Goat surgery

[KevinNY]

It's time to stop putting off the inevitable and repair my bulkhead this winter. I have some galvanizing to do, bumper and sliders, some brake lines to replace, a timing belt to change, relocate my ARB compressor and fix the oil spewing issue, run relays for my headlights and a paintjob from yellow to NATO Light Stone. Basically going through the truck to have it ready for the next 10 years of use. Started on the sliders today and amazingly after 12 winters in the NE, got the passenger side off pretty quickly, thank God ECR used plenty of anti-seize on that bulkhead bolt and good quality fasterners. My bulkhead is worse than I thought. I'll post as I get through it, as much for my own entertainment as anyone elses.

[KevinNY]

Step 1

Remove the winch and strip the bumper and sliders to get sandblasted and then off to the galvanizer.

[KKilo23]

Kevin if you ever need a hand with anything let me know...

btw, where are bringing your stuff for sand blasting and galvanzing? I have a bunch of stuff to get done soon as well..

[KevinNY]

I'll be getting the galvi done at Hubbell Galvanizing. They are out near Utica and do good work. I will be getting my stuff galvied and powdercoated black. I'll barely be making the minimun so you can throw your stuff in with mine, it just has to be paint free, the pickling takes care of any surface rust. PM me, I'll be making the trip soon. I'm going to see if a kid in my neighboorhood can do the sandblasting, he's a hot rodder and has a cabinet.

[cgalpin]

Keep the yellow man!

So does powercoat stick to galvy ok? I thought at least for paint you have to re-sandbalst them to get the paint to stick after galvanizing.

I'm going to see if a kid in my neighboorhood can do the sandblasting, he's a hot rodder and has a cabinet.
Damn I need one of these!

[KevinNY]

They air dry the galvy and then hand sand it before doing the PC. I had a Rockware bumper done before by them and it was the best powdercoat I have ever seen, thick and plasticky, not thin and brittle like most.

[KKilo23]

They air dry the galvy and then hand sand it before doing the PC. I had a Rockware bumper done before by them and it was the best powdercoat I have ever seen, thick and plasticky, not thin and brittle like most.Is this all done at Hubbell?

[nikojo]

They air dry the galvy and then hand sand it before doing the PC. I had a Rockware bumper done before by them and it was the best powdercoat I have ever seen, thick and plasticky, not thin and brittle like most.
You may want to get it zinc dipped instead of galvanized. I was under impression the adhesion is much better for powdercoat with zinc versus galvanized. I just went through something similar.

[KevinNY]

You may want to get it zinc dipped instead of galvanized. I was under impression the adhesion is much better for powdercoat with zinc versus galvanized. I just went through something similar.
Yes all done at once at hubbbell. Zinc dipping IS galvanizing. aDrunk right now.

[nikojo]

That's true but there are various forms of it. Most of the exposed pieces I have have been galvanized but the pieces that were powder coated were galvanized in a different way which they referred to as "zinc priming". Not pretending to know everything about it except to say there are various forms of galvanizing and some of them are not the best for powder coating.

Some of it has to do with "when" the powder coating is done, ie within 48 hours. And whether or not the hot-dip is quenched (don't want to do that).

Sounds like you've already figured it out but would love to hear more about it from others who know about this stuff.

[evilfij]

Rover gods don't like it when you paint (or powdercoat) their chrome. Why not dip the bulkhead too and leave it all galvy. It would look nice with the light tan color.

[130Tdi]

Rover gods don't like it when you paint (or powdercoat) their chrome. Why not dip the bulkhead too and leave it all galvy. It would look nice with the light tan color.Thats sick, you and I are starting to think alike.

[KevinNY]

Here is a link to the process.

http://whyrust.com/specifications/powdercoat.php

Follow-up Post:

Rover gods don't like it when you paint (or powdercoat) their chrome. Why not dip the bulkhead too and leave it all galvy. It would look nice with the light tan color.I have already had the rear corner protectors done black and I will be leaving the wheels and and hardtop black, so I am sticking with the theme. Black and Tan, Haha. I think I will PC the wing top 5 bar too.

[bjf]

that is one good looking truck

[KevinNY]

Got a little work done today, 20 minutes here and there and a couple of weekends and it should move right along. Sort of looks like a girl without her makeup right now.

[KevinNY]

Got the seatbox out and found that a previous owner had bulkhead repairs done that involved welding the lower door frame piece to the bulkhead, so now I am search of a pair of lower door frames.

[don]

Such a nice looking a unique looking rig.

Love the BackCountry.com Goat sticker on the wing - it's a cool logo and certainly works with your truck.

Those are the SSR 285/85's mounted on there right? You were saying how you like them on another thread. They look like a really good size - not too big but some sizable tread.

Best of luck with the project :thumbs:

[KevinNY]

Yes Don, 285/75-16 SSRs. Amazing how long it took to get the seatbox and seatbelt anchors out vs. how quickly it will go back in with all new fasterners.

[don]

Yes Don, 285/75-16 SSRs. Amazing how long it took to get the seatbox and seatbelt anchors out vs. how quickly it will go back in with all new fasterners.
Thanks Kevin - those rubgbers are on my list.

Sounds like my rear bumper/cross member re-do. That bear took forever to get off with the rusty & muddy hardware but took no time to get back in. I hope you weren't throwing wrenches and swearing as much as I was :D

[KevinNY]

Air tools and Kroil help a lot.

[KevinNY]

Slow progress.

[pmd]

Slow progress.
Will it be done in time for the Winter Romp?

[KevinNY]

Realistically, no. I need to get the bulkhead up to Matt Browne and then get it back and do all of the paint prep and painting of the whole truck and do not want to do a rush job on it. I've wheeled and partied my ass off enough at past Romps to miss a year. I say that now but I am sure I will miss being there and seeing everyone. I do have a friend coming in from South Africa about that time too though.

Follow-up Post:

Changed my mind again on the color, NATO Light Stone may be too light. I think it is going to be a proper Land Rover coloUr, Sand. Sample photo attached.

[evilfij]

Sand is my favorite series color. We voted for it for build a rover, but Tom B. overruled us some how and they painted it green.

[pmd]

Sand looks nice - here's another sample
edit - color in this picture is off a bit..

[KevinNY]

Bobeck will be happier with me but not fully satisfied until I paint the hardtop to match with a limestone roof. (I'm keeping it black):tounge

[don]

Kevin - do you have any pages on the coiler conversion? I just sent a free/ratty Series III up to my dad and it might need a frame (certainly a suspension redo) and thought maybe a coiler conversion would be cheaper/easier.

I like the tan too. Looks good on the series in the pics and I've love the color on my mtn bikes Black and tan always is a nice combo - it liquid form too :D

[KevinNY]

Don,

ECR actually did it back in 1996 (2 owners ago)so it is a Designa chassis or similiar. Pretty damn straightforward conversion especially with all of the old disco axle assemblies floating around these days but nobody imports the chassis anymore. I don't even know if anyone in the UK is still making them. Making one from a good series frame is not super complicated as many have done that too. Matt Browne did the PS conversion which involved cutting out the original front crossmember and welding in a new one which he made.

[michaels]

don,

you could buy some coil spring buckets from any of the non-vehicle specific aftermarket supplies and simply weld them on after getting rid of the leaf spring mounts. it wouldn't be too hard.

or if you're handy, make them yourself. looking at the photo, it'd take a couple hours to make each corner and weld it all on.

the radius/trailing arm mounts are pretty straight forward as well. take measurements from a disco or rangie if you can and line up the axles assemblies.

it shouldn't be too hard.

progress looks good, kevin.

[moose]

Changed my mind again on the color, NATO Light Stone may be too light. I think it is going to be a proper Land Rover coloUr, Sand. Sample photo attached.That is one of the nicest Series 3's I have seen, and I love the sand colour... but of course I would say that, that is my 88 in the picture. :cool:

Brett

[KevinNY]

Brett was who turned me on to the color after seeing his truck pictured on the RN forum. He was also kind enough to provide me with color codes and the actual pigment mix if I wanted to have a quart sample made up.

[KevinNY]

The pace should pick up a bit now.

[KKilo23]

The pace should pick up a bit now.


Where are you getting your paint work done at?

[KevinNY]

Bob Courtneys barn.
Otherwise known as www.redbarnengineering.com (http://www.redbarnengineering.com)

[KKilo23]

Bob Courtneys barn.
Otherwise known as www.redbarnengineering.com (http://www.redbarnengineering.com)

Nice.

[KevinNY]

Easy access to the timing belt now.

[KevinNY]

Fianlly got some time today to work on it, bulkhead should come off tomorrow. Just need to remove steering and brake tower and pull a coupe of last wires and speedo and throtle cables.

[KevinNY]

Pulled the bulkhead tonight. Now to organize all the bits, order new parts for the reassembly, do the timing belt and glow plugs and start prepping panels for paint.

[KevinNY]

Off to Overland Engineering in the morning.

[cgalpin]

So this is the reason for the madness! How about some close ups showing the repairs needed?

[KevinNY]

Well one of the door posts collapsed when I was loading it into the Land Cruiser if that gives you a hint. Previous owner didn't know how to use a hose apparently. The bottom of the door posts and the outer side of the toe boxes are totally rotten, exactly what happens when you leave them packed with wet mud.

[junkyddog11]

I'll take some pictures on Monday

[KevinNY]

Bulkhead is at Matt's for some love, meanwhile I dropped the fuel tank today. You can see how it is basically an ordinary series tank with the inside edge chopped off to clear the rear link mount. It is going to a local radiator guy who will boil it out and beadblast it for me. Then is getting internally sealed with a kit from KBS coatings and painted with Eastwood chassis black before going back in.

[sn1987]

i have nothing to say except that Kevin's yellow series is freaking awesome :-O

[evilfij]

Well one of the door posts collapsed when I was loading it into the Land Cruiser if that gives you a hint. Previous owner didn't know how to use a hose apparently. The bottom of the door posts and the outer side of the toe boxes are totally rotten, exactly what happens when you leave them packed with wet mud.

This is why I don't understand why people don't galvanize the bulkheads. I don't care how much paint or sealer you put on it, galvanizing is 10x better at fending off rust. Dip it and forget it.

[LFORGUE8]

This is why I don't understand why people don't galvanize the bulkheads. I don't care how much paint or sealer you put on it, galvanizing is 10x better at fending off rust. Dip it and forget it.
was that bulk head prepared by ECR to begin with.....with their dunk tanks? i have to agree galvy should be the way to go when i ever get to mine on my series....

[KevinNY]

The truck was done in '96 by ECR and had bulkhead repairs done since then by a second owner. They may have not done the dunk primer back that far.

[TDI Guy]

Looks Good Kevin... At this point, just strip it down and redip the frame to look all shiny again. :eek: I always end up over doing everything... lol

[evilfij]

Looks Good Kevin... At this point, just strip it down and redip the frame to look all shiny again. :eek: I always end up over doing everything... lol


That would be merely cosmetic.

[TDI Guy]

I know Ron... I have problems... Im so shallow. I should consider more that just looks...lol

[KevinNY]

Rockware bumper stripped and vent holes drilled for the galvanizer. I use 7, 3/4" holes across the bottom of the blade with the corner ones as close to the ends as possible. The sliders were sandblasted by a neighbor who has a booth.

[junkyddog11]

This is why I don't understand why people don't galvanize the bulkheads. I don't care how much paint or sealer you put on it, galvanizing is 10x better at fending off rust. Dip it and forget it.

Galvanizing is not the cure all for frames or bulkheads. Galvy will not get into the gaps between overlapping layers of steel if they are smaller than 3/32 ". I have galvy frames show up at the shop with rust drooling out of cavities and areas in the rear crossmember. I'm not saying don't do it as I have done many at this point, and some of the trucks I build seem to have more galvy than paint. The point is that most of the rust issues can be solved by keeping internal cavities as clean as possible and by treating with a good rust preventative coating such as Waxoyl cavity wax. You certainly cannot "dip it and forget it.

[evilfij]

"I have galvy frames show up at the shop with rust drooling out of cavities and areas in the rear crossmember."

I don't doubt you because I have seen runs of rust on galvy stuff a but everytime I have seen it, it is merely cosmetic and also the zinc acts as an annode or cathode (I forget which) and corrodes before the steel for the most part. Also, there are not a lot of areas where this can occur (the two stacked pieces of steel at the bottom of the cross member in the rear comes to mind). Now as far as dip it and forget it, I disagree, because as a practical matter you really can short of parking in the ocean or maybe using it as a working vehicle as a salter and plow. I have a galvanized series rear cross member that was on a truck in buffalo for >15 years and it is perfect other than being a dull grey color and a couple specs of rust where stones chipped the galvanizing off. I also have doors and cappings off of a 1951 SI that have no corrosion (just very, very dull grey) but the bulkhead itself is lace. I had a galvanized series bumper I left outside and it got burried for a few years and, you know what, no rust.

So until someone shows me a picture of a galvanized frame that has structural rust or a bulkhead someone properly prepped and dipped that is rusted out in any meaningful way, I stand by my Rover Chrome and will be dipping it and forgetting it ;)

[oilburner]

Yeaaahhh... But no.

I have a bulkhead that has seen 5 years of ontario winters and it is starting to rust through in places. Was done by Argo Coatings in Nova Scotia. I sandblasted it and prepped it. It is coming through at the top near the hinge where there are 5 thicknesses of metal. I can take pics but it's pinholes right now. I am junking it so I can cut it apart to investigate. This is on a salt-covered worked hard and put away wet beater that has plowed snow so it is probably a worst case scenario.





"I have galvy frames show up at the shop with rust drooling out of cavities and areas in the rear crossmember."

I don't doubt you because I have seen runs of rust on galvy stuff a but everytime I have seen it, it is merely cosmetic and also the zinc acts as an annode or cathode (I forget which) and corrodes before the steel for the most part. Also, there are not a lot of areas where this can occur (the two stacked pieces of steel at the bottom of the cross member in the rear comes to mind). Now as far as dip it and forget it, I disagree, because as a practical matter you really can short of parking in the ocean or maybe using it as a working vehicle as a salter and plow. I have a galvanized series rear cross member that was on a truck in buffalo for >15 years and it is perfect other than being a dull grey color and a couple specs of rust where stones chipped the galvanizing off. I also have doors and cappings off of a 1951 SI that have no corrosion (just very, very dull grey) but the bulkhead itself is lace. I had a galvanized series bumper I left outside and it got burried for a few years and, you know what, no rust.

So until someone shows me a picture of a galvanized frame that has structural rust or a bulkhead someone properly prepped and dipped that is rusted out in any meaningful way, I stand by my Rover Chrome and will be dipping it and forgetting it ;)

[evilfij]

JL, I would like to see pictures.

Was it new when it was blasted and dipped? I can certainly see how a bulkhead that has interior rust (which you can't get at with a blaster) could rust away inside out after being dipped.

Ron

PS BTW if you are junking it and it is a defender/90/100 bulkhead, why don't you not do that and sell it to me. ;)

edit: can we at least agree that galvanizing is better than any form of paint?

[oilburner]

JL, I would like to see pictures.

Was it new when it was blasted and dipped? I can certainly see how a bulkhead that has interior rust (which you can't get at with a blaster) could rust away inside out after being dipped.

Ron

PS BTW if you are junking it and it is a defender/90/100 bulkhead, why don't you not do that and sell it to me. ;)

edit: can we at least agree that galvanizing is better than any form of paint?

1966 109 bulkhead, sandblasted through pockets in door pillar and through the front fold, then pickled in acid and dipped. They were never painted inside and the acid wash would remove all the rust. The bad prep work argument does not fly as the inside everywhere but where there are multiple thicknesses is mint, even where no sandblast sand has gone before. Matt has a point that the stuff just does not penetrate between the multiple spotwelded thicknesses. I do 100% agree that it is the best treatment though. With real rustproofing a galvanized bulkhead should last ten years at least in my climate, which means 50 years + anywhere where salting is not a national sport.

I should clarify that it has a bent doorpost or I would run it for another 5 years at least.

[ECR]

was that bulk head prepared by ECR to begin with.....with their dunk tanks? i have to agree galvy should be the way to go when i ever get to mine on my series....

No.
Our dunk tanks didn't exist until Chris Komar worked at the shop and came up with that thought and made them. That was years later.
The yellow 88 was the second coil 88 we ever built and it started life as a nice solid truck that got a chassis and paint work, bulkead was "as found" but painted yellow from its original pastel green.
Each project is done to the customers work orders and their budget. Just because we built it doesn't mean it underwent a full restoration. If we had it to do again with all we have learned it would have a lot of changes from SS brake pipes to our SS coil gas tank and much more... but then again that would depend on the customers budget and what he/she wanted.

Kevin, nice to see the old girl getting a new lease on life with you. Great job!:):):)

------ Follow up post added February 17th, 2010 07:23 PM ------

I've got a folder full of photos from that truck at the old shop. I should dig them out and send them to you for "history" of the beast.

[junkyddog11]

edit: can we at least agree that galvanizing is better than any form of paint?

Depending on where applied I would agree 100%. Bulkheads are still going to be iffy at best and will require an additional rustproofing of some sort and a carefull eye toward maintenance.

I'm a big fan and will always galvy anything I reasonably can including every bit of steel that is bolted to the frame and all door frames and internal bits, hood frame, shock towers, coil buckets, etc etc..........starting with a bare 110 that amounts to an additional 347lbs of zinc (well, on the last one I measured....they are all different). Just feel the need to assert that it is not a dip it and forget it sitiuation as far as the bulkheads are concerned. You'll be disappointed, and in fact will be fairly quickly disappointed as rust will develop readily in a galvanized defender bulkhead which is not the case if seam sealed, painted and waxoyled.

The last bunch I have done are galvanized, painted, seam sealed and waxoyled (cavity wax). we will see how that works. I have one living on one of the saltiest islands in the world. :)

[Ren Ching]

Well whatever you do hopefully the "Previous owner" has learnt how to use a hose and won't leave the bottom of the door posts and the outer side of the toe boxes packed with wet mud again.

:) :) :)

[evilfij]

Last night I wandered out to the garage to look at my galvanized bulkhead and it appears as though the zinc has acted as a seam sealer of sorts and capped off a lot of the gaps where two pieces of sheet metal go together. Not sure if it will eventually crack, but I thought it was worth noting. I am still not planning on painting anything, but I will probably spray some waxoyl in just because (even though I doubt I will have an issue given my location and use).

[Ren Ching]

something I never thought about.I can see how the galv acts as a seam selaer, but if it doesn't, or if the seam opens due to flex and vibration then you will have issues. The seam sealer is pretty important on bulkheads to keep the water out. I had a few inches of sealer come off on my 90 and I started getting water in all kinds of places. Redid the sealer and no more issues. Similar problem on my 109 where the sealer had failed and I ended up replacing the upper part of one of the footwells.

Last night I wandered out to the garage to look at my galvanized bulkhead and it appears as though the zinc has acted as a seam sealer of sorts and capped off a lot of the gaps where two pieces of sheet metal go together. Not sure if it will eventually crack, but I thought it was worth noting. I am still not planning on painting anything, but I will probably spray some waxoyl in just because (even though I doubt I will have an issue given my location and use).

[LFORGUE8]

Kevin any updates.....or pics from Matt's refurb of the bulkhead?

[KevinNY]

Nothing new really. I started into the timing belt change but need to go get a puller to remove the crank pulley. From the looks of things so far, it seems that the belt has never been changed before contrary to what I had been told.

[junkyddog11]

I've had some issues with the replacement bulkhead parts......which after a long wait have turned out to have center sections built all wrong and has buggared up the whole process. I've got six bulkheads in the que and KB's is next in line. Hope to have it sorted by next week and then I can get KB's onto the jig.

Be patient KB....not with me, the crank pulley.

[KevinNY]

Soaking in Kroil right now MB. 2 of the 6 bolts that hold the outer pulley to the crank pulley are larger, I suspect these are for a factory tool gear puller, something I can rent down at Autozone.

[junkyddog11]

fawkin kroil.....I don't know what I'd do without that stuff. That and the "red wrench", which is not much help with crank pulleys.

[LFORGUE8]

fawkin kroil.....I don't know what I'd do without that stuff. That and the "red wrench", which is not much help with crank pulleys.

is that kroil better than rost-off? ive had really good luck with that stuff from wurth...........also rover came out with a "silicone" spray for removing problem o2's and that stuff is like liquid red wrench!

[KevinNY]

Crank pulley off thanks to the proper tool. Pretty darn similar to the LR diesels as you can see. Just need to rotate the engine to line up the timing marks and then relax the tensioner to swap the belt.

[cgalpin]

Looks in good shape in there!

Don't take this the wrong way Kevin, but kind of glad to see a human pace on your project. Some of the guys doing builds are machines...

[KevinNY]

No offense taken at all, I get what your saying. I did this in winter so I would not be rushed to get back on the road, no wheeling now anyways. Between work and this little guy I don't have a ton of free time to spend in a cold garage lately but the pace will pick back up again in the coming weeks.

[Ren Ching]

Between work and this little guy I don't have a ton of free time to spend in a cold garage lately



Cute kid KB. Like father like son. Heartwarming! :)

[KevinNY]

LOL! Thanks for the laugh Dave, I needed it today.

[brn24whl]

Isn't it like 5 weeks to the first wheeling runs? I see some late night wrench parties coming up ;-)

[cgalpin]

Don't blink or you'll be looking at this...

Oh and I dunno what this 5 weeks nonsense is, I'm wheeling this weekend at Rausch Creek!

[KevinNY]

New timing belt is in and bumper, sliders and Matt Brownes custom radiator support (neccessary with the PS conversion) are back from the galvanizer after a hot dip and powdercoat.

[junkyddog11]

As promised (finally) some before pics off the bulkhead

[cgalpin]

Any progress to report over the last 3 weeks Kevin?

[KevinNY]

Just little things. Scrape , grind and prime some rusty patches on the door frames, started sanding panels. Fuel tank to fabricators to recreate in SS. Replacing some small hoses etc.

[KevinNY]

Matt has my bulkhead cut up and ready for new parts but is having supplier problems with replacement parts being ill fitting. I picked up my new fuel tank today. Gone is the crusty box replaced with this SS beauty.

[KevinNY]

Forgot the pic.

[KKilo23]

Forgot the pic.

Nice tank, where did you get it built?

[KevinNY]

CBM Fabrication in Ballston Lake.

[evilfij]

Forgot the pic.

Sexy, any chance he could make 109 SW tanks?

[KevinNY]

It's a big operation, I'm sure it would be no problem. I don't know what the cost would be though, this one cost me 400 which is what he quoted but the girl at the desk said he had over 900 into it based on materials and shop time. The shop was pretty qiuet when I picked it up so I'm sure he was glad to just have something to keep the guys moving.

[KKilo23]

CBM Fabrication in Ballston Lake.

Thats great, they are local, looks like nice work.

------ Follow up post added April 15th, 2010 08:03 PM ------

CBM Fabrication in Ballston Lake.

That's great they're local, looks like nice work.

[KevinNY]

Matt took some progress shots of the bulkhead, can't wait to get it back. Other panels are all sanded out and will be primed and painted in a week or so.

[Cube II]

Wooow...just what I'd need for my IIA...sigh...

[MUDSUX]

Man that looks nice! Did Matt make the panels himself or are they YRM?

[KevinNY]

I'll let Matt answer that but AFAIK he sourced them and resourced them when the originals were nowhere close to correct. All the galvy parts and a good epoxy primer before paint should make it last a good long time now.

BTW Forrest, love the FJ-40!

[MUDSUX]

Thanks Kevin, and Happy Birthday! Sadly the FJ is in storage. I haven't driven it for a couple of years.

[KevinNY]

Matt has finished the bulkhead and was nice enough to post a couple of photos on his Facebook page which I am posting here. Metal prep, epoxy primer and a few coats of desert sand paint next.

[dmarchand]

I like the rust better.

[KevinNY]

I'll give you the old lower half and you can hang it in your garage to inspire you while you clean your frame with a toothbrush.:cool:

[dmarchand]

I buff it for the shine...

the frame that is.

[KevinNY]

Bulkhead is test fit and I took some time today to mark and drill holes for a few things like the series type gas pedal assembly and the heater fan and core. No use painting it and then drilling holes in it. Felt so good to be putting something together for once, of course It will come back off tomorrow and go to paint this weekend or so.

[grnrvrs]

Why not dip it while its off?

[evilfij]

And I would spend $90 and replace the shock towers with the terraflex ones from BP. They are looking a little rusty although it could be dirt as the bottoms look pretty good). They will probably be ok for a while but it would suck to have to pull the fenders again to replace them later.

[TDI Guy]

Looks great Kevin.. Did you decide on a color yet?

[KevinNY]

I have been considering that Ron, "while your in there."

Randy, Gillespie Coatings Lusterless Desert Sand 686A. I will be using a hardener as well so it won't be dead flat, but pretty close. After some help from a local paint supply shop and seeing the other pricey paint jobs done by some here, I realized that for the way I use the truck, a military/tractor paint was really best for me. So I researched on military vehicle forums and found a lot of experiences to go by with the Gillespie Paint.

As far as dipping it, I've considered it and decided not to. I want this back on the road and the prep and expense of getting it dipped would delay that considerably. Stripping it correctly, protecting threads, removing all the little bits like plastic dash screw holders, vents screens and vent seals that have never leaked etc. Most of the repair panels are galvy and I will be doing proper metal prep, epoxy priming , seal seamer and a tough topcoat. I will also be waxoyling the insides of the door posts and the outside up to just above the repair sections. The truck suffered from poor hygene with previous owners and that won't happen this time around. Plus the galvanizer backed a forklift over a windshield frame last time ruining it. They covered it but I am not willing to risk the bulkhead.

[junkyddog11]

The repair panels are all galvy other than where it was removed to "blend". I wouldn't have recommended galvanizing that bulkhead. Good paint, waxoyl cavity wax, good "hygene" and it will almost certainly outlive us all.....or at least the crusty old f$$ks like me.

[KevinNY]

Bulkhead and the rest of the truck primed and painted today. Bulkhead and radiator panel were primed first with PPG epoxy primer. Everything was shot in nice atmospheric conditions with Gillespie Coatings alkyd enamel desert sand, 16:1 with hardener reduced with xylene 15%. Came out to a nice matte finish.

[junkyddog11]

nicely done!

[LFORGUE8]

that is a nice color kevin! good luck reassembling.......has it got less interesting yet?

[KevinNY]

On the contrary, I'm rather chuffed to see it come back together as Goat 2.0

[KevinNY]

Bulkhead secured to chassis, steering and brakes reassembled, fuel filters remounted. Clutch tower, waxoyl and some new brake piping today.

[dmarchand]

You know the deal. Worthless without pics....

[TDI Guy]

You know the deal. Worthless without pics....



Yeah, WTF

[cgalpin]

What they said! That's a rookie move but you are no rookie, so I can only think it was intentional - no teasing allowed.

[KevinNY]

Nothing very exciting to look at so far. You can see the contrast in the old vs. new color at least. Tub will be prepped and painted after it's all moving again.

[KevinNY]

Galvanized repair parts, epoxy primer, paint, waxoyls hardwax on the outside and waxoyl clear wax on the interior. I think I've done what I can to keep the rust worm away this time.

Waxoyl cleanup tip: If you get the black wax on your hands spray some clearwax on them and work it in, clean up with dish soap.

[GYM]

Looking good, Kevin.
It seems most everyone in the NE prefers Waxoyl.

Is there really a difference between the black waxoyl you applied to the bulkhead and, say, 3M spray-on undercoating or other commercial undercoating?

[KevinNY]

Many of the other brands of undercoating are rubber based and will let rust form and spread behind them. Waxoyl goes on like crude oil and never really dries, you can always dig a fingernail into it and disassemble parts that you have applied it to.

[KevinNY]

Clutch pedal tower strip caulked,bolted back in and piped up. Wiper motor and assemblies remounted. Wing mount brackets repainted and reattached with new stud strips. New drivers side brake lines being made up since the old ones were kind of floating around having been made to the contour of the original frame crossmember which was cut out and replaced further forward during the power steering conversion. Goal for the weekend is to have the lines done, front of the frame horns repainted black, radiator panel and radiator/IC installed and the front drivers hub seal replaced as well as run the harness back through the bulkhead and mount upper dash panel. Really observant types will notice that I cut off the lip on the edge of the door opening so that I can use newer defender style door seals.

[cgalpin]

Looking good. So what's strip caulked? Are you caulking between the components before bolting them together? I have my clutch pedal box out of my series right now and it's got a rubber gasket that's looking a little worn and was wondering what the best replacement for it was.

[oilburner]

Color looks good!

[KevinNY]

3M strip caulk, you lay a strip around the hole in the toe box and then drop the pedal tower on and bolt it down. Keeps you from having wet feet when it rains. Also good for sealing up the tunnel and seatbox.

[cgalpin]

Lovely, thanks. I was thinking corrosion, but that makes perfect sense.

[don]

As much as I loved the yellow on that truck, I think that new color will look sick when it's all together. It will certainly match the type of build and if you are keeping the black wheels and SSR's, will match nicely. Great work. Keep the progress/pics comin'!

[KevinNY]

A bit more done. Radiator panel, radiator, horn and IC installed. Time to start pulling some nights and get it sewn up. Fuel tank, wiring harness and dash next.

[evilfij]

Looking great!

If I might add a tiny suggestion, run the black waxoyl up on the flat part of the bulkhead below the pedal boxes. If you are running a mud shield, that area is rust prone. Also, I would run it all the way up the outside where it "flares" for lack of a better term and comes to the little point as mud gets trapped there between the bulkhead and the fender.

[KevinNY]

Great minds think alike, I was going to do exactly what you described. The insides of the door posts are absolutely hosed with waxoyl clear wax too. I'm thinking of making my own or adapting some sort of plastic mudshields instead of the stock ones.

[evilfij]

Great minds think alike, I was going to do exactly what you described. The insides of the door posts are absolutely hosed with waxoyl clear wax too. I'm thinking of making my own or adapting some sort of plastic mudshields instead of the stock ones.

Ike Goss fabbed up some aluminium ones on my series truck (he made the fenders). They flare down lower so that nothing can get up in that area. If I can make my way to the back of my garage and remember when I am out there, I will take a picture or two.

[junkyddog11]

Ive been running a spacer (3/16") behind the mudsheilds where they bolt to the bulkhead which allows the dirty stuff to fall through.....especially if helped by pressurized water.

[Ren Ching]

That'sa good idea. I've always done the same but just with plain washers. It isn't really enough space though. John Gerding at Forever Rover made some nice S.S. ones that went down much lower covering more of the toebox.

The one time I didn't install a mudshield I ended up having to do quite a bit of welding about 5 or 6 years later.


Ive been running a spacer (3/16") behind the mudsheilds where they bolt to the bulkhead which allows the dirty stuff to fall through.....especially if helped by pressurized water.

[KevinNY]

Heater blower and core mounted on the passenger toebox, couple of new pieces of heater hose and the radiator filled back up. Cleaned and reoiled the K&N, mounted new SS fuel tank and reinstalled sender and pick up, new electric lift pump mounted on top of frame rail inboard of tank, clutch piping locked down and refilled, engine bay wiring all hooked back up. Got the yellow topped charged up and should be turning the key in a day or so, then the wings and lights. Seatbox and dash completion after that.

[LFORGUE8]

sweet to hear Kevin....that great day when you start it up again! love that day!

[dmarchand]

Debut at SVTX?

[KevinNY]

No, too soon to push it like that even if it was driveable. Needs an inspection too.

[KevinNY]

It runs!

[KevinNY]

Sort of:angry, I think I got the timing off by a tooth. Nothing to do but go back inside and check it out.

[LFORGUE8]

sort of:angry, i think i got the timing off by a tooth. Nothing to do but go back inside and check it out. thats the worst! Good luck

[KevinNY]

WOW, I dodged the bullet! Went back in and found that I was one tooth off on the timing belt thanks to counting from a smudge on the crank gear rather than the timing dimple. Reinstalled belt, closed it back up and turned the key with fingers and toes crossed and it started on the first turn of the key with the old familiar rumble of a perfect idle! I better go to church soon.

[junkyddog11]

make sure you pray to the right god. The one with dirty fingernails.

[KevinNY]

I have not updated this in a while but the work has continued. It's pretty much all back together and has passed inspection. Everything works as far as gauges and switches and it's running great. Finished the paint (just the tub) on Friday. I now need to put the doors back together and on as well as the trim bits like sliders, winch, CB antenna, corner protectors, raised intake and roll bar. That and install the new ARB compressor under the seat. Need to adjust the fit of the passenger wing and radiator panel so the hood will latch properly too.

[cellulararrest]

Looks great, Kevin. I think you made the right decision on color.

[pmd]

Wow Kevin - looking good ...

[ini88]

I really like that paint job a lot! the black accents really make the combination work great. Have you thought about changing out those RRC rims for some series steelies? just a thought. Overall, looks sweet!

[KevinNY]

I think LR alloys are one of their most underrated accomplishments, they hold the SSR's like friggin beadlocks. I would not want to go any narrower either.

[cgalpin]

I was partial to the yellow, but do like that color. Looking forward to seeing more pictures once the doors are on.

[KevinNY]

I tried to get a better shot of the paint finish, I'll take beauty shots once it's all trimmed out. I'm really happy with the color and the almost flat finish.

[KKilo23]

I tried to get a better shot of the paint finish, I'll take beauty shots once it's all trimmed out. I'm really happy with the color and the almost flat finish.

Finish looks awesome, nice work!

[dave_lucas]

The new color looks great

[ini88]

I think LR alloys are one of their most underrated accomplishments, they hold the SSR's like friggin beadlocks. I would not want to go any narrower either.

You are right, and i know your type of wheeling too. Thats why I run alloys over steels too. I've seen steels lose the tire and bend. really haven't seen anything bad happen to alloys ever. Plus I bet the 3 spoke RRCs are super durable as they are almost completely solid!

[KevinNY]

Plus they are cheap as acorns!

[KevinNY]

Been driving around topless and doorless for a while since it has been so hot outside. Went to install the doors and found that I have some bulkhead alignment to take care of first. I need to move the top of the bulkhead forward so I will loosen everything up today and see if I have the neccessary play in the vertical frame braces.

[Ren Ching]

Horse puckey. I've only ever had one trail flat in my life and it was on a RRC 3 spoke. It bent on a rock and was cracked. i.e. destroyed. The steels I see bent are usually the junky aftermarket rims I see people running. Yes you can bend a wolf rim or the like. But you can bend them back too.

You are right, and i know your type of wheeling too. Thats why I run alloys over steels too. I've seen steels lose the tire and bend. really haven't seen anything bad happen to alloys ever. Plus I bet the 3 spoke RRCs are super durable as they are almost completely solid!

[KevinNY]

Alloy vs. steel = age old arguement

I've seen lots of trail flats and lost beads, more were steels than alloys. I do agree that most of the aftermarket steels are weak sisters to a set of wolfs(which I have owned once too.)

[KevinNY]

Oh BTW, done. It's been such good weather this summer I never put the canvas on, I'll go straight to hardtop soon.

[ECR]

Nice.
Way better color.:):)

[cgalpin]

Yeah I love the color too. Initially I was disapointed you were going away from the yellow but that looks great!

[evilfij]

Looks like you are set for another 15 years of enjoyment!

[KKilo23]

Looking good. Love the new color.

[KevinNY]

Looks like you are set for another 15 years of enjoyment!

Thanks everyone, hopefully he will get to drive it in 15 years.

[alastair]

I just read through this thread over a cup of coffee; great stuff! Is that a MOD roll bar?

[EricWS]

Looks like an Old SD one.

Kevin, why didn't you do the stiffner plates in the footwells when you had the bulkhead re-done? It looks funny when they aren't there to me for some reason. My current bulkhead is galv and it's been fine in Chicago for 8 years. Just was done really poorly and they didn't fix all that they needed to.

Just starting mine soon. Ike got it back from paint and is checking on shipping. I'll start a thread in the series section soon.

God bless folks like Matt and Ike for keeping old bulkheads alive.

[Cube II]

Beautiful!!!
:cool:

[KevinNY]

Yes it is a Safety Devices roll bar and is bolted through to the frame. I'm not even familiar with the "stiffener plates", but it's done now.

[Cube II]

Do you guys use RAL codes as well?
Is there one for your paint?

[KevinNY]

Gillespie Coatings non acrylic alkyd enamel, basically tractor and implement paint. I mixed 1 pot at a time, 16oz. paint, 1oz. hardener, and 3 ounces of xylene.

[don]

Looks great! Your son is stoked on it too

[EricWS]

Yes it is a Safety Devices roll bar and is bolted through to the frame. I'm not even familiar with the "stiffener plates", but it's done now.
Check Ike's site. He has several pages for a bulkhead restoration. They were fitted in the upper footwells and support the pedals. Just a detail thing as the RN panels lack them...

EwS

[KevinNY]

The Goat will be going up for sale soon. If any of the followers of this thread thought to themselves, "I'd like to own that truck." You can get in touch with me via PM before I take the beauty shots and start to advertise it.

KB

[Bozman]

Who . . . what . . . but the . . . what about . . . huh?

[dmarchand]

uh what?

[brn24whl]

Market drops 500 points Kevin sells his truck what is the world coming to?

[dmarchand]

Last time that happened was 2008, we were in Moab. He just wanted to wheel more once the market tanked.

[TDI Guy]

Say it ain't so....

[cgalpin]

Ok, I'll be more explicit - why? Surely you are not getting out of the Rover game. 110 in your future?

[KevinNY]

I still have my classic as well as a '97FZJ80. Need more of a family wheeler in the near future and the truck is in great shape for a sale right now, the buyer does not need to do a thing, new bulkhead, fresh paint, new timing belt and glow plugs etc. Every upgrade is already there, dual ARB's Hd axles/CV's etc.

[oilburner]

Kevin,

If you ever get tired of the fuel mileage in the FZJ, and are looking for options, I've got a pretty easy swap to TDI power figured out for these tanks:

http://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/401163-mitsubishi-4d34-3at3b-diesel-swap-into-94-fzj80.html

I'm getting about 22-25 mpg since I swapped it, runs great, more vibrations than the 6 but quiet and easy to drive.

[junkyddog11]

sounds cheesy

[KevinNY]

Ad in classified section now.