View Full Version : 83 110 restored
usadventureracing
December 16th, 2011, 02:18 PM
Got the truck out of storage and back home. Ready to start the rebuild with the new gal chassiss.
jjstahl3
December 16th, 2011, 02:42 PM
where did you get your chassis from? mine might need one in the future - where are you getting parts from for the restoration?
I might be getting rid of my rear seats if you are looking for something let me know - or if you find some parts for early 110's let me know also
J
usadventureracing
December 16th, 2011, 03:51 PM
Got the chassis from RN on sale. I think they are still on sale.
I will be getting parts from RN and other locations.
My plan is to;
get new shocks and springs
Fix all issues with bulkhead
new headliner
remove rust on all various parts
clean up engine and paint
fix any unknown issues (those found during the dismantling phase).
jjstahl3
December 16th, 2011, 04:27 PM
I'll look at the frames there - I am going to have my headliner recovered locally they want 275 for all 3 pieces and installed - I think Im missing the vertical piece that fits above the rear door though
Ill be watching this restoration as my guess is we are in the same boat with a car of this age
bjf
December 16th, 2011, 04:43 PM
where did you get your chassis from? mine might need one in the future - where are you getting parts from for the restoration?
I might be getting rid of my rear seats if you are looking for something let me know - or if you find some parts for early 110's let me know also
J
Jay
Looks good
What size tires?
jjstahl3
December 16th, 2011, 05:12 PM
235/85 16 - I think they are basically brand new and the xzl tires on the wolf rims were from 1994 I switched them out and donated them to the classic
once I had the wheels off I saw how rusted the spring seats were so I ordered 2 from paddocks
jjstahl3
December 16th, 2011, 05:16 PM
are you going to switch to lhd?
usadventureracing
December 16th, 2011, 06:13 PM
Maybe, I have not decided yet. So far I like the rhd.
usadventureracing
December 17th, 2011, 06:36 PM
Started the rebuild, took all 5 doors off - broke and scratched nothing - good start.
jjstahl3
December 19th, 2011, 04:33 PM
what sort of trim do you have around the rear windows and above the rear door - I think Im missing something?
usadventureracing
December 19th, 2011, 05:48 PM
There were three pieces for the back, covered with some type of material. Mine were pretty ratty so I removed them awhile back. Looks like you are also missing the headliner.
One Ten
December 22nd, 2011, 02:49 PM
Let me know if you decide to sell those side step bar/running boards.
usadventureracing
December 23rd, 2011, 07:01 PM
I have made a little more progress. Floors are out and only 2 more bolts to remove and the tub should be free. Then on to the front. My goal is to have the body minus bulkhead off next week.
usadventureracing
December 23rd, 2011, 07:04 PM
Let me know if you decide to sell those side step bar/running boards.
As of now I do not plan to sell the side step bars. My wife would kill me she needs to use then to get into the truck
One Ten
December 23rd, 2011, 11:24 PM
As of now I do not plan to sell the side step bars. My wife would kill me she needs to use then to get into the truck
LOL. That's what I need them for! :)
usadventureracing
December 24th, 2011, 06:56 AM
Anyone know where to source a new middle row floor and new front driver and passenger floor. Also a battery tray.
usadventureracing
December 26th, 2011, 02:40 PM
I am stuck..........how many bolts are on the front side of the rear tub? I cannot seem to get it off.
Thanks
ArmyRover
December 26th, 2011, 04:31 PM
Brett if you need a hand wrenching let me know I live just down 31 in McHenry.
usadventureracing
December 26th, 2011, 08:13 PM
Brett if you need a hand wrenching let me know I live just down 31 in McHenry.
Anytime, thanks for the offer. I am off all week. I will send you my number via PM.
evilfij
December 27th, 2011, 01:16 PM
I am stuck..........how many bolts are on the front side of the rear tub? I cannot seem to get it off.
Thanks
There are two bolts through the floor, did you get those?
mikeslandrover
December 27th, 2011, 04:31 PM
Have you got the bolts for the side frames & seat belt mounts on the sloping part of the front of the rear tub?
usadventureracing
December 27th, 2011, 04:40 PM
Thanks guys, I figured it out. I just removed the T-post on one side but still have to do the other side.
Anyone know of a good source for T-posts?
323jamie
December 28th, 2011, 10:45 PM
what motor is in yours trying to do a reinstall 300tdi to a lt77
usadventureracing
December 29th, 2011, 04:34 PM
I have a v8 and will stay with that until I get more money and then swap out later on
usadventureracing
December 29th, 2011, 04:38 PM
Body is off. Messy work over.
I am going to sell my old frame, not that bad of shape- will need new rear crossmember and right hand side bulkhead support if any one is interested- looking for 500 or obo, if no offer will take it to scrap yard.
323jamie
December 30th, 2011, 12:07 AM
well I m replacing my engine and was admiring your steps of progress. Im considering going along the same path.
usadventureracing
January 6th, 2012, 02:10 PM
Engine is out and now it is time to start cleaning parts and transferring them over.
usadventureracing
January 6th, 2012, 02:12 PM
Engine
usadventureracing
January 6th, 2012, 02:53 PM
Bulkhead issues need to figure out how to fix
jjstahl3
January 6th, 2012, 11:51 PM
i think you need these
http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/004-ns-defender-footwell-repair-panels-4-p.asp
just got turned onto this site myself
KKilo23
January 12th, 2012, 07:38 PM
Rovers North carries replacement panels..
http://www.roversnorth.com/store/c-843-footwells.aspx
130Tdi
January 13th, 2012, 08:03 AM
doesn't look bad @ all. Lots of NAS 90's and 110's look far worse and they are 10+ years newer.
Footwell repair panels are universally available.
mikeslandrover
January 13th, 2012, 04:07 PM
Rovers North ones look closer to original.
Skeena river rover
January 13th, 2012, 04:44 PM
Very nice rebuilt. But why not going LHD! You did the hard part already. LHD is easier to drive and better resale value!
Are you staying with the red colour or a different one?
usadventureracing
January 13th, 2012, 05:07 PM
Thanks for info, how should I remove the floor panel on the bulkhead?
As for LHD what would I need and what would the cost be?
I an not painting the truck, going to leave it red as the paint is on good shape. I will be painting the inside and probably POR 15 the bulkhead in the engine bay.
Only items left on the old frame is the gas tank, muffler and a couple brackets.
I have moved the engine and drive train to the heated garage ( we just had are first snow of the season as it was 56 on wed and now it it 10, so i lucked out) as I will be starting to clean and assemble next week.
jjstahl3
January 13th, 2012, 09:01 PM
thanks to doug here is what you need for a LHD conversion
http://www.dividingcreekimports.com/DefenderLHDConversionHowto.html
jjstahl3
January 13th, 2012, 09:38 PM
this was good showing it actually happening a LHD conversion
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/64553-improving-and-repairing-my-110-travel-vehicle
jayz
January 15th, 2012, 10:33 PM
You must have a lot of time, and/or some good help! Looks great, can't wait to see how it turns out.
usadventureracing
January 18th, 2012, 04:43 PM
No not that much time, just vacation it has slowed down now. Will start cleaning the drive train on Friday.
My goal is to have it finished by the 4 th but we will see.
aka rover
January 19th, 2012, 02:18 AM
i think you need these
http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/004-ns-defender-footwell-repair-panels-4-p.asp
just got turned onto this site myself
Nice build you have here keep the pics comming along.
Wow great site those axle brackets would make short work of a axle conversion.
Thanks Ed
130Tdi
January 19th, 2012, 07:59 AM
don't know if he's changed his policy but the old guy who owns and operates yrm from his home wouldn't ship to the US last time I dealt with him.
boswalt
January 31st, 2012, 07:59 AM
I just bought some repair panels from him a few months ago. No problem on shipping but communication was spotty.
jjstahl3
January 31st, 2012, 10:56 AM
I just got some stuff from yrm metal and it was fast - the stuff got here in less then a week was shipped ups
now I need to see if i am going to restore my 110 or live with it
usadventureracing
February 3rd, 2012, 03:43 PM
Got some painting done. Time to assemble.
usadventureracing
February 10th, 2012, 12:27 PM
Some progress
Naplm00
February 10th, 2012, 02:51 PM
wow nice
usadventureracing
February 18th, 2012, 02:51 PM
Engine in
tomaco1
February 18th, 2012, 05:15 PM
If you still need the floor panels I have one from a td5 truck if that will work.
I think its the left hand side.
usadventureracing
February 20th, 2012, 10:57 AM
I think I am good with the Flooe panels, but thank you.
usadventureracing
February 26th, 2012, 04:47 PM
Does anyone have any advice/recommendation on cut the old footwells out? Should I cut them out?
Naplm00
February 26th, 2012, 05:35 PM
I used a sawzall and a bimetal extra short blade. Was so effective I went through my clutch line as well...LOL
Used a 4 in grinder to straighten it up ad migged them in
usadventureracing
February 26th, 2012, 05:44 PM
Thanks for the info, can I just rivet them in?
Naplm00
February 26th, 2012, 06:02 PM
Personally I wouldn't. When they are in they give the bulkhead a lot of strength, welding would br besg I think
usadventureracing
February 26th, 2012, 06:48 PM
Ok, thanks again for the info.
usadventureracing
February 28th, 2012, 05:36 PM
I have ordered new t-posts that are primed black and my truck is re. Is there a company that can mix the paint for spray cans? I thought I saw a thread awhile back for this.
grnrvrs
February 28th, 2012, 05:41 PM
You're going to dip those new t-posts, right? wink wink
usadventureracing
February 28th, 2012, 06:02 PM
Was not planning on it as the original ones lasted this long. Does anyone know of a galvanizer in the Chicago, as I will get a price quote to see what the cost would be.
grnrvrs
February 28th, 2012, 06:27 PM
Rumor has it that Chicagoland is liberal with the winter time salt. I would strongly suggest that you consider a galvy run with as many of the steel bits as you can muster. T-posts, bulkhead, cappings, door frames ... everything that is ever exposed to the elements. Not dipping them when they are already off the truck is false economy. There must be a few people in Chicagoland interested in getting stuff dipped.
usadventureracing
February 28th, 2012, 07:06 PM
Yes the salt sucks here and that is why the truck will be stored during the salt season.
Grover
February 29th, 2012, 12:47 PM
Engine in
Looks great! What kind of headers are you using? Did you have to modify them to clear for the steering?
Cheers...
usadventureracing
February 29th, 2012, 02:06 PM
No modification to the headers as they are stock to me, as they came with the truck when I got it.
usadventureracing
March 11th, 2012, 04:59 PM
Some pictures of my progress.
usadventureracing
March 11th, 2012, 05:36 PM
What type of
Brake fluid
Transmission fluid (99 auto trans from a discovery)
Power steering fluid
Should I get?
Thank you!
mikeslandrover
March 11th, 2012, 05:43 PM
What type of
Brake fluid
Transmission fluid (99 auto trans from a discovery)
Power steering fluid
Should I get?
Thank you!
Brake fluid - D.O.T 4 is what I use.
nathanwind
March 11th, 2012, 06:25 PM
What type of
Brake fluid
Transmission fluid (99 auto trans from a discovery)
Power steering fluid
Should I get?
Thank you!
Brake fluid = Castrol GT LMA (prob only from AB, not available anywhere else I've found).
Power Steering = ATF (auto tranny fluid, type IV I believe).
budzny
March 11th, 2012, 08:52 PM
Castrol brake fluid is also available at Autozone.
Sal
nathanwind
March 11th, 2012, 09:32 PM
Castrol brake fluid is also available at Autozone.
Sal
Are you sure? I checked Advance & AutoZone recently with nothing.
Naplm00
March 12th, 2012, 07:42 AM
I use generic brand Dot 4 for brake fluid, and cheap universal mercon IV for PS fluid
cgalpin
March 12th, 2012, 10:09 AM
ATF type IV for the auto tranny as well as the power steering.
budzny
March 12th, 2012, 04:00 PM
Bought a big bottle two months ago from Autozone. Also try Pepboys!
Sal
Are you sure? I checked Advance & AutoZone recently with nothing.
MUDSUX
March 12th, 2012, 04:07 PM
Does anyone have any advice/recommendation on cut the old footwells out? Should I cut them out?
I was in your shoes not too long ago. Looks like you are making great progress. I ended up cutting out all the cancer in my bulkhead with a sawzall and made my own footwells. Back then YRM would not ship to the US and RN did not have replacement panels. I would just buy from RN and be done with it. It only cost me $50 to make mine but they are no where as nice as the ones you can get now.
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showpost.php?p=202687&postcount=74
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showpost.php?p=203167&postcount=83
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showpost.php?p=205200&postcount=113
To install the footwells I made mine overlap the original bulkhead and I just glued them in with panel glue I got from home depot, as suggested by some members here, and bolted all along the edges. It is a very strong bond and I am not concerned. Welding would be better though.
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22036
While you have the engine and tranny out, why not redo the clutch?
usadventureracing
March 16th, 2012, 02:05 PM
Any recommendation on aligning the body? Meaning the t-posts, rear tub and bulkhead.
mikeslandrover
March 16th, 2012, 02:14 PM
Any recommendation on aligning the body? Meaning the t-posts, rear tub and bulkhead.
When I did mine nothing lined up at all until the roof went on. Bolt everything together reasonably loosely and then it'll pull together when the roof goes on. Having a little slack means you can adjust alignments, door gaps etc.
usadventureracing
March 16th, 2012, 07:17 PM
Thank you that is what I thought I was going to have to do. Going to install the front fenders on sat. Then start the wiring.
Does anyone know if I can buy a center cubby for an auto trans? If so do you have a recommendation.
Thanks
MUDSUX
March 16th, 2012, 09:17 PM
Any recommendation on aligning the body? Meaning the t-posts, rear tub and bulkhead.
I used the "string method". I'll try and find a link for you.
MUDSUX
March 17th, 2012, 07:19 AM
String method outlined by JimC for lining up the tub:
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showpost.php?p=225573&postcount=45
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showpost.php?p=229254&postcount=253
usadventureracing
March 21st, 2012, 06:47 PM
So this ATF should work for the trans and power steering?
cgalpin
March 21st, 2012, 08:01 PM
I've never used that but it should be fine.
evilfij
March 22nd, 2012, 09:58 AM
So this ATF should work for the trans and power steering?
I would NOT use synthetic fluid in a rover auto. It can clean out too much stuff and gum up the works. Get the cheap stuff.
usadventureracing
March 24th, 2012, 09:53 AM
Does anyone know what this for looks like main power goes in and then stops
usadventureracing
March 24th, 2012, 10:22 AM
I am getting no juice to the key
mikeslandrover
March 24th, 2012, 05:21 PM
That's the numbering for a relay other than that I don't know.
It's obviously a LUCAS part so the smoke may well have already come out rendering it useless.
usadventureracing
April 1st, 2012, 04:23 PM
Great day today....I got all rear lights working and the front turn signals done. The fuel pump is ready to be hooked up as soon as all lights are working, do not want the pump to run every time I turn the power on to check the lights.
Still need to get the headlights and small white lights in front hooked up. Also need to tuck all wiring neatly under the hood once I have everything worked out.
Question.... Do the small lights in front go on with the headlights or should I be able to turn those on by themselves?
Jpayne
April 1st, 2012, 04:35 PM
I think they should come on with the tail lights, at the first position on the light switch
usadventureracing
April 1st, 2012, 04:54 PM
Than you, that makes sense with the wiring configuration I have.
usadventureracing
April 6th, 2012, 04:07 PM
Got her running and lights done. Bringing her home on a trailer on Saturday.
usadventureracing
April 8th, 2012, 05:34 PM
Brought the truck he on saturday. Finished the rear wiring, it is tucked away neatly and installed the rear windows. Planning on installing the windshield and roof next weekend. Will them begin aligning the body.
usadventureracing
April 14th, 2012, 04:00 PM
Any recommendations on fixing this issue with the door alignment. Thank you!!
mikeslandrover
April 15th, 2012, 02:04 AM
Is the roof on? As I said in my PM that can sort a lot out, I spent days agonising over the door gaps only for it to sort itself out when the roof went on.
If pic 2 is of the front door to the B post try pulling the front bulkhead forward at the top ( slacken the bolts for the small brackets that mount to the footwell and main chassis rail or take one of he alli spacers out from between the footwell and bracket. Rear door - any scope for movement in the bolt holes? Support the bottom of the door with a jack.
Hope this helps. :)
usadventureracing
April 15th, 2012, 07:56 AM
Yes the roof is on. I took the spacers out this morning and seems to make a difference. Now just need to tighten the brackets on the frame rails. Thanks again.
dave_lucas
April 15th, 2012, 08:57 AM
Best advice I can give you is to leave everything somewhat loose till you have it all where you want it.
Start with the bulkhead and get it at 90 degrees from the frame and start adding other stuff from there using the string method. Go slow and try not to force anything it took me days of slightly moving little things around to get it right but it looks better that it did when it left the factory. FWIW having the fenders on might make it a little harder but not sure.
String method
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?p=225573&highlight=string#post225573
usadventureracing
April 16th, 2012, 07:54 PM
Any recommendation on where to get stainless bolts for the door hinges.
grnrvrs
April 16th, 2012, 08:08 PM
Got mine at http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/
Shipping took a while, but they warned me that the royal post/USPS was taking a looong time (about a month or so). Very pleased overall.
nathanwind
April 16th, 2012, 08:12 PM
A lot of folks like these guys (similar beveled head to the bolts as factory):
http://nakatanenga-tours.de/shop/category_Schrauben/Schrauben.html?sessid=gXYdQ8Yr4OmYmbHNK8ACeQkhWKhD l5AMqpWrn2QwPkxJRXqQMdEKu0pn3NhxoNRU&shop_param=cid%3D%26
But I went with Stig and like it:
http://www.a2stainless.co.uk/Defender-Series-3_B22EP.aspx
------ Follow up post added April 16th, 2012 09:13 PM ------
Ha that's funny....crossed posts with Paul, we both got them from Stig!
usadventureracing
April 17th, 2012, 06:09 PM
Ordered a set from Stig today.
usadventureracing
April 24th, 2012, 06:21 AM
Anyone know the size of the bolts that are needed for the top of the Front Radiator Panel to the wing. There are 2 bolts per side.
Naplm00
April 24th, 2012, 08:21 AM
If you are talking about the part that the slam latch is on. Mine were just M6 bolts, I replaced them with SS and new well nuts
usadventureracing
April 24th, 2012, 09:05 AM
it is actually the bolts that go through the front panel into the wings.......there is no nut as it looks threaded into the wings.
evilfij
April 24th, 2012, 09:49 AM
Pretty sure they are normal metric bolts.
usadventureracing
April 25th, 2012, 10:06 AM
I put the rear floor in and there are many areas that are not completely sealed. What have others used to seal to make it "water tight"?
cgalpin
April 25th, 2012, 10:20 AM
Do you have a picture? If you want to be able to remove the floor, something like the black 3M sealer strips might be best (i forget the exact brand name), otherwise seam sealer is more permanent.
evilfij
April 25th, 2012, 12:34 PM
I put the rear floor in and there are many areas that are not completely sealed. What have others used to seal to make it "water tight"?
Unpossible
Better to let it drain. Factory was thin foam tape on a NAS 110.
usadventureracing
April 25th, 2012, 07:00 PM
Thanks guys that is what I used but still some gaps
Here is how she looks now
usadventureracing
April 28th, 2012, 03:03 PM
My brake booster seems to be leaking around the edges will this stop after I bleed the brakes or does people think the seal has dried up because it was put of the truck so long ( abbott 4 months with no fluid in it? Can the seal be replaced?
mikeslandrover
April 29th, 2012, 03:00 PM
My brake booster seems to be leaking around the edges will this stop after I bleed the brakes or does people think the seal has dried up because it was put of the truck so long ( abbott 4 months with no fluid in it? Can the seal be replaced?
Depends if the bore has corroded or it's just the seal that's gone, with brakes I'd always err on the side of caution and replace the master cylinder if at all suspect.
usadventureracing
April 29th, 2012, 07:12 PM
Thank you for the info, I am going to purchase a new brake servo.
evilfij
April 30th, 2012, 03:59 PM
Booster aka servo or master cylinder?
usadventureracing
April 30th, 2012, 07:09 PM
This part in the picture, I believe it is the servo
cgalpin
April 30th, 2012, 07:14 PM
The servo/booster itself doesn't have any fluid in it. So if something is leaking it's coming from the master/reservoir. Whee is the leak?
usadventureracing
April 30th, 2012, 07:54 PM
Thanks for the info I cancelled my order. It looks to be leaking where the master goes into the servo.
Naplm00
May 1st, 2012, 09:24 AM
most likely the brake master is letting go. It is a easy 15min job with a power bleeder.
Just make sure you have some flare nut wrenches
usadventureracing
May 1st, 2012, 10:13 AM
most likely the brake master is letting go. It is a easy 15min job with a power bleeder.
Just make sure you have some flare nut wrenches
Are you talking about replacing the brake master is only 15 min. job?
Thanks
evilfij
May 1st, 2012, 10:17 AM
Maybe a bit longer, but replacing the MC is not hard if the lines come out of it.
usadventureracing
May 1st, 2012, 06:03 PM
Ok on to the next issue. For the life of me I cannot figure how to install the rear door bottom seal. There are two metal pieces and the seal, can anyone tell me how these all come together? Thanks!
mikeslandrover
May 2nd, 2012, 12:46 PM
Ok on to the next issue. For the life of me I cannot figure how to install the rear door bottom seal. There are two metal pieces and the seal, can anyone tell me how these all come together? Thanks!
Post a piccy of the bits!
usadventureracing
May 3rd, 2012, 04:54 PM
Here are pictures.
mikeslandrover
May 3rd, 2012, 04:59 PM
I'll snap a pic of mine this weekend.
evilfij
May 3rd, 2012, 05:12 PM
The metal sandwiches the rubber, but there are two versions so you might have the wrong seal if it is not lining up right.
usadventureracing
May 4th, 2012, 04:34 PM
That is what I thought, I am thinking the wrong seal also.
------ Follow up post added May 4th, 2012 04:36 PM ------
Installed the drive shafts and brake master. Everything is wired , just need to correctly install battery with cutoff switch.
------ Follow up post added May 4th, 2012 04:38 PM ------
Bleeding brakes tonight. Only now have to clean up and install the seats and she will be drive able. A new interior will be a work I'm progress later this year.
usadventureracing
May 12th, 2012, 11:41 AM
Tool her on her first trip around the block. Now on to the interior.
mikeslandrover
May 12th, 2012, 01:42 PM
Good job, fast too:)
draaronr
May 21st, 2012, 08:25 PM
nice job, looks awesome and man you are fast.
Skeena river rover
May 21st, 2012, 10:29 PM
Man that was a quick built. How much hours do you think you have spend on this built?
usadventureracing
May 22nd, 2012, 09:43 AM
I am not completely done, need to finish the interior....this will be gradual, but atleast I can finally drive her this summer and fall. I worked on her almost everynight in April and May after work and from Friday - Sunday almost every weekend for about 20 hours. I learned so much and fixed tons of issues with the truck.....it was a great learning experience.
A few years from now I want to convert to a manual trans and diesel. Need to start saving now.
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