White 94 D90 for $15,000

[Tom B]

White 1994 D90 ST with 128k miles for $15,000
VIN: SALDV2280RA942163
Carfax clean
Located in Fort Collins, CO

Badger Coachworks sliver gray soft top with rain gutter
Surrey top
Bikini top
Full toneau cover
Quick nuts for the door tops
ARB front bumper with XD9000 winch
33X12.5X15 BFG MT on 15X8 steel wheel
OME springs with RockWare rear suspension
Front swaybar disconnects
Front skid plate with front and rear diff guards
Rock sliders
Double red top optima’s
Tuffy center console
Alpine in dash CD player
Infiniti speakers up front
40-watt amp mounted in Tuffy box
Borla exhaust (cats back)
Hand throttle
Momo steering wheel with adaptor
Some other small stuff here and there
I'm also throwing in a newer rear skid plate

The D90 runs very strong, however it needs the following:
MAF sensor? - CE light on, O2 sensors are new - I am going to look into this
AC needs to be recharged
Missing rear speakers
Front seat covers or new trim kit
Driveline clunk, looks to be rear suspension bushings
Tcase and rear pinion leaks
Has rust, looks to be all surface

I just drove it over 100 miles today (75 mph), it idles smoothly for extended periods (just rich), 2nd gear syncro is showing some wear, and it has power to accelerate up hills in 5th gear at 5000ft.

Note, I took the pictures with the hardtop and lights; I'm planning on keeping these items as well as the rear seat. However, I'm slightly negotiable with price with respect to accessories.

I currently have a local sale pending that depends on financing; I'm giving the potential buyer until Tuesday to complete the deal. If you have any more questions feel free to email me at tb5641@yahoo.com

Follow-up Post:

Added more pictures. I'll take pictures with better lighting later in the week when I have
some time.

[Tom B]

The buyer could not get the financing, so the truck is still forsale. However, after fixing a few things and spending more time with it as a daily driver, I have come to the conclusion that I have undervalued it. So, I'm going to rethink my pricing vs time costs. In the meantime, I will accept offers - however, no trades, I have 4 cars right now and would like to get down to 3. I might be willing to part with the hardtop (custom insulation work) for the right price since the color does not flow well with my yellow Defender's.

I have added a newer MAF - no more check engine light, and it passes CO emissions.
In addition from the PO it has,
* New master and clutch cylinders
* New O2 sensors
* Newer R380 tranny
* Complete top end engine rebuild 4 years or ~30k-40k miles ago
- Heads are out of a new Discovery
- Complete valve job

[RoverWrecks]

Is that a NHRMC decal I see on the cross member?

[Tom B]

Is that a NHRMC decal I see on the cross member?

Good eye, yes it is.

I'm going relist the Defender for $15k with the hardtop and older MAF (still passes CO emissions). I am keeping the rear bench seat, lights, hand throttle, and surrey top. The Badger top is forsale for an additional $1,400.

[Floridadan]

Tom - Sorry for the ignorance, what is the hand throttle?

[Glenn_Guinto]

Dan, the hand throttle (https://www.expeditionexchange.com/kit/indexmain.shtml#handthrottle) is a "gas pedal" that you can control via a stalk mounted on the steering column.

[Floridadan]

So why would you want that???

[sheki]

It's nice to have if you are doing a lot of winching or if you run a belt driven air compressor. It allows you to put less strain on the battery when winching, i.e. you are spinning the alternator faster than if the truck were just at idol, therefore not allowing the battery to drain. In the case of a belt driven air system, it allows you to put out more CFM of air because you can get the compressor to spin faster. I'm sure there are other reason, non I can think of right now.

[Tom B]

It's nice to have if you are doing a lot of winching or if you run a belt driven air compressor. It allows you to put less strain on the battery when winching, i.e. you are spinning the alternator faster than if the truck were just at idol, therefore not allowing the battery to drain. In the case of a belt driven air system, it allows you to put out more CFM of air because you can get the compressor to spin faster. I'm sure there are other reason, non I can think of right now.

Another use is for finer control while rock crawling. You can lock the throttle high, and then use both feet for braking and clutching. The factory Rover ones are really clean. They mount to the steering column and have an adjustment to either retract or stay locked.

[Floridadan]

So there might not be a real reason unless you are winching alot or really off roading (big rocks and stuff???)...

[Tom B]

So there might not be a real reason unless you are winching alot or really off roading (big rocks and stuff???)...

That's exactly right.

[rover4x4]

how about cruise control

[Seriesman]

Tom,

If I had $15,000 laying around and didn't already have three trucks I would buy your 94 in a heartbeat. Looks like it would be a great trail truck. I do have a few friends who might be interested though so I will refer them to your post. By the way, the rust looks pretty bad from the photos you have posted. But then again I live in Southern CA and therefore my version of "rust" is a bit skewed to the real world... So how bad is it really? In particular I am curious as to how the bulkhead and the bottom of the doors look.

Thanks,

Michael

[Tom B]

Tom,

If I had $15,000 laying around and didn't already have three trucks I would buy your 94 in a heartbeat. Looks like it would be a great trail truck. I do have a few friends who might be interested though so I will refer them to your post. By the way, the rust looks pretty bad from the photos you have posted. But then again I live in Southern CA and therefore my version of "rust" is a bit skewed to the real world... So how bad is it really? In particular I am curious as to how the bulkhead and the bottom of the doors look.

Thanks,

Michael

Thanks Michael. I think it would make a great trail/beach truck, or work well as a 2nd toy for someone who wants a cheap runnable Defender. Assuming one sells the hardtop, winch, ARB bumper, and gets a cheap used Best Top soft top, the price would come down to about $13,500. That's alot less than the $40k for a mint one. It does need work, but it's mostly labor and TLC.

I'm in CO, so rust is foreign to me as well. A LR mechanic hammered (or so I'm told) the frame and found it solid. The rear cross member, gas tank skid plate, and axle have the worst of it. I've had two guys look at it and say it's taken off the undercoating in those areas, but it is still surface. There's a very thin line of bulkhead rust on the engine bay side - like the width of a flat envelope. I've pryed behind some of dash and have seen two 1"x2" spots. The doors do not have any rust, they look like they were replaced recently.

I currently have a potential buyer, and then a couple of interested parties queued up behind, but I'll keep everyone updated.

[Tom B]

Sold awhile ago.