Ron-good. I miss the Parts Ninja.

[grnrvrs]

I am so over it I just picked these up from Stephen's:

Looks like a good choice. From those door latches/handles, it looks like you're going for the ST style. If so, what's the plan for the second row door trims?

[MUDSUX]

Looks like a good choice. From those door latches/handles, it looks like you're going for the ST style. If so, what's the plan for the second row door trims?

It seems I have the odd door/latches/striker plate of the transitional 83/84 110's according to your other post. I personally do not like all the linkages they used to place the inner handle farther forward. I am trying to convert them all back to the earlier Series III lift up handles on the inside.

[grnrvrs]

I've done the same. The only problem is the interior door trim for the second row. There are multiple good options for door trims for the front (RN, Iron Goat, LaSalle, Exmoor...), but for the second row you're limited to series style trim from Exmoor or Lasalle or something custom or convincing ECR to sell their BR second row trims. IMO, the ECR trims would be the nicest, but I've been unable to convince mike to part with a set. While I like the Lasalle headliners, their door trims are less compelling. If you come up with a solution, let me know.

[MUDSUX]

Paul I am just going to run it bare like in my series. Less chance for trapping moisture. I may cut up some checker plating like I did for my Fj40.

Can you share the part number you used for your door handle conversion? Which striker plate did you use?

[grnrvrs]

For the second row I'm using FQB500130 with spacer MUC7809. On the front and rear doors, I used the type of striker you pictured in the other post.

If you are forgoing door trims, Have you thought about getting the inside of the skin sprayed with linex or rhino liner?

[MUDSUX]

Hey Paul,

Thanks for the part number but why are you using 2 different strikers? Are your door handles not the same front and rear? I have that striker already on my new tub but thought that was for the newer defender door latch only. Maybe I am in luck and can reuse it.

Rhino Liner? I thought only Horsey did that :) I am trying to stay away from that, makes the truck look too modern. I like faded and scratched up paint.

[grnrvrs]

:)

I like doors that are less likely to dent, resonate, close with a satisfying thunk.

Front doors are done, still working on the second row, waiting on a few bits to button them up.

[MUDSUX]

:)

I like doors that are less likely to dent, resonate, close with a satisfying thunk.


Are you saying the different strikers do this? Why not use the same for front and rear?

[grnrvrs]

No, it was a reference to some sort of liner on the inside of the skins.

The hole spacing for the strikers is different front to back on my t-posts. Why you may ask, I don't know. Ask Nigel.

[MUDSUX]

Can we get a shot of how Emma sits today?

Just changed her name to Stella in tribute to how many Stella's I have drank during this rebuild :grin

I just realized all my trucks end with an A :rolleyes

[belgian]

Just changed her name to Stella in tribute to how many Stella's I have drank during this rebuild :grin

I just realized all my trucks end with an A :rolleyes

great choice of beer haha

[evilfij]

By the way those doors are totally Ron-good. I miss the Parts Ninja.

I am still here. Funny thing was I was looking at them thinking I could just bang those straight!

[MUDSUX]

I am still here. Funny thing was I was looking at them thinking I could just bang those straight!

They can totally be banged out straight Ron. Just too damn fed up with them at this moment to be spending anymore time on them.

[MUDSUX]

The work never ends! Just when I thought I was going to lay down the epoxy primer this weekend, ended up taking the hood apart to fix more rust problems hidden underneath the reinforcement frame. Also had to spot weld a few rivnuts that was loose/spinning in its hole.

My little helper, Halaela. She doesn't even know she is helping with her future truck. I turn my back for a few minutes and my welding helmet is "lightly powdered"

[grnrvrs]

What were the rivets for? My 83 hood didn't have any...?

Great helper. My helpers wear the same boots!

[airbornrover]

There are rivnuts for the safety hook(?) that bolts to the hood frame.

[MUDSUX]

What were the rivets for? My 83 hood didn't have any...?


They had M6 bolts in them with little rubber hats over them. They were used to stabilize the hood like on my RRC.

[MUDSUX]

Finally got to the epoxy primer. Looks like I have to get more primer. One quart only got me this far. Don't know why my paint guy only suggested 1 quart for the whole truck.

[MUDSUX]

This is for Alexandra. Sorry I tried to zip it and sent it to you but it got bounced back. Let me know if you have any specific shots you want. It was not that hard to remove the seat box. Hardest part for me was the hand brake cable.

[grnrvrs]

Finally got to the epoxy primer. Looks like I have to get more primer. One quart only got me this far. Don't know why my paint guy only suggested 1 quart for the whole truck.

I used the better part of a gallon for the primer. Inside and out, the entire enchilada.

[aosias]

Thanks! Let me send you mine...

[MUDSUX]

Thanks! Let me send you mine...

Only if it's in better shape than mine :)

[MUDSUX]

I am soooo over painting. This is round 2 of epoxy primer and I am not even to the main body of the truck. Painting every little part off the truck is so time consuming! Next time I do this I'm leaving everything on the truck!

By the way, the green masking tape is supposed to be better than the blue, who knew?

[MUDSUX]

Here I am putting the door skin back on the rebuilt frame. Used a MAPP torch to "re-anneal" the aluminum so it doesn't crack when I rebend it back over the frame.

[sonoronos]

love the primer job...looks like it's going to be bulletproof!

[MUDSUX]

love the primer job...looks like it's going to be bulletproof!

Thanks for all your advice about prep and paint Ed. It was all very confusing at first but your explanation really helped. I don't see how anyone can't paint their truck in a few days. It is taking me forever just to lay down the epoxy primer.

[130Tdi]

this picture is a perfect example of why we get rust and galvanic bubbles in doors. Absolutely nothing between the alum skin and steel frame. Self etching primer and then epoxy will go a long way-shame Rover never went to the trouble.

[MUDSUX]

this picture is a perfect example of why we get rust and galvanic bubbles in doors. Absolutely nothing between the alum skin and steel frame. Self etching primer and then epoxy will go a long way-shame Rover never went to the trouble.


Yeah I made sure I sprayed the inside of the skin with epoxy primer before putting it back on. I was going to paint with the final color first before putting it back on but I will end up cracking the paint, bending it around the frame, if I did it that way.

[texrover]

Yeah I made sure I sprayed the inside of the skin with epoxy primer before putting it back on. I was going to paint with the final color first before putting it back on but I will end up cracking the paint, bending it around the frame, if I did it that way.

I may be getting threads mixed, but are you welding or using an adhesive to marry door skin and frame?

[MUDSUX]

I may be getting threads mixed, but are you welding or using an adhesive to marry door skin and frame?


Right now it is just bent over the frame. I was contemplating which will make it easer to replace later. Originally it was just glued. I can't weld aluminum, well I can't weld period :)

[texrover]

Right now it is just bent over the frame. I was contemplating which will make it easer to replace later. Originally it was just glued. I can't weld aluminum, well I can't weld period :)


Well you're going to lead me; I'm assuming I can at least manage glue...:)

But to that point, assume the adhesive requires you to go back and remove the epoxy/primer from both surfaces?

[MUDSUX]

.....assume the adhesive requires you to go back and remove the epoxy/primer from both surfaces?


Damn the epoxy primer, I'm just going to glue them and see what happens. Land Rover made it last almost 30 years like that and if it falls off I'm just going to get new skin for it.

[JBinAlabama]

So the mapp torch heats the skin and then you bend it while hot to prevent cracking?
I'm giving a couple of doors a time-out for cracking as I removed the skin (yes, being very slow and careful)
Great job by the way!

[MUDSUX]

So the mapp torch heats the skin and then you bend it while hot to prevent cracking?
I'm giving a couple of doors a time-out for cracking as I removed the skin (yes, being very slow and careful)
Great job by the way!

No I just heated all around and let it cool before re-bending it. The aluminum goes through a "work hardening or cold working" process when it is bent. I am no expert but I do remember this analogy from my thermodynamics class:

Take a paper clip and repeatedly bend it at the same place. After a few bends the paperclip will break. The bending process changes the crystalization of the alloy, it gets harder and harder with each bend, and eventually gets brittle and break. By heating the alloy, you are "re-annealing" the alloy and relieving internal stress. How hot do you heat it? I read somewhere just enough to boil water off but I am not sure. I just guesstimate and it was fine. Good luck

[JBinAlabama]

Thanks!
I'll give that a try!

[cgalpin]

I don't have any experience with this myself, but I saw a video where the guy blackened the piece with carbon from an oxy-acetaline torch, then heated it up until the carbon burnt off and that was the indicator it was the right heat and annealed.

[down_shift]

I don't have any experience with this myself, but I saw a video where the guy blackened the piece with carbon from an oxy-acetaline torch, then heated it up until the carbon burnt off and that was the indicator it was the right heat and annealed.

2x. Search YouTube for a guy working a HUGE dent out of the left rear quarter on a 427 Shelby Cobra. The clip is about 9 minute long and a much watch for working on aluminum. It is work of art.

[MUDSUX]

Finally got a weekend to myself and started painting. After all the fear and worrying, spraying the paint was not really that difficult. It really gave me a sense of accomplishment, seeing it all come together with one unified color instead of the Frankenstein five that was on there before. Now I can honestly say I did everything myself with this restoration (I was going to have someone else paint it). Next is the actual truck and tub. Also reassembling the bonnet using 5mm SS socket head screws instead of rivets. By the way, the hinges were a bitch to paint. I am going to kick myself later for not using new hinges:

[evilfij]

Nice work!

[airbornrover]

Nice paint job.

[JohnsD90]

Paint looks great! It's awesome that you are doing the entire rebuild yourself, the paint work is something i don't usually touch either on my cars. You doing this did though spark my interest of spraying my own cars if the time ever arises. Do you have a round about number on how much the paint costed to buy it?

[MUDSUX]

Paint looks great! It's awesome that you are doing the entire rebuild yourself, the paint work is something i don't usually touch either on my cars. You doing this did though spark my interest of spraying my own cars if the time ever arises. Do you have a round about number on how much the paint costed to buy it?

Yeah I was really hesitant with the whole painting thing. I have never painted before. A lot of people here gave me really sound advice though. The actual spraying the paint part is really fun. The prep beforehand is tedious. I still have the tub and the rest of the truck to paint but I will gather my receipts tonight and give you an idea of cost.

[JohnsD90]

Yeah I was really hesitant with the whole painting thing. I have never painted before. A lot of people here gave me really sound advice though. The actual spraying the paint part is really fun. The prep beforehand is tedious. I still have the tub and the rest of the truck to paint but I will gather my receipts tonight and give you an idea of cost.

Ok cool thanks, i have access to all the tools to spray, and a shop to do it in, so if i end up picking up an old series 3, i might contemplate taking it apart and painting it, if i could do it all myself. Also, i can't wait to see this truck when it is done!

[MUDSUX]

PPG Concept Paint:

PPG DCC Trident Green $100.75/quart x 3 quarts = $302.25
DCX61 Hardener 39.60/8oz x 3 = 118.80
DT895 Reducer 22.35/quart x 3 = 67.05
DP50LF Epoxy Primer 55.55/quart x 3 = 166.65
DP402LF Primer Catalyst 31.95/pint x 2 = 63.90
DX330 wax/grease remover 42.30/gallon x 1 = 42.30
---------

Total $760.95 (so far)

[MUDSUX]

So after a lot of back and forth and back and forth, I decided to bite the bullet and take everything off the truck, AGAIN, so I can properly paint all the panels and bulkhead. Even though no one can see it, just knowing I left it unpainted just kills me. I have worked this hard, might as well do it right. So off goes the 2 wing top and I also removed all the dash to get at the back of the bulkhead.

My little helper being anything but helpful.

[airbornrover]

One step closer. Got all the hard stuff done.

[Skeena river rover]

MAn very nice built! and great pics and info on your built. Keep on the good work!

[grnrvrs]

Good call. If you're in this deep, doing it right is the way to go.

What's your plan for interior trim for the split doors?

[broadstone]

I love the fact you get your daughter involved, that picture is great., my 3 year old loves to help. Great job.

[evilfij]

The pic with your daughter is how I feel when working on them sometimes. LOL

[MUDSUX]

Good call. If you're in this deep, doing it right is the way to go.

What's your plan for interior trim for the split doors?

No plans for the door trim. I will remove the trim on there now and run it bare like my Series III.

------ Follow up post added May 22nd, 2012 11:31 AM ------

I love the fact you get your daughter involved, that picture is great., my 3 year old loves to help. Great job.

She loves being in the garage, constantly trying to get in my toolbox and generally causing mayhem. I wanted to make sure I have some pics of her helping me build her 110 for when she gets older.

------ Follow up post added May 22nd, 2012 11:32 AM ------

The pic with your daughter is how I feel when working on them sometimes. LOL


:grin