new rotors and pads... anything else?

[hutch]

I've got just under 60K on my 97 D90. My brakes started squeaking a bit and sure enough the pads are pretty warn. and the rotors thin as well. They are well below the 11.x mm I've seen on the board. I thought I'd replace both the pads and rotors so I don't need to think about it for a while.

When replacing the rotors is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? I've never done it before (questionable if I'll time to do it myself with my nutty schedule) - should bearings be replaced versus just repacked? Lines? Anything else? Assuming if more major things such as the lines look good there is no point in replacement. A little voice in my head says "don't fix it if it ain't broke" but I tend to challenge that law a lot.

I'm just wondering if there "might as well replace XYZ" items along the way.

[Davis]

I would definitely repack the bearings, but doubtful that they will need replacing unless they or their races look worn. Probably not at 60K miles. You can get a cheap bearing grease packer that looks like two plastic cones with a central shaft and grease nipple on it that will make this much easier. If you do have to replace the bearings, do the races as well. Not a bad time to replace your seals if you notice any leaking while you are in there or just to replace them--they do wear out and you can find them for not too much $$. You may consider "converting" your axles to wet seals so your diff fluid lubricates your bearings--you will need a different seal--just do a search here for more information on this. My rears are wet, but I have not converted my fronts (although I have the seals laying around here somewhere...)

[evilfij]

Repack bearings. You will need four hub seals to do the inner ones too.

[bjf]

Dreading my 60k service on the 90 this week. I know I need brakes as well.

[Cory]

Just finished this last night myself. Get a small tub of bearing grease (high temp rated). You'll need the whole thing if packing by hand.

Rover's North offers a rotor kit (not including rotors) that includes new gaskets, folding washer and the hub seal. You'll to replace them all.

Since you're doing pads get their pad kit that has new clips and pins.

For the rotors, I picked mine up from Auto Parts International and got their top line for $45 each. I didn't change the pads but it made a HUGE difference.

While you're working on the brakes you might as well bleed them if the fluid is cloudy or discolored.

Follow-up Post:

You'll also need Blue locktite and either a 2 1/16 socket or a big set of channel locks.

If you're going to replace the bearings then get some brass drifts for the races. If then you'll probably find one that needs replacing. You can grab them from NAPA (BR37).

[hutch]

Everyone thanks for the advice.

I'm digging up prices now and the big expense seems to be the brakes in general. Unless it truly doesn't make sense it seems like while I have it all off I should replace the bearings/races for preventative medicine. Kinda hard to get back in there once I put everything back together! ;)

Shane I may contact you offline to get the part numbers just to ensure I'm on track.

Thanks again-

[bjf]

what does a rotor/ pad job cost for all four wheels. my truck is getting its 60k raping and I know it needs brakes. Just wondering if being cheap will beat lazy.

[hutch]

what does a rotor/ pad job cost for all four wheels. my truck is getting its 60k raping and I know it needs brakes. Just wondering if being cheap will beat lazy.Atlantic British has the whole kit ("wet seal" kind) that includes the hub seal kits, pads, rotors, etc, for both axles for $339. This doesn't include bearings but I don't plan to change them out.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9995F.cfm?bc=ab

[bjf]

I take it that it would be even more for genuine

[brn24whl]

Atlantic British has the whole kit ("wet seal" kind) that includes the hub seal kits, pads, rotors, etc, for both axles for $339. This doesn't include bearings but I don't plan to change them out.

http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/9995F.cfm?bc=ab

I made it the Wet Seal kind for you. Normally they are the factory style but for the D-90 guys I normally do the upgrade.

Eric

[JimC]

I'm sure that labor would be more than parts in this case - I don't know what the book says, but I could easily see (especially a dealer) billing 1.5 hours per corner for a brake job since it requires hub removal...

[ini88]

Barry, do them yourself. Its always good to know how to do the wheel bearings because i find they like to go once in a while and really are not too bad to do. Might take you a day if you take your time.

Brake pads are the easiest thing to do, rotors might be a pain tot get off but a nice huge hammer will take care of that. here is a pretty good run through on how to do them: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10286

and as a tip, I always find it better to never back off the nut to the bearing as new grease will settle after a bit and you will have to go back in there after 300 miles or so and make sure they are snug. If you back off the nut on fresh packed bearing then they will give you trouble.

[bjf]

cool. I repacked one wheel on the 110 so I have the tools etc. I will wait to hear from the shop to see if I need rotors and pads or just pads. If it is just pads then no problem i will do it.

[aosias]

I ordered the parts online- Atlantic British I believe. Tire Rack was on back order. I think it was $250 for the front pads/rotors and all the little bits. I had a local mechanic do the install and it was another $300 in labor.

[evilfij]

Am I the only one who does not like wet seal?

[JimC]

Am I the only one who does not like wet seal?

I didn't set mine up that way.

[brn24whl]

Am I the only one who does not like wet seal?
Ron
I look at it this way we never sold wheel bearings until ABS cars with dry seals came out. Most Americans are not good at keeping up with packing wheel bearings. Like my British customers tell me all the time They have cars to tinker with Americans have cars to drive.

Eric

[hutch]

I made it the Wet Seal kind for you. Normally they are the factory style but for the D-90 guys I normally do the upgrade.Is there any difference in the seal (size, fitting, etc) that would require retrofitting beyond what the kit has? I believe you said "No" over the phone so I'm just verifying. Is the only difference is that it allows the gear oil in the diffs/axles to lubricate the bearings by being porous?

...or do I have this all wrong and it's just witchcraft? :grin

[brn24whl]

Is there any difference in the seal (size, fitting, etc) that would require retrofitting beyond what the kit has? I believe you said "No" over the phone so I'm just verifying. Is the only difference is that it allows the gear oil in the diffs/axles to lubricate the bearings by being porous?

...or do I have this all wrong and it's just witchcraft? :grin They fit all the same nothing else to worry about.


Eric

[evilfij]

Ron
I look at it this way we never sold wheel bearings until ABS cars with dry seals came out. Most Americans are not good at keeping up with packing wheel bearings. Like my British customers tell me all the time They have cars to tinker with Americans have cars to drive.

Eric

As long as you repack your bearings when you do rotors and don't go wading all the time, bearings are usually fine.