Front Wheel Bearing Installation
First, jack the front of the truck, block at least two wheels, engage diff. lock and a gear of your liking.
Pull off your front wheel, then pull off the dust cap. Use circlip pliers to pull of the circlip, then remove the two spacers (shims). Keep track of these buggers. Unscrew bolts holding drive member to the hub. There is probably not a seal behind it, because many trucks came from the factory with a bead of liquid sealant instead (you will need part 571752 here later).
From here, you need a 52MM, or 2 1/16" socket for the nuts. Expect to pay $25-$30 for this bit. Bend back the foldable washer holding the tightening nut. Spin off the large tightening nut and discard the freshly bent folding washer. Use the socket to remove the second large nut holding the bearings in place.
Then you need to remove the brake calipers, held by two large bolts. They are 13mm STAR bolt heads. You also need to remove the brake line mount bolts (17mm I believe), which Rover conveniently made to hold the top swivel pin and bearings in place. Use your WD-40 liberally, as all 4 of these bolts will be very tight and difficult to remove. Oil will spill profusely out of the bottom of your swivels when you remove the top swivel pin bolts. After you pull the brake line mount, re-screw in the top swivel pin bolts while you continue your work.
Remove the caliper. Use a zip-tie to hold the caliper upright somewhere nearby on the body while you work. If you do not and it falls over, it WILL bend the last 6" of solid brake line and you will have to order another one (don't ask me how I know).
Pull the front disc off. Remove the inner seal with a seal puller from Sears ($7). Both the inner and outer bearing should more or less fall right out. Use a tap GENTLY and work both of the races out of where the bearings were just sitting. This is a pain in the ass. Use the tap and work the new races into place. Be very careful here. You want them completely seated and do not want to score them while working on it. Both can and will ruin your bearing job in very short order.
Set the new bearings into place. I would recommend a good heavy-duty waterproof marine grease. Something really tough. The difference between the best and worst of them is about $3, so don't skimp here. Put your new seal over the inside of the inner bearing (I found it can be pressed in nicely with a 2” pipe) and slide the whole kit back over the end of the CV.
Put in the first big washer then thread on the first big nut. Tighten this to about 50lbs (somewhat tight) and check to make sure the wiggle is gone. This essentially "presses" the bearings into place. Then back it off a little (to about 6lbs) - a little more than finger tight. Put the foldable washer over it and thread the tightening nut on. Bend the foldable washer both ways over the tightening nut.
Put on a new seal (571752) and the drive member.
I did not worry too much about hub end float. The manual makes a big deal out of it, but I figured that the spacers that were there in the first place had done a good enough job, so I just re-used them. Put the two shims on, then the circlip, then the cap. Reinstall the brake calipers and be sure to tighten top bearings very tight - or you will experience front end "float".
Then, be sure to top off the swivel housing fluid/grease. In my case, the CV seal between the hub and the main part of the axle was worn out, so some 90 weight from the axle had gotten into my swivels and mixed with the grease. The LR mechanic said that replacing that seal was a real pain in the butt. While I could do it, for as much under water driving as I do, I should be changing the swivel and axle fluid regularly anyways. There is no problem with having 90 wt in the swivel – as long as the swivels are not scored and the fluid level/quality is checked regularly. Drain whatever's in there, then re-insert drain plug (at bottom of swivel body). Unscrew the fill screw (top of swivel body), as well as the level screw (located just below where the brake line goes into the caliper). Fill until fluid/grease comes out of the level screw hole. Then, re-insert the level and fill screws. It is also a good idea to drain the brakes whilst you are there.
Job done. The following are the parts you need. Be sure to do BOTH SIDES, and both inner and outer bearings on each.
571752 - Hub gasket. Goes between the hub body and disc body
RTC 3429 - bearings. 4 of them (inner and outer each side)
FTC 5241 - big ass washer. 2 of them to cover the outer bearings only
FTC 3179 - folding lock washer. 2 of them
RTC3511 (not the stock FTC 4785) - inner seal. 2 of them. This is a "double lip" version of stock.
Many thanks to Larry Michelon, Craig Reece and David Gomes for all their assistance.
Good luck.