Temperature Gague false reading trick?

[arbik]

Hello All,

I found this on the East Coast Rovers website, under the D110 info.
Now, I know its for D110s, but mine behaives in the same way...
does anyone know anything about this?
Does this apply to the D90s too?

"The engine temperature gauge in your 110 is not telling you the truth. This is important because most Rover V8s will last a good long time, unless they develop coolant or overheating issues, so you need to know your coolant temperature. Behind the dash of every NAS Defender 110 is what is called a "signal conditioner" or "stabilizer." It is Land Rover part #AMR2401. What this little bundle of computer parts wrapped in electrical tape does is alter the signal coming from the temperature sender in the engine before it reaches the coolant gauge on the dash. Basically it tricks the signal to read lower on the gauge you see. We have done tests with this device in place (that all NAS 110s have unless we have removed it) where we have purposely overheated the engine (Don't worry the engine was coming out anyway). During these test with the engine coolant temperature well over 220 degrees (well above normal and into the damage zone) the dash mounted gauge would still read normal. Even at over 250 degrees (death for a Rover V8) the dash gauge still reads normal. In fact under no conditions could we get the coolant temperature gauge to go above the half way mark (Normal). The "stabilizer" prevents you from seeing your engines true engine temperature. In our customer's 110s we remove this device so that they can see the true engine temperatures.

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html

Just wondering if the reason for my temperature gague always being in the middle, is this little gadget.

-arbi

[Hans]

I haven't pulled my dash apart to look for that gizmo, but I have noticed my temp go above the mid-point a few times. The temp spikes a bit as the thermostat opens. But other than that, it goes to the middle and stays there rock solid.

I did compare the wiring diagrams for a NAS D-90 and D-110, and the wiring diagram for the 110 shows the conditioner, but the 90 diagram does not.My Defender # is 272, so it's among the earliest NAS trucks.

-Hans

[Trigger]

I installed some new offroad lights on my ARB this past week. Normally my temp would never stray above the exact middle. This past weekend after some longer distance freeway driving I noticed it drifted to the right about 1-2 degrees from vertical. The lights are blocking just enough air to make the needle bump up a bit but nothing major and it didn't keep rising so I don't worry about it.

[Bowtracer]

I belive this to be only on 110's

[arbik]

oh ok.
Just wanted to make sure..we didnt have the same "gizzmo" to worry about.
Thanks for the info guys.

-arbi

[Bowtracer]

If it would help anyone I have a picture of the offending part & its local.

[Mike Hippert]

That would be cool to see

[mattarm]

I would like to see it as I plan to remove it soon. Due to a severe distraction, I left my 110 running in the drive for, say, 40 minutes. It was clearly hot as I had coolant pouring from the overflow and there was plenty of heat radiating from the engine bay. The stock temp guauge was spot on the "normal" location where it always reads once warmed up.

[Hans]

Somebody, somewhere, had a picture of the damned thing on a website. IIRC it's a small thing, wrapped up with the gauge wiring in the dash. I'll see if I can find it.

-Hans

[Bowtracer]

Here are pic's nafter I untaped & rewired. The rewire is easy but one wire is short.

[artm]

Since the behavior of the D90 gauge is identical it wouldn't surprise me if it is conditioned. Certainly it is not the sender and the gauge is a regular VDO so there must be something in between.

Same for my Tdi - never goes past midpoint.

I would think this is prime turf for a lawsuit.

[Trigger]

Since the behavior of the D90 gauge is identical it wouldn't surprise me if it is conditioned. Certainly it is not the sender and the gauge is a regular VDO so there must be something in between.

Same for my Tdi - never goes past midpoint.

I would think this is prime turf for a lawsuit.

After last weekend's overheating issues I can say for sure that mine doesn't have one. My fan clutch went out and the temp would slowly creep up if I wasn't a cruising speed getting air across the radiator. I'm also pretty confident that the P.O. would not have removed such a thing as the vehicle was basically bone-stock when I bought it. I looked for this mystery conditioner and found nothing while I was wiring up some new offroad lights last week too.

[TexasDefender11]

I have attached the circuit diagram for the coolant temp gauge circuit.
How do I remove the signal conditoner or wire around it?
I am having trouble following Bowtracer's photos.

Thanks
T.J.

[Bowtracer]

wt2 unplug the wires
its wrapped up with tape behind the tach

[ECR]

Singal Conditioner:

It is ONLY on NAS 110s. It is not on any NAS D90

It limits the singal so that you never see how hot the engine really is.

You can't just remove it (I need to update the site in that regard) that will give you false hot readings.
You need to either replace the gauge/ sender set up with a VDO or other, or replace both the guage and sender with the pieces from a 1994 D90. I'll find those part #s. The parts books are wrong on the part #s to make it work.

It is behind the NAS 110 dash just behind the tach, floating loose wrapped in electrical tape.

Green wire powers the gauge, green and blue is to the sender. The signal condition is just looped in. Remove it, but as stated, one wire is very short. make a jumper to make it easier.

[pendy]

It is my understanding that on the 94 and newer trucks the false normal spot is conditioned inside the gauge itself. So a higher then normal reading is actually 210-220 or higher. I have some experience with this trying to tame the tempurature on some past diesel conversions. I have run both a VDO aftermarket with numbered reading alongside a factory vdo with dual sensors and witnessed this. I should take one apart and we can all disect it together.

JP

[ECR]

It is my understanding that on the 94 and newer trucks the false normal spot is conditioned inside the gauge itself. So a higher then normal reading is actually 210-220 or higher. I have some experience with this trying to tame the tempurature on some past diesel conversions. I have run both a VDO aftermarket with numbered reading alongside a factory vdo with dual sensors and witnessed this. I should take one apart and we can all disect it together.

JP


The issue we found with Tdi set ups D90 is that you have to run the black temp sender. Most 300 tdi engines come through with a green sender and it is the wrong value for the NAS temp gauge.
Parts books (Euro ones) show the same part # gauge as an NAS 90 has mated to the balck sender. Once we installed that set up there have been no temp gauge issues. Run one in my own 90 and checked it in all conditions (Moab in the summer to Maine in the winter) with an infra-red tester and it was spot on.

Follow-up Post:

OK, I just gutted an 1994-1995 NAS D90 temp gauge. nothing odd inside, no signal conditioner, just normal gauge guts, same as an NAS110 guage I just gutted.

300 Tdi in an 1993-1995 NAS Defender. use a AMR3321 black sending unit mated to a AMR2631 gauge. Exact same set up as a Euro D90/110. Checked this against factory Tdi cars we service (the illegal type).

NAS 110s come with a AMR2070 gauge
1994-1995 NAS D90s come with a AMR2631 gauge

To cure (with factory parts) an NAS 110 temp gauge issue use the PRC7918 "white" sender that most NAS 110 have in them and mate that to a AMR2631 gauge and remove the signal conditioner.
Did this a few years ago on some 110s and put them through the ringer including up to 120 degrees at idle in our paint bake booth and the gauge told the truth as per manual checks with an infra-red hand held.

Hope that helps.
Man is to hot here!!

[Bowtracer]

Thanks Mike! Thats great info...............

[surf110]

If I replace with a VDO set up, which sender should I use? There are a few temp gauges with different OHM ranges available.

[artm]

It is my understanding that on the 94 and newer trucks the false normal spot is conditioned inside the gauge itself. So a higher then normal reading is actually 210-220 or higher.


The middle setting in a stock 97 gauge can be at 220. and this is considered normal - assuming so since the middle setting is where the gauge normally is. So, you consider 210 hgher than normal?

[Hans]

220 is definitely above normal operating temperature. After swapping to an Autometer sender and gauge where I have actual numbers on it, the engine stays at a pretty solid 190 in the summer...which matches the 190 thermostat. In the winter, it actually operates somewhat lower at times and fluctuates between 165 or so and 185.

This past week, with temp and humidity close to 100, I have seen about a 5 degree increase in operating temperature, but never past 195 degrees.

-Hans

[artm]

If LR designated the "middle" range as normal then surely they consider 220 normal. I don't like to see it that high but others have and without problems.

What's your setup? Electric fans? Radiator age?

[Hans]

I think mine is still the original radiator, and I currently run the flex-a-lite twin fans. When I had the original guage, normal operating was right in the middle.

-Hans

[ECR]

I've never seen a working factory gauge say 210 is anywhere near "normal". We test all the new engines with an hand held infra-red unit and double check the gauge is working. If you get near 220 you are into the red on a factory working 1997 temp guage (or 195 for that matter).
The V8s should run in to 190-to just under 200 range otherwise you need to start fixing stuff.

My own 95 D90 has a weak clutch fan right now. In traffic it will creep up. As it starts to creep I'm hitting 200. Then when I am getting concerned it is 210. So it does read the engine correctly... it is telling me exactly what the engine is doing.

[pendy]

Mike do you have a 97' gauge to open up and check?

Yes black sender for the defender and green for the discovery. 1/8" pipe style senders. 4.0 V8 and 300 tdi

190 to 200's is normal in my mind as well.

JP

[artm]

I connected an OBD2 laptop analyzer to my 97:

1. software shows temps of 210-225 (off coolant sensor)
2. gauge shows middle to slightly past (off gauge sender)
3. infra-red at thremo housing agrees with coolant sensor

Again, others have reported temps of 220 in the normal range. Again, I don't like that.

Now, I will say that lately I've been losing coolant - about 4 cups per run. Could be from a visible leak in the front housing (doubt it, have had that for a long while with minimal coolant loss over time), could be from HD (no gasses in coolant though). Also got the gauge 1/2 past middle when this problem was first noticed.

I never installed a real gauge in this truck so perhaps I've suffered some damage.

Assuming a HD job is done, plan then is to fit electrics as well as two AC fans. Also, will rewire so that AC fans turn on at a chosen coolant temp or immediately when AC switch is on.

[ECR]

I'll check, doubt it though. I have tons of 110 stuff, some 94-95 stuff and just a little 97 stuff as the 97 can retain the same gauges when we convert them to Tdi so I don't have take outs around.

Why were you getting false hot readings on a Tdi with the right gauge and sender? I've run mine to the floor for hours across the mid-west is stinking hot weather and it never comes off a couple degrees to the right of vertical (about 180 degrees).

The only time I have ever experienced a Tdi getting hot was when the muffler was wrong and too much back pressure was causing the EGTs to rise and then heat up the engine. Once the pipes went free flow haven't seen a cooling issue since.

What did you find??

Follow-up Post:

OK I found a '97 temp gauge and I'll gut it after lunch.

One question though...
What is the big deal about switch to a VDO gauge when the factory gauges are made by VDO anyway?
I agree #s are nice, but...

The 97 D90 gauge is a VDO part # 02 320 903

[Hans]

The big deal for me is visibility. The numbers are nice, being able to see them at night is even nicer.

-Hans

[artm]

Why were you getting false hot readings on a Tdi ...

One question though...
What is the big deal about switch to a VDO gauge when the factory gauges are made by VDO anyway?
I agree #s are nice, but..


Mike, Are you ttalking to me? I've got a V8.

I agree with the need for VDO swap. If you want numbers just get some decals and slap them on. For me, the simple look of the stock gauges can't be beat.

As for night visibility, I've said it before - mine are super bright in the high setting, I always keep them on low and they're fine.

[ECR]

Mike, Are you ttalking to me? I've got a V8.

I agree with the need for VDO swap. If you want numbers just get some decals and slap them on. For me, the simple look of the stock gauges can't be beat.

As for night visibility, I've said it before - mine are super bright in the high setting, I always keep them on low and they're fine.

No, it was just a general question. I fully agree #s are great, but I just didn't want folks swapping out to a VDO gauge thinking they were getting "something better" when they would be removing a VDO gauge to install a VDO gauge.

Follow-up Post:

I gutted the 97 gauge and a standard VDO water temp gauge # 310 220 003

There is one extra diode in the Rover gauge, but without having an electronics degree I can't really say what it does or why.

[artm]

As the 97 gauge appears to exhibit conditioning, why not connect it to a standard VDO sender (suitable for this standard VDO gauge) and see how it reacts? If it works, there's no reason - for me at least - to swap gauges.

[junkyddog11]

OK I found a '97 temp gauge and I'll gut it after lunch.


I'm glad you quit f*@^^#*(?) around on the internet long enough to eat lunch........hehehe

[ECR]

:) :) :)

with over 300 emails a day to answer it seems all I do these days is f around on the net :(

[pendy]

Mike not trying to pick a fight here. But if I remember correctly the young man Noah who brought your truck was having high tempurature problems while driving through my part of the country. I tried to convince him to install a gauge with numbers which I believe he did at some point in New Mexico.

And if I remember correctly his response to the high tempurature was to drive at a slower speed. It is the highway that will bring the tempuratures up on a defender 300 tdi/2.8 TGV to dangerous levels. I build special radiators and remote mount the oil cooler in response to these issues. Since most people are not satisfied to slow down to 60 mph while crossing 400-500 miles of Kansas plains. And some of my customers aspire to run at 80 mph or more. So the tempurature issue is something I have spent a lot of time with.

I agree a free flow exhaust is important. All my installations feature this with some running straight tube. And others 3" up to a resonator instead of muffler. EGT gauge and tracking under full load with tuning to match safe engine operation is a must. Often a larger intercooler is needed. We have even experimented with water injection on a heavy D110.

As I said when working with a 97' D90 with a tempurature issue I hooked a standard VDO gauge in parallel with a factory gauge. 2 gauges with their own sending units. The factory gauge hung on to the normal reading while the standard gauge showed in excess of 210. That was the end of the factory gauges in my mind to track tempuratures.

Some of the purest types might like to retain the factory gauges for vainitys sake. So it might be nice to verify my theory and find a 'fix' for the issue that I believe is present. Beyond that I do not really care for LR gauges with their large sweep for normal.

JP


I'll check, doubt it though. I have tons of 110 stuff, some 94-95 stuff and just a little 97 stuff as the 97 can retain the same gauges when we convert them to Tdi so I don't have take outs around.

Why were you getting false hot readings on a Tdi with the right gauge and sender? I've run mine to the floor for hours across the mid-west is stinking hot weather and it never comes off a couple degrees to the right of vertical (about 180 degrees).

The only time I have ever experienced a Tdi getting hot was when the muffler was wrong and too much back pressure was causing the EGTs to rise and then heat up the engine. Once the pipes went free flow haven't seen a cooling issue since.

What did you find??

Follow-up Post:

OK I found a '97 temp gauge and I'll gut it after lunch.

One question though...
What is the big deal about switch to a VDO gauge when the factory gauges are made by VDO anyway?
I agree #s are nice, but...

The 97 D90 gauge is a VDO part # 02 320 903

[ECR]

Noah has had temp problems. In my opinion these were caused by the changes he made to the fueling and boost of the engine after I sold him the rig. I spent months tweaking everything within an inch of its life on that 90 to what I considered the "safe limit". I drove it everywhere with no temp problems of any kind and even having speeding tickets of 93 mph (yes, it was downhill a little) so I was not easy on the truck. Hot cold, loaded, unloaded, east, west, whatever/

When Noah got it he changed all the settings to max out everything and it would be very easy then for him to get high EGTs and then coolant temps too high under load.

No fight here... I had it my way... never an issue. He changed it all... he has temp issues.

Bigger better rads are great and its cool you do that work. I hear it is needed with the 2.8s.

I likely agree on the 97 gauge. I'd like to know more about what that extra diode is, especially if folks are seeing 220 as "normal". I've never run across that yet. 220 on my manual tests will put a 97 D90 well into the "yikes" zone on the gauge on the ones I've worked on.

As for the 2 gauges... that is good info. but what was the actual temp (with a manual set up (infra-red or other)) to be able to relate the true engine temps to the guage(s).
What was the "control" in your test?
Was 190 on the numbered VDO dead nuts 190 on the engine??

I'm not a fan of any gauge. I never trust them until I see how they compare to an actual reading from a manual source.
I know on my old Tdi that it could "creep" before I changed the exhaust, but that "creep" was from straight up at about 170 degrees to headed towards the red at 185 degrees, both totally acceptable to me. I knew what the factory gauge meant, so I didn't need the numbers to tell me.

New gauges are great. I have nothing against them (no fight here).
:) :)

[D90user]

Pendy-
What are your diesel radiators like? are you getting better results moving the oil cooler? where are you moving it to?

[ECR]

Pendy, I know this is getting off topic now but...

Are you saying in a bone stock 300 Tdi set up, without touching the boost or fueling and having a correct free flow exhaust you are seeing over heat problems in Tdis at highway speeds??

Would like to pick your brain on that.

[TDI Guy]

when I installed the Tdi, I ran the sender that came with the engine and stock gauge and it was reading hot. I used the infra red gun and it was about 182. I then switched to all VDO gauges and senders to match. The temp now stays in the 180's to 190's and I cruise at 75mph at times.. In the winter though it runs really cool 160's unless I get on the highway then it goes up but as soon as you slow down, back to 160..

[ECR]

Thats real close to what I've seen, and our rigs are everywhere from FL to CA, ME to MT and once we sorted the exhaust issue no temp complaints (had big issues prior to exhaust sorting though).
I'm hanging in there for Pendy's feedback to see what the deal is.

One more test I'm gonna do. I'm switching a 97 D90 to a 4.6 next week and I'm going to get the temp gauge readings once and for all. I'm gonna stick the 4.0 in the paint booth and run it up to about 120 degrees in there and then run the car in there and compare the stock gauge to the infra-red and to the ECU's temp sender. That should give the definative answer on what a stock 97 D90s gauge it doing and when.
Maybe I'll get lucky and blow the engine at the same time.

:) :) :)

[junkyddog11]

just to add to the torture of temp testing........I have 2 infared temp guages, both fairly new, both quality brands. They both read the same up to about 120 deg at about 180-190 they differ by 12 deg. WTFO. Guess I'm just pointing out the need to also keep a check on testing equip.
80% of the rigs at my shop right now have overheating problems. I love the smell of coolant in the morning (not)!

[pendy]

Yes a stock 300 tdi will run hot like a 2.8 TGV. In my experience. The more difficult situation is an automatic transission equipted vehicle with A/C, on the highway at speeds above 65mph. Large tires add to the load and increase the max readings. Added fueling will add to the max readings as well.

I do not think a paint booth is a real test. Load similar to highway driving and higher ambient tempuratures would be more correct.

JP

An external oil cooler could be mounted anywhere that air can flow over it. For instance where the cooler for an auto transmission goes or in front of the radiator or condensor. Recoring a radiator can be done by your local shops. I recore to r-fin dimpled tube. I have done some oversized radiators now as well. But they are more difficult to install and fabricate. Ask anyone who has or is wainting for me to get one done for them :grin

[dmarchand]

I have done some oversized radiators now as well. But they are more difficult to install and fabricate. Ask anyone who has or is wainting for me to get one done for them :grin

Dude, you build Rads? No way.....
















:grin

[artm]

I have not found the 110/300Tdi to be a hot runner. I recently recored the radiator. I did hope to replace it wiith a custom full width job but the need to find an intercooler that would fit (I have AC) in a short time did not allow for that. In two days of driving with outside temps in the high 80's, sustained 60mph with frequent bursts of 72mph, AC full on, max EGT at 1100, sustained runs of 4 hours - and coolant temps of 190. So far so good.

I have read that generally the Tdi is a cool runner. Considering that only one model radiator is offered, if it's good enough for the hottest parts of the world why shouldn't it work here?

So, with all this radiator talk, take a look here:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/Parts_S10-V8-Radiator.html

The single core, wide fin, aluminum Corvette radiator described here may be very suitable for our V8/Tdi applications. Yes, single core and only 1-3/8" thick. So, forget your "4-core monsters".

I would certainly take a shot and have one made for my next radiator need - which may be quite soon for the 90.

Follow-up Post:

More good cooling info from the same site:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/V8-chapters/V8-DatsunZ-Cooling-System.pdf

[junkyddog11]

I have a single core full width aluminum rad on the way for the shop trucks 300tdi....along with a full width intercooler and separate oil cooler. It's a $2500 (just for the parts never mind the fitting) experiment.


The Tdi is still sitting on the floor so it's not overheating yet!(it does run quite nicely though)


Pendy......quit F)(*&^&^%$ around on the internet and get back to work for Pete's (or Daves) sake. :grin :grin :tounge

[ECR]

Rover offers a 3 core that most Tdi installers use and a HD 5 core radiator.
We have always installed the 5 core, perhaps this is why I haven't seen the issue?
On your installs are you using the 3 core??

As for temp tests in the paint booth, all I want to test is what the '97 gauge says as related to engine coolant temp. No, it isn't real world test but it will tell me if 220 appears as "normal" on the gauge. I don't have a dyno so that the best I can do.

[pendy]

Yes 3 and 5 core. The LR 5 core is a good version. I try to use this version which works on most trucks. But some applications need more.

I see, the paint booth is just to verify high readings on the gauge, not a high tempurature running problem. Let us know.

JP

[newfD90]

To cure (with factory parts) an NAS 110 temp gauge issue use the PRC7918 "white" sender that most NAS 110 have in them and mate that to a AMR2631 gauge and remove the signal conditioner.


This seems to work OK. With the stock 110 setup, the temp gauge never went past the middle of the gauge. When I got the 110, I promptly removed the signal conditioner (but didn't change the gauge) and when it was working hard, it would now approach the red end of the gauge (which made me worry a great deal), although an infra-red thermo check on the housing showed a temp of 200-210. I changed out the gauge over the weekend (thanks Rod!) and now when the infra-red reads 190, the needle is just South of the middle. It hasn't been hot enough lately to stress test it. I'm assuming I have the right sender (the connection end is white plastic) as I can't see a P/N on it anywhere.

[ECR]

The set up you have now is identical to that found in a 1994 D90 (a system designed by Rover without the signal conditioner) so it should give you much better information.

[newfD90]

The set up you have now is identical to that found in a 1994 D90 (a system designed by Rover without the signal conditioner) so it should give you much better information.

Cool. Thanks for the good info!

[ECR]

I updated the page that started this thread to hopefully read better and give better info. for 110 owners about the signal conditioner. Let me know if it is any better:

http://www.eastcoastrover.com/110oillines.html


I'lll add pix next one I take out.

Thanks,
Mike, ECR

[TDI Guy]

Ok. 75 deg out side.... Steady at 70mph. THats where the temp is on my truck.. I think that is acurate and normal.... Using the VDO gauge and matching sender on the Tdi

[dmarchand]

What's the gauge on the left?

[TDI Guy]

volt gauge Dave

[D90user]

Randy-
gauges look great! I like how it is centered when warm, easy to tell if something is a miss... any advise on the sending unit? Looking at the universal VDO sender kit... does it just skrew right in?

[TDI Guy]

You just need the gauge and the sender #323-095 and you are good to go. It does creep up a little if you really beat on it or its really hot outside. Usually between the next two hash marks is the highest it ever went...

www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Vision

[artm]

So, where's your EGT gauge and what readings are you getting?

[TDI Guy]

Don't have one yet... Have to look for a place to put it.. Does anyone make a pod that goes on the A pillar for gauges?

[artm]

I would put it next to the speedo and move the fuel gauge out of there. Certainly EGT is more critical than fuel so you want it staring you in the face.

[dmarchand]

You ever primed a Tdi? It's no picnic.

I say pull the volts (although I like view into your system).

No need for a tach either. I've been thinking about getting rid of mine.

[Jon_Winningham]

Per Mike at ECR...
"To cure (with factory parts) an NAS 110 temp gauge issue use the PRC7918 "white" sender that most NAS 110 have in them and mate that to a AMR2631 gauge and remove the signal conditioner.
Did this a few years ago on some 110s and put them through the ringer including up to 120 degrees at idle in our paint bake booth and the gauge told the truth as per manual checks with an infra-red hand held."


I ordered the sender part #PRC7918, and it is not white. The end that sticks out, and you plug the wire into, is red. What would be "white" in the sender?

Follow-up Post:

red?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC7918.cfm

white?
http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC2506.cfm

[ECR]

I'll check my numbers, what you need to duplicate is a stock 1994 NAS D90 temp system.

[dkjbama]

What is the VDO part # for the temp sender to fit a '97 4.0? I've seen several different answers here and other places. Is it the same as the sender for the tdi? Part #323-095?

Thanks so much to anyone who can help.
DKJ

[pcscharfe]

For anyone looking for a recent update on this issue:

I've had my NAS 110 for about a week and have put this issue at the top of my fix-it-list.

I visited Mike's instructions here - http://www.eastcoastrover.com/signalconditioner.html to clarify the parts numbers. I noticed that ECR does not currently stock the parts for the fix. A quick phone call and ECR informed me that LR has created some confusion on the exact temp sender part number that mates with the AMR2631 '94 D90 temp guage and have been shipping the incorrect sender. ECR hopes to have the issue resolved soon.

Mike, when LR starts shipping you the correct parts again please let us know. Thanks!

[Ronanmd1]

Hey guys - I needed to replace the water temp gauge in my NAS 110 and checked out the link on the ECR site - http://www.eastcoastrover.com/signalconditioner.html. The conditioner in my truck has been removed. I installed the AMR2631 gauge, but I am a little confused about which sender to use. I ordered sender part number PRC7918, but noticed that this sender is red, not white. Also confused that some of the previous posts state to use the AMR2631 gauge and PRC7918 sender in order to reproduce the set up in the 1994 NAS 90 trucks, but your site states that the PRC7918 sender "is found in most NAS Defender 110 engines will cure the problem and show you accurate coolant temp. information. This change duplicates exactly the later Defender 90 temp. gauge, a system that was designed without any signal conditioning."

I'm a bit confused as to which temp sender to mate with the AMR2631 gauge to give an accurate reading.

Anyone have a 94 D90 parts manual and can tell me the LR part number for the sender unit in that truck?

Any suggestions guys?

Jason

[Jon_Winningham]

I'm a bit confused as to which temp sender to mate with the AMR2631 gauge to give an accurate reading. Jason

use PRC2506 (1994 NAS D90 temp sender) with the ARM2631 (1994 NAS D90 gauge)

Click Here--->http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC2506.cfm
(http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/PRC2506.cfm)

[Ronanmd1]

Thanks John - much appreciated...

Cheers,

Jason :)