I didn't want a 1984 110 restoration but I got one

[jjstahl3]

So after owning a 1995 D-90 for 2 years we as a family had outgrown it - we bought a 1964 Sankey trailer and fixed it up to pull the cooler camping stuck a roof top tent on it and traveled to Anza Borrego several times, to Escalante, UT and a few of the local mountains and camping here and there

http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32164&referrerid=5811

But we couldn't bring our 95 pound lab and the kids always looked crammed in the back of the 90 - Im not sure who wanted the 110 more me or them

So we sold our 90 that was in great shape - no issues what so ever and after months of waiting it was sold to a guy in CO - never heard back from him if he made the 2 day drive back to CO -

After looking at options for a 110 if was slim picking - if we wanted a 110 we would either have to pay through the nose for a NAS 93 110 or get a import - I went with the later since I was working with the 25.5 thousand budget from the sale of my other truck

So I bought a 1984 ROW 110 from another board member - I knew it had some rust but budget wise it fit the bill -

http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32989&referrerid=5811

Now as I dig into it a little after a little over a month of ownership I am scratching my head as what to do with it

I am replacing the rear spring seats as they are swiss cheese - but the frame has a bunch of patches and I feel that im staring a restoration in the face - sort of a stare down

What would you guys do as I dont want to put more into it then its going to be worth - we want a reliable camping rig in the end

Here is my current list of things I was going to tackle

1. Recover/Reinstall the headliner
2. New seat foams and maybe retrim kits and replace the rear row with highback seats
3. Mudd Dash kit (DONE)
4. Radio - speakers - cig lighter etc
5. Rear interior lighting
6. Dyno mat the floor
7. Rock Sliders
8. New springs and shocks - car sits low on the right
9. Winch bumper/winch/brush bar (Purchased and just waiting to get it here)
10. A/C (wife requirement)
11. LHD conversion? (raises value or not?)
12. SD Roll cage (L148)
13. address the cooling system as temp seems to fluctuate a little from half to three quarters
14. repair all 4 door frame
15. t posts need to go

any local guys want to lend some hands?

funny comment by my 7 year old daughter about either truck is -
Q: Ella you like the green truck or the blue one better?
A: I hate the flaps on the blue truck so I liked the green one better!

Flaps - we have bigger issues here then mud flaps!

[jjstahl3]

here is the rear spring seats -

have new britparts going in and frame being addressed

[tjfslaughter]

If I was local I would help out. Good Luck. It is amazing what waxoyl can do....

[the rover shop]

Had pretty much the same problems you do...Land Rover problems are like looking at icebergs....what you initially see is only the tip of it...ya gotta dive deeper to see the true awe inspiring majesty...LOL.. now take a deep breath and dive in..its worth it in the end..

[cgalpin]

I don't think anyone can help you answer the question without seeing the rest of the frame. What else needs patching?

If you are doing the repairs yourself and they are not too extensive I say patch away and live with it. Once you have gotten some use out of it, you will know if you want to do more with it or sell and go a different route, or even just live with it.

If you are paying someone else to patch, it could get expensive fast, but everything I just said still applies :)

[ipgregory]

It is amazing what waxoyl can Hide....

Fixed it for ya... :grin

[Jpayne]

Mine looked similar to yours. I put a plate all the way across that section of the frame and the welded the perch to it.

[Skeena river rover]

Do you want a show car or a useable camping rig? Just patch it up and enjoy it. Work slowly a thing at the time. Just drive it. When you kids are old enough swap it to a galvanized frame. Most 110 from that year will have the same problems.
I have not seen a mint mid 80 from the UK.... at all, that has not been restored yet.

Drive it and after your camping trip you know what to do!

[broadstone]

http://www.d-90.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=41590&d=1314971456 (http://www.d-90.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=41590&d=1314971456)Based on this photo from your link it appears that this replacement rear x-member has already had repairs (see the scuffed areas where the frame rails meet the rear x-mem). So if a replaced area of the chassis has already needed to be repaired I think you will possibly be chasing rust on the rest of the truck. As long as you do it yourself its not expensive just takes time.

Rust weighs heavy on my mind so I eliminated the anxiety. One truck is completly galvanised and the other has never seen rain, snow or mud. Helps me to sleep at night.

[evilfij]

I would do a frame if you can do it yourself. If not, patch away, but again, do it yourself. It takes a lot to make them unsafe and it is pretty easy to fix them, but difficult to fix them pretty.

I would budget a frame and t-pieces, but based on the pics, it does not look so bad as I would consider it terminal. It also looks like the rust is confined to the back of the frame (which is typical) so a patch job and some fresh waxoyl should get your through a lot of years in california where it won't get much worse away from the coast. They sell a crossmember that includes the spring perches and it is not that much more money than a normal one. Probably what I would do. Weld it in and plate the joints. Weekend's worth of work.

The other point I would make is that (and mike at ECR will call me out on this because I don't spend as much time alligning the doors as he does), but the t-pieces are a half day job to remove and replace and, if you galvanize them, they don't need paint and after a year the galvy will match the duller old stuff. Adds lots of value. AC I would wait until you decide to go LHD. If you are doing an LHD conversion, you ought to do the frame and galvanize the bulkhead while you are at it.

[jjstahl3]

Thanks everyone for the words of encouragement - I know that over time this will be a great car for my family - definitely not looking for a show car - I actually like the outside and age to the paint etc

I knew it had rust but I guess I am spoiled living in CA and my idea of rust is quite different then the UK view of rust

I realize a new frame would be great but not in the budget right now - Im going to patch what I can now and enjoy the truck but keep an eye on the frame

What happens if you get a new frame with the vin stamped on it? do you get to put the vin on the new frame?

[One Ten]

I feel your pain. I knew once I got mine that I wouldn't be happy till I stripped it all the way down to the frame and had it sandblasted before I did my welding repairs. Talk about rust! Would have loved to got a new galvy frame but, like you, it's not in the current budget. I plan on keeping mine for many years. The new frame is scheduled for 2015.

[jjstahl3]

here is the patch my fabricator put in

I think I am going to need to learn how to weld

[evilfij]

Amazingly nice looking work.

[jjstahl3]

Newest piece of metal on the truck!

[draaronr]

awesome its a labor of love, and you'll drink lots of post work beers.

[mikeslandrover]

My '84 had numerous holes in the rear 1/4 of the chassis, decided to replace due to the difficulty of welding across the top of the frame with the body on. If you're taking the body off to repair the chassis my thought was you may as well chuck a new chassis under there.
The D-90 Source > Projects & Build-up's > Truck Build-up's & Restores
New project start-up

[mikeslandrover]

here's the proper link to the thread.
http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3724

[jjstahl3]

water pump, new thermostat, radiator hoses going on today - sending out the radiator to be looked over

sliders and skid this week and meeting my previous owner in anza borrego next weekend to pick up the bumper brushguard

[o2batsea]

1. Recover/Reinstall the headliner
This is probably best done as part of a comprehensive roof refurb. You will have greater luck and ease with the top off on sawbucks than with it in place and working overhead. With the top at safe working level you can easily redo all the rubber seals as well.
When you take the liner out you will find that you might want to add sound deadening matting to the roof as well as new insulation. This will reduce the banging in your head while you drive...oh wait that's the kids and the dog...

[jjstahl3]

previous owner had already pulled the headliner so its out in my garage at the moment - have a local shop that will recover and reinstall for 275 - seems fair to me - just going to cut a couple holes in it first for a cb and lowrance antenna run some wiring for interior lights in the way back then have it done - was thinking about sound matting but I think I will just do the floor and skip the roof

I need a little noise to drown out the kids in the back sometimes!

[jjstahl3]

tear down in progress

[jayz]

DO THE ROOF!! You will be amazed at the difference it makes. Just go to the hardware store and get some HVAC duct insulation. It has adhesive on it already, just peel and stick with a little 3M spray for insurance. It is a cheap way to make a huge improvement. Plus it will stay warmer inside if you ever leave LA and go somewhere cold. God, I miss So Cal. I was talking to someone down there last week and it was like 80

[jjstahl3]

ill give anything a shot something like this

http://www.homedepot.com/Building-Materials-Heating-Venting-Cooling-Ducts-Duct-Insulation/h_d1/N-apygZ5yc1v/R-100028603/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

foam and foil?

[Jackie Treehorn]

DO THE ROOF!! You will be amazed at the difference it makes. Just go to the hardware store and get some HVAC duct insulation. It has adhesive on it already, just peel and stick with a little 3M spray for insurance. It is a cheap way to make a huge improvement. Plus it will stay warmer inside if you ever leave LA and go somewhere cold. God, I miss So Cal. I was talking to someone down there last week and it was like 80

I made this mistake when trying to insulate the trunk in my vintage BMW when money was tight.
Trust me, spend the extra money and buy some dynaliner from some seller on Amazon. HVAC duct insulation and tar-backed aluminum flashing is weak. That stuff will be sagging and no time and will probably effect your newly recovered headliner. The minute you start making compromises and using building materials for a vehicle it's the beginning of the end. Next thing you know you'll be justifying the use of 10/2 Romex for winch leads!

Take the time to re-seal the roof seams if possible, but definately use the right material for the insulation.

[jjstahl3]

point taken - I bought a few boxes of dyna mat and Ill see how much I might need to cover it

J

[bjf]

http://www.flickr.com/photos/barryrides/4261896984/in/set-72157613242026920

[Jackie Treehorn]

point taken - I bought a few boxes of dyna mat and Ill see how much I might need to cover it

J

I always get Dynamat and Dynaliner confused. I mean the stuff in Barry's photo, not the foam padding.
Get the pro-pack/extreme or whatever they call it, it should cover the entire roof. I paid $127 delivered. 9 sheets/36 Sq. Ft.

[jjstahl3]

i guess the question to barry is could you notice a difference before and after adding it? heat or noise related

[bjf]

Not really. I notice it more when I did the floor and doors.

[jjstahl3]

radiator off to get checked out

[Jackie Treehorn]

radiator off to get checked out

FWIW, I always found the 200Tdi to appear to run hot. At least by the temperture gauge. Like 3/4 on the dial, when you'd think that 1/2 would be normal. It alarmed me as well so I asked around and found that these gauges are far from accurate (especially if an engine swap had been done). Have somebody do a infrared or one of those sophisticated thermometers while at operating temp to obtain a baseline.
THey run a 190 thermostat, so that's on the hot side compared to most v8s running 180.

[jjstahl3]

my mechanic said the pump was leaking when they changed the oil so I got a pump and figured I would replace the temp sending unit and they sent out the radiator for free to have it inspected so if it all checks out ok Im going to get a vdo gauge just to check and be done with it - mechanically that should have it covered and she runs good but just want to have someone sign off on the cooling so we can pull some long trips in it - then its just the cosmetic stuff that I can do myself

they might find 4 inches of english earth in that radiator for all I know!

[jjstahl3]

My truck must have had a snorkel at some point since all the body holes were there so I got one just for the fun of it

Also the radiator was plugged had that recored and just drove it for a while and cooling seems steady so going to drive it a little more this afternoon but I think cooling can be checked off the list

[Jackie Treehorn]

Looking good!

[SURVEYOR]

Jay, I see you mounted a Safari Snorkel. Do you have the name of a US vendor?

thanks

[jjstahl3]

i was ordering other parts from the uk and I got mine here

http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/jc1100_safari_raised_air_intake_snorkel_kit_defend er_2_5_turbo_diesel200tdi.php

j

[130Tdi]

Jay, I see you mounted a Safari Snorkel. Do you have the name of a US vendor?

thanks

Welcome to the board Dennis !

[jjstahl3]

might email this guy for a snorkel in the us


http://www.d-90.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35621&referrerid=5811

[SURVEYOR]

Thanks for the heads up. I just emailed him

[grnrvrs]

Or, if you want a pre-cleaner set up:

http://www.pablanchard.co.uk/spares.asp

[jjstahl3]

spent the weekend in joshua tree np put 250 miles on the truck no cooling issues :)

Picked up a bumper winch and brush bar from the west coast rover railroad

[Skeena river rover]

So now you drive and have fun with it you start linking it more? Or do you still miss you 90? Nice weather! We just have a ton of snow!

[jjstahl3]

So now you drive and have fun with it you start linking it more? Or do you still miss you 90? Nice weather! We just have a ton of snow!

I have to say I think its growing on me - we got there friday night and it was windy so we rolled out our sleeping bags in the back of the truck and slept well - could not have done that in the 90

I think the long drive built some confidence in the truck and with the cooling sorted I think we can safely check that off the list

I am going to be adding a pile of parts I have in my garage this weekend

Still trying to decide what suspension to go with as I think thats the next change that will need to be made

j

[Mybluett]

I am going to be adding a pile of parts I have in my garage this weekend

Still trying to decide what suspension to go with as I think thats the next change that will need to be made

j

Can I watch? My truck delivery is scheduled between 7am and 9am tomorrow morning...

[jjstahl3]

the plan is to goto cars and coffee then over to my buddies shop to put stuff on Saturday - ill let you know if it changes

[mikeslandrover]

Still trying to decide what suspension to go with as I think thats the next change that will need to be made

j

I've got 90 rear springs on the front & 130 outer rear springs on the rear. Gives +1" lift, no issues with steering geometry. No scary body roll on corners. It's apparently 1 ton spec. I'm really pleased with the set-up.

[Jackie Treehorn]

Still trying to decide what suspension to go with as I think thats the next change that will need to be made

j

Truck looks good Jay,
FWIW, my current 110 has HD springs on both front/rear (don't know the brand, but they're powder-coated yellow, so maybe Pro Comp?) with double shocks in the rear.

The double shocks take care of a lot of sway on the highway and the stiff springs really make up for the fact we have no sway bays (it actually handles much tighter on the roads - I realize that sounds silly for a 110, but it really does) - However, unless you're traveling with a load most of the times, the HD suspension is pretty tough on your back on long trips. Just saying, there are pros-n-cons to both.

I always found that your 110 soaked up the off-road terrain nicely, but was a little "tippy" on the highway. Partly because of the spinaker you have mounted on your roof, but also because no sway bays.

Anyway, glad to see it rolling in the desert and keep the pictures coming.
-A

[gchinsr]

I've got 90 rear springs on the front & 130 outer rear springs on the rear. Gives +1" lift, no issues with steering geometry. No scary body roll on corners. It's apparently 1 ton spec. I'm really pleased with the set-up.
That's what St Johns had on my Ambulance, along with OEM rubber bushings, it handles great, and is very comfortable driving. It absorbs impacts great, and doesn't ever feel harsh. I just ordered a new set, but also having the rear inner helper sping, and a dual rear shock in the Vee configuration to handle the extra weight of the camper conversion. not a bad choice if you don't need extra lift.

[jjstahl3]

New front and rear suspension

[mikeslandrover]

New front and rear suspension

Details!!!:)

[jjstahl3]

Brush bar bumper winch check

[bjf]

mantec and camel? Awesome

[jjstahl3]

correct on both with a husky super heavy winch - still need to wire the winch but getting some stuff off the garage floor onto the truck - carving a path through the garage

checking a few thinks off my to do list

------ Follow up post added February 18th, 2012 10:10 PM ------

Details!!!:)

got a kit from a board member - tuff dog? I guess they are big in australia and it leveled everything out to around 37 inches floor to wheel arch - lifting the front right 2 inches it was under 35 inches or so and now everything sits level

cant say much about the ride as I just went home from the shop and they seem firm but not to harsh still some amount of body roll but leveling the ride was my first goal

[mgreenspan]

What size tires are you running? And that is 2inches of lift? I've got 2inch ome springs waiting but not sure about bigger than 7.50s on tires.

[jjstahl3]

here we are out in the anza borrego desert - this is right before my transfer case decided it no longer liked high or low :( thanks AAA for the tow

[jjstahl3]

So in an effort to get a stereo in the 110 I replaced the door latches with newer style ones (roversdownsouth) and got a set of nas door cards (roverdude) and repairs all the cracks reinforced the mounting holes and installed the speakers - I removed all the old linkage for the old handles. I got he stereo in the mudd uk pod along with some switches to run some aux lighting when I get around to it

I got the rear ladder mounted along wit some fuel and water cans

got my t-case looked at and it was just linkage so thats the good news

[rijosho]

You were spotted over on Expedition Portal. I hadn't seen your new camper before so didn't recognize it at first.

[jjstahl3]

yeah went hard sided teardrop for the winds in the desert and have been sleeping in the back of the 110!

yep thats me - over on expo

[UnfrozenCaveman]

Yeah, that was my genius brother in the fancy pants Rangie taking your picture at the Toys-r-Us :)

Great looking rig!


KAA

[aclarke]

My truck must have had a snorkel at some point since all the body holes were there so I got one just for the fun of it

Good call. I did a few thousand $$ in damage to my 200tdi thanks to not having a snorkel, some bad judgement, and some even worse luck. I have a snorkel now...

- Andrew.

[Dave Thiessen]

Jay, I think your 84 looks like it has come a long way from when you started the post. I live down in SD and have a 85 110 that i'm also trying to figure out with the aim of spending more time overlanding in the desert. I'll post some pictures later. It seems like I'm always driving the truck on guard wondering what it's about to throw at me. Thankfully my frame is in good shape, but doors are in serious need of repair and i've got a few small rotted parts on the bulkhead.

[jjstahl3]

Well I got the sill pieces and figured it was time to fix what I think will be the rest of the frame issues for as long as I own the truck - here is the first sill piece removed - I wish I could say I was doing the work my self but I have a great fabricator that I trust and he enjoys taking my money so its a win win

once this is done the only "rust" that will be left will be the door frames that might get fixed down the road - I put my newer door cards on and they cover the rust well so I wont get tetnis from the doors at least

[jjstahl3]

Jay, I think your 84 looks like it has come a long way from when you started the post. I live down in SD and have a 85 110 that i'm also trying to figure out with the aim of spending more time overlanding in the desert. I'll post some pictures later. It seems like I'm always driving the truck on guard wondering what it's about to throw at me. Thankfully my frame is in good shape, but doors are in serious need of repair and i've got a few small rotted parts on the bulkhead.

Cool look forward to seeing it - you should make the trip up for cars and coffee in irvine one morning

[bjf]

So did you remove those seals from the floors like we discussed? Was the sill gone under it?

[jjstahl3]

yeah I pulled those off the next day - I would say the piece of metal that was there for the seal was gone but the sill was in fair shape - I figured long term I would be happier with it replaced - I had already made the investment in the part so putting it on was the next logical step - maybe when im done I can sell it for 40,000

Ill get some picture up tomorrow when I go empty my check book!

[Jackie Treehorn]

Truck looks better every time.
the brush bar and winch look like they belong there.

It's hard to restrain from doing everything at once. I've been picking one project every quarter or so and burning through my budget at a controlled rate. Doing as much as you can yourself certaintly helps. I've got to do my headliner next, followed by dual batteries, upgraded alternator and relay-fired 55/65watt headlight upgrade.

What happened with the T-case?

BTW, who cares what it's worth when you're done (within reason). I mean this is a hobby and if you're all in for $40,000 by the time you're done but you have EXACTLY what you want....then who cares? Even if the ports are flooded with 25-year-old Defenders for the next several years and the US market is flooded with imported ROW Defenders they will always need work and restoration so if yours is solid it will always be worth a premium.

Just like the rest of us, I'm always looking at ROW trucks for sale on eBay, UK sites, etc., and it is rare to find one that has remained pretty original (albeit needing some rust abatement) like yours. The look is just right IMO.

Depending upon how inconvenienced you are by the RHD factor, that is the only thing that I'd probably put on the wish list to change my truck (or yours).

[jjstahl3]

here are a few more photos the sill in the back was gone all the way thru new c pillar a pile of rust under the car

[jjstahl3]

got the truck back and I need to get a couple other body pieces from yrm metal solutions but the majority of the rust is gone

[bjf]

Looks good. What else do you need?

[jjstahl3]

the mid cross member - it looks like swiss cheese - then im done well other then the door frames but thats the end of the rust as far as I can tell - going to get my radio hooked up this week and a few aux lights - throw a new battery in there and might go out to overland expo next weekend you game to make the drive?

[bjf]

Where is it?

[jjstahl3]

Flagstaff az I would rather caravan out there just in case otherwise I might have to take our vw