AC Parts

[boshea]

Has anyone found a decent source for misc. Air Conditioning parts?

Thanks,
Brian

[Mark M]

I haven't investigated parts for older systems, but I noticed that Rovers North has new 2004 AC kits for Defenders. They are around $2500. When I spoke with them regarding another order I asked David if they would work in a '94 NAS and was informed that they would. I'm in the process of buying a Defender and the fact that I could add AC to one that doesn't have it is a major issue. Like you I live in LA and not having AC will NOT work.

Knowing that I can ad AC makes the search for my truck a bit more interesting. On Tuesday I went out to Santa Monica to look at a '94 soft top. I should have called before I went out, but when I got there I immediately dismissed it since it didn't have AC. Later that night was when I noticed the AC units on the Rovers North home page. I think I'll have to go back and give it a second look and test drive :)

By the way, the link to the units Rovers North is offering is this:

http://www.roversnorth.com/defender/defender_ac.html

Cheers.

-Mark

[Campbell]

Sorry if I'm hijacking you message. Let me know if in your search you ever find this part(cover). I have been looking for it for sometime and NO body has it.
Thanks

[Burke]

Mark, did RN give any idea about install time or difficulty on the new system? Does anyone have experience with this? I have been toying with the idea of adding AC to the 90 for 10 yrs now... I always end up buying a cheap daily driver instead. ;) Thanks

[norros]

I purchased my D90 SW on 02/02/02 and installed A/C about 6 months after... RN didn't have their kit but it looks like the same one, the only difference is that one has the controls on the left side instead of middle.

You may want to check around with George at Roversdownsouth.com or Mohammed at Rovercity.com to see if he has one or can point you in the right direction. Believe it or not, when I got mine the best price was at a dealer... I had a guy named Jim Cartier at a place (now long gone from what I hear) called 'Seminole Rovers' in Tampa put it in and buy it from the dealer at a discounted price. I paid under $2000 for mine. (I did a write up when I got it on lrx.com back then, just do a search for 'a/c' ... ).
All in all I think I paid about $2200-$2300 TOTAL (unit, tax, install, everything...) and it ran good until I just blew a fuse...

I love RN but sometimes their prices can be debated.

As far as the original post, I'd try the guys I listed as well for 'miscellaneous a/c parts'...

Nicholas Orros

[rcork]

I just converted my 110 to r134 after the ac line blew out. No one could get me the factory parts within a couple months, so I just did my own. I had lines built locally, $130. I bought a dryer from napa with a new pressure switch, $45. I flushed the condenser with paint thinner, compressed air, and nitrogen. I just happen to have access to ac tools so that helps. I changed the oil in the compressor to r134 compatible oil, and all is good. I just tested it yesterday, it was only 80's outside, but i had 34 degree air out of the center vent with the fan on position 4 and recirc selected. If you need help go to www.ackits.com and read their forum. If my condenser doesn't keep things cool enough, I'll fit a parallel flow condenser from ackits.com.
I should get some pictures and send this into Chris for the FAQ.
Best,
Robert

[Doug]

Robert,

I'm in the process of converting to r134, having just put a used r134 compressor in the 110 along with a new hvac box (was fire damaged). Are the other parts changes you did above mandatory? Or can the existing dryer and pressure switch etc. work with the r134? If I need them, what model numbers/parts numbers were they at NAPA?

THanks! DW

[rcork]

Doug,
Yes, I was told you have to change the dryer to one compatible with r134. I just took my dryer into NAPA and went through the part book looking for one thay had in stock. I need to check my reciept at home for the part number for you. The napa one will not fit exactly, but you can bend the end of the tube with the sight glass in it and then have a small hose made to connect the new dryer to the bottom of the condenser. The new dryer will mount in the same mounting brackets as the old one, but lower down. I ended up using the same switch and just screwed it into the new dryer. I'll send you a couple part numbers of dryers that will work.
Best,
Robert

[Trevor Tarr]

I go through a/c vent louvres like crazy. Passengers' feet are especially prone to collapsing the flimsy plastic design. Mine consistently fail at the side holes where the central louvered assemply attaches to the mounting bezel. What I'm wondering is: what will all the aluminum and stainless hardware now available for cosmetic dashboard upgrades, has anyone designed a metal-reinforced version of the a/c vents?

[aosias]

To piggy back this thread I was wondering if those of you that have the RN AC unit could comment on it. Is it worth the $$ and how difficult is the install? Also, it looks like it has speaker mounts for under the dash, is this correct? If so have any of you mounted your speakers there?


Thanks,
Alex

[bterpstra]

I have a pretty complete A/C assembly (vents, compressor, all the fiddly bits) if you care to take the plunge. I'm up in Evergreen, so not too hard to put it all in the truck & deliver.

[ECR]

On the original post:
We take out a lot of older AC systems (factory units) so although they are usually broken some of the parts are still good. email me with what you need. We have sold some take offs to folks on this board.

As for the new RN AC systems: They fit pretty well and considering ther original factry bits are NLA its good solution considering there is not much of an alternative. I've done so many I've lost track, at least a dozen or more. In a 1994 it means moving the EFI ECU to the side of the bulkhead and thi can cause water leaking issues into the ECU. If you do it make a good water guard for the ECU, or seal it or something. In a 1995 its a very clean install.
The kit they offer ofr a 1997 is not something I would ever install personally. Not good enough for my customers.

The fit of the kit is good, same stuff the factory used in the last generation Defender. Its all made by Smiths in South Africa.
My only real beef is that it is not set up to be tied into the EFI ECU so that the engine will not flare/ stumble at idle when the compressor clutch kicks on and off. Its an easy fix, but so far my attempts to have RN fix the problem with a few simple changes has met with much resistance. I guess they figure it works well enough, so perfect is not needed.
If you want to tie it into the EFI ECU like the factory intended its easy and I can tell you how to do it.

The new AC unit has provisions for speakers, so if you have them in your dash (like a 110 did), just move them to the new AC unit. If you don't have them the kit comes with covers for those holes. I still like speakers in the doors personally.

The AC vents in the newer kist are from RR Classics, and yes they break just as easy, but good news is they are easy to get when they do break.

[Overlander]

Mike, I have the same system that RN sells with the switches on the left, and I my system as of late had been freezing up after about an hour. I just had it diagnosed, and was told that the compressor won't switch off when the engine is running, and it is likely the pressure switch. Do you have any laying around your willing to sell? I'm told by RN the part # is STC3976, a 3 wire switch that goes under the dash facia by the switches apparently. going to look under there later this week.

[pendy]

That sounds more like a problem with the anti-frost switch. I think that A/C system has one. I may have one to look at. That pressure switch is a PITA to change by memory. Why don't you contact the manufacturer about the switch?

And a frost switch could be added to the system if they do not currently use one.

Possibly an overcharge of freon as well. 134A likes a smaller quantity, many shops tend to overcharge the system. Some could accidently be vented.

[Overlander]

thank Jim. I'm going to have to try and come up with a wiring schematic for this system. I have no idea what it is. RN has the pressure switch for $143. Would hate to buy it and have it not be the issue. What does the anti-frost switch do exactly, and where is it?