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View Full Version : Clutch change, advices/tricks/warnings ?


JFD
January 11th, 2010, 03:31 PM
I'm doing it this week, i'm planning to change clutch cover,
clutch plate and release bearing.

As i'll have access, i'll also change rear main seal.

Any good advice or warning ?

Just in case someone wants to know, part numbers are:
cover URB100760 / plate UQB500030 / bearing FTC5200
rear seal LUF100430 / gasket ERR6811

Hans
January 11th, 2010, 03:48 PM
be prepared to pull the flywheel too, often need resurfacing. Get an alignment pilot tool if you can find one at a fair price, very helpful for making a quick install.

-Hans

evilfij
January 11th, 2010, 03:49 PM
don't forget to remove the half round shaped cover plate on the bottom of the transmission.

rover4x4
January 11th, 2010, 04:08 PM
what about the cross seals on the rear main cap and might as well do the slave cylinder and flex hose.

JFD
January 11th, 2010, 04:41 PM
Hans, thanks.

Ron, whaat ?

Phillip, I'm doing the slave also, the flex looks still
really well but i'll check it closely. Where are those cross
seals ?
:thehand

Neil McCauley
January 11th, 2010, 05:53 PM
+1 on that clutch alignment tool. Or get an old main shaft and use that (providing that the teeth aren't sheared off).

John_Karlsson
January 11th, 2010, 06:11 PM
And the bushing in the flywheel.

Are you planning to drop the transmission or just pull it back?

JFD
January 11th, 2010, 08:10 PM
And the bushing in the flywheel.

Are you planning to drop the transmission or just pull it back?

I'll drop it. I may also change rear propshaft u-joints.

huck1974
January 11th, 2010, 09:01 PM
the plastic clutch alignment tool at the auto parts store that fits Mitsubishi fits.

Always do the rear main and resurface flywheel. Use small sections of 2x4 against the frame with a bottle jack and a piece of pipe to get the crossmember out of the way.

Reach way up high on top of the transfer case to make sure you pulled those two wires. Mark them so you remember where they go so that your diff lock light works again.

I have a lift and a tranny jack. Hope you have both or a good friend with both. It sucks even with them. You couldnt pay me to do it without them.

Don't force things on the way back in or you will end up starting over.
Good luck, been there twice recently

Antichrist
January 12th, 2010, 09:23 AM
Make the jack adaptor.

evilfij
January 12th, 2010, 10:03 AM
When I pulled my first trans, I forgot to take over the cover plate on the bottom part of the front of the bellhousing. as a result I thought it was stuck, but it was the clutch hitting the plate.

Ren Ching
January 12th, 2010, 10:39 AM
Must be a V8 thing

When I pulled my first trans, I forgot to take over the cover plate on the bottom part of the front of the bellhousing. as a result I thought it was stuck, but it was the clutch hitting the plate.

Red90
January 12th, 2010, 10:46 AM
Also replace the clutch fork and slippers. These wear.

Neil McCauley
January 12th, 2010, 11:57 AM
[QUOTE=
Don't force things on the way back in or you will end up starting over.
Good luck, been there twice recently[/QUOTE]

Just curious, what do you mean when you say starting over, like if the release bearing was to accidentally get unpinned while fitting?

Antichrist
January 12th, 2010, 12:01 PM
Oh, two things I forgot.
- Make some locating dowels. Bell housing to flywheel housing size bolts (3/8 x 16tpi) about 4-6" long with the heads cut off and slightly tapered. 4 should be enough. Screw them in to the flywheel housing and use as guides to fit the gearbox.
- When refitting be careful not to catch the O2 sensor leads inside the bell housing. Don't ask me how I know what a pain it is. ;)

JFD
January 13th, 2010, 06:21 PM
Thanks :thumbs for all inputs, probably starting tomorrow.

huck1974
January 13th, 2010, 08:13 PM
Just curious, what do you mean when you say starting over, like if the release bearing was to accidentally get unpinned while fitting?

If you get pissed off at it you can easily F up the pilot bushing.

JFD
January 14th, 2010, 11:11 AM
Transmision out this morning. The fault was on the clutch
release arm. Popped open on the lever point, i guess
lack of lubrication weared and weakened it.

I'll change disk and plate anyway as i'm there now.

JFD
January 20th, 2010, 04:36 PM
A few pics better than a thousand words, also the
trans. before and after:

John_Karlsson
January 20th, 2010, 04:55 PM
That's a known weak point. Look here for a cure:

http://www.britrest.com/Projects/disco_engine_swap_3.htm

tomaco1
January 20th, 2010, 07:27 PM
There should be a post for the little things not forget when doing major jobs!

I just found out about the soft clutch line the hard way(that was the one thing I didn't change with the master and slave)


And now I'm worried I didn't change the clutch fork and slippers!

Gren_T
January 21st, 2010, 08:23 AM
a good tip for the clutch fork is to replace the fork and pivot with the cast type used on early V8's they dont snap on the arms or wear through the pivot.

you can also buy a modified arm that has a tab welded across the back of the arm over the pivot socket
you should look at the pivot in the belhousing, make sure it has not worn a shoulder into it off the pivot as the will shag a new arm pronto.

regards.

JFD
January 21st, 2010, 08:55 AM
Better safe than sorry so i'll change the pivot also and weld
reinforcement on the arm.

Damned, before you know the all clutch is new !

evilfij
January 21st, 2010, 10:22 AM
I was wondering what would cause you to need a clutch that soon.