Safari Gard 3-Link Installation
SG Install Guide
Please read all instructions thoroughly before installing components within the SG 3-Link System!
This system is designed to allow for an adjustable caster, improving steering geometry and correction of pinion angle for stock and CV style drive shafts in conjunction with 1 to 4 inch suspension lift kits, while incorporating a rear tie-rod Rock Gard Kit for protection and providing a third more wheel movement in the front end for an equaling balance of travel between front and rear suspension.
NOTE: Discovery Series I & Range Rover steering stabilizers must be re-located for installation of 3-Link. Bracket for steering stabilizer must be cut off or replaced with SAFARI GARD style track-rod's for installation of 3-Link. The SG tie-rod conversion kit will allow for relocation of steering stabilizer on both vehicle types. This 3-Link System also requires removal of anti-sway bars, both front and rear.
PARTS LIST
-(1) 3-Link Rock Gard
-(2) Outer Plates
-(2) Control Arms
-(4) Bushings for CA Frame Ends, (4) Bushings for CA Axle Ends, & (2) Metal Sleeves 1" X 2 1/8" for CA Axle Ends
-(1) Center Link
-(1) CL Grease Zirk & (1) CL Seal
-(4)CL Bushings & (2) Metal sleeves 1" X 2 5/8" for both CL Frame End & CL 3-Link End
-(1) Cross Member Mount (Non-coated)
HARDWARE
-(2) 3/4" Lock Nuts
-(8) 9/16" SAE G-8 Flat Washers
-(2) 5/8" X 4" & (4) 5/8 X 4 ½" coarse thread G-8 Bolt
-(2) 7/16" X 1" coarse thread G-8 Bolts
-(6) 5/8" coarse thread Lock Nuts
-(2) 7/16" SAE G-8 Flat Washers
-(12) 5/8" SAE G-8 Flat Washers
-(2) 7/16" SAE G-8 Lock Washers
-(2) 9/16" X 41/2" coarse thread G-8 Bolts
-(2) Cotter Pins
-(2) 9/16" X 2 1/2" coarse thread G-8 Bolts
-(4) 1 1/2" X 1 3/4" Large Spacers (5/8" ID)
-(4) 9/16" coarse thread Lock Nuts
-(2) 1" X 3/4" Small Spacers (5/8" ID)
TOOLS LIST
-7/16 Wrench & Socket
-Mallet
-Gravity Angle Finder
-1 1/16" Wrench & Socket
-Grease & Grease Gun
-15/16" Wrench & Six Point socket
-One to Two floor jacks & Two Jack stands
-3/4" Wrench
-MIG Welder
-13/16" Wrench & Socket
-Grinder
-7/16"-14 Thread Tap
-Lock-Tight (Red-Permanent)
-3/8 Drill Bit & Drill
-Paint-pen or Marker
KEY
TR = Track Rod
RG = 3-Link Rock Gard
OP = Outer Plate
CA = Control Arm
CL = Center Link
CM = Cross Member Mount
Picture #1
Picture #2
DE-INSTALLATION
1. Secure vehicle with tire blocks placed behind and in front of rear tires
only
.
2. Jack vehicle up from front axle. Secure both sides of frame with jack stands, towards the front of vehicle, so the wheels are off the ground 1 to 2 inches. Also support diff housing with 2 jack stands placed as far apart as
possible on the axle housing.
3. Remove cotter pins and castle nuts from TR ends (located directly behind front axle) on both sides connected to the wheels. Before removing TR, count the number of threads on the Passenger Side and mark with paint-pen or marker prior to removing and write down. This will help when re-installing to assure for the correct thread depth and maintain proper wheel alignment.
4. If SG Rock Gard is already attached, remove the 2 bolts that are attached to the diff and the 2 bolts and nuts on either end of Rock Gard. If SG Rock Gard is not installed, remove the 2 bolts from diff housing and remove the Defender aluminum track rod guard or the Discovery and Range Rover "balancer", which is the large round metal piece, and disconnect the rear TR. If you presently have sway bar's remove both front and rear completely.
5. Using 7/16 wrench and socket, loosen nut on clamp & unscrew rod-end from TR. Be sure to read note at top of page #1 regarding relocation of steering stabilizer.
6. Move to Radius Arms and remove the 1 nut securing the arm to the frame on both sides using 1 1/16" wrench. Then remove the 4 nuts and bolts securing arms to axle on both sides using 15/16 wrench and six point socket.
INSTALLATION
1. Drill out the 2 Diff holes located on the diff housing using drill and 3/8 bit, going no deeper than 1 inch, then tap out holes to 7/16-14 threads.
2. Slide TR through RG. This is the largest piece included in the kit.3. Screw rod-end onto TR and thread back to proper depth.
4. Reposition RG, so TR can be re-installed. Screw castle nuts finger tight to hold in place. This step may be made easier by using two persons.
5. RG can now be aligned to mount to old radius arm location. Align forward holes of RG on both sides, with old radius arm forward holes. Place 5/8 SAE washers onto 5/8 X 4" bolts, insert bolt into hole to hold in place. Pull bolt out slightly, so the spacer can be installed between old radius arm bracket, once spacer is in place, push bolt back through hole and repeat procedure for other side. (See picture #2)
NOTE: Before moving forward with the installation, push RG up to diff housing and check clearance between diff and bracing plate on RG, where RG connects to diff. If clearance is an issue, grind area slightly to accommodate for clearance prior to securing RG into position. This should be a minimal clearance issue. Once finished, insert 7/16 X 1" bolts and 7/16 lock washers through RG mounting plate and up into diff and finger tighten.
(Step 5 continue.)
Now repeat the beginning of this step for the hole located just behind the axle on the RG. After both bolts are in place on each side with spacers, the OP (this is the separate plate that mirrors the outside of the RG brackets) can now be installed. Place OP up to RG and through bolts. Place 5/8 SAE washer on bolt end and use 5/8 lock nut and finger tighten. (See picture #2)
6. Tighten castle nuts to factory torque specification using 3/4" wrench.
7. Attach RG to sway bar mounts using 9/16 x 2 1/2" bolts and SAE washers, place small spacer between RG and sway bar mount, screw 9/16 lock nut with SAE washer in place and finger tighten. Do for both sides.
8. Moving to CA, unscrew nut from frame end and re-install with SG bushings using washers from old radius arms and insert threaded end of CA through stock radius arm frame mounting point and finger tighten.
NOTE: The small tubes on CA should be on top side for all vehicles with the exception of D-90's, which the tubes should be on the bottom side.
9. Position front of CA(end w/ Bushing) into position between both the OP and RG plates. Use 5/8 x 4" bolts and make finger tight. Do for both sides.
10. Now go back and snug all bolts securely, starting with CA axle end nut and working clockwise around to other end, then perform one more tightening round fro all bolts to assure for torque and security. Use lock tight on diff bolts and CA frame mount threads only and tighten securely. Insert new cotter pins into rod-ends and bend.
11. Now lets move to CL. Connect CL to RG with smaller end (1 1/4") using 9/16 x 4" bolt, with 13/16 wrench and socket, with a washer on each end of bolt. (See picture #1)
12. Clean Frame cross member off thoroughly. Oil, grease, paint, or rust. Be sure to tighten all frame cross-member bolts
throughly.
13. Connect the un-coated CM, gusset facing upwards, to the CL at opposite end and move fixture up to frame cross member.
14. The CL should be roughly 20" long, center to center. Fit CL up to cross member and tac weld CM into place.
15. Remove nut & bolt at CM, making sure bracket is square. Now weld up CM with MIG-welder. No "back-yard welding" should be done on this part. This is a crucial fixture and needs to be welded by a certified or experienced welder only. Let part cool slowly, paint semi-gloss black.
16. Slide CL into position and finger tighten into place.
17. Re-install tires, torque lug-nuts to factory specifications and remove jack stands.
MAKING FINAL ADJUSTMENTS
Now the option is available to adjust the caster and pinion angle, to high or to low of a caster angle can damage or break the Drive Shaft. Not enough caster will make the car wander. The lower the pinion angle is to the ground the more you gain positive caster, which will help in eliminating wandering, where caster should equal 3-4 degrees positive for optimal position and performance.
1. To assure for proper pinion angle, use an angle finder and place on bottom side of RG and note angle Place angle finder up to Drive Shaft and note angle. This adjustment is crucial if using "CV" style drive shafts, like that of the SG drive shaft. Angle for both should be equal at the pinion. If adjustment is needed, remove nut and bolt from RG end of CL and loosen or tighten CL accordingly until angle is the same for both the RG and the Drive Shaft. Retighten nut and bolt from CL to RG. With the CV style Drive Shaft the pinion angle needs to be within 1-2 degrees. If matching the angles is not perfect, it is better to have the pinion angle low 1-2 degrees, while also gaining positive caster. The lower the pinion angle the better the caster.
2. All the above apply to "CV" style drive shafts, but on stock or non "CV" style Drive Shafts, the pinion angle can be adjusted lower to gain positive caster. The drawback to the stock Drive Shaft, is the top U-joint can not handle extreme angles like that of the "CV" style and vibration can be expected.
3. Please remember the 3-Link system is designed for off-road use only and the on-road and off-road handling characteristics may change. Also, have the alignment and caster checked after installation at a professional shop, then continue to check every 6 months to assure for good handling. Following the first few trail rides with the 3-Link , check all torque levels of bolts to verify tightening levels. Please call for any questions on installation or product information.
Order Department: (800) 820-GARD General Information: (909) 698-6114
Contact Us By Email: sales@safarigard.com