Interior Stainless Steel or Checker Plating

[Nobrega]

I'm thinking about lining the inside of my d90 with a metallic material. I've been looking at the posts for rhino lining and such, but has anyone had any experience using checker plating or staineless steel in the back bed, as door skins and in the foot wells(kinda like the Tomb Raider one)? I was wondering how costly it was, whether it helps against rust or promotes it(by holding in the mositure underneath) and whether is does anything for noise dampening. Thanks - Andrew Nobrega

[Buckon37s]

I have aluminum interior door skins on the front doors and rear. Some on the dash where I flushed in a CB and some on the hard top and bulk head. I used 1/8 Diamond plate aluminum except for where I mounted the speakers. I had to use 1/4 there to stop shaking. Anyway, its easy, cheap, light, and looks good. It does nothing for noise dampening but, you can lay down thick insulation behind it and that helps a lot.

[Nobrega]

Do u happen to have any pictures? If not, no worries.... - Andrew Nobrega

[Buckon37s]

I don't but I will take some and post them as soon as I get back from vacation! I will be in the carribean untill the next monday and I will post them then. Sorry for the wait!

edit: There are a few pictures of it in "Finally, some pictures for all those who asked" in the Chit Chat section. Just where the speakers are mounted though, not the doors.

[Nobrega]

Cool, sounds good....Have A Great Time Down There!

[artm]

I'd watch out for galvanic reaction (where different metals touch) and trapped water promoting rust.

I also never liked the idea of rhino-lining. What if rust develops? You won't see it until it's real bad and then touching up the lining can be tricky.

I'd much prefer rubber mats and a rear liner. Removable so you can clean underneath. You can even get the kind with "bubble" so there's airflow underneath when it's all down.

Of course, I'm coming from practicality. If all you care about is looking pretty then nothing can stop you!

[Nobrega]

I like the bubble idea, never heard of it.....do they make them for Defenders or due u have to cut it yourself?

If I have a piece of insulation between the aluminum and the diamond plating would there still be the reaction? I guess the screws would be connecting the whole thing eh?

In terms of the door skins and the metallic aspects, I need to replace some things, like the skins anyway, and I was thinking of trying something new. I'd like it to look nice but I'm also thinking about practicality, that's why I was asking about the possibilty of rust and the sound proofing.

As of now, the footwells need to be well cleaned and de-rusted, and the door skins need to be replaced....so I was thinking that I would look for some sort of theme or uniform look to the new additions which I would be interested in maintaining with future changes(when needed). So as u said, I need practicality, but I'm interested in a 'look' aswell.

Sorry if that was a little long winded.....Thanks for the input, it's helping me alot! ... Keep it comin'!!!

Thanks - Andrew Nobrega

[TDI Guy]

Andrew, I got some great 5 bar diamond plate stuff made for the rear bed of my truck fro www.rovertracks.com .... give them a call.

[norros]

Andrew,

I've been thinking of going the route of diamond plating as well...

There's a guy in upstate NY that has a couple of cool diamond plate interior pieces, his website is: www.motosource.com , a rear door piece and front interior sill pieces.

Oh, and if you're looking for an interior load mat for the back, I just ordered one from Nathan at discountbritishparts.com, it's taken a while but he beat everyone's prices by far. I don't know about the 'bubble' one, but this is the genuine D90 thick loadspace mat. Even if I do diamond plating I'm still going to want that mat anyway.

There is a loadspace diamond plate & footwell diamond plate LR setup, I got it off some UK/German/LR site I believe, (don't remember which one..) I attached a couple pics...

Let me know how you make out.

Nicholas Orros

[artm]

I like the bubble idea, never heard of it.....do they make them for Defenders or due u have to cut it yourself?

If I have a piece of insulation between the aluminum and the diamond plating would there still be the reaction? I guess the screws would be connecting the whole thing eh?



The "bubble" is the rubber sheets that have alternating risers top and bottom. It's interchangeable top and bottom and allows airflow. You cut it yourself.

You must use some insulating barrier between metals. But what about the screws? Some say coat them with something (like copper grease for stainless door hinge scews, stainless kit, etc) but I don't know if that'll hold up. I guess it should as I see plenty of stainless screw kits used without problems.

You can also try a product called Corrosion X. It's a spray you apply to anywhere there's galvanic reaction or the possibility of it. It coats all surfaces with an insulater and is supposed to work real well. You can even use it under the body and it holds up to any salt/water spray.

[vesparover]

I did it to my d90, lined the whole thing with dynomat, then jute insulation, then custom bent all the 5 bar plate. I used two 4 by 8 sheets of treadplate, that al from dap ordered for me from bearmach. I think I paid $120 a sheet. The biggest bitch was using the breaker and having the sheets come out right, measurement and realizing that metal expands when you bend it is the key. In all it took some time, but I think it looks awesome. People always freak out when they catch a glimpse of it. I'll have to borrow a digital camera to take some pics for you.
brian bertolini

[Nobrega]

This is great advice everyone, thanks! I'm gonna reasearch all the options u guys are suggesting. I've already decided to get the door sill protectors from motosource because my door sills need them pretty badly. I just wish they weren't so expensive. As I am already installing the stainless steel bolt kit this galvanising advice is very useful too. Thanks Again... And Keep it Comin'...the more advice the better! - Andrew Nobrega

[Eric Siepmann]

Andrew,

Check the look of the Motosource stuff. I don't think it is the English 4 bar but the American one. Clear as Mud eh? I don't think it looks like the pictures above. Tony sent me a picture of his sill protectors and they are the american style.... So if your a purist, this will get on your nerves.

EwS

[Nobrega]

Sorry, could u explain, I didn't know there was a difference..... - Andrew Nobrega

[dmarchand]

Funny Eric, I was just typing the exact same reply you did.

I ended up buying a 5 bar rear SW door panel off roverbiz.com (D. Cantrell) from CA, on Ebay. Price was right and it looks much nicer than my ratty cardboard panel...

You want to also be aware of the differences in 5 bar. For instance, some has a shiny mirror finish, and some is brushed to alleviate that mirrored finish.

[Eric Siepmann]

Sure.

The Euro chec plate has a different look than does the american variety. The pictures above show the correct UK plate.

http://www.motosource.com/prod_panel.html

Is the American style. Notice how the UK is a square pattern, hence the Chequer designation. The American in the picture above is diamond shaped hence the diamond plate moniker here in the states.

You'll have to get the Chequer from Rover tracks or the UK.

I hope this is clearer.

Wicks! Where are you when I need you!

EwS

[Nobrega]

Ya, ok that makes perfect sense. I was looking at the pictures of the Tomb Raider Defender and saw the difference but didn't realise one was American and the other was British....I think I like the look of the Chequer plating better. Is the material used in the dash of the Tomb Raider truck Polished Aluminum? (Pics are in the MISC PICTURES section)

[Eric Siepmann]

Andrew,

The motosource stuff is really nice. But it isn't the CHequer plate. It is American Diamond Plate you see on Jeeps.

Look at the pictures above and the one from the link? See how the motosource has a different pattern? It doesn't really matter unless you obsess over OEM and originality. I really like tony's stuff and think it is worth the money. The only issue is that It would not match your wing top protectors.

EwS

http://www.motosource.com/prod_panel.html

Follow-up Post:

Should have it refresh. The UK stuff is available from the UK vendors. Try the usual suspects, but I would give the guys are rovertracks first dibs as they are in the USA and look like they do awesome work.

EwS

[dmarchand]

Ha ha... I didn't know John Lee's truck had a Motosource sticker down the side... :grin

[Defender50th]

Hi there,

Have a look at www.rebel4x4.co.uk. They do chequer plating for the back and it will show you what its like. You shoud be ok making it yourself though.

Best regards

James
Defender 50th GB 002

[Krna]

I really like the foot mats that Nicholas shows, so if anyone knows where to find this, that would be awesome

[Nobrega]

Wow, that rebel site has all the right pics, thanks!

[artm]

From the Rebel site:

"Aluminium Back Body Liners to fit 90/Ser IIA/III and 110 are ideal for concealing any mishaps such as corrosion or electrolysis in your Landrovers’ rear body"

What good is concealing it? You have to fix it! How are you going to know what's going on under all this shiny stuff? I'll bet you'll install it and forget about it. One day you'll be crawling underneath the truck and see a bunch of corrosion happening. Nice job on your hands then.

Of course, as I said before, if you are hell-bent on looking pretty then there's no stopping you.

A D90 that looks shiny and pretty?! Plllleeeeeease!

[Nobrega]

If I do this, my plan is not to cover up the corrosion. I've already dealt with fixing the corrosion. My use for the aluminum is to be a removable surface which is durable and waterproof. If I find that there is corrosion underneath, I will simply remove it, clean it again, then put it back in. I do not plan on laying this down as a perminamt surface but a removable one. Presently I have the rubber matting, I tend to move heavyish materials around and thus slide alot of things into the back of the truck. The matting makes this kind of hard due to the friction, but I imagine the aluminum is much better. This is why I am thinking about it for the bed. As for the door skins, I'm just thinking about matching the bed.

[artm]

I often load up the rear with heavy items and my solution is a piece of checker plate cut in thirds (front to back) with two piano hinges down the middle. When open it fits the entire rear, hinges down of course, thiings slide easily and packs away nicely when folded.

[norros]

Andy,

The site I grabbed it from was one of my favorites, it's a German one though...
The link is: http://www.matzker.de

If you don't speak or read German, you'll have to go to a 'translation' website, I usually use:
http://babelfish.altavista.com/
just type in the Matzker link and click 'German to English' and that will translate 'most' of it.
Then click on '4x4 Shop' ... then 'komfort' I believe... it's in there...

Good luck.

Nicholas