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View Full Version : air intake hose?? / source for cheap switches


xcxre9
July 1st, 2005, 11:36 AM
I tried searching for this topic, but I don't even know what the thing is called. It's the 3-4" braided hose on the 3.9 engine that goes to the air intake (not raised, snorkel...the regular one).

the steel bracket has rusted, and the hose has come off the block. I'm ordering stainless ties, but what is this hose "called"? has anyone ordered a replacement that doesn't look like it's from the 1930s? As in, silicone, rubber, whatever?

ALSO. this place is in GB, and I haven't received mine, but this place has inexpensive LR switches (for aux lights, etc). They're like $6 plus shipping, which is considerably less than the $25-30 places on these shores want. Best part, they're blank, so you don't have a dome light indicator for your lockers or something;

4x4PartsMaster.com (http://4x4partsmaster.com/)


chris

d901560
July 1st, 2005, 02:05 PM
I don't remember what its called but it goes between the plenum and the mass airflow sensor. I ordered a replacement about a year ago from Rovers North and it was very expensive, like $300. Mine had cracked and was causing the check engine light to come on. If I had to do it again, I would take it to an auto parts store and see if they have any flexible hoses of the same diameter. As long as you can bend it around the brake servo you should be fine.

JackW
July 1st, 2005, 03:07 PM
Their is some very good silicon hose available as close as your local private aviation airport. I used some 3" diameter silicon hose on a Porsche 911 that I was restoring a few years ago - the factory hoses were $$$$$ so I went over to the parts counter at Epps Aviation and bought some hose there - it was orange and cost about $15 a foot at the timebut it was a whole bunch less expensive than the factory equivalent.

Davis
July 1st, 2005, 03:58 PM
Mine just has a big hose clamp at each end. All I would be concerned with is if there are any holes in the tube and make sure it is snug at both ends. Don't hesitate to trim a little off if necessary--it is not rocket science and it's length is definetly not critical. I would even consider painting the outside of it with some sort of high temperature epoxy or sealant if there any little holes. Don't waste money replacing it.

evilfij
July 1st, 2005, 06:22 PM
95 style is plastic.

Does not look old like the 94 style.

xcxre9
July 4th, 2005, 11:59 PM
dubious...thanks guys, I'll get some 3" hose online and post the results. cheers!

Mike Hippert
July 5th, 2005, 11:02 AM
Make sure it is held up! If it sags too low the exhaust will burn a hole in the hose!

xcxre9
July 5th, 2005, 07:05 PM
Anyone have a source for this hose? I've been looking, most silicone hose is fiberglass reinforced, and thus is pretty rigid....I figured I could use a totally flexible one...am I wron? ordering it in rigid form makes for a lot more angle measurements...

Davis
July 5th, 2005, 08:59 PM
I just got some for my snorke at a local hose shop--was $6.50/ft and is temp resis. to about 300 degrees (mine is blue). It is flexible. There was a link to a good hose shop online under one of the newer snorkel threads--

xcxre9
July 6th, 2005, 07:25 AM
I believe this is what Chris is referring to, if anyone cares about this besides me:

http://www.ducting.com/Material.html

Davis
July 6th, 2005, 08:47 AM
Yeah, that is it. Another helpful page on the same site is:
http://www.ducting.com/Garage_Exhaust.html

Mike Hippert
July 6th, 2005, 08:52 AM
Don't get this stuff

http://www.ducting.com/CW325.html

Looks just like the stuff I melted!

xcxre9
July 6th, 2005, 09:27 AM
That says to +325 F.... would the one that goes to +550 F be enough? that's the highest rating I've found so far.

Something tells me any one of these will be better (performance wise) than the stock braided hose... is this correct?

Mike Hippert
July 6th, 2005, 09:40 AM
The Exhaust gets real hot! maybe over 600*F at the cats. But the hose I bought slowly started sagging until it was only a few inches from hitting the headder then it melted. What you need to make sure is that it is stiff, so it stays out of harms way.

This stuff looks like it is real good but I bet it's $$$

http://www.ducting.com/Bendaway_Plus.html

Follow-up Post:

Just checked it's $15 a foot but you would never have to replace it!

xcxre9
July 6th, 2005, 12:38 PM
the minimum length seems to be 15'...anyone else want to split it?

JackW
July 6th, 2005, 01:40 PM
This is the stuff I used to connect the heat exchangers to the bodywork on my Porsche 911 years ago - http://www.ducting.com/GS.html -its a double thickness wire reinforced silicon hose - good for low positive and low negative pressures.