oil change/oil cooler line change

[sirjond]

Forgive me if this has been answered before, but I have searched the forum to no avail.

I am going to be changing my oil cooler lines, but want to also change the oil/oil filter when I do it. My question, is there a special procedure I should follow or is what I list below the way to go (oil change instructions courtesy of "Ron" from another thread - thanks Ron)?

1. Drain oil and refit drain plug
2. Remove filter
3. Remove oil cooler lines/sandwich plate
4. Install new oil cooler lines/sandwich plate
5. Put in 1 gallon of oil
6. Fill new filter with oil and install
7. Top up with total oil in at 6 quarts (pull dipstick out 2in or so to allow oil to enter engine properly)
8. Start engine
9. Make sure oil light goes out
10. Run for 1-2min
11. Check oil level and top up additional as needed (usually takes between 6.5 and 7 quarts in total)

[Hans]

I would change the order a little bit, just to help make sure you don't lose the prime in the pump at all.
You basically never want a situation where you have both no filter and no oil in the pan at the same time.

This goes for any oil change, not just when you're swapping the cooler lines. It's all part of the quirks of having an external style oil pump instead of an in-sump pump like most other engines have. The system is not self-priming, and it's not a fun process to manually prime it.

Just out of curiosity, why pull the dipstick out at all? There's more than enough ventilation internally that you're not dealing with any kind of pressure blockage while you have the fill cap off. The open valley design, and the size of the drain passages in the heads gives a huge amout of flow potential for both the oil going down and the air coming up.

1. Drain oil and refit drain plug
2. Put in 1 gallon of oil
3. Remove filter
4. Remove oil cooler lines/sandwich plate
5. Install new oil cooler lines/sandwich plate
6. Fill new filter with oil and install
7. Top up with total oil in at 6 quarts (pull dipstick out 2in or so to allow oil to enter engine properly)
8. Start engine
9. Make sure oil light goes out
10. Run for 1-2min
11. Check oil level and top up additional as needed (usually takes between 6.5 and 7 quarts in total)

[evilfij]

I have found pulling the dipstick makes the oil go down much quicker. I pull it out as force of habit whenever I top or or anything. Since I use gallon or 5 quart jugs, this is important to me. Hans procedure for the oil cooler lines should work fine.

[sirjond]

Thanks for responding guys....I really appreciate it!

Hans, I cannot take credit for oil change instructions, those came from Ron in a previous post. I simply added the oil cooler lines (#4 and 5) where I thought appropriate.

Thanks again!

[DonFromWhitby]

Thanks for responding guys....I really appreciate it!

Hans, I cannot take credit for oil change instructions, those came from Ron in a previous post. I simply added the oil cooler lines (#4 and 5) where I thought appropriate.

Thanks again!I am about to do this same fix (replace the oil cooler lines) What is the sandwich plate? Does it need replacing, or is it reusable?

[sirjond]

Here is some helpful info, Don
http://www.eastcoastrover.com/option2.html

You can reuse your existing sandwich plate. But, the Mocal plate makes for a cleaner/easier install.

[Hans]

For info on the sandwich plate, also see link #1 in my signature.

-hans

[Rocketman]

Also, if you change the sandwich plate, you can get one that is thermostatically controlled (i.e., it doesn't open up until the temperature rises) When the oil is cold, this allows for faster rise of oil pressure on start-up. Also, you will definitely know the thread side, without a trial and error approach. All reasons for splitting with about another $100 bucks to make the job easier and better.

[Hans]

Also, if you change the sandwich plate, you can get one that is thermostatically controlled (i.e., it doesn't open up until the temperature rises) When the oil is cold, this allows for faster rise of oil pressure on start-up. Also, you will definitely know the thread side, without a trial and error approach. All reasons for splitting with about another $100 bucks to make the job easier and better.

Mocal part # SP1T

I swear by it.