Fuel pump relay 95 D90SW

[alaskajgg]

Thanks to Doug for putting me on to this great D-90 site. I have a similar fuel pump Like Twisted90 Yousef had last year. I drove into garage getting rig prepped to drive from Alaska to CasaGrande AZ next week . Went to start it up . It ran 10 sec and died. No fuel pump running. Pulled filter, Back flushed no metal or contamination. Checked fuel pump fuse. it's Ok .WHERE IS THE FUEL PUMP RELAY??? checked inertia switch . it's ok.Checked wire connector on plug to inertia switch for voltage .Zero in key second position should have pump power for 15 seconds to prime injector rail. Checked it while in cranking. Zero voltage still.Looked at my def 90 computer shop man cd rom and nothing there matches my rig . Must not be NAS model. tWO SILVER BOSCH RELAYS under pax seat p/n oo32014112 have brown or orange stripe mark on them. Swapped them still no pump.Swapped out each yellow relay next to fuze box with a new one I had from my Disco. Still no pump power.Where is the fuel pump relay? Should be p/n AFU29130e per atlantic brit catalog and Of course the Anchorage Dealer 180 miles away doesn't have one and they want $65 for it if they did. I think I know what the AFU stands for .Please help me find this relay as I'm hoping it's that and not the pump.Have to be in AZ Oct 2 for a new job. Thanks Guys & Gals. Alaskajjg larry

Follow-up Post:

Sorry, trying to find out how to post this thread. Larry

[Mike Hippert]

Hey Larry, I belive on the 95s the Relay is under the passenger seat box. You may also want to check the wiring going to the pump, sometimes it gets caught on something and cut or the ground on the pump goes bad.

[rover4x4]

Yeah its in the passenger side seat box closet to the back of the truck and driversside. its a cube looking thing, I got mine at NAPA. That being said I had the same issue on my 95 and it was the relay. Upon furthur reading it sounds like you have already replaced your relays....

[TwisteD90]

If you swap the relays around the pump will not come on, you have to replace the bad one. I did this once and nothing so I ruled out the relay and replace both my filter and bump :rolleyes Just take one off and go to Napa and they should match it for you. Make sure to get the right one. Napa matched my relay but it killed my battery so I ended up getting a factory relay :(

[dante18]

Make sure the contact schematic and volts/amps on the new relay mathces the old. I had the same probs on my 94. Although different location I think it is the same part, 8 or 12 $ @ Nappa. I bought 2 replaced both and kept the good one for a spare. Also, check the wires where they actually connect to the pump LR used some crappy epoxy and it has been known to deteriorate.


Sorry Mike just realized you pointed that out already (wiring to pump).

[alaskajgg]

Thanks guys , My Napa here said they could'nt help me and it was a dealer item. I've got two relays on the way from atlantic british overnite I hope. Found rwo on e bay from Roversland for 12 bucks. Sure thank you all for the quick response . I'll check my wiring going into the tank first thing this am.Looks like I have to drop the skid cover at least to see it.I hope the relays do the trick, not looking forward to dropping the tank.Do any of you know if an access hole is ever put in the rear floor to pull the pumps without dropping the tank?

[BarryO]

Do any of you know if an access hole is ever put in the rear floor to pull the pumps without dropping the tank?

Not in the '97's; don't know about the '95's.

BTW, I had fuel pump problems because the wiring was pinched between the gas tank and the chassis; 'something to check.

Note also different model years use different configuration of fuel pump relays, so if your CD rom is for a different year, things might not match up. In my '97, the relay is in the engine compartment, behind the ECU on the right side, in in a box with another relay (you'd have to replace the box).

www.alldata.com should have wiring diagrams.

[Mike Hippert]

I think alldata only covers OBD2 stuff so only 97 and newer vehicles. I don't have any door in mine, and I havn't ever seen one in a 90, but some one may have cut one?

[BarryO]

You can buy a one-vehicle "DIY" subscriptions to alldata for $24.95. That what I did for my '97 to get the wiring diagrams, since the CD-ROM I have is for the UK model and the wiring for the NAS model is slightly different. You also get access to the text of all TSB's, etc. They should have the '95 MY as well.

[cgalpin]

If you have not tried to removed the skid yet, I urge you to exhaust all other options first - the bolts are prone to break and it's a bear to tap them out. Don't ask me how I know.

charles

[rover4x4]

yeah just use ample amounts of PB blaster. I had no issues when I removed my gas tank skid..

[cgalpin]

I hit mine twice a day for a week prior.... Methinks you got lucky :)

[Troys]

Charles;

I sprayed mine for weeks and still three of the bolts broke.

Not to hijack the tread....but where exactly is South Riding, VA?

Troy
Roanoke, VA

[cgalpin]

A few miles east of Rt28 on Rt50. Know where Chantilly is?

charles

[rover4x4]

O yes I was lucky....

[alaskajgg]

My relays should be here today sometime FEDEX. I checked my wire harness the best I could without dropping the tank yet. No pinched or damaged area in the loom that I could see or feel with all the sand and gravel falling in my eyes and head. I'll start soaking down the skid mount bolts with kroil and rapping them good. My tank is full Haven't seen a drain plug yet ,must be under the skid plate.I'll let you know what happens with the two new relays I'll put in under my pax seat. Larry

[BarryO]

I don't think there is a drain plug. The manual says to siphon it out.

Regarding the bolts, the threads on most of them are accessible. If you can clean the dirt and loose rust off of these threads, and get some PB or equivalent on them, they should be OK. It's when grit gets drawn into the threads that people have the most problems.

Unfortunately, the threads on the back two are not accessible; I broke one, and came close, I think, to breaking the other. Then broke the Easy-Out: it was alot of fun (not). Maybe you can try to get some compressed air in there to blow the dirt away. 'should make quite a mess.

[Troys]

Charles;

Got it! I knew I had seen that. I am getting ready to begin two projects. One in Gainesville and one in Manassas. I have been spending a little time up that way. They will both be in full swing by the end of the year. Perhaps we'll hook up and talk shop?

Troy

[cgalpin]

Well, you can spray pb blaster on the threads of the side ones, but I don't think there is enough access to them to clean them off (not until you get the skid out :) ) I broke both the rear bolts, and am still in the process of trying to tap out the threads. Sucks to be me.

Troy, send me an email when you start coming this way more often and we can do lunch or something.

charles *at* galpin -dot- org


charles

[TwisteD90]

Lawrence, no NAS D90 has the access panel. However, if you drop the tank you might as well remove the carpet in the back and make your own access panel. That's what I did anyway, and when I had to work on my fuel pump it was so easy.

[alaskajgg]

Hi Guys, I got the relays today from FEDEX and I'm sorry to say I still can't get the pump to run. I checked power at the fuel pump fuse and it's good . It works just like it's supposed to. With key in second notch it gives voltage for about 15 seconds and then when you crank engine you get constant voltage. I then pulled the plug at the inertia switch and it reads the same way. This is the last place before the pump. Now as a last resort before I have to do the dreaded fuel tank drop . I'm going to get a voltage check as close to the tank that I can get to in the wire.. If I still have juice ,like at the inertia switch then it must be tank drop time.I thank you all for the good suggestions and advice. Larry

Yousef thanks for the info on the access panel I'm almost tempted to start in with a hole saw without dropping the tank. Barry O. No wonder I couldn't find a drain hole. I'll get my Oklahoma credit card ready to siphon it out.Also have the compressor handy to blow all the sand and gravel away . I was amazed at how much that skid plate collected . This rig never has had any off roading since new . Just deep winter snow here in Alaska. That will change when we get it to Casa Grande. I just retired and am looking forward to more playing.

[cgalpin]

Larry, I completed this last night. With the right tools, it really isn't that bad. So do yourself a favor and go get a couple of things right now.

1. Cobalt drill bits. These drilled through the broken bolts like nothing. You'll need one or two smaller sizes to get started (depending on if you want to try an easy-out you may want two sizes) and then an 11/32" one for when you need to tap it out.

2. A 10mm 1.50 pitch tap

3. A nice center punch - the closer you get the hole you drill to center, the better off you are.

With the 11/32" bit, tapping them out was a breeze (use a little oil to lubricate the bits and tap). I had originally eyeballed the bit size without thinking to read the recommended size on the tap, and it was impossible to get it started. Once I used the rigth size (ok i only had 10/32" handy) it went very easily.

When (not if :) ) you break the rear bolts, you need to remove the stock bumper if you have it, to get clearance to work on removing them.

hth
charles

[alaskajgg]

Thanks Charles , Those tap sizes will really help me. All my stuff is SAE and haven't had much experiance with Metric. It always frustrates me trying to find the right size metric wrench or socket to fit since I have been an aircraft mechanic the last 40 yrs. I'm used to just looking at the nut or bolt and seeing that it's a 1/2 or 3/8ths etc. Does that torsion bar stay attached to the skid plate and just swivel down when you lower the plate ?I want to ask Yousef Twisted 90 ,if he has a digital camera he can take a photo of his access panel he made in the floor to get to the pump or give me some measurements from the side and back to fix the position of the hole cut out. Thanks Larry

[BarryO]

When (not if :) ) you break the rear bolts, you need to remove the stock bumper if you have it, to get clearance to work on removing them.

I didn't, I got aircraft (long) drill bits instead.

It helps to use a dremel to flatten the broken bolt before you try the center punch.

If you try an EasyOut and it breaks, you won't be able to drill it out. The hardened steel is too tough. I used a small carbide grinder on the Dremel to remove the broken EasyOut piece, and then just drilled the sucker out and followed up with a tap.

Before dropping the tank entirely, you can first drop it a couple of inches, reach in and unplug the fuel pump connector, and measure for voltage right at the pump itself. You don't need to disconnect any hoses to do this, so it's the first thing to try. It's alot easier to so this with the left rear tire removed. Once you loosen the skid plate bolts, you can slip a couple of tie-down straps between the tank and the skid plate, and attach them to the chassis to hold up the tank.

Follow-up Post:

Does that torsion bar stay attached to the skid plate and just swivel down when you lower the plate ?

No, undo the 4 bolts and swing it out of the way if you end up needing to remove the tank.

[alaskajgg]

Thanks Barry O, good info to know .I'm starting to defuel now.

Follow-up Post:

HOORAY! I have a running fuel pump and my Defender has is alive again ready to roll to Arizona. The last try before I statrted o drop the tank I tapped into the white /purp wire as close to the tank as I couild reach and got no voltage ,yet I had good power at the inertia switch plug in the same wire . I then tapped in back by the right tail light harness and still no juice there. I then grabbed a long piece of scrap wire jumpered from the inertia switch to the pump wire and the pump ran perfectly and the D-90 started right up.I have an open ,not to ground( or should I say earth on this beast ) somewhere from the inertia switch to the fuel tank. I'm just going to run a new wire and not try to find the break.This web site has been great and I'm glad to meet all you guys that have been valuable help. looking forward to spending more time on the other threads than just my problem . Thanks much Larry. I'd like about 10 smilely faces now. .

[Mike Hippert]

:grin Like this? congrats!

[rover4x4]

I am not sure if this was said but its not a"torsion" bar its a sway bar. If this has been said MY B

[alaskajgg]

Your right Philip ,at the time I was so stressed with my problem I couldn't even think of the proper name for that bar. larry

[Matt Klapmust]

Figured I would bring back this thread relating to fuel pump relays.

Need help accessing the fuel pump relay on my 94 D-90.

First question; where the heck is it located?

[PT94D90]

The fuel pump relay is on the passenger side, lower dash, behind a/c fascia (if you have a/c), just to the left of the ECM. It's a pain in the a** to get to if you have a/c.

[d901560]

I pretty sure it's the relay connected to the blue connector.

[bjenk]

Bought my relay from thepartsbin.com. $9.95. Thought it would help. LR wants way too much...

[rover4x4]

does anyone know the part number for the silver relay under the passenger seat. bosch XXXXXXX????? thanks.