110 Newbie looking for help

[Marx-110]

I am trying to figure a few things out about my NAS 110,
1. I got it with 235/85's on it, is this effecting my speedo and gearing? If so is it possible to recalibrate?
2. I can barely use 5th, anything to do with the tires?
3.I have the typical condensation in the guages anything I can do short of replacing them?
4. I am looking at some LR heavy duty springs and Bilstien shock kit from Rovers North, basically I am looking to improve the handleing is this overkill? Should I just go with the shocks?
Can anyone provide some insight?

[tbmcneill]

I've never owned a 110, but.....

1. I don't know what tire 110s originally came with, but if that tire is taller than the stock 110 tire, then yes, that could affect your speedometer (not your gearing .... gearing will stay the same regardless of tire size). That tire is ~32" tall which is the same height as the NAS 90s. Assuming the speedo is off you could run a programmable speedo .... or buy a GPS.

2. Yes, all else being equal, taller tires will make a rig feel more sluggish with regards to acceleration and top speed (maybe what you were referring to in #1 about gearing?).

3. Never had that problem .... can you disassemble them?

4. Heavy duty LR springs are probably going to make the ride stiffer ... at least thats been my experience with them. On the other hand, Bilstein shocks are arguably the best on-road (&, depending on application, off-road) shock available. They will go a long way in improving ride quality. If you're looking to upgrade springs, I'd look at Rovertym's and Safari Gard's springs. They're probably going to have some lower spring rates which will translate to a more comfortable ride .... but, you may find the truck having more roll in the corners depending on how low a rate and tall of a spring you go. All that said, I'm certain the guys at RoversNorth can give you some good direction for your intended application if you haven't talked with them yet.

$0.01s worth....
T

[Marx-110]

That helps. Thanks for taking the time!

[rover4x4]

that gages on my 95 90 fog sometimes. this has been discussed in the past.

[Doug]

Get or borrow a GPS and check your speedo. My 110 actually got MORE accurate with larger tires. Don't know why, but I'm applying 'gift horse' strategy.

Never had the instrument problem.

Don't understand why you have issues with 5th gear. The t-case in a 110 has a lower ratio than the 90, to compensate for the added weight. You should be able to cruise at 65, 70 in 5th on flat road without problem. If not, then you may have a power issue.

Hope that helps.

[Bowtracer]

Simon, I have owned a 110 for 10 years. The first thing I would address is the fact that you can't use 5th. WOW, I cruse at 75 with no sweat. [I have 255 85's] It sounds like you have same engine issues! How many miles do you have? Did you do a compression test?
I have had a little condensation in my amp guage for 10 years it seems to come & go. As far as handling what are your intentions? You need to build your susp to suit your needs. I would be glad to talk further if you would like pm me & I will give you my # & we can talk.

[mikeslandrover]

1) 90 & 110 have the same transfer boxes 1.410 for diesel and 1.22 for V8's very early 110 2.3ltr 4pots had the very low 1.66 transfer box(they had to as the engine had such a tiny amount of power). Some auto Range Rovers had virtually 1:1 transfer box ratios, one of my mates ended up with this transfer box and the truck couldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding let alone climb hills.
2) There's got to be something wrong with your engine as my 110 200 tdi pulls 5th gear and GKN overdrive with 235/85R16 road pattern tyres. Either that or something is binding, are the brakes O.K? Are the Tyres correctly inflated? Does the hand brake disengage properly?

[DJ Menasco]

3.I have the typical condensation in the guages anything I can do short of replacing them?


While I recommend removing the OEM for VDO (They’re far superior to the OEM gauges and inexpensive too!) you can avoid condensation build up with a minor alteration to each gauge.

In order to prevent condensation build up you need to allow the gauges to maintain the same temperature and humidity as the cab. You'll have to pull the dash cluster and remove each gauge from its cowl. Next I would drill a very small weep-hole in the back of each gauge. This should solve your problem. If decide to purchase the VDO gauges you can avoid the condensation issue because they already possess a weep hole.

DJ

[Doug]

Mike, the 93 NAS 110's were shipped to the states with a 1.41 ratio tcase. The 90s have the 1.22.

[evilfij]

1. the tires are within a couple percent of the stock 7.50x16s so your speedo should be accurate
2. I suggest you have the vehicle looked at. even a heavy 110 should pull fine in 5th. Could be a number of things, ignition, fuel etc. that could be effecting performance. now if you are coming from a porsche of bmw, you may be expecting too much.
3. condensation? I do not concern myself
4. I would start with shocks. then do springs if you feel you need them, again, improve handling 110--"manage expectations"

Ron

[TwisteD90]

Mike, the 93 NAS 110's were shipped to the states with a 1.41 ratio tcase. The 90s have the 1.22.

Doug is right. However, there is a small correction. The first 500 D90's came with 1.41 t-case ;) Just thought someone would care.

[flippedrover]

Just to add to this. I've got #400 and i've got a 1.22. Go figure. :rolleyes

[TwisteD90]

Huh! I got that number from a very reliable source. However, after thinking about it, it could be 200. Who knows???????

[flippedrover]

It runs that's all that matters.

[TwisteD90]

It runs that's all that matters.

Exactly :)

[mikeslandrover]

Mike, the 93 NAS 110's were shipped to the states with a 1.41 ratio tcase. The 90s have the 1.22.
Well I live & learn :stick
But that's even more reason that it should pull 5th gear just fine. As I said my 110 pulls 5th+GKN overdrive(+28%) [when it's working, but that's a whole different story}
It's a 200 tdi with a 1.41 transfer box.
I'd check everything mentioned in the replies.
You won't want to hear this but if the engine hasn't had regular oil changes the lobes on the cam tend to wear away, the valves don't open very far and there is a distinct lack of power. I've seen a few of my partners in crime discover this when investigating lack of power. You'll have to take off the inlet manifold and remove the valley gasket to have a look. The good news is that the cam can be changed without taking the engine out. :rolleyes

[Marx-110]

I am amazed, you guys are the best! I am going to look at all suggested.
I decieded to go with the LR Heavy Duty Springs and Bilstien shocks (just got them yesterday).
Regarding the 5th problem based on the postings I think my description was not accurate enough. I was probably expecting too much, it was less that I didn't have power but that I was putting it into fifth in situations that I clearly should have stayed in fourth (higher speeds but up and down fairly steep hills). Dumb I know!
We will see how the handling improves, I may be ready to take on the local school bus and beat it in a slalom course now! Wish me luck!

[COSteve]

Simon, Remember to check the oil cooler lines and replace (many threads on this subject) if you don't know their age.
Welcome!
COSteve

[Marx-110]

Thanks! I remember seeing this mentioned, did anyone come up with a braided stainless option for these?

[scot]

Yes! Replace those oil cooler lines...if you don't (I didn't) then maybe you can have the big under bonnet fire that I did....

[Bowtracer]

I just did the oil lines on my disco. 80 bucks did both!!! Find a heavy equipment dealer ask them were they have there hydraulic hoses done. They cut the old hose off & replaced it with 3000psi hose fittings & chafe guard. I looked at stainless hose & thought I would end up with a small fortune in fittings. I would have had to convert steel to aluminum then the hose. PLUS, the stainless looks good for around a year or so & it traps salt mud oil ect. It does rot!
Peter